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Me hugging the summit block of Snowmass Mountain after a winter ascent, my 2nd attempt


Member Since: Nov 1, 2010
Last Visit: 1 day ago
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Point Rank: # 873
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All (816) | Routes (11) | Areas (3) | Photos (100) | Comments (26) | Posts (11) | Stars (623) | Ratings (42)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Crimpson Candy (5.10b)
By: Sarah Meiser When: Oct 7, 2013

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Comments: I (nervously) enjoyed this climb, but it isn't as safe as most of the other routes in the area. Solid 5.10 leaders will have no problem; new or shaky ones may. There is serious deck potential on a ledge down low, and at the top it is very runout to the anchor on nontrivial terrain.


Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Tail : Inner Reaches (5.8)
By: Sarah Meiser When: Sep 23, 2013

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Comments: A 60m rope works but just barely. Be careful and make sure you belay from the little nook ABOVE the trail, not the trail itself. We had just a few inches to spare when the climber stood on top of the boulder at the start of the route.

About halfway up there is cool hand jamming through a roof to gain the actual crack. Didn't seem easy for a Turkey Rock 5.8, right on par I thought.


Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : Wipeyur Buttress : Silent But Deadly (5.9-)
By: Sarah Meiser When: Jun 30, 2013

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Comments: Don't let the large spacing between bolts scrare you away; this climb is well bolted. It's the easiest route at the crag and would be a good quick warmup for some of the harder 9s.


Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : Chicken Head Ranch : Extra Crispy (5.10b)
By: Sarah Meiser When: Jun 30, 2013

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Comments: Maybe it's 10b if you do some sort of average. The crux definitely felt tougher than that, but it's well bolted and perfect for someone breaking into harder 10s.


Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : The Red Wall : Crystal Cruise aka Crystal ... (5.6)
By: Sarah Meiser When: May 27, 2013

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Comments: According to the Haas S. Platte book, this is Crystal Corner (5.9). The few cruxy slab moves down low felt 5.9 to me.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Gym : Black Mamba Arete (5.8)
By: Sarah Meiser When: Apr 7, 2013

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Comments: Runout between 2nd & 3rd bolts might not have been the best idea. Easy climbing, yes, but crappy rock there, and if something blows, there is groundfall potential. Fun moves on better rock up high, but it seemed a little thin compared to other 8s at Shelf.


Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : The Bishop : Ellingwood Chimney (5.8)
By: Sarah Meiser When: Nov 8, 2012

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Comments: I don't understand why there is so much ado about rapping from this thing. The new SPlatte guidebook says the easiest way is a double rope rap down the east face. I have no idea why you'd haul an extra rope up for that, since like Sergio says: You can easily rap down the west side and reach the ground with a 60 meter rope, nothing tricky about it. The anchor on the summit is clearly set up for doing this. No need for double ropes or multiple raps.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Parriot Mesa : Longbow Chimney (5.8 A1)
By: Sarah Meiser When: Oct 22, 2012

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Comments: There is a scary chockstone about 2/3 of the way up the chimney that moves and looks quite precarious. Don't yard on it! Its easy to stem over.


Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : The Jungle : Jungle Love (5.9)
By: Sarah Meiser When: Sep 3, 2012

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Comments: I think the roof is height dependent. I (5'6") was perplexed for a bit and the trick was dynoing for a key hold my taller partner could reach from the deck. I tried everything I could to work up and reach it statically and I just couldn't. Once I had that hold pulling the roof was a piece of cake. This roof felt harder to me than the one to the right on Man in the Yellow Hat (5.10a). Good bolting at the crux though so this shouldn't stop shorter leaders.


Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : The Hallway : Sideslot (5.9-)
By: Sarah Meiser When: Sep 3, 2012

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Comments: Short but fun climb with a lot of variety. Very well bolted and a great climb for newer leaders trying to push the grade.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : CO Hwy 7 & Tributaries : Jurassic Park - Lily Lake : Big Ass Slab? : Stout Blue Vein (5.8)
By: Sarah Meiser When: Aug 25, 2012

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Comments: I didn't think the traverse was contived at all. When I did the climb, the obvious hand ledge traverse seemed like the natural way to go. Fun, thoughtful, & well protected, it makes the climb. The rest is way easier. If you're going to skip the traverse, then don't bother doing the climb.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part D - Xanad... : Rhadamanthus (5.10a R)
By: Sarah Meiser When: Aug 24, 2012

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Comments: BEWARE THIS IS NOT A G RATED CLIMB! Sure, you can "sew it up" before pulling the crux moves, BUT even though the placements may look good, they're not necessarily going to hold a fall. My partner took an 18 foot groundfall when all 3 pieces he placed up there blew from a minor slip at the crux. A somewhat blindly placed nut in the crack at the top of the small roof and a small, purple Metolius cam that looked like a textbook placement blew immediately from the 1-2 foot fall (these pieces were at... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : San Juans : Uncompahgre/Big Blue Wilder... : Chimney Rock
By: Sarah Meiser When: Aug 17, 2012

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Comments: Chimney ROCK. At least that's its official name, not Chimney Peak. Why does this bother me? :)

Edit: From a great Trail & Timberline article (Fall 2012), "It is officially named Chimney Rock but has been known locally as Chimney Peak."


Location: WY : Wind River Range : Titcomb Basin Area : Mount Woodrow Wilson : South Couloir (5.1 Mod. Snow)
By: Sarah Meiser When: Jul 16, 2012

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Comments: We climbed this in poor condition because we really wanted to make the summit of Woodrow Wilson. The bottom of the couloir was melted out and required a very loose Class 4+ pitch. Snow above was rotten so we stayed roped up and simulclimbed, placing occasional pro in the couloir walls.

A series of old rappel anchors set up for double rope rappels got us back down. Lightning struck the summit during our descent. We were perhaps 200 feet down the couloir at the time and some of us got shocked thr... more >>


Location: WY : Wind River Range : Cirque of the Towers : Overhanging Tower : Northwest Ridge/West Face (Easy 5th Easy Snow)
By: Sarah Meiser When: Jul 4, 2012

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Comments: To find the start of the cairned route (and path of least resistance) look for a dihedral that is obvious from the col and very close to it. Its got a nice crack going up the left side. We were comfortable scrambling up and down the route sans rope but having one along still seemed like a good idea.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Across from The Bihedral ak... : Unknown 10- aka Spooked (5.9+)
By: Sarah Meiser When: May 23, 2012

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Comments: I thought this was the line called Spooked? When I climbed it, I was wondering if the poop had something to do with the name. Could the route currently labeled as Spooked be wrong? Or am I wrong?


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Boulder Slips : Party Time! (5.9)
By: Sarah Meiser When: Apr 16, 2012

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Comments: I usually have no problem with a little choss, but in its current state, this climb is dangerous and not worth doing. A hold near the top busted while my partner was on it and sent a bunch of rock down on the belay. I climbed it afterwards and noted there were several more large, loose chunks of rock waiting to go.


Location: UT : Zion National Park : East Side : Aries Butte : Led by Sheep (5.7)
By: Sarah Meiser When: Apr 12, 2012

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Comments: THANK YOU, thank you, thank you to those who bolted this route! Absolutely wonderful. Fun climbing in a spectacular setting. I'm a timid leader (though very familar with Zion slickrock) and both times I've led this 4 quickdraws and a personal anchor were all I needed. Leave the trad gear at home.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Nip and Tuck : Doc's Route (5.7)
By: Sarah Meiser When: May 26, 2011

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Comments: As a fledgling 7 trad and 8 sport leader, I got freaked below the 1st bolt. The #7 stopper placement looked a bit iffy. Backed off and spotted a nice little crack from the ground. Double zero C3 saved the day, I hung on that puppy to test it... beautiful! Absolute comfort cruise from there.


Location: UT : Saint George : Snow Canyon State Park : Island In The Sky : Circus Wall : Barbarian (5.6 R)
By: Sarah Meiser When: Apr 25, 2011

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Comments: As a timid newbie leader I was totally comfortable and I'm glad I didn't see the R here beforehand or I probably wouldn't have tried it. On P2 a few of the huge chicken heads make great pro (double length slings) and I also found some relatively good nut & hex placements.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Kane Springs Canyon : Ice Cream Parlor : Brewed Awakenings (5.5)
By: Sarah Meiser When: Apr 4, 2011

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Comments: Protects well, good beginner lead. Bomber #12 and #13 nut placements. Fun climb.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bihedral Area : The Bihedral (Upper Tier) : A Fly in the Ointment (5.10a)
By: Sarah Meiser When: Mar 28, 2011

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Comments: Entire route seems solid now, looks like everything that could break off did already. Fun, pumpy climb.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Arches National Park : The 100-yard Wall : Nutcracker (5.8)
By: Sarah Meiser When: Nov 8, 2010

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Comments: To toprope the route you can anchor to a tree above the lip but its not that close to the edge and you'd need a very long piece of webbing to keep the rope from scraping over a lot of sandstone. We ended up belaying from the top using the rope to extend the anchor.


Location: UT : Moab Area : 191 South : Wilson Arch : Wilson Arch Regular Route (5.3)
By: Sarah Meiser When: Nov 8, 2010

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Comments: If you plan to rap off the anchors on top a 60 meter rope will just barely get you down.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Arches National Park : The 100-yard Wall : Fledgling (5.4)
By: Sarah Meiser When: Nov 7, 2010

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Comments: On 11/5/10 we found it impossible to get off the ground for this route. At first I thought a hold must have broken loose. However I noticed that the base is all sand and I wonder if pour-off from recent heavy storms dug it out. We may have been able to stack a huge pile of rocks to get started but it didn't seem worth the effort.


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