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The Shield


Member Since: Apr 9, 2006
Last Visit: 3 days ago
Contact Sam Lightner, Jr.


Point Rank: # 243
Total Points: 2,210
Last Year: 115
Last 30 Days: 5
148 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Sam Lightner, Jr. been climbing?










Sam Lightner, Jr.

 
Contributions

Contributions


All 1414 | Routes 67 | Areas 26 | Photos 184 | Page Improvements | Comments 230 | Posts 837 | Stars 70 | Ratings
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Moab Area : Island In The Sky : Washer Woman : In Search Of Suds (5.10+)
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Oct 20, 2009

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Comments: The description above is incorrectly worded for the rappels. You DO NOT rap through the arch. You rap DOWN the arch or INTO the arch. If you go through it, as in from the west side pass through the notch to the east side, you are off the rappel route. There is an anchor at the base of the arch, but its best to continue, on double ropes, down about 60 more feet to a chain anchor on the left. From here double sixties reach a ledge just barely above the base .


Location: WY : Grand Teton National Park : Cascade Canyon : Guide's Wall (5.8)
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Aug 23, 2009

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Comments: The Rappels descend from chains, trending rappers right to a large tree, then trending right to another smaller tree, then hard right to chains you pass on pitch 2... that gets you to the ground. THe top anchor has had one of the 1/4's replaced with a stainless 3/8. You need double ropes to use only these raps.

Oh, if you want to link the mid pitches together you don't have to have a 70, but you do have to use every inch of a 60. Set your belay in the notch at the base of the fingercrack rather... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Onion Creek : Mystery Towers & Top of the... : Gothic Nightmare : ... : Photo
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Aug 6, 2009

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Comments: I love that we can see how fast the towers erode. I showed pictures of this to the park service in ARches and they were blown away... I think it helped them to recognize that erosion takes out our anchors really fast. SOme of the entrada seems like it disappears at about an inch every few years. A real inch, not an inch as I like to define it (roughly this long _______).


Location: UT : Moab Area : Hell Roaring Canyon : The Warlock : Wings of Leather (5.11 C0 PG13)
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Jul 30, 2009

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Comments: A Dispute:
I was under the opinion that in honor of the heroine of Harry Potter, we were going to call this "Hermione Grangers Hatchet Wound" or "Hermione Grangers Lucky Broom", but Mr. Brandewie apparently veto-ed. This sad excuse of a name stems from bat who fell out of the crack (as Matt climbed past him) and only unfolded one wing, thus spun his way to the belay ledge and into the chimney. Thats a lousy way to wake up from a 3 month sleep.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Lockhart Basin : Amazon Tower : Four Peckers and an Amazon (5.10+ A2+ R)
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Jul 30, 2009

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Comments: Edit:
I have rethunk it and decided that the nasty choss filled black hole of a chimney on the second pitch consumed one of the original stars. Despite all the laughing about using the deathblock, this route only deserves one star. That star is for the first pitch... and the emotions the death block will stir up in everyone who does it.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Lockhart Basin : Amazon Tower : Four Peckers and an Amazon (5.10+ A2+ R) : Photo
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Jul 27, 2009

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Comments: Thats just it, Paul, we couldn't. So we used it. THe thing looks like it should tip right off, like the Amoeba or the Car Door, but it stays even when you yard on it.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Lockhart Basin : Amazon Tower : Four Peckers and an Amazon (5.10+ A2+ R) : Photo
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Jul 24, 2009

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Comments: Sadly, the Brett Favre analogy is fitting. Not only does he have the record for the most touchdowns of all time, but also the most interceptions. You got Brett on a good day.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Lockhart Basin : Amazon Tower : Four Peckers and an Amazon (5.10+ A2+ R) : Photo
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Jul 24, 2009

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Comments: Brad, I thought it was a 1 star route til we got to the block... we laughed a very long time about the fact that you HAVE to use that block.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Lockhart Basin : Amazon Tower : Amazon Tower - Original Rou... (5.11a A1+)
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Jul 22, 2009

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Comments: I love climbing with you guys... I"m laughing my ass off in a coffee shop right now.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Lockhart Basin : Amazon Tower : Amazon Tower - Original Rou... (5.11a A1+)
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Jul 20, 2009

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Comments: Its like 40 feet... pretty much level.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : Cottontail Tower : Brer Rabbit (5.11b A3+ R) : Photo
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Jul 17, 2009

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Comments: Yet another pitch of FREE CLIMBING where Brad makes no upward progress?


Location: International : Asia : Thailand : Laem Phra Nang (Railey and ... : Tonsai Bay : Photo
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Jul 11, 2009

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Comments: I wonder the date. The outfit is for-sure 80's, but the equipment wasn't invented until well into the 90's. Someone was in a Wardrobe Timewarp.


Location: WY : Grand Teton National Park : Mount Moran : South Buttress Right, Mt. M... (5.11)
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Jul 11, 2009

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Comments: A few thoughts:

The crux felt like 11c to me, but it was wet. COnsidering this is normal, I'd go 11c. I didn't have any, but blue aliens or gray metolius would have worked great. THe scars are not deep.

The traverse pitch is amazing.

The bolts on the last pitch are there for mental support and its solid 5.10 slab. Be careful.

The top rap or two descends to the right. Don't get sucked into continually going towards the falls as the stations get worse and worse until the are balanced blocks on... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Island In The Sky : Standing Rock : Photo
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Jul 9, 2009

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Comments: Layton Kor said of "why" for this thing: "Because it might not be there much longer." It actually looks like its tipping over in the photo.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : Cottontail Tower : Brer Rabbit (5.11b A3+ R) : Photo
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Jul 8, 2009

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Comments: Of course... it the standard desert legend of "Jimmy/Earl threw a rope over it once and toproped up the backside." Names are interchangeable.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : Cottontail Tower : Brer Rabbit (5.11b A3+ R) : Photo
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Jul 5, 2009

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Comments: THe Duck is in there.


Location: AL : Sand Rock : Sun Wall : Dreamscape (5.11c/d)
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Jun 30, 2009

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Comments: Excellent... cool looking over the top. Fun movement, different techniques.


Location: AL : Sand Rock : Holiday Block : Never Believe (5.11b)
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Jun 30, 2009

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Comments: And make that 11c.


Location: AL : Sand Rock
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Jun 29, 2009

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Comments: I just went to Sand Rock for the first time last weekend. Its not pure and isolated, but it is very good climbing. I'll go back.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : North Six Shooter Peak : Photo
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Jun 20, 2009

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Comments: Thats Bold.
There are chicks on here and they report that shit on the chick-network.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Arches National Park : The Wishbone : North Face (The Wishbone) (5.8 A2+)
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Jun 18, 2009

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Comments: I'm no Matt P., so I thought those opening moves were pretty sketchy on tiny cams... Flared and soft. I went to the right and free climbed to reach the upper crack which I consider solid C2.
The height of the tower is 100 feet considering how my sixty was not on the ground when equalized.
Use the Primitive trail to reach the tower, not the main trail.
I replaced on pice and added chain. You might want to take a quicklink to replace the locking biner at the top.
Dogs make better pets than cats.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Supercrack Buttress : Coyne Crack (5.12a)
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: May 21, 2009

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Comments: The scenario you describe for the start is how us midsize hands people feel for 90% of the pitch.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Tusher Canyon : House Of Putterman : Walden's Room (5.10c)
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: May 20, 2009

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Comments: Josh Gross and I updated the anchors to modern equipment yesterday. You only need one rope for the raps. Our single sixty barely reached from the top of pitch two, but if you don't think you will reach then you can do a final shorter rap from the anchor that is just off pitch two (You can see the ground from there to know if the rope is down).

I agree with all the ANdy has to say above. I would add that when Josh began removing the old anchor he said "I wonder how long...."> His f... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Wall Street
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Apr 9, 2009

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Comments: The rock looks good but it deteriorates a lot. The best stuff is at the bottom.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Castleton Tower : Photo
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Apr 2, 2009

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Comments: You have a pretty good back swing.
I've been replacing bolts and having trouble with one thing; what did you use to fill your divet?


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