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photo by Forest Woodward


Member Since: Jan 9, 2008
Last Visit: Apr 14, 2014
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Point Rank: # 499
Total Points: 1,138
Last Year: 58
Last 30 Days: 0
148 Compliments
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All (781) | Routes (18) | Areas (2) | Photos (153) | Comments (163) | Posts (205) | Stars (128) | Ratings (112)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : 10,000 Leagues (5.11- R)
By: Scott Bennett When: Mar 17, 2014

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Comments: Thanks for the comment, and all your awesome routes, Topher! I'm a pretty bad route-grader, so I just gave this route the grade I felt was appropriate. If I remember Lene's Dream correctly, the crux of that pitch comes just before joining the Edge, whereas 10k Leagues breaks left sooner. But haven't climbed either route in a while, so take that with a grain of salt.

Glad to hear there's more terrain on this route that I didn't find the first time, I'll definitely have to go back up and try it a... more >>


Location: CO : South Platte : West Creek : Thunder Ridge : The Alligator Lounge : Wave Goodbye (5.12+)
By: Scott Bennett When: Mar 17, 2014

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Comments: I really enjoyed the thin tech-y climbing at the start of this route but then bailed off the 5th bolt due to loose rock. There are a few big, (very) loose flakes, both to the right and left, and I couldn't find a way through the roof that didn't endanger my belayer.

It was late in the day, so I didn't make an effort to rap in and trundle the flakes, but it seems like this would be a good idea. If the rest of the route is as good (and hard!) as the beginning, it'd be a worthy project.


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Lost Angel : Archangel (5.12c)
By: Scott Bennett When: Sep 30, 2013

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Comments: Climbed this route today; what a nice line. I'd been up to that area many times, but I'd never considered attempting Archangel before now.

Thanks to Chris for resurrecting a fun and unique climb. There aren't too many granite "feature" climbs like this in Boulder.

To add my two-cents to the bolting debate, it sounds like the route never received a true free ascent; pink-pointing doesn't count. That said, Thom clearly spent a lot of time on this piece of rock, so his opinion... more >>


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Moonlight Buttress : Sheer Lunacy (Free) (5.12b)
By: Scott Bennett When: Apr 20, 2013

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Comments: With long pitches and a touch of easy simuling, this route goes in 4 pitches:
P1 from the ground to the base of the Primo Crack (we started up Moonlight. This pitch involved some 5.7 simuling)
P2 up the Primo crack to the first set of anchors
P3 to Toquerville tower
P4 to top

Fun route!


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Much Slater (left variation... (5.11d X)
By: Scott Bennett When: Feb 16, 2013

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Comments: Agree with Eric, the natural line follows the seam above the roof, up and to the right. I stepped right to the flake w/ pin, and then stepped back left to the vague system of hollow flakes that led to the fixed nut.

As for pro on the pitch, I was able to stretch and place bomber gear above the roof before committing to the crux and then stepped back down to rest. Getting established above the roof is the crux, and then there are a few thin moves before gaining the aforementioned flake with pin.... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Mountain : Mickey Mouse Wall : Zambezi (5.12-)
By: Scott Bennett When: Jan 20, 2013

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Comments: Here's a bit more beta on the crux pitch:

The runout to the bolt is serious: a fall could put you back on the ledge 10m below. The bolt might be a stretch to clip for shorter folks, but maybe small gear could be found just below it.

The thin crack starts off with surprisingly good finger locks, and offers a great jug before you must commit to the crux. I placed #1 Camalot at the jug. Make big moves up and left to the hand-jam pod, and make sure to jam high enough in the pod so that you c... more >>


Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : Cynical Pinnacle : Rising Crescendo (5.11c/d R)
By: Scott Bennett When: Jan 7, 2013

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Comments: Wow, did this today, linking P3 of RC through the book on Wunsch's for an awesome 70m pitch.

Those two pitches (P2 of RC and P3 linked to Wunsch's) must be two of the better looong back-to-back granite pitches I've done.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : Scratch and Sniff (5.12a)
By: Scott Bennett When: Dec 8, 2012

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Comments: Actually four bolts, and a finger-sized cam would protect the move to the first bolt.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Battle of the Bulge Buttres... : Disco Machine Gun (5.12)
By: Scott Bennett When: Dec 7, 2012

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Comments: Felt a bit soft for 12. Great stemming most of the way, and great gear up high (#1 and #2 Camalots). Sure it gets thin, I even placed a slidernut, but you're above BOMBER gear and there are great footholds.

Don't be intimidated.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : 10,000 Leagues (5.11- R)
By: Scott Bennett When: Dec 6, 2012

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Comments: A few more notes:

Steve Levin calls for Tricams and Slider-nuts. I brought 'em, but they stayed on my harness the whole time. I did find C3s to be useful.

Also, this route might not merit a three star rating on its own, but the climbing on Jules Verne is mega-classic, and the position is amazing. If it were clean, maybe it'd be a different story, but I don't think that'll happen soon.

-Scott


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Roof Routes : The Wisdom (5.11d R)
By: Scott Bennett When: Dec 1, 2012

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Comments: In reply to the above post, yes this climb goes easily in one pitch, it's about 50m in total (p1-3, I'm not sure about adding the Psycho Slab). With long slings, strategic runouts, and a skinny rope, I didn't feel there was any ropedrag at the crux.

Also, there's no reason to haul 2 gold Camalots up the route. If you wanna double down on gear before the crux, there's a great purple Camalot in the left side of the undercling pod.

Scott


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : Seams Beyond (5.10b R)
By: Scott Bennett When: Nov 14, 2012

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Comments: Finally got to this one, what a nice pitch! Not much gear, but the holds are all incut and mostly solid.

A good finish to many different routes, including After the Gold Rush and Love Minus Zero.

Probably only 2/4 stars by itself, but inevitably you climbed something good to get here, and the position is killer.

-Scott


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : After The Gold Rush (5.12a PG13)
By: Scott Bennett When: Nov 14, 2012

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Comments: WOW, what a wild line! Thanks guys, this route is worthy.

Both pitches are far from "one-move-wonders"! P1 features sustained, hyper-techy crimps and stems up a blank corner; I kept thinking that I'd done the crux, only to find one more baffling sequence.

P2 is a sampler plate of Eldo weirdness (in a good way). We felt like there were four different cruxes, from 5.11- to 5.12-. Burly reaches, heady crimping, powerful arete climbing, and a funky roof to cap it all!

This route gets p... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Sabbatical Wall : Immaculate Conception (5.12)
By: Scott Bennett When: Oct 24, 2012

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Comments: FFA Bennett, Troutman, 2011

And if you're in the area, keep hiking right to find "Mother" (13-) and "Shotgun Wedding" (12+).


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : Mexican Picnic (5.12b/c)
By: Scott Bennett When: Sep 20, 2012

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Comments: What a wild route! It's definitely seeing a bit of action, judging from chalk, and seems plenty clean and safe.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : The Diamond : King of Swords (5.12a)
By: Scott Bennett When: Jul 14, 2012

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Comments: Kings of Swords is a great route! As of 7-13-12, the entire route was bone dry, including the last pitch.

We did the 11d on the left side of the pillar for the crux lead, since we were light on small gear and the 12a looked quite thin. The 11d was excellent!

-----------------------

As for the infamous "Torture Chamber", it certainly looks like a horrible experience: a two foot wide, two foot deep runnel of disintegrating gravel.

But, we were able to avoid this horror show with the "cheater s... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : The Black Wall : Good Evans (5.10d)
By: Scott Bennett When: Jul 10, 2012

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Comments: Amazing route! It definitely goes in two pitches; it's probably 120m from the starting ledge to the rim. There's a nice spot to belay above the long hand crack, before the first roof.

HOW TO RAP IN WITH A SINGLE 70m:
There are two sets of bolts atop the wall. One has two Mammut hangers and long chains. Don't use this one. Use the set with a Metolius hanger and a Mammut hanger, a few meters to climber's left. As of 7-10-12, this anchor had no chains or slings, but you can leave your ow... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : The Naked Edge (5.11a/b)
By: Scott Bennett When: May 18, 2012

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Comments: Much respect to Jason Wells and Stefan Griebel for shattering the speed record, posting up 49m 44s bridge-to-bridge!!!


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Otis Peak : Fire Tower : I Thought You Had It? (5.10- R)
By: Scott Bennett When: May 18, 2012

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Comments: My friend Cody and I headed up there yesterday, unaware of any of the routes on "Fire Tower". I think we basically followed this route, doing the same first pitch to the ledge, but then climbed that awesome looking splitter on the left wall of the dihedral.

Really classic finger and thin-hand crack, probably 12-, on great rock. Definitely recommended. We also rapped the route (lazy, I know). We had two ropes, but I bet you could do it with a single 70.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : One and a Half Hours of Pow... (5.11- PG13)
By: Scott Bennett When: May 13, 2012

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Comments: I haven't checked out the bolt stud in a while, but I remember slinging it with a stopper and wishing it were an actual bolt.

So yes, if someone is motivated to replace the hanger, or the whole assembly, I think that would be useful.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : The Untouchables (5.12c)
By: Scott Bennett When: May 13, 2012

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Comments: If you're interested in climbing the fun 5.11 second pitch but don't want to tackle the 12c first pitch, you can reach it in two ways:

-Climb Apple Strudel (12a) to the shared, three-bolt anchor.

-Climb any route up to the "Red Ledge" (the best would probably be Parting Shot, 11b), and then rappel off a large tree (with rap slings) to the three-bolt anchor from which the second pitch begins.

Take care on this rap: the wall is steep, and the anchor is to rappeler's right. If you don't keep yo... more >>


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : The Pages Wall Area : El Camino Real (5.12c)
By: Scott Bennett When: Apr 28, 2012

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Comments: Hey Bernard! Thanks for the great history and great job on the ascent, not to mention all your super-useful guidebooks!

It sure is one pumpy pitch. When I was there, my friend Cody fell just at the last hard move on his second attempt, saying he just couldn't hold the core tension anymore. It must have been heartbreaking to fall there twice, I'm glad you had the persistence to finish it off.

I would be really interested in going back and checking the gear, or maybe getting some local hard-pers... more >>


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : The Pages Wall Area : El Camino Real (5.12c)
By: Scott Bennett When: Apr 25, 2012

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Comments: Super nice route, looks great, and climbs even better!

As Dusty said, it's currently a clip up (5 fixed wires, 3 bolts). No need for gear fiddling to add to your pump!

I wonder about the history? Were the bolts added during the aid FA? or placed for free attempts? Seems like there's plenty of good gear there....

Just to be clear, I happily clipped all the fixed gear and bolts and still didn't send. I'm not advocating removing any bolts.

But if anyone is looking for a fully rad trad onsight ... more >>


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Moonlight Buttress : The Moonlight Buttress (Fre... (5.12d)
By: Scott Bennett When: Dec 3, 2011

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Comments: Good comments John and Josh, if anyone knows their desert cracks, it's you guys!

Bottom line, this is a stellar route with great gear and continuous climbing, solid at the 12a-12b grade, but enduro rather than cruxy. I think there are a lot of folks you would not hesitate to jump on these pitches at the crag, and they should be even more stoked to get on Moonlight.

Maybe what I'm ultimately aiming to do is shift the perception of MB from a trade/aid route and super-elite free climb, to one tha... more >>


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Moonlight Buttress : The Moonlight Buttress (Fre... (5.12d)
By: Scott Bennett When: Oct 29, 2011

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Comments: Not trying to be too provocative, but I just climbed this again the other day, and I'm surprised that this route continues to get a 12+ rating. I think the crux pitch has opened up significantly over the years (though I've only personally climbed it in the last year). Even with my sausage fingers, the crux layback pitch offered good finger locks the whole way. I can only imagine that the constant clean aid and free climbing reinforces and enlarges the existing pin/cam scars.

I don't think that ... more >>


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