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The Shield


Member Since: Apr 9, 2006
Last Visit: 13 hours ago
Contact Sam Lightner, Jr.


Point Rank: # 240
Total Points: 2,205
Last Year: 112
Last 30 Days: 3
141 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Sam Lightner, Jr. been climbing?










Sam Lightner, Jr.

 
Contributions

Contributions


All 1409 | Routes 67 | Areas 26 | Photos 183 | Page Improvments | Comments 230 | Posts 833 | Stars 70 | Ratings
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : South Sixshooter : South Face (5.6) : Photo
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Apr 24, 2008

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Comments: I forgot the other link to hold them together... so I used the one that was on the anchor I removed. The link is there to keep the longer chain from blowing in the wind and marring the rock. I'm trying to do all of the anchors this way now.
Thanks for the support.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : South Sixshooter : South Face (5.6) : Photo
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Apr 23, 2008

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Comments: To each his own, but "was" was 200 feet of tat wrapped around a boulder on a sloping ledge that was getting grooved out because of the angle of the pull and that tended to force the rope into said groves or into a crack.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Bridger Jacks : Aging Salesman (5.11+ PG13)
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Apr 2, 2008

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Comments: After coming back to this route following an ascent of Wildflower, I have added a star. Its a two star route. However, if you compare it to Powders or Wildflower, its a four star route. My stars are compared to other routes NOT on Bridger Jack Butte. This is probably the second best route on the Butte... which tells you something about this rock.

The only people who rappel Wildflower now should be King of Pain ascenders and bailers. This is definately the best rap route. The chains are just bel... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Bridger Jacks : Wild Flower (5.10a)
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Apr 2, 2008

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Comments: WIthout question the third pitch of this thing is harder than Vision Quest. Ten-a is a complete sandbag.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Moab Rim Area : Disappearing Angel : Disappearing Angel (5.8 C1)
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Mar 25, 2008

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Comments: I was updating the anchor this morning and I suffered a loss. After drilling the first hole, I absentmindedly clipped my drill into the wrong piece of sling on the anchor... it was only tied in with an overhand or something. Anyway, Hanoi-Hilti-II took the 100 footer. He is no more.
So, there is one 1/2 inch by 4 inch stainless with chain at the anchor... it works with the ratty slings and is certainly stronger than the 1/4 inch stardrive and baby angle that is the previous anchor.

The route i... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : South Sixshooter : South Face (5.6)
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Mar 15, 2008

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Comments: The rappels have been updated. The second one, from the top of the second pitch to the ground, is a true 31 meters. That is to say, your feet will be on the ground and the the rope will pull through the device when you are done. A true 60 meter rope is perfect... a rope that has a had a few meters cut off will leave you with a short drop.

This anchor WAS about 250 feet of tat, some of it probably 20 years old, strung around decaying boulders on a decaying ledge. Its now two half inch bolts in o... more >>


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Walt's Wall : Fourth Of July Crack (Hard ... (5.12a)
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Mar 8, 2008

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Comments: It was late 70's for Paul and Todd. I believe it was considered the hardest rock climb in Wyoming at the time.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Bridger Jacks : Aging Salesman (5.11+ PG13)
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Mar 7, 2008

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Comments: It was hard to believe someone hadn't been there before... now we know you were. I also did not get the free ascent. Josh and I got on this thing last year after he and Zach had begun working it and abandoned it like 5 years ago. Josh and I got to the summit, but I fell in t he stemming corner and he fell going out the right side of the roof. Those guys went back last week and finished it up cleanly.

The name stems from Josh. Zach came up with it. Josh is continuously sellinig us on his routes,... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Moab Rim Area : Moab Rim Trail Towers : Super Seam (5.10+ A3 PG13)
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Mar 1, 2008

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Comments: I intended to take this line to the summit of the butte/knob. However, about 75 feet up, where it looked like the crack opened, it actually closed down and the seam filled with sand. It could be done, but for me it would require a lot of bolts. Maybe the super-aid guys, like Chris Kalous, could pull it off.
As per the rating, I really don't know how to rate aid. The pins might catch you and they might not... its hard to know unless you fall on them. However, I can say that hanging on peckers on ... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Arches National Park : Park Avenue : Candelabrum-Hall of Flame (5.11d A2)
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Feb 27, 2008

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Comments: Kalous and I did this thing yesterday. Nice day in the desert, but I think two stars is generous. The place is beautiful, as are almost all towers in Arches, but the climbing is not too good.
We cleaned up the years of tat. The rap on the back side makes it to the ledge so barely that you actually drop the last foot... this means you need to hang on to the pulling side of the rope cus it flies up about 10 feet above you when you drop away (stretch).
Soft first pitch is decievingly hard. Mid pitc... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Tusher Canyon : Monitor and Merrimac Buttes : Monitor Butte, The Plunge (5.7 A2)
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Feb 22, 2008

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Comments: A big "NO" to electric drills.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Tusher Canyon : Monitor and Merrimac Buttes : Monitor Butte, The Plunge (5.7 A2)
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Feb 22, 2008

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Comments: You are probably right and my comment is probably wrong. I thought they were also opposed to fixed anchors... which I am for. I'm gonna look it up.
I'm back
Well, what I found was that SUWA doens't come out and say anything about climbing speicifically, but they do seem to take a view of wilderness being somethign you look at and don't touch. I foudn a number of instances where they grouped us all together like this:
" Drill rigs, bulldozers, off-road vehicles (ORVs) and even hikers are pushing ... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Tusher Canyon : Monitor and Merrimac Buttes : Monitor Butte, The Plunge (5.7 A2)
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Feb 21, 2008

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Comments: Steve... dont throw out the baby with the bath water. The SUWA would just as soon get rid of us as they would the clowns ho made that mess. This probelm is being addressed by the BLM with their new Recreation Management Plan.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Tusher Canyon : Monitor and Merrimac Buttes : Monitor Butte, The Plunge (5.7 A2)
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Feb 19, 2008

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Comments: Silly Boy Brad... Those aren't Jeep Tracks, they are Sand Circles, the desert equivelant to Iowa Crop Circles.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Arches National Park : Devil's Golf Ball : Regular Route (5.9 A2-)
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Feb 15, 2008

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Comments: The anchor is a little hard to find... its on the back side and goes of the south face. Bomber. Big bolts and chain.
I would call this thing 5.10-,C1, but I would add that the move at the start to get to the hand crack is spicy. No way to get anything in and the fall is substantial. Once you get to the crack, its mostly hands and wide fingers with good footholds... till the bolt ladder.


Location: UT : Joe's Valley : Ice : Spear of Fear (WI5 PG13)
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Feb 8, 2008

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Comments: Kelly Chamberlain and I did this today. The slog in, even with snow shoes, was horrendous. Should be better for the next party. The Pillar is in WI5 or so conditions... gear is real sparse on the cauliflowering and some big pieces did break. Approaching the pillar is getting thin in one spot. From the looks of the snow pack at the top I was guessing no one had been there this year... if so, it was a while ago. Not to many people make the trip to this canyon, so you get it to yourself. Get there ... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Wall Street
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Jan 8, 2008

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Comments: Hey John.
A lot of those routes got put up before the mandate on petroglyphs was issued. The rule is now closer than 50 feet, I believe. We would be wise to heed it.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : Cottontail Tower : West Side Story (5.9 C3)
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Oct 17, 2007

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Comments: When I looked at it I thought the correct thing to do was to have another party rap down Road Kill and equip it with chains. I believe Brad B and Ben K. did that and had no problems. It would be nice if the next party used chains... I will provide it for you if you want to do this.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Castleton Tower
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Oct 16, 2007

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Comments: The lower-rappel anchor on the Kor INgalls is now chain and half inch bolts. Two rappels with double 60's get you down.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : Cottontail Tower : West Side Story (5.9 C3)
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Oct 16, 2007

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Comments: Paul, the anchor was placed there because that is roughly the place the first ascentionist placed theirs. Its a very bad pull, but we did not want to alter the route.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Arches National Park : The Three Penguins : Right Chimney (5.10+)
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Oct 10, 2007

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Comments: The Arches Task Force and the ASCA have now replaced the anchor on top with chain and two half inch bolts. The route can be rapped, I think, with a 70 meter rope... A single sixty puts you about 10 feet off the ledge.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Castleton Tower
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Sep 28, 2007

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Comments: On the 26th of September Kimmyyyyyy Jacobs and I completed the cleanup and backup of the North Face anchors. We dragged a bunch of chain up and the big 1/2 inch steel snippers. We removed the old chain and equalized the stuff I dragged up there last spring. ON that previous job the drill broke down so I wasn't able to add the stainless bolts. All anchors now have at least 1 stainless halfie with the chain. The old chain was probably good for a few more years (though it was rusted together), but... more >>


Location: CO : Hubers - Nose Record Update...
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Sep 21, 2007

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Comments: Did they clip the bolt they added on The Nose that they said doesn't change it at all but for some reason still needed to be there?


Location: WY : Grand Teton National Park : Death Canyon : Omega Buttress : Omega Crack (5.12b)
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Sep 7, 2007

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Comments: This is the best rock climb in the Tetons. It is perhaps the steepest crack I have ever been on. That being the case, rappellling down it with only one 60 would be horrid. If you go to the top your partner has to go to the top as well.


Location: WY : Swift Creek Canyon : Swift Creek Spire
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Jul 29, 2007

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Comments: Kyle Mills and I were back here yesterday. I had forgotten how pretty the canyon is and how good these routes are. They are a bit sharp and there is the odd bit of gravely stuff that will come off cus we are the only people to have ever free climbed ont he tower (ergo each route has had a total of 4 ascents). This means there is almost no chalk, so flashing is gonna be hard. However, once the routes are climbed a few times they will be uber-classics.


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