Aug 24, 2023 · 1 pitch. Lead. Double rack was adequate.
Placed a couple nuts, cams would have worked.
We used a 55m rope.
P1- right facing flake takes gear well, PG- until you hit R-rated slab. 60m to bolted anchor.
Slab is very run out. I would argue x rated.
P2- lead up left on slab, look for pocket, then
Move 15’ up to ledge look for low crack pro. Trend right from ledge toward top of right leaning crack and bush. One hidden pocket to be found. Then move up and over tree bulge to Easy ground, make moves for about 30 feet before Moving back to slab, run out but easier than previous to chain anchor, 60m.
P3. Move through easy territory with marginal
Protection at times up the crack towards the roof., belay below the roof. We broke this up due to short rope. Might have reached
P4- start of the left of the 3 cracks. Head left up the crack till it starts running thin, look for option to go right to center chimney crack. I went right about 20’ before the crack ended and it was scary as hell. Completely unprotected traverse with step into chimney hoping to not slide to my death. I worked up chimney about 25 more feet easy climbing to a pod below a small bulge, maybe one of the 5.7 bulges talked about in others notes.
P5. Lead up over bulge straight for another 100 feet to another belay opportunity. There are a few sections where the crack is less than positive and gear is not as good as you would hope. Small section of flared 5.7 climbing.
P6- yes the crack continues. Climb another 40m of crack to the 5.7 bulge, crack quality of this pitch improves both in quality and placements. When crack runs out at bulge move right, I clipped bolts at this point x3 then moved back left on thin flake into a pod and built a belay on a small ledge.
P7- move up to bottom of s cracks and left hand traverse. #4 was good here. Awesome position fun traverse. Climb cracks and flakes in s fashion. We built another belay about 15m up s cracks on decent ledge.
.P8- go up s cracks till the summit scramble.
Trad 8 pitches