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Member Since: May 4, 2012
Last Visit: 1 day ago
Contact Sam Cannon


Point Rank: # 1,083
Total Points: 540
Last Year: 472
Last 30 Days: 16
34 Compliments
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Contributions


All (544) | Routes (3) | Areas (1) | Photos (88) | Comments (55) | Posts (81) | Stars (256) | Ratings (60)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : House Range : Notch Peak : La Fin du Monde (5.10)
By: Sam Cannon When: 4 days ago

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Comments: After pulling the crux moves past the bolts on P4 go left around the arete. The guidebook by James Garret mentions a piton but I didn't see one. What I DID see was another bolt with a long sling on it to my right (off route). The bolt tempted me that way and I succumbed. The rock above the bolt is terrible. Sandy, loose, bad pro - don't go to that bolt. After the crux moves head left wherever it seems easiest, I doubt it makes a whole lot of difference exactly where, around the arete and onto th... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Wasatch Alpine Areas : Pfeifferhorn : North Ridge (5.4 Easy Snow) : Photo
By: Sam Cannon When: 4 days ago

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Comments: Well, it's been to Patagonia now on your back. It's seen some good choss.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Altered States Gully : Altered States (5.9 R) : Photo
By: Sam Cannon When: Apr 13, 2014

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Comments: This is an amazing section of the climb. Runout above small gear and pulling the crux of the route...breathtaking. So good.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : The Dead Snag : East Dihedrals (5.6)
By: Sam Cannon When: Apr 10, 2014

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Comments: A great option if Steort's is busy or you've done Steort's ridge 100x. The good climbing on this route, imo, is better than the good climbing on Steort's, but as others have noted consistency and positioning are better on Steort's. The two roofs in the dihedrals weren't hard, but they definitely felt like short 5.7 sections. The rest is 5th class. Worthwhile for sure, **/4.


Location: WY : Grand Teton National Park : Grand Teton : Lower Exum Ridge (5.7) : Photo
By: Sam Cannon When: Apr 9, 2014

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Comments: Awesome shot.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Green Adjective Gully : Wheels on Fire Direct (5.10a)
By: Sam Cannon When: Mar 26, 2014

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Comments: It seems to be rare where you have a classic line with a classic variation, each within half of a grade of each other. I love, love, love Wheels. Both lines are superb, but I do like the direct finish better. You get the crux of Wheels standard, and while Wheels (at least in my opinion) gets easier once you hit the traverse, the direct finish is sustained with amazing jamming and great gear. I think liebacking is the more strenuous and insecure way to climb it.

Honestly, second only to "Mexican... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : The Egg : Lowe Blow (5.9+) : Photo
By: Sam Cannon When: Mar 23, 2014

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Comments: I'm amazed anyone would do this route w/o long sleeves (or a shirt).


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Waterfront, The : Head On (5.10b)
By: Sam Cannon When: Mar 22, 2014

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Comments: Destroyed my hand on the roof. The crack is very gritty with sharp crystals. Too painful for me - I'll go back and do it with tape.
2nd pitch pain.
2nd pitch pain.



Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Storm Mountain Picnic Area : Bumble Bee Wall : Upchuck (5.10-)
By: Sam Cannon When: Mar 21, 2014

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Comments: The route,from the start up until after the roof, is a strong 2 stars, super fun. The climbing becomes indistinct, chossy, dirty, and (at least the way I went) runout on kitty litter. The roof is super fun, protects really well. The climbing above it stays interesting for another 20 ft or so, but if you continue to the top of the formation, like I did, you're in for some less-than-classic ground.

To get down (assuming you go all the way up - and there isn't a bolted anchor for the route) scram... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Bridger Jacks : Wild Flower (5.10a)
By: Sam Cannon When: Mar 19, 2014

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Comments: +1 for Lucas' comment regarding a 70 getting you to the last rap station. Our 70 got us within a few feet of the anchors, and we each had to place gear, clip in with a PAS, and essentially down-lead clipping into gear for 8-10 feet.

2nd pitch was phenomenal fun.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Cat Wall : Unnamed 19 (5.10)
By: Sam Cannon When: Mar 19, 2014

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Comments: The Bloom book lists 7 #2s and 5 #3s for the gear. There are more #3 placements than #2 placements on the route. I was a bit gripped by having to place tipped-out #2s at the endurance fists-crux where #3s would've been perfect. Worked through it, as with average hands the jamming is still pretty secure, but I did have to fight my head a bit on the gear.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Cat Wall : Unnamed 19 (5.10+)
By: Sam Cannon When: Mar 19, 2014

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Comments: This page is redundant. The Bloom guidebook lists Unnamed Crack 19 on the Cat Wall as being 5.10. There's no way this crack is 5.10+. There'a another page for Unnamed Crack 19 that lists the same route as 5.10, which is consistent with the guidebook. It's misleading to have two pages for the same crack.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Storm Mountain Picnic Area : Psychobabble Wall : Psychostematic (5.10a)
By: Sam Cannon When: Mar 16, 2014

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Comments: I went back today for a friend who wanted to lead Psychobabble. Figured I'd give it an RP attempt, and felt much better. I only placed two nuts (and right next to each other). Small cam placements were OK to very good all the way up. Really cool movement, though it felt much harder to me when I was just breaking in to 5.10a trad.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Waterfront, The : Losing My Religion (5.7)
By: Sam Cannon When: Mar 10, 2014

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Comments: To access this climb, head west from "Barefoot in Barbados" around the corner. It's not on the same wall, which confused me and my partner as it was listed as being between "Baja Breakdown" and "Barefoot," but it's not.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Kermits Wall and Perhaps Ar... : MA 1 (5.10a) : Photo
By: Sam Cannon When: Mar 10, 2014

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Comments: There's a bolted anchor. After you pull the lieback you head right onto a low-angle ramp by way of an off-kilter sequence of moves. As you head up the dihedral you'll come in view of the chains. 2 raps with a 60m rope gets you down.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Waterfront, The : Baja Breakdown (5.9)
By: Sam Cannon When: Mar 10, 2014

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Comments: Very worthwhile line with some heads up moves and small gear. I went for the OS lead and stuck to the seam/corner/dihedral. After climbing above the piton you traverse on thin slab moves over to the other end of the slab, pulling some delicate moves to gain the corner as it angles directly upward. Only the smallest brassies protect this, and only the opening moves of the next section. Unless you have doubles or triples in the smallest brassy sizes you're SOL for pro for a good ways, running it o... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Green Adjective Gully : Goodro's Nightmare (5.8)
By: Sam Cannon When: Feb 26, 2014

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Comments: 2nd pitch was really fun. I think linking both pitches would make for a very enjoyable romp.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Altered States Gully : Betty's Altered Elbow (5.9+)
By: Sam Cannon When: Feb 24, 2014

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Comments: I don't have a lot of slab experience (hardest I've led is Crescent Crack, final link) and this felt totally reasonable to me. There are a few runout sections, but not nearly as bad as other slab routes in LCC. I did place 3 cams (total) on the route, but they weren't absolutely necessary (yellow TCU, blue and yellow X4s). I really enjoyed both the positioning and the movement on this route. +1 for Stan's comment re: 60 meter ropes and the rap from the top to the bottom of the 2nd pitch. I had ... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : The Diamond : ... : Photo
By: Sam Cannon When: Feb 12, 2014

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Comments: You don't leave racking biners on cams when you clip their slings?


Location: NV : Red Rock : Windy Peak : Photo
By: Sam Cannon When: Feb 10, 2014

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Comments: Freaking rad shot.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Provo Canyon : Provo Canyon Ice : FMR (F**k Me Raw) (WI4)
By: Sam Cannon When: Jan 23, 2014

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Comments: Is the final 200ft curtain also known as "Big Blue," or is that another area entirely?


Location: ID : Castle Rocks : Castle Rock : Castle Rock - South Face : Diamonds in the Rough (5.10)
By: Sam Cannon When: Jan 3, 2014

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Comments: This felt not nearly as strenuous or sustained as Bloody Fingers or Thin Slice in the City. A soft 5.10a, but harder than the 5.9s we did in the area. Very reasonable.


Location: ID : Castle Rocks : South Hills : Bracksiek's Pillar : Alpinista Sista (5.9)
By: Sam Cannon When: Jan 3, 2014

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Comments: 2 days and a bunch of routes later this was, overall, my favorite multi-pitch we did in the area. As Garret said, for the "2nd" pitch put an extended sling on P1 anchors and head up on good holds up the little face. Once you can peak over it you can sling a horn to protect yourself from decking as you do a dynamic move for the lip.


Location: ID : Castle Rocks : East Sector : Comp Rock : Comp Rock - East Face : Mantle Dynamics (5.10b)
By: Sam Cannon When: Jan 3, 2014

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Comments: No way is this harder than Red Rib. 5.10a. You're also on TR the whole time, but this is super fun.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Mescalito : Cat in the Hat (5.6) : Photo
By: Sam Cannon When: Nov 22, 2013

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Comments: I have done this climb and don't remember this spot. Great perspective!


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