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Member Since: Jan 9, 2008
Last Visit: 3 days ago
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Point Rank: # 544
Total Points: 1,146
Last Year: 26
Last 30 Days: 0
169 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Scott Bennett been climbing?










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All 792 | Routes 18 | Areas 2 | Photos 154 | Page Improvements | Comments 166 | Posts 210 | Stars 129 | Ratings 113
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : South Platte : Wigwam Creek/Lost Creek Wil... : Wigwam Dome : Little Bo Peep Diploma (5.12c)
By: Scott Bennett When: Oct 21, 2010

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Comments: Fun route, worth checking out if you're in the area. I did think, though, that the rock was not nearly of the same quality of other hard South Platte classics.
It's the big-grained, sharp, and somewhat friable stuff that is usually avoided. Avoided, that it, unless it has a splitter like this!

-Scott


Location: CO : South Platte : West Creek : Thunder Ridge : The For Real Canyon : So Wild (5.10+)
By: Scott Bennett When: Oct 12, 2010

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Comments: Very fun route, felt totally safe with the 2 bolts. The move onto the ramp felt just as hard as anything on the supposed "5.12" to the left (Futile Attraction). Both routes felt like easy-ish 5.11.

Once past the bolts, the gear on the arete gets better and better. Which is great, because the final move is committing!

-Scott


Location: CO : South Platte : West Creek : Thunder Ridge : The For Real Canyon : Futile Attraction (5.12)
By: Scott Bennett When: Oct 12, 2010

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Comments: Killer start, and a creative line up high. Didn't feel anywhere near 5.12, though.

-Scott


Location: CO : South Platte : West Creek : Thunder Ridge : The For Real Canyon : The Real Thing (5.12)
By: Scott Bennett When: Oct 12, 2010

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Comments: Good climbing, but feels a bit contrived. You could easily climb into the 5.10 on the left down low, and higher (in the crux) the crack on the right pulls you off the bolt line as well.

Maybe some climbers are better at climbing with blinders on and simply enjoying the thin crimping up the middle, but I can't help but chase the good holds to the left or right.

Amazing tiny holds, though, and continuous movement make this worthwhile, even if you do drift left or right a bit.

-Scott


Location: CO : South Platte : West Creek : Thunder Ridge : The Wasp Canyon : Starlight (5.12d)
By: Scott Bennett When: Oct 12, 2010

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Comments: Sent this thing yesterday, clipping no bolts, and taking advantage of the abundant and high quality stopper placements all over the route! Seriously, this route doesn't need bolts, there's an obvious, A1 placement within feet of every bolt.

The fall off the crux is only slightly longer than the bolted fall, and it's totally clean. You're lobbing onto a nest of gear worthy of a belay. We called it the "Life Station"; think multiple huge stoppers, each in different cracks!

I had clippe... more >>


Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : The Red Wall : The Imposed (5.11c)
By: Scott Bennett When: Oct 8, 2010

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Comments: Is this the nice-looking finger crack near the left end of the crag? If so, bummer that someone felt it necessary to fully bolt what would be a G-rated gear lead. I really don't understand this (lack of) ethic.

-Scott

I'm just referring to the 2nd pitch, which we reached by walking over on the ledge. Didn't do P1.


Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : Poe Buttress : Edge of Fright (5.11 R)
By: Scott Bennett When: Oct 6, 2010

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Comments: Finally got around to leading this thing, fully engaging! It's on as soon as you step left into the thin seam, with many strenuous-to-place tiny wires.
As I mentioned in my previous comment, I thought a tricam might fit into a hole in the horizontal crack before the traverse left. I couldn't get pink or red in there, but the new tiny black Tricam went in! Equalized it with a decent #2 RP and felt great....

-Scott


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : South Rim Routes : Astro Dog (5.11+)
By: Scott Bennett When: Oct 3, 2010

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Comments: Sorry about the tick-marks, I made some of them while I was standing on that ledge nervously thinking there might not be gear for a while (there is). Should have had my partner brush them off.

I posted a movie of Me and Blake on the climb:
thebigwidewest.blogspot.com/20...

-Scott


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : The Diamond : Ariana (5.12a)
By: Scott Bennett When: Sep 30, 2010

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Comments: Don't overlook the 5.11 pitch after the crux! I onsighted the crux lead, but then I got clustered on the next lead when I ran out of gear 50' from the end of the pitch. Had to lower and backclean, blowing my glorious onsight.

The 5.11 pitch is long and sports no fixed gear, unlike the crux pitch which is maybe 60' and has three crucial fixed wires. The pump builds and builds, and it stays hard all the way to the end.

We had a single run of cams, next time I'd bring doubles from #0.4 to ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : Madame Guillotine (5.12)
By: Scott Bennett When: Sep 24, 2010

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Comments: A few more variations for those looking to enjoy the upper 5.11 section of MG:
You can start on the Northcutt Start, and continue up the thin corner to start clipping bolts on MG.
You can also Climb Werk Supp to Nexus into the upper 3 bolts of MG.

All are great variation pitches on good rock!


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : Genius Loci (5.11d)
By: Scott Bennett When: Sep 22, 2010

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Comments: Thought this route was so-so, probably a worthy line, but kinda of lame have a prominent sport route between two of the coolest trad routes in Eldo!

Seems contrived (you could climb into P1 of the Edge in multiple spots) and has some flaky rock. Kind of similar to Iron Pony - a slightly forced, difficult bolted arete just left of a classic crack climb.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : Seams Beyond (5.10b R)
By: Scott Bennett When: Sep 22, 2010

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Comments: Sounds fun, good job! I'll have to check it out.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : Nexus (5.11a)
By: Scott Bennett When: Sep 22, 2010

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Comments: This is a cool way to start a "barber pole" girdle traverse of the Bastille. From Bastille Crack P2, continue on the traverse to Outer Space, but instead of heading up the well-chalked dihedral, continue right on strata to join a dihedral on XM. Take this to the Outer Space ledge, and then continue around the ledge to the West Face and summit from there.

You could probably start further left still, somewhere on March of Dimes, for the longest traverse.

There's not too much shade in Eldo in the... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : The Diamond : Full House (5.12)
By: Scott Bennett When: Aug 27, 2010

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Comments: I was climbing with Joel when we bailed off Full House last week, and I first want to give a huge thanks to the FA team for putting up this line. It definitely took some vision and hard work to put it all together, and I regret that we didn't finish it.

That said, I do agree with Joel that the rock quality on the first 5 pitches wasn't stellar. I don't really think it's dangerous, but there were quite a few pieces that I didn't want to trust. Joel took a fall on P4 that ripped a cam and a fixed... more >>


Location: WY : Grand Teton National Park : Grand Teton : Owen Spalding (5.4)
By: Scott Bennett When: Jul 26, 2010

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Comments: On the descent, it is possible to make the main rappel (the one that avoids the "Belly Roll" and "Double Chimney") in a single rappel with a single 60m rope. This is from the well used slung-horn anchor.

Just make sure to trend to rappeler's right as you descend, and you'll land on walking terrain a few feet right and uphill from where most folks (with 2 ropes or a single 70m) will land. It's probably a 95' rap.

-Scott


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Higher Cathedral Rock : The Crucifix (5.12b)
By: Scott Bennett When: May 22, 2010

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Comments: FA: Jim Bridwell, Kevin Worrall. With "No pins, no bolts, no hammer, no food, 1 quart of water. Doubles on some hexes, not all, nothing bigger than a 10 hex and a few stoppers" and "one fuzzed out red and blue 150 ft Edelrid 9 mil that looked like it was salvaged from a food hang in camp."

Badass.

Here's a pitch-by-pitch breakdown from a modern ascent:

P1: From the 2-bolt belay on the NEB (P5 on the MP description... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Ribbon Falls Area : Gold Wall : The Silent Line (5.10 C1)
By: Scott Bennett When: May 20, 2010

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Comments: Excellent TR with photos here:
supertopo.com/tr/Gold-Member-I...


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Temple of Sinawava : The Silverback (5.12+)
By: Scott Bennett When: May 8, 2010

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Comments: The kitten is to leave in the Silverback's liar (inside the OW on P4) to keep the gorilla company.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Magic Mountain : Saucerful of Secrets (5.11d)
By: Scott Bennett When: May 8, 2010

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Comments: Cool climb in an unlikley spot. Lots of cool arete sequences, seperated by good stances. Definitely felt easier than the neighboring crack climb, "Dark and Long".


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Angel's Landing : Prodigal Sun (5.8 C2)
By: Scott Bennett When: Apr 28, 2010

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Comments: Glorified bolt ladder. Fun though.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : Madame Guillotine (5.12)
By: Scott Bennett When: Apr 20, 2010

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Comments: Sorry, I don't have my guidebook with me to check the FA info. Anyone know who put this up?
-Scott


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : Marie Antoinette (5.10a R)
By: Scott Bennett When: Apr 20, 2010

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Comments: Agreed that this should be considered "X" rated. I reached out right to clip the first bolt on "Madame Guillotine", and didn't get any pro until the bolt ~20-30' later. Definite groundfall potential on some 5.9 terrain.

I think I saw the RPs Tony was talking about, they're to the left of the line and I didn't place them because my last piece (the MG bolt) was down and to my right. Either way, the RPs didn't look great. You should probably be comfortable soloing Eldo 5.9 face climbing before ge... more >>


Location: CO : South Platte : West Creek : Thunder Ridge : The Wasp Canyon : Starlight (5.12d)
By: Scott Bennett When: Apr 10, 2010

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Comments: Absolutely stellar pitch!

Didn't think it was 12d hard, but that might be because I'm pretty tall (the move to the Manta Ray seemed reachy), and because I stepped left after pulling onto the vertical face (just before the rightwards traverse to the Manta Ray) and got a no hands rest.

Also, to echo Josh's comment above, this would definitely be a safe all-gear lead, for someone stronger than myself. A few good cams and stoppers would protect the initial overhang, and you could build a mini-an... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Cliffs of Insanity : Puzzle Factory (5.12)
By: Scott Bennett When: Apr 1, 2010

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Comments: Purple camalots go in well almost all the way up the route. Bring 6-8 Purple Camalots and 2-3 Green.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Optimator : Two Scoops (5.12)
By: Scott Bennett When: Mar 19, 2010

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Comments: This is the next route to the left of Optimator. Look for a bolt about 8' off the ground.


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