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The Shield


Member Since: Apr 9, 2006
Last Visit: 4 days ago
Contact Sam Lightner, Jr.


Point Rank: # 241
Total Points: 2,210
Last Year: 115
Last 30 Days: 5
144 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Sam Lightner, Jr. been climbing?










Sam Lightner, Jr.

 
Contributions

Contributions


All 1414 | Routes 67 | Areas 26 | Photos 184 | Page Improvements | Comments 230 | Posts 837 | Stars 70 | Ratings
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Bridger Jacks : Thunderbolts (Easter Island... (5.10)
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Jun 8, 2012

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Comments: Yeah dude, thats me... unable to see that 100% of the force on a piece of fixed protection is downward. Hmmm.

Besides pullout, the biggest problems with angles are:
1) they are untreated steel and will break down in sandstone. As taken directly from BD's website, "With normal use and proper care, the life expectancy of your aid iron is approximately five years, and can be longer or shorter depending on how frequently you use them and on the conditions of their use. " All of the pins were ruste... more >>


Location: Cultivating Mass : Things to do when you're ch... : Photo
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: May 19, 2012

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Comments: Is that Gina, Killis?


Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : Ancient Art : Stolen Chimney (5.10)
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: May 12, 2012

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Comments: I feel compelled to say this:
Ancient Art's Stolen Chimney is NOT a sport climb and should not be attempted by any climber who is not very comfortable climbing 5.10. There are places on each pitch where if you fall you will likely die. At the very least you will be badly hurt. The replaced bolts are nothing more than than a modern version of what the original ascent party had. They can be manipulated with by people, or damaged by the elements, in such a way that they are not safe. For thi... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : Ancient Art : Stolen Chimney (5.10)
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: May 7, 2012

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Comments: Hey Jeremy
OK, here is the history as I have it... its all in the beholder of course.

A few years ago Josh Gross and I went out there and redid much of the route with stainless rawls where there were banged in angles and star drives. Nothing added, just replaced. Since then one of those rawls, sorry Powers 5 pieces, looked as if it had unscrewed on its own (perhaps) and come out.... another, on pitch 3, looked to have been removed. Again, these were just replacements of what had been in there.... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : Ancient Art : Stolen Chimney (5.10)
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: May 7, 2012

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Comments: Don't worry... you can still fall and get hurt or killed... easily.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : The Rainbow Wall : The Original Route (5.12)
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Apr 30, 2012

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Comments: Josh's gear list is perfect, even for linking pitches, and I agree thtat the last 5.12 pitch is substantially harder than the others.

We got up to the base in the evening (April 27) and led the first three pitches, then slept at the base. For most of the next morning, from the top of P3 to until we were on the Rainbow Ledge way high, we were in the sun.

There were a few mosquitoes at the base during the bivy... plan accordingly.

I would list this as one of the 10 best multipitch climbs I'v... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Original Meat Wall : Wee Doggie (5.10-)
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Apr 19, 2012

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Comments: I disagree. At issue is where people place their protection as that pulls the rope under the roof. Also, in this rock, you can't just place an anchor anywhere. Large flakes break off on Potash and the bulge is in a large flake.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Wall : The Schoolmaster (5.10 A0 PG13)
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Apr 14, 2012

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Comments: Seriously nice job JW!


Location: UT : Moab Area : River Road : Lighthouse Tower : Lonely Vigil (5.10)
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Mar 29, 2012

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Comments: I believe that anchor was added by the slackline community so they could walk between Lighthouse and the Butte.


Location: UT : Moab Area : State Highway 313 : Finish Line Tower- If You A... (5.8 A2) : Photo
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Feb 21, 2012

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Comments: You guys just made my shitlist.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Reservoir Wall : Excuse Station (5.11)
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Feb 1, 2012

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Comments: The ban only comes into effect when the birds move into the nest... thats usually late March or early April. The FOIC will try and keep you posted as to when this happens. BTW, thanks for asking. Following this ban really helps with access to the other cliffs.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Moab Rim Area : Moab Rim Trail Towers : Requiem (5.12+ A0 PG13) : Photo
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Jan 17, 2012

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Comments: I think it was in the file and it just went up.... also, it reminds everyone just how hot i am.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : The Titan : Finger of Fate (5.8 A2)
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Dec 8, 2011

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Comments: You will not have to worry about bugs right now, and I dare say you need more than a light bag. Single digits in Moab the last few nights.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Sister Superior Group : Jah Man (5.10)
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Nov 21, 2011

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Comments: Hi Gang
Here is the link to our FB page on the subject of this road.

facebook.com/note.php?note_id=...

Also, if you go there, "Like" us. The FOIC is working hard for climbing and the more friends we have, the more effective we can be... seriously.

Sam


Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : Cottontail Tower : West Side Story (5.9 C3) : Photo
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Nov 14, 2011

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Comments: Paint.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Castleton Tower : North Chimney (5.8) : Photo
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Oct 28, 2011

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Comments: If you tell yourself "the bolt will catch me", you are putting yourself at great risk of falling to a ledge, hitting your belayer and breaking her arm, falling off her and factor 1.5ing the anchor and leaving a bloody mess dripping down the first pitch and onto the party following you. You will then rap off, get your rope stuck, and walk painfully and dejectedly on the ankle that you realize is broken, to the parking area and then subjected to the crass old nurse with the thick glasses in the M... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : State Highway 313 : Red Rocket Tower- Afternoon... (5.11+ C1 PG13)
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Jun 2, 2011

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Comments: Nicely done Billiam.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Tusher Canyon : The Academy : Hot For Teacher (5.9)
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Apr 17, 2011

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Comments: Huh.... I wonder how your rope got stuck. I"ve done it three times and had no problems. The rope is away from the main crack. Maybe knot on the ledge?


Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : Cottontail Tower : West Side Story (5.9 C3)
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Apr 6, 2011

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Comments: Jason, those half inch bolts that separated every other or every two ancient relic, nor those half inch bolts with chain at each anchor, were not the "original gear". Far more was replaced before you guys got there than while you were on it. Just a clarification.

EDIT
BTW, this is in no way intended to influence any arguments of style or anything. I just want it understood that prior to you guys freeing the route we had replaced a lot of it... its in the record above. I make the point simply be... more >>


Location: International : Asia : Thailand : Laem Phra Nang (Railey and ... : Tonsai Bay : ... : Lion King (5.11c)
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Mar 24, 2011

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Comments: This just got replaced in Ti. I think its pretty solid 12a these days.


Location: UT : Moab Area : River Road : Big Bend Butte : Infrared (5.12-) : Photo
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Jan 25, 2011

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Comments: Did you boys sleep?


Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : Ancient Art : Stolen Chimney (5.10)
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Nov 19, 2010

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Comments: We will try and get it fixed asap


Location: UT : Moab Area : Hell Roaring Canyon
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Nov 9, 2010

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Comments: Yes, Drew, you gotta jug. One full length rope reaches. Its a bit exposed getting to the anchor. There are no sharp edges but it does rub on the rock.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : Ancient Art : Stolen Chimney (5.10)
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Oct 30, 2010

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Comments: What a shame. Josh Gross and I rebolted this with stainless steel ASCA stuff last year. It appears we will have to start using thread lock... all we did was replace the original stuff.

I met a guy years ago who was in to removing rebolted bolts... especially asca stuff. His first initial was C and he lived in Provo. I let him know how uncool I thought it was, but anyone that ignorant and that convinced his way is the right way is not gonna change. Its a shame. I'm not sure why the world has suc... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : Ancient Art
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Jul 28, 2010

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Comments: Excuse me? Who stripped the bolt on the bolt ladder? And did they say why?


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