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Location: WV : New River Gorge : North Side : The Bridge Area Crags : South Bridge Area : Agent Orange (5.12a)
By: Sam Stephens When: Jun 25, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Managed to bag this after long being intimidated by it. TRd it once three years ago when it was way way above me, took an end of the day run on it the other week and sent in less than optimal temps Sunday. Easily done with 6 pieces that are beyond bomber, plus the fixed nut if you know where to look. I agree the crack may be prone to skating some cams, but the right placements won't allow a cam to skate. Don't be afraid to climb a little instead of placing gear every move and you'll be fine.
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Location: WV : New River Gorge : North Side : The Bridge Area Crags : Bridge Buttress : Marionette (5.11c PG13)
By: Sam Stephens When: Jun 4, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great route, got it second go. Gear down low is definitely nice,but please warn everyone before giving play by play beta of routes. That's a lot of freaking beta.
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Location: WV : New River Gorge : Meadow River : The Other Place : All Tiggered Out (5.12a)
By: Sam Stephens When: Apr 16, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: As of this past weekend (4/14/12) the fixed draw in the first roof doesn't have a bottom biner. A 24" runner is just barely too short to let the rope run out around the roof without a bend in it. The webbing on the fixed draw was stiff but didn't look faded or otherwise worn, some jerk just took the biner.
Cool route with some thought provoking slab moves, a thuggy roof pull, and some easy climbing to a fun finish through another roof. Well worh doing.
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Location: WV : New River Gorge : North Side : Endless Wall : Diamond Point : Hellbound for Glory (5.12a)
By: Sam Stephens When: Mar 12, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route was recently re-equipped with new glue ins. Thank you, whoever fixed this.
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Location: WV : New River Gorge : North Side : Endless Wall : Fantasy Roof Area : New Fangled Dangle (5.11a)
By: Sam Stephens When: Mar 11, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I finally got back to do this yesterday, and it went. This is, in my opinion, one of the best corners at the New that I've done and incredibly overlooked. It's a laser cut arching acute corner with an off width roof burl start and an off fingers crack; it's almost every adjective needed to describe a stellar climb.
Beta spoiler follows:
Don't read any further if you value your onsite.
After climbing this my desired rack to do ths again would be:
Single .4 and .5
Triple .... more >>
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Location: WV : New River Gorge : Summersville Lake : Whippoorwill : Don Miron (5.11c)
By: Sam Stephens When: Dec 18, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Looks like a foot broke off under the roof a while ago, don't know for certain but there's one move that shut us down pretty hard.
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Location: WV : New River Gorge : North Side : Endless Wall : Diamond Point : Remission (5.10b)
By: Sam Stephens When: Dec 12, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is an amazing route, and definitely a must do.
A side note, I had to put my dog down this past October (2011) after his cancer came out of remission for the third time. We tossed his ashes off the top of this route as the fog was clearing in the Gorge on a beautiful and crisp morning.
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Captain Nemo (5.10d)
By: Sam Stephens When: Aug 22, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Did pitch one, nothing but awesome.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : The Diamond : Casual Route (5.10a)
By: Sam Stephens When: Aug 20, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Did this with my buddy Jordan the other week. Had a blast. This was how we pitched it out:
From Broadway, Jordan climbed to the base of the 5.9 finger cracks.
I led the 5.7 traverse into the 5.8 squeeze and continued up to the base of the 5.8 corners. Some simul-climbing was involved.
I led the 5.8 corner to the base of the crux pitch (YWBL), some simul-climbing was involved there too, no big deal.
Jordan led the crux pitch to the base of Table Ledge extended
I led the traverse over to Tabl... more >>
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Location: MT : Paradise Valley : Allenspur : Main Crag : Climbing Club Route (5.8-)
By: Sam Stephens When: Jul 22, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbed this today. There's 10 or 12 bolts and chains. There are new blue boundary signs up that are before you get to blood and bolts, this is right directly in line with those signs. Fun route, good movement, and well bolted.
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Location: MT : Paradise Valley : Allenspur : Main Crag : Sully's Route (5.10a)
By: Sam Stephens When: Jul 22, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: One of the absolute best at Allenspur.
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Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Long Wall : B3 (5.11b PG13)
By: Sam Stephens When: Jun 20, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Gear spoiler for the top, plug a green alien size piece at the very bottom of the dihedral before you run to the chains.
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Location: VA : Grayson Highlands State Par... : A.V.P. Boulders : A.V.P. Boulder : Front Man (V5)
By: Sam Stephens When: Jun 3, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Killer line. Absolutely great.
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Location: WV : New River Gorge : North Side : Endless Wall : Diamond Point : Leave it to Jesus (5.11c)
By: Sam Stephens When: May 8, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: This thing is beyond stellar. In your face climbing off the bat leads to slightly easier, but great climbing to a rest. Rest up and get ready to fire the last bit of difficult climbing to the jug rail and enjoy good holds and good feet to the anchors out left.
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Location: NC : Looking Glass Rock : Nose Area : Hyperbola (5.10a R)
By: Sam Stephens When: Apr 6, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Did the direct start to this today. If you add in the fear factor I think it bumps up a few letter grades. Stellar route though, no two ways around that. Had an interesting time working out the moves from the second bolt up to the finger crack. Hard tenuous, and scary. Amazing route.
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Location: VA : Grayson Highlands State Par... : Boneyard Area : Left Boneyard : Cap-Gun Boulder : Presidents Problem (V3)
By: Sam Stephens When: Apr 4, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Awkward and fun mantle
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Location: VA : Grayson Highlands State Par... : A.V.P. Boulders : A.V.P. Boulder : Pocket Shot (V1-2)
By: Sam Stephens When: Apr 4, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Toe hook drop knee out high and right off the start is silly fun.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Jackrabbit Buttress : Geronimo (5.6)
By: Sam Stephens When: Mar 28, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'm pretty sure I topped this route out all the way to where there were anchors to rap off of. First pitch was straightforward up the crack to a huge ledge. Second pitch, up the face and crack to a ledge, then head off again bypassing that belay stance to another large ledge. For the third pitch we went up to a left facing corner where I got a belay in a flake with some .75-1 size pieces on a small ledge. After that I headed just a little off to the right from the belay and then straight up the ... more >>
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Location: NC : Rumbling Bald : Flakeview Area : Gift Certificate (5.8)
By: Sam Stephens When: Mar 24, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: As of 3/23 there's a purple TCU stuck on this pitch. Tried to get it out but no luck.
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Location: NC : Rumbling Bald : Flakeview Area : Gunboat Diplomacy (5.10c/d)
By: Sam Stephens When: Mar 24, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Wound up out left of the second to last bolt. Skipped it because I was afraid things were going to start breaking off if I stayed too long. Top is excitingly fragile...
Did it in one mega pitch. Rope got realllll heavy up at the top.
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Location: WV : New River Gorge : North Side : Junk Yard Wall : Team Jesus (5.10a PG13)
By: Sam Stephens When: Mar 21, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Gray DMM Peenut protects the highest part of the crack before the "crux".
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Location: WV : New River Gorge : Meadow River : Sunkist Wall : Arachniphobia (5.9)
By: Sam Stephens When: Mar 21, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Rap slings on trees at the top. Please inspect all webbing and cord before trusting it though, rats have been suspected of chewing some webbing in the area.
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Location: NC : Rumbling Bald : Cereal Buttress : Fruit Loops (5.7+)
By: Sam Stephens When: Mar 5, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I thought the second pitch was way more fun than the first pitch. It's definitely worth doing. I just ran the whole thing into one long pitch
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Location: NC : Rumbling Bald : Cereal Buttress : Obamanation (5.8)
By: Sam Stephens When: Mar 2, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Did the first pitch of this today. A bat flew out of the crack below the tree and almost hit my girlfriend in the face. Fun moves out the roof for sure.
Thought the roof moves felt like 5.9, only because there were no discernible feet when I came out the roof except for one dime edge.
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Location: NC : Rumbling Bald : Dixie Reality : Dixie Reality (5.12)
By: Sam Stephens When: Feb 21, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Any beta on finding this thing? Didn't notice it on my way to hanging chain yesterday.
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