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Member Since: Mar 10, 2001
Last Visit: May 24, 2011
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Point Rank: # 1,224
Total Points: 474
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17 Compliments
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Areas are worth 15
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All (200) | Routes (12) | Areas | Photos (55) | Comments (79) | Posts (7) | Stars (32) | Ratings (15)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: Delicate Arch Climbed!
By: Scott Conner When: May 14, 2006

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Comments: Malcolm Daly Wrote: "What an inspiration!"

You serious? Maybe Potter should be the next Trango spokesperson? Heck, maybe he is, FIIK...


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : Werk Supp (5.9)
By: Scott Conner When: Jan 1, 2005

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Comments: Larry,

I've done this a few times and it links up fine. There is one tricky and awkward 5.8ish spot with poor pro (an old pin, I think) and quite a bit of loose rock but it goes...

The second pitch of WS gears up very well and is short. Go for it... when you're ready...


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Whale's Tail : Jack The Ripper (5.9+ X)
By: Scott Conner When: Nov 7, 2004

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Comments: If gear does not hold...???

Broken wrist.


Location: CO : San Luis Valley : Penitente Canyon : Penitente - Inner Canyon : Huecos Rancheros (5.10c)
By: Scott Conner When: Sep 23, 2004

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Comments: I think Christa is actually climbing Pumping Hueco's in the photo below...


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Epinephrine (5.9)
By: Scott Conner When: Sep 9, 2004

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Comments: Just got back from a hot RR trip. We did Epi on Sept. 3, my wife's birthday. I guess someone has to play devil's advocate and give this 2 stars, but it ain't gonna be me. 10 stars! A very fun adventure and an all day excercise in efficiency. This time of year (late summer) is perfect for this route. The crowds are thinner and the days are longer. Get a later start and plan to be on the black tower by noon. The upper wall goes into the shade around noon leaving almost 8 hours to finish th... more >>


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Bookmark : Fantasy Ridge (5.9 R)
By: Scott Conner When: Jul 15, 2004

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Comments: Great route. I would have to agree somewhat with Theo about P3 being at least a little runout near the top. Not that I'd want to see any fixed gear here but, c'mon, it's at least PG and maybe R-. I led this pitch and by the time I could get a yellow Alien in the horizontal crack near the belay ledge my last piece was the smallest Alien and it was about 6' below my feet and the moves were thin, especially coming at the end of such a long pitch with a few 5.9 cruxes.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Bookend : Climb of the Ancient Marine... (5.10a)
By: Scott Conner When: Jul 6, 2004

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Comments: Sweet. I felt the crux of this route was above the 2nd bolt on the 2nd pitch. The moves seemed thinner here than anything on the first pitch.

The whole slab is about 200' long and counting the belay anchor, there are 9 bolts on it. Do the math... definitely not a sport climb. Exciting!


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Bookmark : Joy and Tribulation (5.9 R)
By: Scott Conner When: Jun 14, 2004

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Comments: Much has already been said about P2 on the Fantasy Ridge page; I'll only add that the cam placements in the crack above the bolt seemed solid. You can get blue, green AND yellow Aliens in the same crack. Yes, I plugged in all three.

P3 is a fantastic crack pitch. Steep and sustained with great pro. This pitch is pushing 5.9, IMO.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Little Eiger : Footloose (5.10a)
By: Scott Conner When: May 3, 2004

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Comments: Maybe it's just too early in the season but this felt like a sandbag... Cool route.


Location: NV : Red Rock : White Rock Spring : Angel Food Wall : Tunnel Vision (5.7)
By: Scott Conner When: Apr 14, 2004

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Comments: There is gear in the tunnel. You can't sew it up but I got two or three pieces in the back wall. Just look around...


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Rose Tower : Olive Oil (5.7)
By: Scott Conner When: Apr 5, 2004

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Comments: BTW- I don't remember any bolts on this climb but it's been about 4 years... Have the belays been bolted recently?


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Rose Tower : Olive Oil (5.7)
By: Scott Conner When: Apr 5, 2004

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Comments: To find the start of this route, scramble and thrash up the gully to the left of the Rose Tower and beyond Geronimo. It's best to stash your packs just before you start to enter the gully or else you'll have to make the worst part of the approach twice. Look for the corner that George mentions and a rib of rock to the left of it that leads to a small alcove/ledge with a small tree.

This is how we did it with a 60m:

P1: Climb this rib/face up to the tree. 5.6R

P2: Climb straight up the bea... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Cloud Tower : Crimson Chrysalis (5.8+)
By: Scott Conner When: Mar 18, 2004

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Comments: Wow, John P. What a buzz kill. This route is a one star and Cat in the Hat is a must do? Huh. I like your Vegas page, though...

The other option for getting a jump on other parties, since you can't drive the loop road backwards anymore, is to hike in from the end of the loop road. There's a large parking area there and if you're willing to hike an extra mile or so (each way) you can start as early as you want and finish as late as you want.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Brass Wall : Topless Twins (5.9)
By: Scott Conner When: Mar 10, 2004

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Comments: I think this is one of the single best pitches in the area. A little bit of everything...


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Straight Shooter Wall
By: Scott Conner When: Mar 10, 2004

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Comments: This wall, as well as the Brass Wall, is easy to get to. Take the main Pine Creek/Mescalito trail until you are even with the start of the small red band. Look for a large white boulder and then a small clearing off to the right. A very good trail heads up the slope from here and pass right below Straight Shooter and Brass wall.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Mescalito : Y2K (5.10a)
By: Scott Conner When: Mar 10, 2004

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Comments: We climbed this again this past Monday. A few comments on P2: I took note of the rope I had left after pulling up the excess on P2 and it was only about 20'! We had a 60m so this pitch must be closer to 180'. Also, P2 has 3 or 4 bolts and they're hard to see. If you have trouble figuring out which way to go, as the pitch wanders a bit, look for these. This is a long, steep and beautiful pitch as good as anything on CC.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Solar Slab - Lower Tier : Johnny Vegas (5.7)
By: Scott Conner When: Mar 1, 2004

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Comments: We combined the pitches 3 and 4 too, George, but we had a 60m. Going straight up the corner for P3 and moving out right at the bolt is 5.9 friction.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Jackrabbit Buttress : Geronimo (5.6)
By: Scott Conner When: Feb 25, 2004

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Comments: This is a fun route. It can be done on a fast Olive Oil day if you're looking for more 5.6/5.7 climbing...

Try to leave yourself plenty of time to deal with "snags" on the descent. It's probably the crux of the whole climb.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - SW Face : Tagger (5.10b/c)
By: Scott Conner When: Feb 21, 2004

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Comments: William - I've seen plenty of women lead this pitch; none of which had big nuts. Maybe large ovaries are a worthy substitute?


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Riding Hood Wall : Physical Graffiti (5.6)
By: Scott Conner When: Feb 19, 2004

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Comments: I think the first pitch is a great beginner lead but the second pitch is hard for the grade, insecure and weird...


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : The Goose : Love's Labor Lost (5.10a/b)
By: Scott Conner When: Nov 30, 2003

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Comments: Cool Route! Fun overhanging start. Definite crux at the second bolt but the whole climb is consistent at .8 or .9. I only took a #1 and #2 Camalot on this climb (in addition to the draws). I plugged the #1 in the first horizontal crack (between bolts 3 and 4, I think) but the #2 was too small for the next placement (a #3.5 Camalot maybe??) so it was pretty run-out to the next bolt. As Tony says, no gear would be X rated with a possible decker.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : The Goose : Deserted Cities of the Hear... (5.9)
By: Scott Conner When: Nov 30, 2003

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Comments: Pretty good route. Easily broken up into two pitches but we did it in one. Expect to feel run-out if you only brought draws (or do the route a la-Rossiter). Not sure if you could find many gear placements anyway. It's mostly slabular. Bring a double length runner to sling the tree before the crux as the clip comes after the hard move.

I belayed from the two bolt anchor down and right of the top. A medium cam or stopper could be used en-route to the anchor. Double rope rap from t... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - W Face : Blind Faith (5.10a)
By: Scott Conner When: Nov 10, 2003

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Comments: In keeping with the flow, I'm putting this here, though the last several posts should be moved to the Eldo Fixed Hardware thread.

I don't want to see a bolted anchor go in on top of P1 of Blind Faith. This would be strictly for convenience. The "anchor" that is there now is an ad hoc job and should probably be removed all together. It wasn't built for the masses. There are enough gear placements on that ledge to build your own anchor and leave your own gear if you need to retreat. Do those... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Lost Angel : Autumn (5.11a)
By: Scott Conner When: Oct 5, 2003

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Comments: Fantastic route. The opening moves are a harsh warm up with good, but reachy holds. Really interesting and varied climbing. The final headwall on the last pitch is exciting and hard. I thought the crux was the top-out.

Anyone know what the new-ish route is to the right of Autumn? It's the bolted line between Divination and Autumn. The first two pitches seemed mid-tenish but the third was desperate. Very good route, though...


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part C - Pony ... : Sooberb (5.10c)
By: Scott Conner When: Sep 29, 2003

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Comments: Linked this with Ignominity yesterday. The roof is very burly. Much more powerful than the Tagger roof but not as technical. I found the hand jam that Tony is talking about. Just one spot at the lip allows for a good jam before lurching up into the slot. The pro is decent (not great) but it's draining to place. Didn't do the regular first two pitches, but this was a great link-up.

The climbing above the crux roof is very good as well.


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