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The Shield


Member Since: Apr 9, 2006
Last Visit: 3 days ago
Contact Sam Lightner, Jr.


Point Rank: # 243
Total Points: 2,210
Last Year: 115
Last 30 Days: 5
148 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Sam Lightner, Jr. been climbing?










Sam Lightner, Jr.

 
Contributions

Contributions


All 1414 | Routes 67 | Areas 26 | Photos 184 | Page Improvements | Comments 230 | Posts 837 | Stars 70 | Ratings
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Long Canyon : Longs Canyon Tower
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Mar 30, 2009

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Comments: Sorry Peter, i dont remember seeing it.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Island In The Sky : Monster Tower : North Ridge (5.11)
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Mar 27, 2009

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Comments: Monster Towers anchors are on the schedule to be redone by the ASCA. We are waiting for a permit from the Park Service. All indications are we will have it by Fall. Til then, rappel lightly.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Little Valley : The Bride : Shotgun Wedding (5.11 A1+ R)
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Mar 26, 2009

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Comments: The "X" was in mention of the runout in the chimney, which is not an easy chimney by anyones standards.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Wall Street : Fernando (5.11b)
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Mar 16, 2009

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Comments: No way on the Mama-mia.... I am a purest. i go with the original albums.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Wall Street : Fernando (5.11b)
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Mar 13, 2009

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Comments: There are two kinds of people in this world; those who love ABBA, and those who lie and say they don't.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Spring Canyon : Plumb Tower : Low Hanging Fruit (5.11 C2)
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Mar 9, 2009

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Comments: Nicely done Brad.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : Kingfisher : Death Of American Democracy (5.10 A4 X)
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Mar 9, 2009

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Comments: Make sure you climb flawlessly and all will go well.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Lockhart Basin : Amazon Tower : Amazon Tower - Original Rou... (5.11a A1+)
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Mar 4, 2009

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Comments: I have an opinion on this boys, and it is of course the best one.
The area should be called Anticline Road. Yes there are other ways to reach the Tower, but using the Anticline Road by far makes the most sense. There are other towers and crags being developed out the Anticline as well and having it as a route name would encompass them... Enchanted Mesa, the thing I did with The SAG last year, etc.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Lockhart Basin : Amazon Tower : Amazon Tower - Original Rou... (5.11a A1+)
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Feb 23, 2009

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Comments: This is a cool tower. The register on top only had the firsty's in it, though I think Ralph and Nate climbed it.

To find the thing go to the road that loops around the butte about a mile from the end of the Anticline road (this will make sense when you get there. Park 3/4 of the way around the loop and walk south by southwest to the rim. The hand drawn map above shows the tower being at what you could call the 12:00 from the loop road. Actually, its at the 9:00.

Brad B. and I put a new rout up... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : The Titan : Sundevil Chimney (5.9 A3)
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Jan 20, 2009

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Comments: Good job Jesse. ITs leaving shit like that around that creates Access problems. Thank you for removing a problem before it became one.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Hell Roaring Canyon : The Kachina Spires : Beyond the 80th Meridian (5.10a C2 R) : Photo
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Dec 23, 2008

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Comments: I dont think I'd hang my hat on that blue alien.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Hell Roaring Canyon : The Witch : Midnight Rider (5.11+) : Photo
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Dec 10, 2008

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Comments: Yeah, thats me. I had surgery a month ago and got to toss the crutches yesterday.
If the 5th piece had blown it would have been a lot worse cus I think I would have hit the ledge right of the belay. You would need a helicopter to get out of there.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Photo
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Dec 10, 2008

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Comments: Brad, that is awesome. Seriously. I need a lesson in whatever you did here.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Hell Roaring Canyon : The Witch : Midnight Rider (5.11+) : Photo
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Dec 10, 2008

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Comments: Some asshole made these boys take a drill and 20 pounds of chain up there to get rid of the tat anchors and 20 year old steel. They got it half right.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Hell Roaring Canyon : The Witch : Midnight Rider (5.11+)
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Dec 10, 2008

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Comments: Very good info Brad.
EDIT = I think its safe to call this a serious tower route. THe crux pitch seems easy to protect, but I have proven that what seems like a good cam may not be. The inside of the crack is slightly different in size from the outside, so you have to really pay attention to the placements. It would seem that blue metolius, green aliens, and .5 wildcountry are the same size, but the wildcountry stuff seems to be best.
Pitch 3 is no giveaway... you blow, it might leave a mark.
So... more >>


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : The Central Scrutinizer (5.11)
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Dec 9, 2008

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Comments: Yeah, we listened to Zappa's Joes Garage a lot at that time. It was also about this time that Tipper Gore was pushing for the ratings on albums and Zappa and Dee Snyder were the guys who testified to Congress.
The Central Scrutinizer narrates the album and "enforces all the laws that haven't been passed yet."


Location: SD : Custer State Park : Tenpins/Switchbacks : Hairy Pin : Cleveland Route (5.10+ X) : Photo
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Dec 9, 2008

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Comments: A-ha... well, I found the picture in storage. My big ticks on that trip were Hariy and the Thimble after tr-ing it (woos). I wasn't sure what route this was or what pin even. Thanks for the clarification. IT makes sense that its the Tricouni cus I also have a shot of my partner and I rapping form the summit...
I can remember thinking on top of Hairy Pin that 10 seemed really low. It was scary, but not that scary.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Long Canyon : The Shipyard
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Dec 2, 2008

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Comments: Erosion is part of us climbing... its par for the course.


Location: CO : Oil and Gas in Moab
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Nov 28, 2008

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Comments: I'm not sure why you guy's are missing this. The point isn't "Don't drill". I'm all for natural gas (personally, I don't speak for MACA there) and I know we need it. However, there are places we could leave it in the ground and call it our strategic reserve that we go to when times are really tough. This is one of those place. Drill for natural gas? Fine. Just not in these specific spots.
Again, not opposed to seeking the natural resources that all of us use. Just opposed to it here.


Location: CO : Oil and Gas in Moab
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Nov 27, 2008

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Comments: Hey Gang,
Everyone needs to be aware that the areas north of Moab are still on the block. It looks pretty good for Big Bend, though they aren't in the clear yet. However, Tusher, Courthouse, and Hell Roaring are still to be sold.

Trey and Rick. Uhm, well, it does not actually tear down a climbing feature. However, I think most of us feel that bulldozers creating platforms, burn-off flares doing their thing, and the general truck and heavy equipment traffic is counter to what we look for in t... more >>


Location: WY : Grand Teton National Park : Blacktail Butte : Lower Blacktail Butte : Do the Right Thing (5.11c)
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Nov 22, 2008

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Comments: Actually not me. It was first bolted by Joe Sotile. However, it had been an established top rope for years before hand... Rex Hong first on that.


Location: WY : Grand Teton National Park : Blacktail Butte : Lower Blacktail Butte : The Arch (5.12a)
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Nov 22, 2008

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Comments: Actually, I did the F.A. on this. Rex of course could have gotten it but he gave the route to me. Nice of him.


Location: WY : Grand Teton National Park : Blacktail Butte : Lower Blacktail Butte : Waterstreak (5.12b)
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Nov 22, 2008

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Comments: First ascent was Rex Hong.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : South Sixshooter : South Face (5.6)
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Nov 21, 2008

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Comments: I agree with Josh on this on all points. I wonder more about lightning or some weakness geologically that was exacerbated in the two storm cycles we had this fall. There is a theory that the white lines we can see streaking haphazardly down the towers are from lightning running down the surface... its only a matter of time before an anchor gets hit... but this is just speculation. Whats important is that everyone get the word out. Also, unless someone wants to volunteer I will try and fix it whe... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : South Sixshooter : South Face (5.6)
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Nov 19, 2008

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Comments: OK Gang, Angie was there so we know how it is. The hole for one of the two half inch bolts was somehow compromized in the last few weeks. All I can figure is the the thunderstorms this summer let a huge amount of water into the hole and that maybe the anchor took a lightning strike... I can only tell you all was solid last spring (as numerous ascents since have proven).
This is to be expected sometimes in bolts placed vertically in sandstone. I am currently laid up and thus cannot get up the... more >>


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