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Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : The Red Wall : Crystal Cruise aka Crystal ... (5.6)
By: Sarah Meiser When: May 27, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: According to the Haas S. Platte book, this is Crystal Corner (5.9). The few cruxy slab moves down low felt 5.9 to me.
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Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Gym : Black Mamba Arete (5.8)
By: Sarah Meiser When: Apr 7, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Runout between 2nd & 3rd bolts might not have been the best idea. Easy climbing, yes, but crappy rock there, and if something blows, there is groundfall potential. Fun moves on better rock up high, but it seemed a little thin compared to other 8s at Shelf.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : The Bishop : Ellingwood Chimney (5.8)
By: Sarah Meiser When: Nov 8, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I don't understand why there is so much ado about rapping from this thing. The new SPlatte guidebook says the easiest way is a double rope rap down the east face. I have no idea why you'd haul an extra rope up for that, since like Sergio says: You can easily rap down the west side and reach the ground with a 60 meter rope, nothing tricky about it. The anchor on the summit is clearly set up for doing this. No need for double ropes or multiple raps.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Parriot Mesa : Longbow Chimney (5.8 A1)
By: Sarah Meiser When: Oct 22, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: There is a scary chockstone about 2/3 of the way up the chimney that moves and looks quite precarious. Don't yard on it! Its easy to stem over.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : The Jungle : Jungle Love (5.9)
By: Sarah Meiser When: Sep 3, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think the roof is height dependent. I (5'6") was perplexed for a bit and the trick was dynoing for a key hold my taller partner could reach from the deck. I tried everything I could to work up and reach it statically and I just couldn't. Once I had that hold pulling the roof was a piece of cake. This roof felt harder to me than the one to the right on Man in the Yellow Hat (5.10a). Good bolting at the crux though so this shouldn't stop shorter leaders.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : The Hallway : Sideslot (5.9-)
By: Sarah Meiser When: Sep 3, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Short but fun climb with a lot of variety. Very well bolted and a great climb for newer leaders trying to push the grade.
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : CO Hwy 7 & Tributaries : Jurassic Park - Lily Lake : Big Ass Slab? : Stout Blue Vein (5.8)
By: Sarah Meiser When: Aug 25, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I didn't think the traverse was contived at all. When I did the climb, the obvious hand ledge traverse seemed like the natural way to go. Fun, thoughtful, & well protected, it makes the climb. The rest is way easier. If you're going to skip the traverse, then don't bother doing the climb.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part D - Xanad... : Rhadamanthus (5.10a R)
By: Sarah Meiser When: Aug 24, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: BEWARE THIS IS NOT A G RATED CLIMB! Sure, you can "sew it up" before pulling the crux moves, BUT even though the placements may look good, they're not necessarily going to hold a fall. My partner took an 18 foot groundfall when all 3 pieces he placed up there blew from a minor slip at the crux. A somewhat blindly placed nut in the crack at the top of the small roof and a small, purple Metolius cam that looked like a textbook placement blew immediately from the 1-2 foot fall (these pieces were at... more >>
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : San Juans : Uncompahgre/Big Blue Wilder... : Chimney Rock
By: Sarah Meiser When: Aug 17, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Chimney ROCK. At least that's its official name, not Chimney Peak. Why does this bother me? :)
Edit: From a great Trail & Timberline article (Fall 2012), "It is officially named Chimney Rock but has been known locally as Chimney Peak."
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Location: WY : Wind River Range : Titcomb Basin Area : Mount Woodrow Wilson : South Couloir (5.1 Mod. Snow)
By: Sarah Meiser When: Jul 16, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: We climbed this in poor condition because we really wanted to make the summit of Woodrow Wilson. The bottom of the couloir was melted out and required a very loose Class 4+ pitch. Snow above was rotten so we stayed roped up and simulclimbed, placing occasional pro in the couloir walls.
A series of old rappel anchors set up for double rope rappels got us back down. Lightning struck the summit during our descent. We were perhaps 200 feet down the couloir at the time and some of us got shocked thr... more >>
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Location: WY : Wind River Range : Cirque of the Towers : Overhanging Tower : Northwest Ridge/West Face (Easy 5th Easy Snow)
By: Sarah Meiser When: Jul 4, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: To find the start of the cairned route (and path of least resistance) look for a dihedral that is obvious from the col and very close to it. Its got a nice crack going up the left side. We were comfortable scrambling up and down the route sans rope but having one along still seemed like a good idea.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Across from The Bihedral ak... : Unknown 10- (5.9+)
By: Sarah Meiser When: May 23, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I thought this was the line called Spooked? When I climbed it I was wondering if the poop had something to do with the name. Could the route currently labeled as Spooked be wrong? Or am I wrong?
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Boulder Slips : Party Time! (5.9)
By: Sarah Meiser When: Apr 16, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I usually have no problem with a little choss, but in its current state, this climb is dangerous and not worth doing. A hold near the top busted while my partner was on it and sent a bunch of rock down on the belay. I climbed it afterwards and noted there were several more large, loose chunks of rock waiting to go.
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Location: UT : Zion National Park : East Side : Aries Butte : Led by Sheep (5.7)
By: Sarah Meiser When: Apr 12, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: THANK YOU, thank you, thank you to those who bolted this route! Absolutely wonderful. Fun climbing in a spectacular setting. I'm a timid leader (though very familar with Zion slickrock) and both times I've led this 4 quickdraws and a personal anchor were all I needed. Leave the trad gear at home.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Nip and Tuck : Doc's Route (5.7)
By: Sarah Meiser When: May 26, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: As a fledgling 7 trad and 8 sport leader, I got freaked below the 1st bolt. The #7 stopper placement looked a bit iffy. Backed off and spotted a nice little crack from the ground. Double zero C3 saved the day, I hung on that puppy to test it... beautiful! Absolute comfort cruise from there.
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Location: UT : Saint George : Snow Canyon State Park : Island In The Sky : Circus Wall : Barbarian (5.6 R)
By: Sarah Meiser When: Apr 25, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: As a timid newbie leader I was totally comfortable and I'm glad I didn't see the R here beforehand or I probably wouldn't have tried it. On P2 a few of the huge chicken heads make great pro (double length slings) and I also found some relatively good nut & hex placements.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Kane Springs Canyon : Ice Cream Parlor : Brewed Awakenings (5.5)
By: Sarah Meiser When: Apr 4, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Protects well, good beginner lead. Bomber #12 and #13 nut placements. Fun climb.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bihedral Area : The Bihedral (Upper Tier) : A Fly in the Ointment (5.10a)
By: Sarah Meiser When: Mar 28, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Entire route seems solid now, looks like everything that could break off did already. Fun, pumpy climb.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Arches National Park : The 100-yard Wall : Nutcracker (5.8)
By: Sarah Meiser When: Nov 8, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: To toprope the route you can anchor to a tree above the lip but its not that close to the edge and you'd need a very long piece of webbing to keep the rope from scraping over a lot of sandstone. We ended up belaying from the top using the rope to extend the anchor.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Moab Rim Area : Wilson Arch : Wilson Arch Regular Route (5.3)
By: Sarah Meiser When: Nov 8, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: If you plan to rap off the anchors on top a 60 meter rope will just barely get you down.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Arches National Park : The 100-yard Wall : Fledgling (5.4)
By: Sarah Meiser When: Nov 7, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: On 11/5/10 we found it impossible to get off the ground for this route. At first I thought a hold must have broken loose. However I noticed that the base is all sand and I wonder if pour-off from recent heavy storms dug it out. We may have been able to stack a huge pile of rocks to get started but it didn't seem worth the effort.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : Dock Rock
By: Sarah Meiser When: Nov 7, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Replaced top anchor webbing on 11/7/10.
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