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Member Since: Jan 9, 2008
Last Visit: 1 day ago
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Point Rank: # 536
Total Points: 1,146
Last Year: 26
Last 30 Days: 0
167 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Scott Bennett been climbing?










Contributions


All 791 | Routes 18 | Areas 2 | Photos 154 | Page Improvements | Comments 166 | Posts 209 | Stars 129 | Ratings 113
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Moab Area : Kane Springs Canyon : Ice Cream Parlor : T-Rex (5.11c PG13)
By: Scott Bennett When: Mar 19, 2010

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Comments: Sick route, I was very impressed. P4 is one of the most unique pitches I've done in the desert! My partner and I agreed that 11c feels like a pretty serious sandbag, but we kind of expected that, considering the FA. We thought P1 was more like 11d, and cryptic at that. P4 is very strenuous, and probably deserves 12b.

P3 was a tough lead as well, maybe mid-hard 5.11 with very thin pro. We had a set of ballnutz, and I placed 4 of them. We climbed the thin crack/corner that starts a few feet left ... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Bridger Jacks : Ziji (5.12)
By: Scott Bennett When: Mar 19, 2010

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Comments: Definitely the best tower route I've done, highly recommended. A few notes:

Gear (this is what I would bring next time): Med. Stoppers (BD #5-9), 1x Black Alien, 2x Blue and Green Aliens, 5x Yellow Alien, 9x Purple Camalot, 2x Green Camalot, 1x Red Camalot. We brought a #5 C4 for the first pitch, and used it twice (backcleaning the first placement), and then lowered it back to the ground from atop P1.

You could get by with fewer purple camalots, maybe 7, but having a ton was nice... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - S Buttress : Trinity Cracks (5.11d R)
By: Scott Bennett When: Mar 11, 2010

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Comments: I found that double ropes really helped to maximize the gear on this route. When I got everything in, I felt pretty safe on it; even if the RPs in the first seam blow, the gear in the Genesis isn't far below you.

It's a very worthy route, both as a toprope variation after doing Genesis or as a lead.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : Le Void (5.11d R)
By: Scott Bennett When: Mar 4, 2010

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Comments: It's possible to link the entire route into one pitch, and the drag's not bad. Of course, I wouldn't recommend the upper roof (p3), see my added comments above.

We left a fixed nut anchor above the p3 roof, and you can lower to the ground from there with a 60m rope.

-Scott


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Consummation Nite (5.11a)
By: Scott Bennett When: Mar 4, 2010

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Comments: Wow, I tried this thing today, I thought it was hard and a bit scary. Maybe my head wasn't in the right place, but the gear seemed pretty bad low in the crack. Near the middle of the crack a couple decent placements appear, but getting everything right on an onsight would be very tough.
Fun route though, and really easy to toprope from the chockstone chimney rap anchors.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - S Buttress : Book of Numbers (5.12c/d)
By: Scott Bennett When: Feb 25, 2010

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Comments: Tried the first pitch today, a few thoughts:

-The whole pitch felt very well protected. I used a #3 and #4 Camalot at the first roof, and then a few more small pieces to back up the pins on the rest of the pitch.
-There's plenty of hard climbing packed into this pitch, but the standout crux is near the top 2 bolts, starting with a big reach and step right (easier if you're taller), and then a mega-highstep (easier if you're shorter).
-This is a very high quality pitch, with though-... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part D - Xanad... : Iron Pony (5.11d)
By: Scott Bennett When: Feb 12, 2010

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Comments: I really enjoyed this climb, I stayed on the left side of the arete the whole time and it seemed like solid 11d. I guess at the crux you are grabbing the left side of the big jug on Pony Express, so it wouldn't be hard to escape into that route, but it flows pretty well to stay left.

I do agree that the third bolt is hard to clip, but only because of the insecure climbing through there, the bolts are well-placed.

Recommended link: the first (crux) half of Zip Code into Iron Pony for a good lon... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Diamond Head : Shibumi (5.12b) : Photo
By: Scott Bennett When: Jan 19, 2010

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Comments: Post this pic again without the yellow line, so we can see the crack.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Diamond Head : Shibumi (5.12b)
By: Scott Bennett When: Jan 19, 2010

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Comments: Placing gear on the 2nd pitch adds loads to the difficulty. Bring your trad honemaster skills and bunch of thin gear.
-Scott


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - S Buttress : Back in Black (5.11c/d)
By: Scott Bennett When: Jan 19, 2010

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Comments: Very nice, Eldo-cryptic climbing. Potentially a classic when linked into "Blacktop" for a 180' full-value pitch. Not dangerous, but it does seem like this would be a bad spot to be taking whippers (lots of little ledges or slabs to hit).
-Scott


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Hawk-Eagle Ridge : Heart of Gold (5.12-)
By: Scott Bennett When: Jan 19, 2010

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Comments: Really fine route, I'm glad I finally made the hike to check it out (not that bad a hike, btw). Though it looks slabby, I thought it climbed rather steeply. Also, it's fairly unique for Eldo in that it makes a lot of use of the arete.
We just took draws, and that was fine. There's a bit of a run getting up below roof (near the end, between bolts 8 and 9ish), but the climbing gets easier as you get further from the bolt, it didn't feel at all dangerous. A well bolted route, IMO.
All in all, a gre... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Kloof Alcove : Superfly (5.12d)
By: Scott Bennett When: Jan 13, 2010

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Comments: Yeah, that #3 looks shady, fortunately there's a pretty good looking green Camalot a few inches below.
Agreed that it shouldn't get an R, but you'd better nail every placement or else things could get dangerous in a hurry.
-Scott


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Roof Routes : Huck Off (5.12b)
By: Scott Bennett When: Jan 12, 2010

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Comments: One of the best sport pitches in the canyon. There might not be any moves as hard as on its neighbor, "Hands in the Clouds", but Huck is definitely more sustained and exciting.
I won't say it's dangerous, but there's potential for some big air here. Getting the second bolt is spooky, but relatively easy and secure. After that, it's on, with big moves between good holds and little possibility to rest.
Fantastic position, killer rock, and outrageous moves make this an Eldo must-do!
-Scott


Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : Sunshine Wall : Arch Nemesis (5.12a)
By: Scott Bennett When: Jan 11, 2010

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Comments: Very enjoyable, don't be scared off by the OW looking flare at the bottom, it's pretty chill to just layback around it. I did think the seam up top was pretty heady, though, very insecure moves above small gear.
-Scott


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... : Rabbits From Hats (5.11+)
By: Scott Bennett When: Jan 5, 2010

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Comments: Fun little outing, maybe 30' of independent climbing. The gear is good, and the moves are strenuous and fun.
My only complaint is the "direct" start (described above), following the crack from the beginning up to the #3 Friend slot, is pretty contrived, since you can stem back into the "Disappearing Act" corner very easily. Above that, though, "Rabbits" does move left and becomes more independent.
-Scott


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : Hairstyles and Attitudes (5.12b/c)
By: Scott Bennett When: Dec 9, 2009

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Comments: Yes, there's a bolt at the lower belay (the start of the pitch). It will be obvious rapping down. This would be a cold winter route, though, good luck.
-Scott


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Cat Wall : Mousetrap (5.12-)
By: Scott Bennett When: Dec 8, 2009

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Comments: I agree with Lon, I had 4 #6's, and placed all of them! Of course you could just place one at the roof, and then push one the rest of the way, less weight to drag up...
Anyone found pacticularly good beta for the roof? I ended up just chimneying and stemming all the way out to the lip, then thrutching around for a while, hanging on a piece, then switching into a lieback and turning the roof. I guess it worked, but I'd like to hear what the OW honemasters do. Do people invert on this? I was... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Six Star Wall : Six Star Crack (5.13-)
By: Scott Bennett When: Dec 8, 2009

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Comments: Yeah Brad, thanks for added this, we'll all have to get back out there in the spring and send this beast.
A few extra comments:

-I think the FA was Steve Hong, based on the SH stamped bolts at the belays. Anyone know the full FA team?
-The first 40' or so of the first pitch are loose and pretty much unprotected; easy (5.9ish), but don't blow it. After that, the first pitch was pretty fun, with some interesting steep face climbing at the crux.
-You can rap the first pitch (as well as... more >>


Location: CA : High Sierra : Incredible Hulk : Photo
By: Scott Bennett When: Dec 5, 2009

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Comments: Great work Luke, thanks for posting this. Very small note: P5 of the Venturi Effect goes more to the left, and joins PV rather quickly.

Also, the ledge marked "the Terrace" is also known as "the Bivy Ledge". To make things more confusing, I have also heard of the big ledge atop P2 of P.V. (also shared with Venturi, Sunspot, etc) called the Terrace. I don't know what's correct.

I can't wait to get back here next year, this place rocks!
-Scott


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : El Capitan : Freerider (5.12d PG13)
By: Scott Bennett When: Nov 30, 2009

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Comments: Thanks for the beta, can't wait 'til spring in the Valley!

One more question: how is the Round Table ledge as a bivy, comfy for two?


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Wall : The Judge (5.12-)
By: Scott Bennett When: Nov 29, 2009

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Comments: Very enjoyable for a route with about 30' of "business". With all the rests, small gear, and tricky face climbing, it feels more like climbing in Eldo than the Creek. Thanks for putting this one up!


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Cat Wall : Super Cat of the Desert (5.12)
By: Scott Bennett When: Nov 28, 2009

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Comments: I'm inclined to agree with Brad, the choss on this route make it hard to earn true classic status on a wall stacked with gorgeous splitters. Worth doing, but don't fall before you get to the splitter.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Scarface : Desert Shield (5.12c)
By: Scott Bennett When: Nov 28, 2009

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Comments: Stellar route, hard to resist as it looms over the approach trail.

Here's my blow-by-blow: The lower crux (at the bolt) was hard to read, but easy once you figure it out. Butt friction was key.
Some cool, airy face climbing in the middle leads to a no hands rest while you contemplate the overhanging corner above.
The first thirty feet or so of the corner are definitely the enduro crux, as the corner pinches briefly to tips (~green aliens). Higher, footholds and pods make it pretty managable.
... more >>


Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : Sunshine Wall : Standard Route (5.11- R)
By: Scott Bennett When: Nov 18, 2009

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Comments: Definitely easy to rap with a single 60m, huge thanks to Kevin for the shiny new hardware. Also, the "11-" var. on P3 felt hard, but is very safe.
-Scott


Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : Sunshine Wall : Far Reaches (5.12c)
By: Scott Bennett When: Nov 18, 2009

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Comments: Stellar pitch, it's all just barely there. Definitely a tough lead, but the gear is there, and it's good.
-Scott


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