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Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Lower Tier : Hawaii Five-0 (5.11+)
By: Scott Hahn When: Jun 6, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hawaiian Two-Foot is the appropriate name. When Dave put out the new book, he went and did some serious research and found the real names of some routes. This is one of them.
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Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Lower Tier : The Silver Surfer (5.11c)
By: Scott Hahn When: Jun 6, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Tie a knot in the end of your rope or just use a 70m rope. This route has probably cleaned up a lot over the years. Surprisingly clean with no dust and very little if any chalk.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Coney Island : Die Reeperbahn (5.13b)
By: Scott Hahn When: May 8, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: "Very thin crux" is an understatement!
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Coney Island : New Fanatic (5.11c/d)
By: Scott Hahn When: May 8, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: There is mass quantities of lichen everywhere, and crumbling holds through the crux. I personally felt this climb's crux was incredibly forced. The climb would be much more independent if it just went up the right ramp a couple more feet. You could skip the crux and then have good 5.10.
FYI beware of the loose blocks on the start of the climb. Although not massive, they definitely could end your partner's climbing day.
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Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Skull Cave : Dont' Trust Whitey (5.13d)
By: Scott Hahn When: Jun 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The 1st no hands knee bar ripped off the wall on me. Makes it harder to get it back after the crux. There's still the upper kneebar but it's a lot harder to rest. The block that you rest on needs some new glue if there is any hope that it will stay on the wall for the long term.
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Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Deer Creek Crag : The Road Less Traveled (5.13a/b)
By: Scott Hahn When: Feb 3, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is hands down the best climb at the crag. Definitely worth climbing despite its lack of height.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Mountain : The Industrial Wall : Terminal (5.13a)
By: Scott Hahn When: Oct 18, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I changed the grade on this one from 12d to 13a after talking with a lot of climbers and this seems to be the more accurate consensus. I'll still be interested to see what other people think.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Mountain : The Industrial Wall : Railing (5.12b)
By: Scott Hahn When: Oct 18, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route is actually 11d with the 12b version as the alternate start, since the 11d is straight up and the 12b comes in hard from the left.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Nomad's Cave : Express Yourself (5.13c)
By: Scott Hahn When: Aug 15, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: My two cents - This route is no where near 13c unless even more stuff has been ripped off since its most recent break. It was basically ridiculously soft 13a before - probably more like 12c. Then it broke which probably brought it up to 13a. At most it might be 13a/b - but by no means solid b let alone c. I also don't think it is fair to compare it to Sonic Youth which is a completely different climb with its crux almost right at the anchors so there is a definite pump factor involved.
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Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Deer Creek Crag
By: Scott Hahn When: Jul 29, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Does the route with the fixed draws have a name? And has anyone climbed the route that goes up and right off of Highway Man?
Jables I would suggest epoxying the quick links shut if you don't want them stolen. It's one of the few things I've seen work. Just make sure if you use chains to paint them.
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Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Deer Creek Crag : Unknown aka The Pump and Th... (5.12b)
By: Scott Hahn When: Jul 15, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I would be very careful actually going to the anchors on this climb. There are some huge sections of rock/talus that are extremely hollow after you mantle. Not to mention the anchors are in a pretty serious fractured rock. Look closely and you'll see the fracture all the way around your anchors.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Frisky Cliff : The Borg (5.13c)
By: Scott Hahn When: Jun 29, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I replaced the hanger today. Hopefully this one lasts longer than the last.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Elevenmile Canyon : Spray Wall : The Dark Arts (5.13d)
By: Scott Hahn When: May 26, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Due to the fact that the rest of this route is manufactured, the route has been returned to its previous state, which makes it a lot more fun.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Elevenmile Canyon : Spray Wall : Name Unknown (5.12d)
By: Scott Hahn When: May 26, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route felt 13a for me, but I avoided the right wall.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Elevenmile Canyon : Spray Wall : The Becoming (V10)
By: Scott Hahn When: May 24, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Went back and started on the obvious start, which was the loaf. The problem is definitely complete. There is a problem that starts to the right of this and climbs out the roof feels at least 12 if not harder too bad it is a serious dirt burgler.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Elevenmile Canyon : Spray Wall : Pagan Wisdom (5.13a)
By: Scott Hahn When: May 20, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Pretty sustained fun climbing to a weird, hand jam/undercling crux, fun but the bolting leaves something to be desired on this one.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Primo Wall : Public Solitude (5.13)
By: Scott Hahn When: May 11, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Has anyone linked this into Squeeze Play? Looks fun and more sustained.
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Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Gym : The Example (5.13a)
By: Scott Hahn When: Oct 27, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Of all of the routes I have climbed at Shelf, I seriously hate this route. The rock is beautiful the movement good. But the holds cut and destroyed my tendons like no other. Everytime I got on it I swore I would never do that again. This route for me is The Example of what NOT to climb!
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Location: UT : Joe's Valley : Right Fork : No Substance : No Additives (V11)
By: Scott Hahn When: Feb 10, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I heard the crimp you dyno to broke does anyone know if this is true?
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The New River Wall : Dark Waters (V12-13)
By: Scott Hahn When: Feb 10, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hey Josh you comin down to D-town any time soon? The boulder definitely gets water under it. Late spring through sometime in the summer there is water underneath the boulder.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Eagle Rock : Eagle Warrior (5.13b)
By: Scott Hahn When: Sep 10, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Can someone please help me with beta for the top crux. Do you dyno? use the left arete? Is there some key hidden foot I'm missing? I can climb it to Left hand on the glued chip. Right hand on the high notch. I just can't make it that last foot to the jugs. Any info would be a huge help. Thanks
Scott
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Primo Wall : Grim Aura (5.13+)
By: Scott Hahn When: Jun 25, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks. It is definitely the random looking bolt before you really get hammering on Primeval.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Nomad's Cave : The Roid (5.13a)
By: Scott Hahn When: Jun 7, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Can anyone confirm the grade on this beast. It felt really hard the entire way. I could easily be using horrible beta. Just wondering what other people thought or know.
Also does this thing actually have anchors I haven't tried manteling the corner onto the slab on the rusty bolt but I couldn't see anything from where I was at.
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Location: MN : Barn Bluff (Red Wing) : Winter Wall : NSP (5.13c)
By: Scott Hahn When: Jun 7, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: I know of at least 4 ascents since the hold broke. For me it was solid 13d. Others it may have felt easier or harder. I've heard 13c and 13d. Either way it was one of my favorite routes I ever did at Red Wing.
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Location: WI : Necedah (Petenwell Bluff) : Y-Crack Wall : Whiskey a Go-Go (5.13a)
By: Scott Hahn When: May 23, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hands down one of the best routes I have ever done.
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