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Top half of Melifluous


Member Since: Jan 20, 2010
Last Visit: 5 days ago
Contact Sam Stephens


Point Rank: # 786
Total Points: 828
Last Year: 201
Last 30 Days: 0
10 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Sam Stephens been climbing?










Contributions


All 1160 | Routes 49 | Areas 5 | Photos 37 | Page Improvements | Comments 78 | Posts 385 | Stars 561 | Ratings 45
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: WV : The New River Gorge : Summersville and Gauley Riv... : Summersville Lake : The Long Wall : Six Dollars (5.11d)
By: Sam Stephens When: Sep 11, 2013

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Comments: The move to the top is definitely tough, but the placemen of the new anchors in relation to the original anchors (6" lower) makes me believe that if you can clip them from there, then do it.


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Kaymoor : Rico Suave Buttress : Preparation H (5.12a)
By: Sam Stephens When: Aug 19, 2013

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Comments: Great rock, fun movement, good crux. Blows pockets out of the water for sure. If you're there and it's not raining, do this route.


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : Meadow River Gorge : South Side Crags : Area 51 : Instant Gratification (5.11b)
By: Sam Stephens When: Jul 16, 2013

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Comments: A geat route for sure, but no legacy. Worth the trip none the less. A great wam up for the harder routes or just a good ride any time.


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Endless Wall : Snake Buttress : ... : Photo
By: Sam Stephens When: Apr 15, 2013

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Comments: Killbutt shot Joe! F yeah!


Location: WV : Bozoo : Double-Tier Wall : Bone Machine (5.11-)
By: Sam Stephens When: Mar 18, 2013

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Comments: Fun climb, next time I'm in Blacksburg I really need to get back to Bozoo.


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Endless Wall : Flash Point Area : Flash Point (5.11d)
By: Sam Stephens When: Jan 12, 2013

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Comments: The best route at the grade in the Gorge. Constant, varied, sustained but with a few good rests. Not 12a, definitely not compared to any 12a on Endless. Throw a shoulder length sling on the bolt after the leftward traverse and the rope will run fairly good, long runners down low would be nice but not necessary.


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : Meadow River Gorge : Upper Meadow : First Buttress : Black Crack (5.12c)
By: Sam Stephens When: Sep 25, 2012

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Comments: To say I got my ass whooped may be an understatement, but this line is COOL!

Got on the other week and had some pump management issues followed by a dirty crack at the top that I couldn't lock into. Those are my excuses.

Really though, it's hard, but really good.


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Endless Wall : Fern Point - Party Buttress : Premarital Bliss (5.9+)
By: Sam Stephens When: Sep 21, 2012

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Comments: Have fun at the finish!


Location: WV : The New River Gorge
By: Sam Stephens When: Sep 18, 2012

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Comments: I wouldn't do a lot of stuff at Endless with a 50. A bunch of popular routes a 60 barely gets you down. Most routes at Fern a 50 would probably be fine. Take the 60 as your personal item (think purse or small bag) as a carry on if weight is a huge issue. A 60 doesn't add much over a 50 weight wise though in all reality. Carry on your climbing gear if your pack isn't massive too.


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Cotton Top : Intergalactic Orcas (5.12b)
By: Sam Stephens When: Aug 14, 2012

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Comments: Didn't feel like a single move easier than V3 (and mostly V4) after the first bolt... Seriously.


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : Meadow River Gorge : Upper Meadow : Third Buttress : The Prow (5.12b)
By: Sam Stephens When: Jul 22, 2012

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Comments: 11 bolts on it as of today. Some long slings in the slab help drag.


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Bridge Area : Maranatha Area : Agent Orange (5.12a)
By: Sam Stephens When: Jun 25, 2012

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Comments: Managed to bag this after long being intimidated by it. TRd it once three years ago when it was way way above me, took an end of the day run on it the other week and sent in less than optimal temps Sunday. Easily done with 6 pieces that are beyond bomber, plus the fixed nut if you know where to look. I agree the crack may be prone to skating some cams, but the right placements won't allow a cam to skate. Don't be afraid to climb a little instead of placing gear every move and you'll be fine.


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Bridge Area : Bridge Buttress : Marionette (5.11c PG13)
By: Sam Stephens When: Jun 4, 2012

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Comments: Great route, got it second go. Gear down low is definitely nice,but please warn everyone before giving play by play beta of routes. That's a lot of freaking beta.


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : Meadow River Gorge : South Side Crags : The Other Place : All Tiggered Out (5.12a)
By: Sam Stephens When: Apr 16, 2012

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Comments: As of this past weekend (4/14/12) the fixed draw in the first roof doesn't have a bottom biner. A 24" runner is just barely too short to let the rope run out around the roof without a bend in it. The webbing on the fixed draw was stiff but didn't look faded or otherwise worn, some jerk just took the biner.

Cool route with some thought provoking slab moves, a thuggy roof pull, and some easy climbing to a fun finish through another roof. Well worh doing.


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Endless Wall : Hellbound Area : Hellbound for Glory (5.12a)
By: Sam Stephens When: Mar 12, 2012

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Comments: This route was recently re-equipped with new glue ins. Thank you, whoever fixed this.


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Endless Wall : Fantasy Area : New Fangled Dangle (5.11a)
By: Sam Stephens When: Mar 11, 2012

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Comments: I finally got back to do this yesterday, and it went. This is, in my opinion, one of the best corners at the New that I've done and incredibly overlooked. It's a laser cut arching acute corner with an off width roof burl start and an off fingers crack; it's almost every adjective needed to describe a stellar climb.

Beta spoiler follows:







Don't read any further if you value your onsite.







After climbing this my desired rack to do ths again would be:
Single .4 and .5
Triple .... more >>


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : Summersville and Gauley Riv... : Whippoorwill : Don Miron (5.11c)
By: Sam Stephens When: Dec 18, 2011

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Comments: Looks like a foot broke off under the roof a while ago, don't know for certain but there's one move that shut us down pretty hard.


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Endless Wall : Diamond Point : Remission (5.10b)
By: Sam Stephens When: Dec 12, 2011

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Comments: This is an amazing route, and definitely a must do.

A side note, I had to put my dog down this past October (2011) after his cancer came out of remission for the third time. We tossed his ashes off the top of this route as the fog was clearing in the Gorge on a beautiful and crisp morning.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Captain Nemo (5.10d)
By: Sam Stephens When: Aug 22, 2011

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Comments: Did pitch one, nothing but awesome.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : The Diamond : Casual Route (5.10a)
By: Sam Stephens When: Aug 20, 2011

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Comments: Did this with my buddy Jordan the other week. Had a blast. This was how we pitched it out:

From Broadway, Jordan climbed to the base of the 5.9 finger cracks.

I led the 5.7 traverse into the 5.8 squeeze and continued up to the base of the 5.8 corners. Some simul-climbing was involved.

I led the 5.8 corner to the base of the crux pitch (YWBL), some simul-climbing was involved there too, no big deal.

Jordan led the crux pitch to the base of Table Ledge extended

I led the traverse over to Tabl... more >>


Location: MT : Paradise Valley : Allenspur : Main Crag : Climbing Club Route (5.8-)
By: Sam Stephens When: Jul 22, 2011

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Comments: Climbed this today. There's 10 or 12 bolts and chains. There are new blue boundary signs up that are before you get to blood and bolts, this is right directly in line with those signs. Fun route, good movement, and well bolted.


Location: MT : Paradise Valley : Allenspur : Main Crag : Sully's Route (5.10a)
By: Sam Stephens When: Jul 22, 2011

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Comments: One of the absolute best at Allenspur.


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Long Wall : B3 (5.11b PG13)
By: Sam Stephens When: Jun 20, 2011

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Comments: Gear spoiler for the top, plug a green alien size piece at the very bottom of the dihedral before you run to the chains.


Location: VA : Grayson Highlands State Par... : A.V.P. Boulders : A.V.P. Boulder : Front Man (V5)
By: Sam Stephens When: Jun 3, 2011

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Comments: Killer line. Absolutely great.


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Endless Wall : Diamond Point : Leave it to Jesus (5.11c)
By: Sam Stephens When: May 8, 2011

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Comments: This thing is beyond stellar. In your face climbing off the bat leads to slightly easier, but great climbing to a rest. Rest up and get ready to fire the last bit of difficult climbing to the jug rail and enjoy good holds and good feet to the anchors out left.


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