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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Bell's Canyon : Middle Bell Tower : Ellsworth-McQuarrie Route (5.7)
By: Sam Cannon When: 16 hours ago | view comment >> |
Comments: I'm not the type of person to rock popular opinion, but two things felt pretty clear to me after finishing the route - all pitches except the first felt a full grade harder than 5.7 and quite sustained. It's not hard, but it did feel consistently more committing than 5.7 on pitches 2,3, and 4. Personally I'd give it a 5.8 or an LCC 5.8-, with the 1st pitch being the easiest/least enjoyable, 2 and 3 being good 5.8s, and the 4th pitch easing up a tad but still more difficult than the first. Also, ... more >>
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Crescent Crack Buttress : Crescent Crack (5.7)
By: Sam Cannon When: May 15, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I give this route 4 stars IF you do the Direct Variation and the Final Link. The sheer variety of climbing is amazing, and my 2nd time up it the OW on p2 felt physical but really fun. I can understand people complaining that it's deceptively hard when expecting easy 5.7 but that doesn't mean it's bad. It's an OW, and as already mentioned several times there are ways of climbing it that will make it much harder and as Garret mentioned size probably makes a big difference. A must do w/ the 2 varia... more >>
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Bell's Canyon : Waterfall Dome : For Whom the Bells Toll (5.7)
By: Sam Cannon When: May 15, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: How long is the hike into the route?
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Kermits Wall and Perhaps Ar... : Smitty's Wet Dream (5.9)
By: Sam Cannon When: May 13, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I really, really enjoyed this route. I'm currently working through all the 9's in the canyon and have done nearly all the classics, and I felt (having recently done a lot of the good ones) this deserved to be in the pantheon of must-do LCC 9's and 9+'s.
Really fun, varied moves. Different than anything I've climbed.
Ball-nuts work amazingly well for the tiny seams. In fact, I'm buying a set because of how well they worked (my partner lent me his which I used at his insistence).
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : JHCOB Wall : Second East Face (5.7)
By: Sam Cannon When: May 11, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: 2nd pitch is the best. The route has a great aesthetic. We used the Outside Corner walkoff. If you count the aretes from right to left (Outside Corner being the first), this climb ascends the face just to the left of the 3rd arete.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Ed and Terry Wall : Flakes (5.7)
By: Sam Cannon When: Apr 24, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Stout for a 5.7. This is to 5.7's what Satan's Corner in LCC is to 5.8's. Thrilling, delicate, fun moves, good gear. Offset stoppers work really nicely. I also had good placements for a 1, 2, and 3 mastercam. Thought this was an overall more enjoyable climb than Maincrack.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Mount Olympus : South Summit : Geurt's Ridge (5.5)
By: Sam Cannon When: Mar 25, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thought it would be fun to do a "winter" ascent of the ridge, so with the recent snow storm we decided to plod up to it. Did the ridge, but it was quite a bit more "involved" with the slush over the slabby rock, and I found myself placing way more protection (like more than the 1 or 2 pieces I placed in the summer) than I would have without snow in rock shoes. Interesting day.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : JHCOB Wall : Outside Corner (5.7)
By: Sam Cannon When: Mar 14, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I feel like this route would be fairly difficult for a new 5.7 trad leader. If 5.7 is your limit, I'd do a few others before committing to this one. It is a phenomenal route, a lot of fun with a few really memorable moves. Really cool line.
conditions: as of March 14th, 2013 there is snow at the top that is melting onto the final section of the last pitch. This made it quite a bit spicier and I really double checked my pro before committing to the wet rocks. Both shoes and hands were wet.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Wasatch Alpine Areas : Pfeifferhorn : North Ridge (5.4 Easy Snow)
By: Sam Cannon When: Mar 12, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Out of the various "true" winter/spring mountaineering lines I've done in the Wasatch, this is by far my favorite. While the S Ridge of Superior is listed as having a higher technical rating, the N Ridge of Pfeiff is far more committing, sustained, and technical (at least in my book). Don't underestimate the route because of its 5.4 rating (though the lower part of the ridge is more difficult, and can be skipped - but don't!).
EDIT: I don't mean to oversell it, me and my partner felt pretty com... more >>
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Santaquin Canyon : Santaquin Canyon Ice : Backoff (WI4)
By: Sam Cannon When: Jan 28, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I dropped a 16cm screw (BD express) somewhere in the snow on the walkoff, I can identify markings if you find it. Otherwise fantastic route. As of Jan 2013 it looked pretty fat. What a climb!
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Spanish Fork Canyon : Spanish Fork Canyon / Hwy 6... : Iron Oxide Falls (WI3) : Photo
By: Sam Cannon When: Jan 28, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbed this on January 10th and your pic looks like it grew a bit since we were there.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Mount Olympus : Tolcat Canyon Ice Climbs : Boreas (WI3-4)
By: Sam Cannon When: Jan 18, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Checked out Boreas today (1/17/13). We hit it mid-day and found it in less-than-perfect conditions, but it was in and climbable. It's a beautifully aesthetic line, framed on either side by impressive ridges and great rock.
The approach involves a little bit of routefinding - take the standard trail for Olympus to the point where it cuts into Tolcat Canyon. From the seam of the "V" follow the trees across the base of the rock band (leaving the standard trail) crossing one short open section. Bus... more >>
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Willard : Southwest Ridge (5.7)
By: Sam Cannon When: Jul 9, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Did this with Walter Van and Scott Cooney on 7/7/12. There's a rock quarry you can park in at the base of an ATV road. From the road up the hills/ridge leading to the saddle at the base of the London Spire we took about 3 hrs. The rock on the Spire was loose in places but careful footing and testing holds allowed uneventful passage. The writeup is accurate; the approach is a bit beastly (I recommend getting it done early in the am) but worth the fun of the climb. We simul-climbed (rope... more >>
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Galaxy Area : Tatooine : The Phantom Menace (5.7)
By: Sam Cannon When: May 4, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I've been lead climbing for just two weeks now and moved off of The Appendage and Layer Cakes (some 5.7s and 5.8s)to do this route - which was a lot of fun. I found this to be a great "next route" after spending a lot of time practicing clipping on Appendage's shorter routes. Well worth the approach and a good route for novice lead climbers with some experience.
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