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photo by Forest Woodward


Member Since: Jan 9, 2008
Last Visit: 5 days ago
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Point Rank: # 537
Total Points: 1,146
Last Year: 26
Last 30 Days: 0
167 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Scott Bennett been climbing?










Contributions


All 791 | Routes 18 | Areas 2 | Photos 154 | Page Improvements | Comments 166 | Posts 209 | Stars 129 | Ratings 113
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : The Witch : Pegleg (5.11d PG13)
By: Scott Bennett When: Jul 9, 2009

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Comments: Killer route, 4 stars for the continuously awesome movement, minus 1 star for the sometimes gritty rock. Not as hard as Ankles Away, or the 11d pitch on Romantic Warrior, so maybe 11c. The pro is good enough, although placing it can seem kinda desperate.
Good luck,
Scott


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : The Witch : Ankles Away (5.11 PG13)
By: Scott Bennett When: Jul 9, 2009

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Comments: Stellar pitch, full on trad! Both my partner and I though it was harder than Pegleg, which is given 11d and might be a touch soft. So I think at least 11+ for Ankles, and my guidebook said 12b, which didn't feel that far off. Maybe I just suck at slabs, though.

My ideal rack would be 3x Purple C3 (black alien or grey TCU), then doubles up to purple camalot, single green and red camalot, plus a healthy set of RPs, brassies, etc. Offsets (Aliens and HBs) are also useful.

-Scott


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : The Warlock : Romantic Warrior (5.12b)
By: Scott Bennett When: Jun 10, 2009

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Comments: One of the most sustained and beautiful lines I've ever had the pleasure of falling off. I wrote up a few paragraph report, but all I'll add here is that the rack given here (doubles to purple camalot, single green and red, stoppers and RPs) is perfect, regardless of what every other topo says. The only place you could place bigger gear is on the Living Corner, but there's plenty of smaller gear there and anyone with any business on t... more >>


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : The Sorcerer : Scirocco (5.12-)
By: Scott Bennett When: Jun 10, 2009

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Comments: Mega-Rowdy, a must do! The first bit is the technical crux with hard pulling on good face holds, but the second half is what makes the route a classic. The angle eases back, the holds dissapear, and the bolts space out. Just commit to the arete, trust the friction, and send! or do what I did, sketch out near the top, and barn-door off for a 30+ footer... Either way it's a blast!


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Below Lower Ram... : Real Men Eat Eggs (5.11+ R)
By: Scott Bennett When: May 20, 2009

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Comments: Nice work buddy, who says Eldo is climbed out!

BTW- the route would not really be "R" if you clip the bolt on CC (maybe only pg-13), but Matt decided that it would be a better route if it was put up with all natural gear. Also, double ropes really help, since the pro in the BoC corner and the pro after the traverse to CC are at the same height.

-Scott


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : Hairstyles and Attitudes (5.12b/c)
By: Scott Bennett When: May 18, 2009

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Comments: Also, maybe replacing the bolts is not all that necessary... I went out today with my friend Matt and sent this route sans bolts, all gear. It's not really super runout, I did TR a few times first, but it could probably be done ground-up by a 5.12 climber. It actually felt easier this way, since you don't have to clip any bolts during the crux.

-Scott


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : Hairstyles and Attitudes (5.12b/c)
By: Scott Bennett When: May 14, 2009

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Comments: Glad someone is replacing the bolts on this thing, those old ones are annoyingly hard to clip!

One question/concern though: I noticed there's a quicklink and rap ring on the new anchor bolt. Do you think the top anchor needs to be equipped for rapping? I can't really see any reason why you'd need to rap here, and if you're rapping in to approach the pitch, you can just hang a couple draws and retrieve them when you top out.
I guess my concern is that someone with limited knowledge of the rout... more >>


Location: SD : Custer State Park
By: Scott Bennett When: Apr 28, 2009

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Comments: Hey guys-
I'm looking for a little beta on camping, hopefully of the free variety. What's the scene? Is there any free/very cheap camping within reasonable distance of the state park?
I'm looking at coming here on an extended roadtrip, probably sometime in August. Would it be too hot then? How long could I stay here and be entertained (mostly looking at leading 11-12ish, preferably trad)?
Thanks in advance for the great beta,
-Scott


Location: ID : City of Rocks
By: Scott Bennett When: Apr 26, 2009

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Comments: I have never been there, but I'm thinking of stopping there on an extended roadtrip, possible sometime in August. Would it be too hot then? How long could I reasonable plan to stay? Is there enough climbing to entertain me for a few weeks (looking at mostly 5.11-5.12, preferably trad, but whatever).
Anyways, thanks in advance for all the great beta!
-Scott


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part C - Pony ... : Unbroken Chain (5.11c R)
By: Scott Bennett When: Apr 14, 2009

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Comments: Thanks guys, I guess I was wrong about the pitch as well....
I fell with my left hand in the next undercling, about to place the next piece (a green Alien, which I think is pretty good).
Yeah, I'd be interested to hear if it feels harder now. I guess it's not really more dangerous, since the cam behind the flake was bound to blow sooner or later, but you'll have to get more creative with the other gear now. Perhaps double ropes, one clipped through the good TCU in the Sidewall corner, would mak... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - L of Center Route : Windy (5.11a/b R)
By: Scott Bennett When: Apr 10, 2009

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Comments: So, I guess I have to disagree with some of the comments here.... We did not think this thing deserves "neglected classic" status. My partner and I have been doing a lot of the more obscure lines in Eldo lately, and we've nearly always been pleasantly surprised, but not with this one.

It's a one move wonder crux that's literally the first move of the climb (assuming you walk in from the side and skip the unprotected slab start). The chimney was unique for Eldo, but the amount of dirt, lichen, ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : Green Willow Wall (5.11+ R)
By: Scott Bennett When: Apr 8, 2009

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Comments: Wow, this pitch is killer! It has everything that makes climbing in Eldo fantastic: great position, (mostly) good rock, tricky and devious movement, and some exciting runouts. You can tell from the lichen that it doesn't get done too often, but that's part of what makes it exciting.

It's an adventerous pitch, so I won't offer too much beta, but I will say I thought that the only really dangerous part of the route was getting to the first bolt. It's mostly easy, up to about 2' below the bolt, b... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - S Face : Disguise (5.10b)
By: Scott Bennett When: Apr 7, 2009

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Comments: Really fun route; a unique wandering, runout pitch on vertical rock. It's not totally clear from the ground where the route is supposed to go, but once you're climbing it you'll probably be able to find your way.

I thought the broken-band section in the middle was probably the spookiest, and after that you can clip an "ok" fixed pin (backs up with a small nut) and pull the hardest moves. I didn't think any of the moves felt as hard as 10b, but it is fairly steep and sustained.

A go... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Cat Wall : Pussy Whipped (5.11+)
By: Scott Bennett When: Apr 4, 2009

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Comments: Thanks to whoever put in the new metolius rap bolts on this thing, good looking hardwear. Make sure, though, that you use a couple long slings while TRing, in order to reduce the inward pull that might turn these bolts into spinners. A couple chains might help as well.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Rover (5.11b R)
By: Scott Bennett When: Mar 21, 2009

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Comments: Some comments on the “3rd” pitch (the 11b roof pitch):
I didn’t think the 5.10 face below the roof was that runout. There’s good gear for the first 2/3rds of it, and then a bit of a runout up to the roof, where great gear can be had. Maybe some persistent and creative nutting could eliminate even this runout.

That said, I did think the crux roof itself was pretty spicy. You need to put long slings on the gear below the roof, so when you’re pulling the crux (which was kinda hard to figure out) y... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part E - top t... : Between the Cracks (5.10+ PG13)
By: Scott Bennett When: Mar 18, 2009

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Comments: Fun route, good find guys. The climbing up near the top, just below the KM dihedral, was surpringly good.

If you didn't happen to bring the #6 battle-axe up (I can't imagine why not...) you can get a sheisty-looking small cam (kinda flared) and a decent RP in the little slot below the roof. Still pretty heads up, seems like a fall here would suck either way, even if you had the big cam.

-Scott


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part E - top t... : Red House (5.11b R)
By: Scott Bennett When: Mar 18, 2009

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Comments: Really good route, another fine short pitch in a great cragging area. We felt like we were on an FA on this one, due to the plentiful lichen and loose crumblies. It's a lot cleaner now, though, and deserves to see a lot more traffic.

We did not think that it deserves an "R" rating, though, the pro is actually quite solid. The only potentially sketchy spot would be at the start, pulling into the corner from the ledge. Both my partner and I are fairly tall, and we were able to stretch up and plac... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part C - Pony ... : Quiet Desperation (5.11c R)
By: Scott Bennett When: Mar 9, 2009

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Comments: A very good route, another fun pitch in the Sidewall "hangout". Despite its dirty and lichen-ous appearance, it actually climbs pretty cleanly and the rock is very good.

This route is actually quite safe, given some patience and creativity. There are a few good pieces in the crack/slot at the lip of the roof, but getting them in can be pretty strenuous. Our strategy was to lead on double ropes (we folded over our single rope) and place a good cam in the base of the "Human Factor" dihedral. Th... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part C - Pony ... : Court Jester (5.11a PG13)
By: Scott Bennett When: Mar 6, 2009

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Comments: Fun route, good warmup for some of the harder routes to the left. I was able to crank hard off the jug to place a good cam, but perhaps someone shorter would have to do an extra move to reach this (I'm 6'). If you could not get this piece, then the crux would be unprotected and quite dangerous.
-Scott


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part C - Pony ... : False Prophet (5.11d)
By: Scott Bennett When: Mar 6, 2009

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Comments: Stellar route! Definitely link with Unbroken Chain to make one long, hard pitch.
I though the move to gain the crack in the roof was pretty hard (11ish) and definitely scary. A fall here would land you on the slab below and could hurt quite a bit. I did the Eldo upclimb-downclimb dance maybe 8-10 times before commiting to the move.
Luckily the pro from then on is great, since it stays hard for a while.
If you're climbing solid 11, the Sidewall area is one of the coolest hangouts in the canyon!... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part C - Pony ... : Unbroken Chain (5.11c R)
By: Scott Bennett When: Mar 6, 2009

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Comments: This route is definitely not X-rated, although a fall low on the route could be dangerous if a piece pulled. I got a cam behind a thin flake/undercling to protect the first moves getting out of the Sidewall corner. Above that, the flake becomes thicker and the gear seemed much more bomber. Link this with False Prophet for a killer 120' pitch.
-Scott


Location: CO : Golden : The Quarry Wall : Silver Bullet (5.11+)
By: Scott Bennett When: Mar 5, 2009

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Comments: Thanks Ken for cleaning out the start, I thought it was pretty tricky and was very glad to have a piece in right off the ground. Big thanks to the folks that have been developing this crag, it's a really cool place.

The crux was more sustained than I expected. I thought it was over when I grabbed the jug at the top of the overhanging section, but the next move might have been the hardest (or maybe I was just pumped).

Also, make sure to save a small cam for pulling over the last roof, it's to... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : The Quarry Wall : Bone Collector aka Bone Cru... (5.12b/c)
By: Scott Bennett When: Mar 5, 2009

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Comments: Finally made it out to this wall today, Wow! Huge thanks to everyone that's been involved in developing, cleaning, trail buiding, etc at this wall, it's so cool to find some great splitter action so close to home.
Like any pure crack climb, size matters! My partner had to do at least 2 finger stacks to make it through the crux, but I was able to get one finger lock where he couldn't. So I guess with bigger fingers, it felt like an Indian Creek 12-.
My advice for those looking to send: smash yo... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Mellow Yellow (5.11d PG13)
By: Scott Bennett When: Mar 4, 2009

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Comments: Some of these comments are already covered under the link-up "Mellow Fellow", but I thought I'd add them here for completeness.

This is a great climb, and the hard climbing is well protected. The 11d crux on p1 sports a fixed pin that gives a top rope for the hardest moves, and this can be backed with good gear a few feet lower. Just above the lip of the roof, there is a perfect slot for a #2 Camalot.

There is a fixed sling/piton/nut anchor at the top of p1, so one could rap from here, b... more >>


Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Rock : Straw Turkey (5.10a)
By: Scott Bennett When: Mar 4, 2009

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Comments: You can rap/lower off the fixed anchor atop p1 (some nuts and webbing) with a 70m rope. Great route, a must do at the grade.


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