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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : The Mustang
By: Scott M. McNamara When: May 10, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: www.mountainproject.com/v/rip-steve-johnson/108131200
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : The Mustang
By: Scott M. McNamara When: Jan 6, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: High 63 in Tucson and sunny was not nearly cold enough.
The bees were very active as it warmed up. The wall gets amazingly warm---even with snow on the ground on the north aspect of the canyon.
Two (2) new hives along the wall: One (1) small hive near Trad Lads; One (1) big hive before you get to DMBee.
We got in (3) three routes and it got too much---so we left. No one got stung.
You can no longer avoid Beeware and get on the western routes to avoid b... more >>
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Bear Canyon : ... : Chihuahua Power (5.9)
By: Scott M. McNamara When: Jan 2, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: If the offending bolts get removed, will the climb become a Joe “Terror--vecchia" route?
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Bear Canyon : ... : Chihuahua Power (5.9)
By: Scott M. McNamara When: Dec 31, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Forgive me for being a total nerd, but the history of this route (as illustrated in the local guide books) is kind of interesting:
Steiger’s guide (1985)--- Route does not exist yet.
Route put up 1987.
Eric’s, A Supplement to .... (1989)—Chihuahua Power (5.9 + R) 3 bolts
Eric’s, Squeezing the Lemmon #1 (1991)—Chihuahua Power (5.9)
Eric’s, Squeezing the Lemmon #2 (2000)—Chihuahua Power 5.9 Originally done with three bolts. [B,C]
Eric’s, Squeezing the Le... more >>
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Bear Canyon : ... : Chihuahua Power (5.9)
By: Scott M. McNamara When: Dec 31, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I am absolutely opposed to adding fixed anchors to existing mental test pieces.
For me, minority users have as much right to pursue their style of climbing---as we do to pursue sport climbing. Thanks Joe for Red Diamond! Your skills are not forgotten.
Anchors added after the first ascent should usually be immediately removed.
I fear doing that on this climb could create the perfect storm---because of its great popularity and the length of time these added anchors have existed.
Imagine: i... more >>
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : The End of the Road
By: Scott M. McNamara When: Dec 30, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: These additional directions may be helpful (or take the fun out of finding the crag):
Take Tanque Verde Road east from Le Buzz.
Continue 3.7 miles past Catalina Highway to Soldier Trail.
Turn left on Soldier Trail. Drive about 1 mile north and turn right on Fort Lowell Road.
Fort Lowell Road will change to Camino Ancho as it enters the Palo Verde Ranch development.
Turn left on Camino Remuda.
After 1 mile the road will make a hard left at an artificially aged adobe entry arch ... more >>
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Summit Crags : ... : Luke Slingwalker (5.7)
By: Scott M. McNamara When: Oct 11, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The first ascentionist's (Gary Gray, RIP---8/19/91) mom just wrote a book about Gary's death.
Gary died in the North Cascades on the North West Couloir of Mt. Shuksan from a serac.
Roaring Mountain, Shirley Gray 2012.
I believe the route was put up in 1983.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Upper Highway : ... : Warm and Free (5.10- PG13)
By: Scott M. McNamara When: Jul 2, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks for replacing those bolts!
Scott Mc
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Lower Highway : ... : Photo
By: Scott M. McNamara When: May 29, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: That's great Jimbo!
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Ouray (Ice/Mixed)
By: Scott M. McNamara When: Mar 19, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Comfort Inn gets my vote.
www.ouraycomfortinn.com/
Many climbers stay there and meet up in the mornings in the breakfast room.
One of the owners is a climber. Frequently, she can help you find a partner---if you come up short.
Have Fun,
Scott Mc
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Tucson Area Bouldering : Gate's Pass
By: Scott M. McNamara When: May 13, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: math.fullerton.edu/tmcmillen/TucsonBouldering.pdf
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : The Mustang
By: Scott M. McNamara When: Jan 16, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: We got run off by bees yesterday (1/16/11): five (5) out of six (6) people were stung. The bees were aggressive: “Hold my comb honey, while I teach those guys a lesson.”
Here are some thoughts:
If you are allergic to bee stings, think hard about climbing here and be prepared.
Wear light colored clothing, no perfumes or aftershaves.
Keep dogs’ water away from base of the cliff or use it as an attractant placed in a suitable location---understanding your dog is at risk if it gets a drink.
Do n... more >>
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : East Stronghold : Rockfellow Group : ... : Unknown (5.12-)
By: Scott M. McNamara When: Nov 11, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hey Russ,
I notice I am losing hair on top pretty fast.
Do you think I am losing on the bottom, too?
Scott
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : East Stronghold : Rockfellow Group : ... : Unknown (5.12-)
By: Scott M. McNamara When: Nov 10, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: I am truly sorry and embarrassed we have come to this impasse.
1.) My idea of changing the route name was just a suggestion, an idea. It seemed to me a gentle way to end this awful dispute. I had hoped we could avoid the chopping/replacing cycle and its effect upon access. It did not seem to me that a route name could be so important.
2.) I am mindful that the domes are sacred to many of us. Manufacturing a route was probably not the best thing to do, especially there. On the other hand,... more >>
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : East Stronghold : Rockfellow Group : ... : Unknown (5.12-)
By: Scott M. McNamara When: Nov 9, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Eric thank you for your magnanimous response–not chopping. Geir thank you for not mentioning this bad behavior in your original route description. I admire both your restraint.
I agree manufacturing a route is unacceptable. I cannot imagine what Scott was thinking. I do not believe this route should be chopped. No mortal climber is likely to see this misdeed given the route’s difficulty and its location. If we chop it, then it will be forgotten and I worry about the access consequences of a... more >>
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : East Stronghold : Rockfellow Group : ... : Unknown (5.12-)
By: Scott M. McNamara When: Nov 8, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: My wife represented the first man exonerated by DNA in Arizona. He did ten and one half years in the wall for a crime he did not commit. She lost twice in the trial court, once in the state court of appeals, and once in the U.S. Supreme Court. The Tucson newspapers screamed for her head. Editorials claimed she should sit down and shut up.
It always makes me uneasy when we are so eager to lynch someone.
I never used to understand how Germany in the 1930's could have occurred.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Baboquivari Peak : East Face : Southeast Arete (5.6)
By: Scott M. McNamara When: Nov 2, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Don,
Would you be so kind as to tell us the story of your first ascent?
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Mid-Mountain : Munchkinland Area
By: Scott M. McNamara When: May 30, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: MISSION NOT ACCOMPLISHED (as of May 29, 2008)
More developments with the fee to walk through Rose Canyon Lake.
The concessionaire (RRM) is now taking the position that they can charge whatever fees they like.
The Forest Service is trying to figure out what to do about this new development.
With so many people climbing these days, access issues (like these) are going to become much more common. We have been fortunate to escape them for so long. In respect to this situation, I am hoping to a... more >>
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Mid-Mountain : Munchkinland Area
By: Scott M. McNamara When: May 16, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: THE FEE NO LONGER EXISTS
Last Saturday (May 10, 2008) I went to the kiosk at Rose Canyon Lake. I told them I wanted to park above the lake and use the Fisherman's Trail but wished to pay the one dollar ($1.00) fee to walk across their concession area. They told me the fee no longer exists.
Today, (Friday, May 16, 2008) a representative from the Coronado National Forest Service called me. She apologized for the fee incident with Brent Silvester---see his posts above. She said that the c... more >>
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