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photo by Forest Woodward


Member Since: Jan 9, 2008
Last Visit: 3 days ago
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Point Rank: # 544
Total Points: 1,146
Last Year: 26
Last 30 Days: 0
169 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Scott Bennett been climbing?










Contributions


All 792 | Routes 18 | Areas 2 | Photos 154 | Page Improvements | Comments 166 | Posts 210 | Stars 129 | Ratings 113
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : The Pages Wall Area : El Camino Real (5.12c)
By: Scott Bennett When: Apr 25, 2012

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Comments: Super nice route, looks great, and climbs even better!

As Dusty said, it's currently a clip up (5 fixed wires, 3 bolts). No need for gear fiddling to add to your pump!

I wonder about the history? Were the bolts added during the aid FA? or placed for free attempts? Seems like there's plenty of good gear there....

Just to be clear, I happily clipped all the fixed gear and bolts and still didn't send. I'm not advocating removing any bolts.

But if anyone is looking for a fully rad trad onsight ... more >>


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Moonlight Buttress : The Moonlight Buttress (Fre... (5.12d)
By: Scott Bennett When: Dec 3, 2011

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Comments: Good comments John and Josh, if anyone knows their desert cracks, it's you guys!

Bottom line, this is a stellar route with great gear and continuous climbing, solid at the 12a-12b grade, but enduro rather than cruxy. I think there are a lot of folks you would not hesitate to jump on these pitches at the crag, and they should be even more stoked to get on Moonlight.

Maybe what I'm ultimately aiming to do is shift the perception of MB from a trade/aid route and super-elite free climb, to one tha... more >>


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Moonlight Buttress : The Moonlight Buttress (Fre... (5.12d)
By: Scott Bennett When: Oct 29, 2011

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Comments: Not trying to be too provocative, but I just climbed this again the other day, and I'm surprised that this route continues to get a 12+ rating. I think the crux pitch has opened up significantly over the years (though I've only personally climbed it in the last year). Even with my sausage fingers, the crux layback pitch offered good finger locks the whole way. I can only imagine that the constant clean aid and free climbing reinforces and enlarges the existing pin/cam scars.

I don't think that ... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : The Diamond : Hearts and Arrows (5.12b)
By: Scott Bennett When: Jul 19, 2011

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Comments: Great Route, nice find guys and huge thanks for putting it up!

Did it yesterday with my friend Rob, and we found the first two pitches (shared with D1) to be wet, but still easy. The whole middle portion of the route, and all the crux climbing, was in great shape. There were tickmarks everywhere, though, even on 5.10 terrain.

12b seemed right on for the crux pitch. Not sure if there were any moves as hard as 12a, but the whole package (p7 of sustained climbing at nearly 14k) adds up to a burly... more >>


Location: CO : Independence Pass : Grotto Walls Area : Lower Grotto Wall : Headless Franken Chicken (5.12a)
By: Scott Bennett When: Jun 15, 2011

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Comments: Fun route, Jay, thanks for putting it up!


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Fern Canyon Rocks : Rock Of Ages : The Wasp (5.13a)
By: Scott Bennett When: Jun 9, 2011

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Comments: One of the best pitches I've ever done. Anywhere.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Petit Grepon : South Face (5.8)
By: Scott Bennett When: Jun 4, 2011

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Comments: Does anyone know what the potential downclimbing descent from the summit would be like?

I'm thinking the easiest way would be to downclimb the first rappel, and then continue to the Sharkstooth notch and down into the Andrew's Glacier side. If anyone has done this, how'd it go?


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : South Rim Routes : Tague Yer Time (5.12)
By: Scott Bennett When: Jun 3, 2011

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Comments: This route is indeed a classic! If you enjoy thin granite cracks and corners with good pro, get on this route!

A few notes and suggestions:

Our original plan, and one I would recommend to anyone looking for a relaxed outing, was to spend two days on the route. It is very easy to rap in with a haulbag to the two-boulder-bivy. Take full advantage of the top-down hauling to bring beer, good food, boombox, whatever. The bivy is nice for two people. (We did not end up climbing the second half of th... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - S Buttress : Pilgrim (5.10d)
By: Scott Bennett When: Jun 3, 2011

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Comments: Definitely a fun, worthwhile route on good rock with cool position.

There are two-bolt anchors at the start and finish of this pitch.

To descend, you can easily rap from top of the route back to the two-bolt anchor at the start (80'), and then make an angling rap along the Pseudo-Sidetrack ramp back to the ground (110', or 100' with 4th class downclimbing).


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Fern Canyon Rocks : Rock Of Ages : ... : Photo
By: Scott Bennett When: May 30, 2011

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Comments: Yeeehawww!

Cody-
Way to go ground up and show us all how it's done!


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - S Face : Scotch and Soda (5.11b R)
By: Scott Bennett When: May 24, 2011

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Comments: Worthwhile pitch, not as high-quality as Metamorphosis, but it shares the same cool position and short approach.

There are many new bolts on the face above the roof, it's not at all runout. After the roof, go up and left past a pin to a two-bolt anchor. Zig zag left, then right, past two more new bolts to another 2 bolt station (?). Another new bolt protects you going straight up past a final hard move, then wander up the lichenous face to the top of the wall. Belay at one bolt (with good gear)... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Roof Routes : Fire and Ice (5.12a PG13)
By: Scott Bennett When: Apr 15, 2011

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Comments: Fun little route, the epitome of an Eldo climb that either feels easy or impossible. If you enjoy this style of climbing, definitely check out "Book of Numbers", P1 of BoN is about the same grade as F&I.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Mountain : Mickey Mouse Wall : Mighty Mouse (5.12a)
By: Scott Bennett When: Dec 15, 2010

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Comments: A terrific, thin-face pitch! Very crimpy and sometimes cryptic, this is a good complement to the thuggy overhangs at Industrial Wall. I'm sure it'd be a welcome challenge for any of the strong folks projecting steep 5.13s down the hill.

-Scott


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : The Naked Edge (5.11a/b)
By: Scott Bennett When: Dec 3, 2010

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Comments: Bob Rotert said: "Dave Vaughan & I were able to shorten the Gilbert & Slater 1:38 speed record on the edge, stated in Steve Levin's earlier post. On 9/06/06 our time was 1:22 parking lot to parking lot done traditional style, no French free, no simulclimbing, and no skate boarding down the East Slabs"

Huge props to the Bob and Dave! I've been itching to give this a try for a while now, and finally got a psyched partner and good temps today.

Blake Herrington and I went bridge to bridge in 1:13... more >>


Location: CO : South Platte : West Creek : Thunder Ridge : The Brown Wall : Thunderstruck (5.13)
By: Scott Bennett When: Dec 2, 2010

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Comments: I was very impressed by this route! As soon as the Brown wall comes into view as you hike up Wasp Canyon, this is the line that stands out.

The first pitch is a great warm-up, felt maybe 11+. The second is all business, with some delicate slabbing to set up for two successive roofs.

The first roof was the standout crux for us, and we could not figure out the moves. I'd love to see someone on this, seems like a bizarre and strenuous sequence. Can't comment on the 12+/13 debate, since we didn'... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Mellow Yellow (5.11d PG13)
By: Scott Bennett When: Dec 2, 2010

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Comments: Replaced the bolts on the final pitch today. Thanks to Josh Thompson for the expertise and ASCA for the hardware.


Location: CO : South Platte : West Creek : Thunder Ridge : The Wasp Canyon : Starlight (5.12d)
By: Scott Bennett When: Nov 29, 2010

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Comments: Phil wrote:
"Get a life....pansy asses...removing the bolts now wouldn't change shit....
...Let others enjoy this ultra-classic, instead of just a few elitist pricks...
...Unlike most climbers, I don't worship the 120 lb. douchebags...
...you sure aren't curing fucking cancer...
...Scott, Blake, Josh, you're all a bunch of tools in my opin. If you want to discuss it further, find me in the parking lot."
-----------------------

Wow. Classy.

-Scott


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Ruper (5.8+)
By: Scott Bennett When: Nov 28, 2010

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Comments: As with all soloing, always climb within your ability, stay in control, and don't fall!


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Ruper (5.8+)
By: Scott Bennett When: Nov 23, 2010

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Comments: Mic Fairchild said:
"Bridge to bridge speed record for Ruper is 44 minutes"

I did it today, bridge to bridge, in 32 minutes and 11 seconds.

It'd be cool to get it under a half hour. Any takers?


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Moonlight Buttress : The Moonlight Buttress (Fre... (5.12d)
By: Scott Bennett When: Nov 3, 2010

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Comments: Big thanks to Josh for all the beta, I climbed it with him the other day and he definitely knows the route. His rack is right on, although maybe a bit heavy on the Blue and Green Alien size. Definitely didn't need anything bigger.

Since people seem really interested in rapping, I'll say this:
The anchors low on the route, below the 5.11 face traverse pitch, seem to have been recently updated. There are two more anchors below the one at the end of the traverse with nice new bolts. Thanks to whoe... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : The Convent : The Value of Audacity (5.11+)
By: Scott Bennett When: Oct 28, 2010

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Comments: Fun route, we tried it yesterday as part of an attempted 5-tower enchainment of the ridge. We only finished 3 towers, in a large part because this route was pretty time consuming.
The P1 roof is definitely the crux. When it seems really desperate, look around.
We stopped P1 short (~70', atop the giant block/fin) due to rope drag, but were still easily able to finish the route in two more pitches (3 total).

Finding the raps: We rapped the corner to the climber's left of VOA, as mentioned above. ... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Way Rambo : Slice and Dice (5.12)
By: Scott Bennett When: Oct 28, 2010

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Comments: Agree that this route is not as hard as it looks. There end up being quite a few good rests, including a no-hands if you step right about 20' up. Still a great route!


Location: CO : South Platte : West Creek : Thunder Ridge : The Wasp Canyon : Starlight (5.12d)
By: Scott Bennett When: Oct 28, 2010

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Comments: To respond to a few comments:

Slim is right, I did not do the route ground up on gear. I wish I had, it would have been totally safe, but I had every reason to believe that the bolts were needed. I have much respect for the Thunder Ridge crew, and on most of the other routes I had climbed there, bolts were not added where removable protection could be used. So I assumed that, despite the appearance of natural cracks, the gear was less than ideal. So I clipped the bolts.

Once I saw first hand t... more >>


Location: CO : South Platte : West Creek : Thunder Ridge : The Wasp Canyon : Starlight (5.12d)
By: Scott Bennett When: Oct 23, 2010

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Comments: Yes, all gear was placed on lead for the send. I did have everything sussed by then, though, with each stopper at the ready on its own QD, so I can't say it was really any pumpier than clipping the bolts. An onsight, well, that would be impressive... .

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If Kevin and Glenn want the bolts there, they should remain. It's their route.

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Matt is right, establishing new routes is way cooler than retro-tradding old ones. I just hope that future first-ascentionists fully c... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Bell Buttress Massif : Bell Buttress - Main Crag : Epiphany (5.11d R)
By: Scott Bennett When: Oct 22, 2010

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Comments: Agree that this is a fine pitch, one that I overlooked on my first few visits to this crag (the best crag in Boulder Canyon?)

I thought the climbing was consistently thought provoking, up to a great rest, and then a full-on crux. Bonus points for finishing on the fun finger crack shared with Arms Bazaar.

As for pro, I felt adequately protected on all the 5.10 and above sections. Not R, but bring RPs, and don't botch the crux gear.

-Scott


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