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Member Since: May 4, 2012
Last Visit: 22 hours ago
Contact Sam Cannon


Point Rank: # 904
Total Points: 683
Last Year: 533
Last 30 Days: 64
40 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Sam Cannon been climbing?










Contributions


All 668 | Routes 5 | Areas 1 | Photos 107 | Page Improvments 2 | Comments 77 | Posts 101 | Stars 299 | Ratings 76
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Lone Peak Cirque : South Summit Wall : Gold Wall (5.9)
By: Sam Cannon When: 22 hours ago

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Comments: As a followup, I was messaged by a friend who has climbed the route and it seems like I was on route. The bolt I circled on the right in the pic is for "Heart of Gold." It seems I was, in fact, on route, and that the traverse unfolds as you commit to it. My friend confirmed that the "hand crack" mentioned here and in the Ruckman guide is an inaccurate description. From what I could tell the crack leading up to the traverse was a clean fingers/tips crack.

Enjoy!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Lone Peak Cirque : South Summit Wall : Gold Wall (5.9) : ... : Photo
By: Sam Cannon When: 2 days ago

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Comments: So I guess the question is, does the traverse start where the roofs are the largest, left of center, or does it start more from the middle of the wall? And where is that hand crack?


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Lone Peak Cirque : South Summit Wall : Gold Wall (5.9)
By: Sam Cannon When: 2 days ago

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Comments: This page would benefit from a topo! I had a picture of the Ruckman topo and the MP description of the pitches. From a failed attempt at the route here's my take:

Finding P1 can be confusing if you just have the description here which lists the first pitch as a right facing corner. Climb up the gully (there was a finger of snow we had to work around) until you come to a bolt for the belayer. I'm pretty sure this marks the start of the route. Across from the bolt, on the wall, you'll see a small... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Ambush Wall : Bong A Long (5.9+)
By: Sam Cannon When: 6 days ago

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Comments: Fun, but 5.9+ is very inflated. About the same difficulty as the 5.8 in the middle of the wall.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Ambush Wall : Chug A Jug (5.8+)
By: Sam Cannon When: 6 days ago

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Comments: This felt soft for a 5.8, definitely easier than the middle route, which felt true at 5.8.


Location: CA : High Sierra : Mt. Emerson : Southeast Face (aka the Wat... (5.4) : Photo
By: Sam Cannon When: Jul 17, 2014

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Comments: If you look close at about the middle of the ridge (enlarging the pic helps) you'll see a climber.


Location: CA : High Sierra : Photo
By: Sam Cannon When: Jul 17, 2014

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Comments: You catch glimpses of these walls hiking into Bear Creek Spire...beauties!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Dogwood Crag : Quartzite and (No) Stainles... (5.10a)
By: Sam Cannon When: Jul 16, 2014

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Comments: This is the softest 10a trad line in existence. Most 5.8s in LCC feel a grade harder than this. That being said, it IS a very worthwhile climb. Even though it's quite dirty, with enormous amounts of bat scat, it's very unique with fun movement throughout.

Exiting out the chimney above I didn't find an obvious set of chain anchors, so I belayed up my 2nd and we walked off. After setting up the anchor I did notice a set of bolts/chains on a kind of hanging slab which I came up behind but would'v... more >>


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : South Face : Open Book Area : Mechanic's Route (5.8 R)
By: Sam Cannon When: Jun 23, 2014

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Comments: The first pitch is stout for 5.8. I think the moves off the deck alone are somewhat committing for a 5.8 grade. The crux of the entire route for me, and perhaps I traversed too low, was moving up the initial 10 ft or so after finishing the traverse and climbing up to where the crack gets a bit knobbier and wider. Pretty thin climbing there for a bit. That being said I thought the first pitch was awesome.

I echo what was said earlier about the R pitch above, it's not bad and the hardest moves ar... more >>


Location: CA : High Sierra : Ruby Peak
By: Sam Cannon When: Jun 19, 2014

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Comments: Is there a guidebook that covers the area? Or is this being actively developed?


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : West Face : West Face - Right Side : Coffin Nail (5.7+)
By: Sam Cannon When: Jun 19, 2014

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Comments: As a counterpoint to an opinion above, I think it would be cruel to put someone on this as their first 5.8 lead. Stout for the grade and sustained.

That being said, this combined with Traiter Horn -- HOLY FUQ. Coffin + Horn = maybe the best 5.8 I've ever done. Just superb.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : West Face
By: Sam Cannon When: Jun 13, 2014

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Comments: As Dpurf mentioned the Friction Descent is hard to find...we had to google it (good thing my partner had 4g up at the summit) and we found this immensely helpful post on a forum regarding this very thing, copied and pasted here for your benefit:

"From the top of Fingertrip, walk up the slabs and blocky terrain for a few minutes until you see two garage-sized boulders with bushes and trees growing in between and around them off towards the right. Scramble up easy blocks between these two large b... more >>


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : South Face : South Face - Left Side : Left Ski Track (5.6)
By: Sam Cannon When: Jun 13, 2014

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Comments: I found the infamous step around to be quite mellow, I was actually disappointed as it is hyped up quite a bit (though I think the route itself is classic). I found the face-undercling on P1 to be very committing and somewhat PG-13.I could've gone off route I guess, but the moves were thrilling and yeah, committing.

Probably only a handful of sub 5.7 routes that are this incredible. Don't know why anyone would give it less than 4 stars.


Location: CA : High Sierra : Clyde Minaret : Southeast Face (5.8) : Photo
By: Sam Cannon When: Jun 7, 2014

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Comments: Gorgeous light.


Location: CA : High Sierra : Clyde Minaret : Southeast Face (5.8) : Photo
By: Sam Cannon When: Jun 7, 2014

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Comments: Is this the normal or direct start?


Location: CA : San Bernardino Mountains : Frustration Creek : Upper Tier : Hippie Girls (5.7)
By: Sam Cannon When: Jun 7, 2014

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Comments: Great rock, super fun line, especially linking it with Dirty Hippie and Schizo Slab. Nice work on the FAs.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Wasatch Alpine Areas : Mt. Timpanogos : Grunge Couloir (Steep Snow)
By: Sam Cannon When: May 31, 2014

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Comments: Is it classic because of its inclusion in the book "Chuting Gallery," or because it actually is skied frequently? While I myself am not a skier, I thought the Grunge had a reputation for being somewhat dangerous. I don't know anyone offhand that's skied it (unless you have), while a lot of my friends have climbed it. It seems the far more popular descent is Cold Fusion.

But yes, either way a valid point. Beware of the possibility of skiers.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Strone Crag : Old Habits Die Hard (5.10b)
By: Sam Cannon When: May 15, 2014

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Comments: The belay, as described in the beta, makes starting the 2nd pitch very awkward with upward and lateral pull potential on your first few pieces in the crux dihedral, as initially you'll be below and far left of your belayer.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Strone Crag : Starstruck (5.8) : Photo
By: Sam Cannon When: May 4, 2014

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Comments: There's an obvious hand/finger crack (right leaning) over on the left that's barely visible in this pic? Anyone know what route it is?


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Green Adjective Gully : Touch Up (5.9+)
By: Sam Cannon When: May 1, 2014

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Comments: Just as a note to the previous comment: the fixed nut is gone. Also, someone has put a very obvious, bright perma-sling on the pin. This is really unnecessary, as you won't pass the pin without noticing it, and if you're worried about drag just extend your runner. Presto.


Location: UT : House Range : Notch Peak : La Fin du Monde (5.10) : Photo
By: Sam Cannon When: Apr 26, 2014

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Comments: The two best pitches of climbing are up this buttress.


Location: UT : House Range : Notch Peak : La Fin du Monde (5.10)
By: Sam Cannon When: Apr 26, 2014

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Comments: Jim - it was an awesome adventure. Everything from the hike in to the raps down the N face were pretty memorable. Great line as well, beautiful positioning with some awesome sections of climbing. Thanks for putting it up! My partner added some of his pics to the page for posterity.


Location: UT : House Range : Notch Peak : La Fin du Monde (5.10)
By: Sam Cannon When: Apr 19, 2014

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Comments: After pulling the crux moves past the bolts on P4 go left around the arete. The guidebook by James Garret mentions a piton but I didn't see one. What I DID see was another bolt with a long sling on it to my right (off route). The bolt tempted me that way and I succumbed. The rock above the bolt is terrible. Sandy, loose, bad pro - don't go to that bolt. After the crux moves head left wherever it seems easiest, I doubt it makes a whole lot of difference exactly where, around the arete and onto th... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Wasatch Alpine Areas : Pfeifferhorn : North Ridge (5.4 Easy Snow) : Photo
By: Sam Cannon When: Apr 19, 2014

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Comments: Well, it's been to Patagonia now on your back. It's seen some good choss.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Altered States Gully : Altered States (5.9 R) : Photo
By: Sam Cannon When: Apr 13, 2014

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Comments: This is an amazing section of the climb. Runout above small gear and pulling the crux of the route...breathtaking. So good.


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