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Member Since: May 4, 2012
Last Visit: 19 hours ago
Contact Sam Cannon


Point Rank: # 749
Total Points: 869
Last Year: 548
Last 30 Days: 86
52 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Sam Cannon been climbing?










Contributions


All 851 | Routes 5 | Areas 1 | Photos 137 | Page Improvements 2 | Comments 113 | Posts 109 | Stars 374 | Ratings 110
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: SD : Spearfish Canyon : Big Picture Gully : Bradyism Wall : Marsha Gets Creamed (5.10a)
By: Sam Cannon When: Dec 12, 2014

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Comments: Nominated for best route description.


Location: UT : Ibex : Blind Valley : Jack's Crack (5.8)
By: Sam Cannon When: Dec 10, 2014

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Comments: The beginning to pitch 1 is very sandy and friable for several moves that are unprotectable and committing. Lots of loose rock so make sure and wear a helmet.

Despite this heads-up start I thought that there were some fun moments on the climb. The beginning to P2 is quite fun as is the middle/finish of P1. If you're climbing at the Cape, it could be worth the adventure.

A bit of an approach for the quality, but fantastic views from the route.


Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell - South : Eastern Reef Area.. AKA The... : E Crags (DBC Canyon) : Death by Chocolate (5.8)
By: Sam Cannon When: Dec 10, 2014

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Comments: Fair enough! I don't lead harder than 5.10c on gear (still moderate, I know), guess I was thinking of someone who normally seeks out 8s and 9s but isn't a 10 leader. My buddy who is an 11 climber with little slab experience backed off P2 after a fall and I led the rest of the route.

This definitely wet my appetite and I'll be back for sure. What a place! Thanks again for the rad day.


Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell - South : Eastern Reef Area.. AKA The... : E Crags (DBC Canyon) : Death by Chocolate (5.8)
By: Sam Cannon When: Dec 10, 2014

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Comments: This climb is not for moderate leaders. The runouts are, and feel, quite serious on nearly every pitch *except* the short moves for the crux on P3. On the 5.0 pitch there is no pro and the rock quality is the worst on the route...moving to the anchors on the 5.0 pitch was easily the mental crux of the route with no pro below me.

That being said, if you have slab experience and a solid lead-head, the runouts are what make the route (not to mention it's gorgeous, and on one of the more unique loo... more >>


Location: UT : Ibex : Corral Crags : Ewe For Real Wall : Ewe For Real (5.10a/b)
By: Sam Cannon When: Dec 7, 2014

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Comments: Guidebook suggests bringing a big cam. For reference, it's a #4 placement but is not necessary, and I'm no hardman. Easy ground and an easy clip are what it's protecting, so if you don't have the cam do the climb anyways, at least imho :)


Location: UT : Ibex : The Cape : Left Formation : Shark Attack (5.10b)
By: Sam Cannon When: Dec 7, 2014

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Comments: Neither the guidebook nor your description makes any sense. There is a 10- ish route on this wall but it goes up a flaring runnel, and staying left of the bolt line would be quite odd.

The guidebook lists there being two 10b's on this wall, and we only found one, and then a harder, overhanging route to the right that I believe is an 11d (an entire line of bolts is missing that is reported in the guidebook). There are two great 5.9s to the left.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Trilogy Buttress : Shadow and Flame (5.10b)
By: Sam Cannon When: Dec 6, 2014

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Comments: Supplemental gear beta:

I'm not much of a sport climber so I brought a single rack with me, almost all of which was unnecessary. HOWEVER, I did place a medium sized DMM offset nut in the upper roof, as well as a BD .4.

The roof protects with either a BD .4 or a yellow Metolius, depending on where you put it. That being said, the roof is really well bolted, you can clip the bolt above the roof before you've surmounted it, so it's pretty easy on the head pro-wise already. I did appreciate havi... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Trilogy Buttress : Shadow and Flame (5.10b) : Photo
By: Sam Cannon When: Dec 6, 2014

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Comments: Finally got on this today. What a rad pitch!


Location: UT : Ibex : Quartermoon Tower : East Face : Aurora Borealis/Lunar Power (5.10a/b) : Photo
By: Sam Cannon When: Nov 28, 2014

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Comments: Yeah we pulled, too. But I took some convincing.


Location: UT : Ibex : Steamboat Pass : Through the Never (5.9)
By: Sam Cannon When: Nov 27, 2014

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Comments: Climbed this route today after doing a multi-pitch in Ibex -- a couple thoughts: I was able to get to the formation in my tiny Honda 2-door, 2-wheel drive just fine. Secondly, this route is awesome! The West Desert guidebook gives it 1 star, but I thought this was a solid 3.5 star route. I loved it. I am very easily stoked, however, and have a high tolerance for choss.

Compared to Notch Peak limestone, this is the best rock ever. It's really only the last bit of the 2nd pitch that requires you ... more >>


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Mount Carmel Tunnel : Headache Area : The Headache (5.10+) : Photo
By: Sam Cannon When: Nov 10, 2014

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Comments: This pitch was quite a bit steeper than it looks from these anchors! Truly superb pitch (route).


Location: UT : Zion National Park : East Side : Aries Butte : Led by Sheep (5.7)
By: Sam Cannon When: Nov 10, 2014

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Comments: What aspect of the formation is the route on? Is it a suitable climb to do when there's a high of 50 or so?


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Ginger Buttress : Ginger Cracks (5.9) : Photo
By: Sam Cannon When: Nov 10, 2014

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Comments: While it may be the most common (I wouldn't know), it's worth pointing out it's a variation-finish, as I felt the corner/chimney on the final pitch was super fun, and from watching climbers finish on that pitch the "real" finish looked more interesting.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Ginger Buttress : Ginger Cracks (5.9) : Photo
By: Sam Cannon When: Nov 2, 2014

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Comments: This is the final pitch to "Unimpeachable Groping." Ginger Cracks finishes in the dihedral to the right, heading into the wide chimney further to the right above it.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Rose Tower : Olive Oil (5.7) : Photo
By: Sam Cannon When: Oct 14, 2014

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Comments: Probably mid-afternoon, around 2 or 3. Wish I could remember for you! The shot was taken in early November.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Mount Olympus : North Summit : Kamp's Ridge (5.6)
By: Sam Cannon When: Oct 6, 2014

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Comments: One more note about the descent -- I've done Kamp's three ways now...first by finishing off with a Traverse of the sub summits to the S Summit and then coming down the standard trail (shuttle car required), the second by traversing the N Summit ridge to the West Slabs descent and coming down that way (again, shuttle required), but the third time, not wanting to use a shuttle car, we tagged the N Summit then backtracked a bit to the top anchors for Valhalla.

For this descent double 60s are requ... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Ed and Terry Wall : Edge-n-Scary (5.11a)
By: Sam Cannon When: Oct 2, 2014

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Comments: P1 felt a bit tenuous to me...really fun movement but kinda crap gear with very suspect rock through the roof/corner. Bring 1 or 2 finger sized pieces for the upper portion going to the anchors.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Ed and Terry Wall
By: Sam Cannon When: Sep 20, 2014

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Comments: The more I climb beyond the 2 standard routes on this wall (Main Crack and Flakes), the more I love it. Fantastic piece of slab! For those looking at this area for info on those two routes, I'd encourage you to check out the other trad and sport lines on the wall! The sport routes will feel a bit more traditional in that the spacing makes you really concentrate between bolts, especially if you're only a 5.10 climber (like me). It feels like they were probably bolted on lead. Real McCoy and Call ... more >>


Location: WY : Grand Teton National Park : Grand Teton : The Grand Traverse (5.8)
By: Sam Cannon When: Aug 28, 2014

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Comments: I did this back in 2012 as a relatively young climber. It remains one of my fondest memories after several years of alpine climbing in other locations. Thought I'd share the writeup I did at the time for our route. This isn't heavy (at all) on beta, but there are lots of pics from each segment of the traverse, and my thoughts about the experience overall that I wrote down, again, as a newbie climber.

stoneheart-home.blogspot.com/2...


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Green Monster Slab : Green Dihedral (5.8)
By: Sam Cannon When: Aug 26, 2014

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Comments: 5.9+ because this felt more difficult than Green Monster. Also, as the guy above me notes, there are two loose flakes. I think I could've pulled the second one off, and it was part of my sequence through the crux. Until it's been removed I would be very careful, it would likely slice your rope. The crack needs to be cleaned out--some good placements are nullified by mud caked into the crack.

This climb is rad! Sweet stemming/underclings/liebacks with committing moves above gear and a slighly ov... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : P.A.'s Mother : Mama's Boy (5.8+)
By: Sam Cannon When: Aug 24, 2014

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Comments: Really high quality climbing that is oddly bolted and very clearly harder than 5.8. Just because it's sandbagged doesn't decrease it's quality, however! Really fun movement with bolts clipped at awkward stances. I was lucky and had a 6'2" gal lead the route first, then I led it on her draws which made clipping quite easier. If you blow it clipping the 2nd bolt there is deck potential.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Willow Canyon : The Guardian : Swiss Edge (5.9+) : Photo
By: Sam Cannon When: Aug 22, 2014

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Comments: The route line is very approximate. Put it there mainly to show more or less where the route goes. Route finding is easy, just follow the only line of bolts.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Willow Canyon : The Guardian : Swiss Edge (5.9+)
By: Sam Cannon When: Aug 22, 2014

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Comments: First off I really, thoroughly enjoyed this route. It's an impressive looking feature that grabs your eye...in fact we were heading up to climb "Giggles" in the BWC but foreboding looking weather made us hesitate, and low and behold this awesome, conical tower. Glad it was on MP bec I'd never heard of it before.

Epic, but not too lengthy bushwhack to get to the base of the route. The rack recommendation is spot on. We had the smallest (red) X4 up to a #3 C4 with a set of nuts. While we di... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Layer Cake : Cosmic Space Dust Lazers (5.7)
By: Sam Cannon When: Aug 21, 2014

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Comments: Wanting to move fast I linked pitches 2 and 3 w/ a 70, skipping a bunch of bolts on easy terrain and putting long, extended slings on all the bolts I did clip on P3. No rope drag.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : The Jobsite : The Paper Route (5.8)
By: Sam Cannon When: Aug 21, 2014

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Comments: It seems like this is a bit misleading to call 5.8 - the start felt bouldery 5.9 to me. I've just started climbing in Rock Canyon but the grades seem all over the place on the soft-stiff spectrum. To me LCC and BCC feel fairly consistent (internally, as in 5.10s in LCC tend to be in line with each other, etc) with a few outliers. I guess there have been a lot of different route setters in the area which would explain it, though LCC has had that as well.

I'm not jumping on the RC SUX bandwagon, ... more >>


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