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The Shield


Member Since: Apr 9, 2006
Last Visit: 18 hours ago
Contact Sam Lightner, Jr.


Point Rank: # 225
Total Points: 2,202
Last Year: 112
Last 30 Days: 1
137 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas are worth 15
Routes are worth 10
Photos are worth 5
Comments are worth 1



Where has Sam Lightner, Jr. been climbing?










Sam Lightner, Jr.

 
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All (1404) | Routes (67) | Areas (26) | Photos (183) | Comments (227) | Posts (831) | Stars (70) | Ratings
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Moab Area : Mill Creek : The Sunny Side : Grateful He's Dead (5.10+ PG13)
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Nov 19, 2008

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Comments: You ladies stop squibbling.
They did suck. They were fun becasue they were good drug dealers, but as musicians, well, I think they only had one song where they actually tried to play as compnents to a band... everything else was a hippie jam fest.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : Cottontail Tower : West Side Story (5.9 C3)
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Oct 26, 2008

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Comments: Had I known I would have done Roadkill anchors. As is, it is a hard pull. Here is what we can do. The next person up can take a hand drill and a 1/2 inch bolt. ITs only about 30 minutes to drill the hole. I will provide the hardware, including the chains (we need chains folks). This will get ROadkill set up for the long haul and get the tat down that is so visible. Anyone planning on doing these towers should drop me a line... I"ll provide the gear.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Arches National Park : Devil Dog Spire : Industrial Disease (5.11+ PG13)
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Sep 15, 2008

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Comments: Some tidbits from Industrial Disease

"Warning lights are flashing down at quality control..

Somewhere in the corridors someone was heard to sneeze.
Goodness me, could this be industrial disease?


The watchdogs got rabies, the foremans got fleas,
And everyones concerned about industrial disease.

Some blame the management, some the employees,
And everybody knows its the industrial disease


On itv and bbc they talk about the curse,
Philosophy is useless, theology is worse.
History boils over,... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Arches National Park : Devil Dog Spire : Industrial Disease (5.11+ PG13)
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Sep 12, 2008

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Comments: I thought it was 11+, as did Jason Lantz, my partner. Perhapsit lost a bit of its veneer and thus is harder to get friction on.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Wall Street : Room With A View (A2+)
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Sep 7, 2008

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Comments: Stym... what the hell are you talking about?
I have no idea how you could take what I wrote as a critique of you and your methods.
I believe aid lines are absolutely legitimate. I do it all the time and know that aid is the means to getting up 90% of the most proud lines in the world when they were first done.
I didn't know 06 was the year, but so what... old was just a guess cus I never see anyone aiding on Potash anymore.
FYI, the line doesn't cross over it a few times... it follows it.
What ... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Wall Street : Room With A View (A2+)
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Aug 5, 2008

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Comments: I just got off the phone with Josh and I think he misunderstood this. These guys were just freeing an old aid line... nothing for us all to get our panties in a wad for. The line looks really good (for Potash) and when they get it cleaned up I'm gonna be first in line.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Arches National Park : Argon Tower : West Face (5.11) : Photo
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Jul 11, 2008

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Comments: Hey David
"So, you are telling me that standing on the hangers at this belay for this climb is a form of aiding, and that one cannot (reasonably) do the first few moves without standing on these hangers?"
See, my comment still stands. Yes. Standing on hangers in the desert is aid and is commonly done. This ladder was probablyeven put in that way. Also, free climbing here changes season to season due to the softness of the rock. ONe mans edge is another mans smear is the next guys color change.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Castleton Tower : Photo
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Jul 1, 2008

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Comments: Maybe. Maybe. You dont know if it will unscrew... the old bolts are not stainless and usually after 3 or 4 years there is too much corrosion to get the oldies out. SO, we brought the tool rather than risk it. I would be very surprised if those things would unscrew.


Location: WY : Grand Teton National Park : Death Canyon : Cathedral Buttress : Aerial Boundaries (5.10b)
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Jun 24, 2008

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Comments: Hey ANdy... I get no credit for the F.A. on this thing... though I'd like to. I did it after it had been established with Newc. I think Greg put this up with Mike Fisher.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Arches National Park : Argon Tower : West Face (5.11) : Photo
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Jun 13, 2008

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Comments: " In my worst day I do not stand on bolts or anchors."

I"d say that shows a lack of experience in this climbing environment.


Location: UT : Moab Area : 191 South : Hole in the Rock Area : Smoot Route (5.9 A2+ R)
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Jun 13, 2008

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Comments: OK, in the interest of getting this correct I have added a route that was thought to be the first one put on the Seraph page by Todd G. As Brad B mentioned, at least according to the book and F.A. info, the route submitted by Todd and Matt Pickeren and Bill Grasse was for a different route. This description fits with what the Smoots described as their route.

This thing is soft. Its scary. The slab at the start has dire consequences if you slip and no single piece seems that good.

I removed the... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Wall : Which One's Pink? (5.11-) : Photo
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Jun 11, 2008

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Comments: "beyond ridiculous"????
I think you are referring to me and I would very much like to here you explain how, in 100 years, rock climbers route names on rocks would be viewed beyond ridiculous when compared to cowboys, Indians, and settlers carving their 'whatever' on the rock.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Wall : Comfortably Numb (5.10)
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Jun 11, 2008

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Comments: I think Kalous, AKA The SAG, did the F.A.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Wall : Which One's Pink? (5.11-) : Photo
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Jun 9, 2008

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Comments: Most people hold the Ute and the Old Cowboys in high honor cus they were a long time ago... if you were alive then, they would just be doing graffiti.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Wall : Which One's Pink? (5.11-) : Photo
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Jun 7, 2008

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Comments: I believe this to be a nice bit of AMerican climbing culture. The fact that it is done in a place famous for its rock etchings is really cool. No Allen, I don't subscribe to the idea that everyone should do this everyplace, but I think its pretty cool that its done here in the desert. One hundred years from now people will look at the walls and see Fremont culture, Ute culture, the odd cowboy culture, and then us.... thats kinda cool.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Long Canyon : Longs Canyon Tower : The Tiff (5.10a C2- PG13)
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: May 25, 2008

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Comments: Here is the deal with this...
Jason and I saw an anchor about 60 feet up on this tower. We decided to try the route... its a really solid bolt ladder. However, when we go on the second pitch we saw no sign that anyone had ever been there. Lots of loose rock needed to be cleaned away, no fixed anchors (unlike the first pitch), and generally soft and loose up high. We needed a couple of fixed pieces to do it. We both figure there are lots of climbers out there who could have climbed the route with... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Kane Springs Canyon : Fickle Finger of Fate : Moonwalker (5.9 C1+)
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: May 15, 2008

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Comments: Powerful Jim has been climbing around here since the Colorado Plateau was a coastline. He was completely shocked about how easy they snapped... you were on A5 dude, you just didn't know it.


Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Escalante Canyon : Photo
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: May 5, 2008

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Comments: Nice venom glands. Sexy.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Tusher Canyon : The Academy : Alternative Education (5.8 PG13)
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: May 1, 2008

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Comments: Damn autofill... ok, its one or three pitches... depending on how you plan to get to it and down from it.
Don't test me John! Its 7:06 and I've been in the bottle!!!

thats one of those LOL things.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Tusher Canyon : The Academy : Hot For Teacher (5.9)
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Apr 30, 2008

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Comments: I actually went up on this tower hoping to find some hidden slot with a few cool cracks... the mirrors of the cracks that are on its front side. What I found was what I think will be a great route for aspiring tower climbers. ITs got short pitchs, its relatively solid, and the climbing is pretty easy. It definately gets you to a summit.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Kane Springs Canyon : Fickle Finger of Fate : Moonwalker (5.9 C1+)
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Apr 26, 2008

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Comments: Powerful Jim and I did this thing yesterday. We had been told by a friend that the 1/4 inch studs were sketchy... his partner broke one under body weight. For this reason we went prepared to replace some. I tested the first one off the ledge and it snapped-off on the first tug... dido second one. I was then able to break every studd (Funkenss just broke them) with less than three taps of the hammer. Not whacks, taps. We ended up replacing all the studs with 3.8 studs and a couple of halfies to k... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : South Sixshooter : South Face (5.6) : Photo
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Apr 25, 2008

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Comments: Thanks Nate... you need to look me up when your down here next.
Beagle, whoever you are, I promise that when I am done replacing anchors in various places, there will still be ten times that many left that you can go out and risk your ass, leave behind excessive amounts of equipment that will break down in 4 months, and that land managers and non climbers find offensive. Enjoy them... they will be here for as long as we will.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : South Sixshooter : South Face (5.6) : Photo
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Apr 24, 2008

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Comments: I forgot the other link to hold them together... so I used the one that was on the anchor I removed. The link is there to keep the longer chain from blowing in the wind and marring the rock. I'm trying to do all of the anchors this way now.
Thanks for the support.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : South Sixshooter : South Face (5.6) : Photo
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Apr 23, 2008

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Comments: To each his own, but "was" was 200 feet of tat wrapped around a boulder on a sloping ledge that was getting grooved out because of the angle of the pull and that tended to force the rope into said groves or into a crack.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Bridger Jacks : Aging Salesman (5.11+ PG13)
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Apr 2, 2008

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Comments: After coming back to this route following an ascent of Wildflower, I have added a star. Its a two star route. However, if you compare it to Powders or Wildflower, its a four star route. My stars are compared to other routes NOT on Bridger Jack Butte. This is probably the second best route on the Butte... which tells you something about this rock.

The only people who rappel Wildflower now should be King of Pain ascenders and bailers. This is definately the best rap route. The chains are just bel... more >>


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