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The Shield


Member Since: Apr 9, 2006
Last Visit: 17 mins ago
Contact Sam Lightner, Jr.


Point Rank: # 225
Total Points: 2,202
Last Year: 112
Last 30 Days: 1
137 Compliments
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Areas are worth 15
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Where has Sam Lightner, Jr. been climbing?










Sam Lightner, Jr.

 
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All (1404) | Routes (67) | Areas (26) | Photos (183) | Comments (227) | Posts (831) | Stars (70) | Ratings
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Moab Area : State Highway 313 : "Sapper", the tower being "... (5.8 C1+ PG13)
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: May 16, 2010

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Comments: Brad Brandewie, Matt Pickren, and I went back and re did this today. Matt managed to free the last pitch at 12-. Brad managed to wiggle through the chimney without doing the armbar move... he had to take off his harness to do it, but one has to give him credit for going so far to avoid a harder move. If you do the move, the one protected by the #6 at the top of pitch 1, its 5.9. The last moves of the last pitch are 12a-ish. Back cleaning the only piece you get in (in the bedding seam) on p... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : Kingfisher : Colorado Northeast Ridge (5.8 C2)
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: May 14, 2010

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Comments: I did it many many moons ago. It no doubt changed many times since then. However, I remember the crux on that pitch above the ledge being protected with a tcu that was barely making contact on its outer lobe... it must have gotten so worn out its unuseable.
There was a seam there. It would take a pecker. Peckers do minimal damage.

There is one other option... has anyone tried to free it right there? In the fishers that sometimes works out nicely. Just sayin.



Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : Kingfisher : Colorado Northeast Ridge (5.8 C2)
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: May 13, 2010

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Comments: Sounds to me,
like it needs to be,
un-C... for a while.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : The Oracle : Fantasia (5.10- C2 R)
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: May 11, 2010

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Comments: Darren and Aaron, Super-kudos to you two for doing this job. Thank you.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Little Valley : Pinky Tower : Ring Sizer (5.10 PG13)
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: May 10, 2010

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Comments: Good-on-ya for cleaning that up.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Sand Flats : Elvis's Hammer : Hormones in Waiting (5.10)
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: May 10, 2010

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Comments: I thought the lip move was harder than 5.10. Also, one should note that the moves and pro at the base require the use of large wedged in chockstones. Being entrada, they could shatter. Just sayin'. As per the rappel, the tower will fall over before the rap anchors need any sort of replacement.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Bridger Jacks : Thunderbolts (Easter Island... (5.10)
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: May 9, 2010

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Comments: The ASCA replaced most of the lead bolts (pins) and the anchors. Brown chain now reigns. One 60m doing two rappels will get you down. A couple of the angles were stuborn, but most popped out waaaaaaayyyyy too easy. Again, all that was holding them in was a wad of rust mixed with sand.


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Long Wall : Hot September (5.9)
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Apr 17, 2010

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Comments: THis route was absolutely pure fun, in a puckered sort of way. Really cool climb.


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Long Wall : The Gift (5.12a)
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Apr 17, 2010

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Comments: Got too scared of the bolts... its in bad shape.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Mar 29, 2010

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Comments: And don't forget the standard "the place is ruined, man."


Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Wall Street : I Love Loosey (5.12b/c)
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Mar 15, 2010

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Comments: Arete right of Baby Blue is Fernando... maybe your thinking the arete right of that.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Little Valley : The Bride : Shotgun Wedding (5.11 A1+ R)
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Feb 26, 2010

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Comments: Tom, you're right. I am convinced and will remove the X. Bring a #4 bigbro and you will be kept off the ground.
I still stand by my strong belief that this is one of the more difficult chimneys in the area... I've done a few and this is the only one I was truly scared on.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Arches National Park : Tower of Babel : Zenyatta Entrada (5.4 C3)
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Jan 6, 2010

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Comments: Jason, I'm not OMG'ing that anyone tried to help, but instead that so much discussion could be generated by anyone of us over such a subjective, almost silly, subject.

Lets all continue on flawlessly.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Arches National Park : Tower of Babel : Zenyatta Entrada (5.4 C3)
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Dec 27, 2009

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Comments: O.
M.
G.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Castleton Tower : Kor-Ingalls Route (5.9)
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Dec 7, 2009

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Comments: Here is a little bolt/sandstone relationship evolution:

WHen you place a bolt, or multiple bolts, on a slap or a horizontal band of rock, you set a hole into the rock for water to travel. This then allows freeze-thaw, or just plain old water-softening, of the rock at a level beneath the surface. This then makes the bolts perhaps solid, but the rock itself very suspect.

This process had no doubt happened to the hollow slab where the previous anchor was. IT is very hollow and probably wasn't so ... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Castleton Tower : Kor-Ingalls Route (5.9)
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Dec 4, 2009

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Comments: I had to place the anchors in that spot cus the location for the old ones is a slab that is hollow. I tapped it with the hammer and it rattled, so I moved them. This was the best location with solid rock.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Arches National Park : Tower of Babel : Zenyatta Entrada (5.4 C3)
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Nov 24, 2009

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Comments: Personally, I dont feel like I have enough experience to really distinguish between C2+ and C3 with clarity, especially when the sketchy moves include a hook above a ledge. I think I use the plus cus I dont know where C2 ends and C3 begins. Also, i didn't take the fall, so its hard for me to discern the distance... now that I think of it, I may not be able to rate an aid climb at all.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Lockhart Basin : Trisstin's Tower : Regular Route (5.7 A1)
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Nov 13, 2009

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Comments: Good point Ben... wtf. We need that "stand on the pitons" punk to deflate this guy a bit. Ticks a hundred and suddenly he thinks he's done them all.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Battle of the Bulge Buttres... : Ruins Crack (5.10+)
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Nov 10, 2009

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Comments: Hey Gang
This is a pretty good climb. However, in a meeting with the Friends of Indian Creek and the American Alpine CLub, the BLM requested we stop climbing on it for archeological reasons. This is a valid request as the original ruins at the base were a granary. They have asked that we remove the anchors as well. As there are 10,000 other cracks in the area, lets just let this one be climberless.
Thanks
Sam


Location: UT : Moab Area : Hell Roaring Canyon : The Cauldrons : Eye of the Newt (5.10)
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Nov 1, 2009

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Comments: I would take a few extra hand size pieces. The roof pitch felt 10+ to me simply because of the silt on one wall. Its a great climb and if it weren't so remote people would do it all the time.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Moab Rim Area : Moab Rim Trail Towers : Requiem (5.12+ A0 PG13)
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Oct 26, 2009

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Comments: Thanks Paul. I didn't know for sure who was on the FA. It was only a rumor. Amazing this tower wasn't climbed until then as its in such a beautiful, accessible place.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Castleton Tower : Kor-Ingalls Route (5.9)
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Oct 24, 2009

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Comments: Liz Wattenberg and I (local ASCA) replaced two of the anchors and the two lead bolts with half inch stainless yesterday. No need to carry tat now. We also put a new log book on the summit as the others were pretty full.
Sam


Location: UT : Moab Area : Island In The Sky : Washer Woman : In Search Of Suds (5.10+)
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Oct 20, 2009

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Comments: The description above is incorrectly worded for the rappels. You DO NOT rap through the arch. You rap DOWN the arch or INTO the arch. If you go through it, as in from the west side pass through the notch to the east side, you are off the rappel route. There is an anchor at the base of the arch, but its best to continue, on double ropes, down about 60 more feet to a chain anchor on the left. From here double sixties reach a ledge just barely above the base .


Location: WY : Grand Teton National Park : Cascade Canyon : Guide's Wall (5.8)
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Aug 23, 2009

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Comments: The Rappels descend from chains, trending rappers right to a large tree, then trending right to another smaller tree, then hard right to chains you pass on pitch 2... that gets you to the ground. THe top anchor has had one of the 1/4's replaced with a stainless 3/8. You need double ropes to use only these raps.

Oh, if you want to link the mid pitches together you don't have to have a 70, but you do have to use every inch of a 60. Set your belay in the notch at the base of the fingercrack rather... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Onion Creek : Mystery Towers & Top of the... : Gothic Nightmare : ... : Photo
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Aug 6, 2009

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Comments: I love that we can see how fast the towers erode. I showed pictures of this to the park service in ARches and they were blown away... I think it helped them to recognize that erosion takes out our anchors really fast. SOme of the entrada seems like it disappears at about an inch every few years. A real inch, not an inch as I like to define it (roughly this long _______).


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