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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Cliffs of Insanity : To The Pain (5.10- PG13)
By: Sam Feuerborn When: Apr 24, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Plaque reads 'brute squad' until I can make it up there to go on a plaque making spree.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Cliffs of Insanity : To The Pain (5.10- PG13)
By: Sam Feuerborn When: Apr 14, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Dang I'm bummed I missed the rant, heard it was a good one.
Just was feeling sassy when I posted it and was bummed the name was taken, turns out I skimped on the research.
It's certainly chossy below the belay on the first pitch and that's a bummer since the second pitch is such a fun moderate OW.
Devin, you'll have to check out the new route you saw me on, it's pretty bitchin'.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Cliffs of Insanity : True Love (5.11-)
By: Sam Feuerborn When: Apr 9, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Bloom gave this the straight .12 in his new guide book, classic Bloom move.
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Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Bedrock : Barney's Crack (5.12a)
By: Sam Feuerborn When: Nov 27, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Several bolts that were in the worst shape have been replaced, though the old studs still need to be removed if anyone has a steel chisel, I'd be happy to do it myself.
What do you folks think of replacing the first bolt with the mangled hanger? If it were replaced ,the draw when clipped would not hang over that hand hold and could potentially alter how the route climbs, is this nit picky or a legit concern?
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Island In The Sky : Zeus : Sisyphus (5.11 R)
By: Sam Feuerborn When: Apr 23, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: There are 2 fixed nuts and a knot (double overhand I reckon) for the first pitch belay although yellow aliens are still a good idea to back these up. gets pretty thin off that belay
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Island In The Sky : Moses : Pale Fire (5.12b)
By: Sam Feuerborn When: Apr 23, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Seemed like the last moves on the 3rd pitch (we ended just before the short 5.8 runout arete/face climbing) were the hardest technical moves at solid .12. Rest of the climb was super bitchin'
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Fin Wall : Finless Brown (5.10+)
By: Sam Feuerborn When: Feb 13, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Loose flake is gone as of this last weekend.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Supercrack Buttress
By: Sam Feuerborn When: Nov 14, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Any beta on the twin tips cracks between wild works of fire and IHC? book says .10 but felt a whole lot closer to .12?
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Supercrack Buttress : Unknown (5.10)
By: Sam Feuerborn When: Nov 12, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is definitely wild works of fire.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Tenderloins Wall : Unnamed (1) (5.11)
By: Sam Feuerborn When: Oct 24, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'd differ on the gear a bit, maybe 3x.3's 1x.4 (or orange metolius), 3x.75's 2x1's and a #3 camalot.
Stellar climb!
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Sparks Wall : Sparkling Gefilte Fish (5.10)
By: Sam Feuerborn When: Oct 17, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Chains on one of the bolts are a bit wimpy and could stand to be beefed up, not greatest anchor at the creek, nor the worst.
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Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Photo
By: Sam Feuerborn When: Aug 26, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yeah Siebe! way to get after it!
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Location: International : Europe : Czech Republic
By: Sam Feuerborn When: Jun 19, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: The sandstone routes get better bolted the harder they get, expect to be placing knots and threads on more moderate grades but I would highly recommend checking it out!
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Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Colorado National Monument : Kissing Couple area : Kissing Couple : Photo
By: Sam Feuerborn When: May 21, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Taken by Skyeler Congdon.
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Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Unaweep Canyon : Main Canyon: Unaweep Granit... : Crypto Wall : Elementary, My Dear Watson (5.11)
By: Sam Feuerborn When: May 8, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: First pitch is 9+, and second pitch is the crux pitch at 11.
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Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Jabba Buttress : I Need a Batholith (5.10)
By: Sam Feuerborn When: Apr 22, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Tim, quit being such negative Nancy, go lead the route. Enjoy it or not, but the horse is dead.
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Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Jabba Buttress : I Need a Batholith (5.10)
By: Sam Feuerborn When: Apr 21, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Xander, you should get after it, man. I did it yesterday, and it was pretty rad. We added another bolt down low and hope to add another up high today (the hole is drilled). Still some run out up top but no ledge potential, and it's maybe 5.5.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : 2nd Meat Wall
By: Sam Feuerborn When: Apr 3, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hey does anyone know what the routes are to the right of cube steaks? there's a varied corner that is fairly thin, i think in the book it's 10- and then there are 2 others a bit further down, one i think is splitter fingers and the other goes up a ramp and runs from .5's to good hands with a #5 pod at the top and has a 2nd 11+ pitch that's thin through a roof.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : 2nd Meat Wall : Unknown (5.10-)
By: Sam Feuerborn When: Apr 3, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: as a lead clipping the anchors is very difficult as it's quite the reach from a tips jam, just TR this thing off of Tube steaks.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Donnelly Canyon : 5.10 Corner (5.10-)
By: Sam Feuerborn When: Mar 20, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: i took 2 #4, 2#5, 1 #1,2,3 and it was a little run out at the top. More fun and a bit harder if you jam the crack OW style.
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Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Watch Crystal : Martyr's Crown (5.12a)
By: Sam Feuerborn When: Jan 1, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Haha Ya, I was just giving Skyeler shit. I cried and cheated my way up it. The real ascent will come when the weather clears along with a couple other routes up there. You should give it a go Matt if you feel you're up to it. It's pretty rad, I'll give the FA a little bit of credit (but not so much that his ego would become over-inflated).
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Location: CO : Durango : Junction Creek : Chipmunk Rock : Photo
By: Sam Feuerborn When: Dec 7, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Sounds and looks unappealing. Why leave the death blocks? If trundling is not an option, why bolt choss?
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Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Watch Crystal : Martyr's Crown (5.12a)
By: Sam Feuerborn When: Dec 5, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Classic moderate!
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Location: CO : Durango : Junction Creek : Chipmunk Rock : Photo
By: Sam Feuerborn When: Dec 4, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: I don't understand where the climbing would be on this. Beta anyone?
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Silverton : Eureka : Second Gully (WI3)
By: Sam Feuerborn When: Nov 30, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: It is in and awesome!
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