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photo by Forest Woodward


Member Since: Jan 9, 2008
Last Visit: 5 days ago
Contact Scott Bennett


Point Rank: # 499
Total Points: 1,138
Last Year: 59
Last 30 Days: 0
148 Compliments
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Areas are worth 15
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Contributions


All (781) | Routes (18) | Areas (2) | Photos (153) | Comments (163) | Posts (205) | Stars (128) | Ratings (112)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : Blob Rock : ... : Conan (5.11c/d)
By: Scott Bennett When: Nov 11, 2009

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Comments: I thought the gear was a bit jingus at the start, which also felt like the technical crux. Maybe anchor in your belayer....


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Roof Routes : ... : Photo
By: Scott Bennett When: Nov 11, 2009

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Comments: It was a definite big wall scene up there, with Joe jugging the fixed line and Rob and I at the hanging belay. Thanks for putting in the effort, the shots came out great. I'll wear a better shirt next time (on Huck Off!)


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Broken Tooth : Unbelievable (5.12)
By: Scott Bennett When: Nov 6, 2009

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Comments: Great climb: steep pumpy corner to a big move. Nothing smaller than a purple camalot is needed, the small cam that you might place at the crux is bad (I ripped a blue alien), pumpy to place, and just a foot or two above a bomber finger-sized cam.

Have fun,
-Scott


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Bridger Jacks : Powders of Persuasion (5.11)
By: Scott Bennett When: Nov 6, 2009

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Comments: A good adventure route if you're tired of all that perfect clean jamming at the crags.

The route was just going into the shade when we did it (early afternoon). If you want sun, get up early.

As of 11-09, there was a fixed anchor on the big ledge after P3 (the long corner pitch). There's a new bolt and a fixed stopper, but they're a long ways back (around to the right). I had a 70m rope and was able to reach the anchor, but it looked like a 60m might not have made it.

As for the raps, we mad... more >>


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : The Coliseum : Gladiator (5.11b)
By: Scott Bennett When: Oct 19, 2009

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Comments: Fun roof, sullied by some bird crap.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Cadillac Crag : Brand New Cadillac (5.11b/c R)
By: Scott Bennett When: Oct 19, 2009

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Comments: Great route! Similar in style, difficulty, quality, and excitement to Aerospace. I don't think it deserves an "R" rating, although a fall getting to the third bolt could suck (you wouldn't deck, but the slabby arete below could make things awkward). The gear between the 2nd and 3rd bolt is bomber, I used a purple Camalot.
I did the whole thing as one pitch, up to the bolts atop the fin, which was great.
Rack: Single set of cams to #1 Camalot, some med/lg stoppers, a few long slings.

-Sco... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : The Contest (5.11d)
By: Scott Bennett When: Oct 15, 2009

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Comments: Agree that the first bolt would be a tough clip for shorter folks, but you could also place gear in the flake to protect the start. Quite pumpy, but I didn't find it too sharp or painful.
-Scott


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Half Dome : Regular Northwest Face of H... (5.12a/b) : Photo
By: Scott Bennett When: Oct 10, 2009

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Comments: By "climbing" the Reg NW Face, you mean coming within two falls of the onsight. Good effort man!


Location: WY : Grand Teton National Park : Grand Teton : The Grand Traverse (5.8)
By: Scott Bennett When: Oct 8, 2009

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Comments: A write up from my near Traverse.


Location: WY : Grand Teton National Park : Grand Teton : The Grand Traverse (5.8)
By: Scott Bennett When: Oct 8, 2009

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Comments: Notables:
FA: Steck, Long, and Evans, ~21hrs, 1963.
Speed record: Rolando Garibotti, 6:49, 2001.
First winter traverse: Mark Newcomb and Stephen Koch, ~3 days, 2004


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Half Dome : Regular Northwest Face of H... (5.12a/b)
By: Scott Bennett When: Oct 8, 2009

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Comments: Some more free climbing beta:
This is a spectacular big wall free climb. There are 4 crux pitches, all checking in right around 11d/12a, and all with different styles. If you want to onsight, don't read any further.

-The first free variation starts at the 2-bolt belay right before the 5.11/A1->bolt ladder pitch on the regular route (P4). From the belay, traverse left, past an old bolt (11a), then up a dihedral. There's a wide spot here, a #4 camalot is very useful(11b). Bela... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part E - top t... : Ministry of Fear (5.11d X)
By: Scott Bennett When: Oct 7, 2009

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Comments: Hey, thanks guys, I guess that's a pretty solid consensus. I'm really glad (and surprised) the community responded so quickly, Eldo is really a special place. I was just wondering because I saw a potential spot for one, but I guess hammering gear is very different than placing gear.

Sounds like Alec Sharp was a first-rate badass! Just thinking about leading some of these routes makes me reach for my chalkbag. In the new guidebook, it says he led this route after "brief inspection on rappel" (!?... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part E - top t... : Ministry of Fear (5.11d X)
By: Scott Bennett When: Oct 6, 2009

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Comments: What would be the ethics of placing a pin on this route? It looked to my untrained eye that a marginal rurp or blade might go in near the base of the seam. I don't think Alec Sharp placed any pins, so would it be unethical to add one now? Or would it be considered removable protection?

I have never placed a pin before, and don't even know whether pins would go in here. Even if they do, they'd probably be very bad, so the route would probably still warrant an "X" rating, but in theory they'd be ... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Pat and Jack Pinnacle : The Tube (5.11a)
By: Scott Bennett When: Oct 1, 2009

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Comments: Good climb. If you have the technique dialed, it's pretty chill, but if not, you'll have to pull hard. I thought the pro was OK, but I know of at least one good climber that got hurt badly on this climb. Climb safe.
-Scott


Location: CA : High Sierra : Incredible Hulk : Sunspot Dihedral (5.11b) : Photo
By: Scott Bennett When: Sep 9, 2009

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Comments: Look's like that was exciting. Good lead!


Location: CA : High Sierra : Incredible Hulk : Tradewinds (5.11d) : Photo
By: Scott Bennett When: Sep 9, 2009

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Comments: Thanks. I think the LF corner to the right of the Venturi is the last pitch of the "Bard-Harrington Suicide route" or some such thing. I think the Suicide route basically follows Astro-Hulk and then penji's over left into said LF corner.

Astrohulk follow a very similar, but Right-Facing, corner just to the right of the corner in question. It's not really visible in the photo.


Location: CA : High Sierra : Incredible Hulk : Astrohulk (5.11)
By: Scott Bennett When: Aug 10, 2009

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Comments: Here's a link to Dave Nettle's topo


Location: CA : High Sierra : Incredible Hulk : The Venturi Effect (5.12)
By: Scott Bennett When: Aug 9, 2009

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Comments: Dave Nettle's great topo can be found in PDF here


Location: CA : High Sierra : Incredible Hulk : The Polish Route (5.10+)
By: Scott Bennett When: Aug 9, 2009

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Comments: I haven't done the whole route, but if you've got extra time or the weather looks too crappy for a whole climb, the first pitch of this thing is great and currently has a fixed nut anchor. 2 60m ropes are required to get down.


Location: CA : High Sierra : Incredible Hulk
By: Scott Bennett When: Jul 26, 2009

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Comments: The wilderness sign mentioned here and in the supertopo is no longer there. To find the right spot to turn off the main trail (Barney Lake Trail), look for Little Slide Canyon on the left, it's the first major side canyon you'll see. Just before you reach it, there'll be a large open meadow on your left, bordered on its west by a dense grove of aspen. Walk across the meadow, find the downed logs to cross Robinson Creek (it's easy to stay dry), and then work your way into the mouth of Little Slid... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Lower Cathedral Rock : Beggar's Buttress (5.11a/b)
By: Scott Bennett When: Jul 15, 2009

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Comments: Here's a bit more beta:

To find the route, park in one of the pullouts below and east of Lower Cathedral rock. Hike up from the road to the nice wide hiking trail. Follow it west past Lower Cathedral until you reach the toe of the buttress, and then scramble up the talus to reach it. Go up and left along the base of the cliff for maybe 100 yards to the start of the route. The beautiful left facing corner on the top of the first pitch is barely visible 100' off the ground. You can start on the l... more >>


Location: CA : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : The Sorcerer : The Don Juan Wall (5.11b)
By: Scott Bennett When: Jul 9, 2009

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Comments: Great route, the second pitch is probably the hardest, most sustained lead, and we thought the last pitch had the hardest single move.

We tried the 11c variation on the third pitch, the climbing was worthwhile but it felt pretty contrived. It also would be pretty runout if it weren't for the fixed heads. I would recommend the normal 10d 3rd pitch.

-Scott


Location: CA : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : The Witch : Pegleg (5.11d PG13)
By: Scott Bennett When: Jul 9, 2009

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Comments: Killer route, 4 stars for the continuously awesome movement, minus 1 star for the sometimes gritty rock. Not as hard as Ankles Away, or the 11d pitch on Romantic Warrior, so maybe 11c. The pro is good enough, although placing it can seem kinda desperate.
Good luck,
Scott


Location: CA : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : The Witch : Ankles Away (5.11 PG13)
By: Scott Bennett When: Jul 9, 2009

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Comments: Stellar pitch, full on trad! Both my partner and I though it was harder than Pegleg, which is given 11d and might be a touch soft. So I think at least 11+ for Ankles, and my guidebook said 12b, which didn't feel that far off. Maybe I just suck at slabs, though.

My ideal rack would be 3x Purple C3 (black alien or grey TCU), then doubles up to purple camalot, single green and red camalot, plus a healthy set of RPs, brassies, etc. Offsets (Aliens and HBs) are also useful.

-Scott


Location: CA : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : The Warlock : Romantic Warrior (5.12b)
By: Scott Bennett When: Jun 10, 2009

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Comments: One of the most sustained and beautiful lines I've ever had the pleasure of falling off. I wrote up a few paragraph report, but all I'll add here is that the rack given here (doubles to purple camalot, single green and red, stoppers and RPs) is perfect, regardless of what every other topo says. The only place you could place bigger gear is on the Living Corner, but there's plenty of smaller gear there and anyone with any business on t... more >>


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