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Member Since: May 4, 2012
Last Visit: 10 hours ago
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Sam Cannon
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Point Rank: # 734
Total Points: 923
Last Year: 344
Last 30 Days: 9
63 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 954 | Routes 7 | Areas 1 | Photos 140 | Page Improvements 2 | Comments 132 | Posts 121 | Stars 425 | Ratings 126
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Sundial : Sundial Falls (WI3)
By: Sam Cannon When: May 4, 2015

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Comments: 5/4/15 - PAGE EDIT: Name changed from "Frozen In Time" (my creation for lack of a better/established name) to "Sundial Falls" to reflect the new UT Ice Guidebook (thanks Nathan Smith!).


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Highway 50 Corridor : Lover's Leap : Lower Buttress : Surrealistic Pillar Direct (5.10b)
By: Sam Cannon When: Apr 30, 2015

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Comments: What is the actual route? I never traversed anywhere in my attempt, just stayed in the corner on the left and got stymied by a crazy mantel I didn't have the sand to pull. My partner went right just below the roof to pull it up into the tight hands crack.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Highway 50 Corridor : Sugarloaf : Sugarloaf, East Face : Farley (5.9)
By: Sam Cannon When: Apr 27, 2015

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Comments: I placed my #4 down low and had to bump my #3's a few times in the second half. You could definitely use 3 #3's and the #4 if you're wanting to sew it up. Fantastic route!


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Parking Lot Rock : Parking Lot Rock - West : Delay of Game (5.8)
By: Sam Cannon When: Apr 14, 2015

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Comments: Several of the hangars are loose, could definitely use some tightening.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Yellow Wall : Yellow Wall (5.9)
By: Sam Cannon When: Apr 14, 2015

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Comments: Just climbed this yesterday, 4/13/15. The single bolt that is the awful anchor for this route has sun-rotted tat on in. If you're planning on climbing this route, I strongly recommend a) not using the tat and b) bringing your own webbing/sling/whatever to extend the anchor as far as you can both for your second and so that you can have a reasonable assurance you can pull you're rope clean when you're done.


Location: SD : Custer State Park : Cathedral Spires : Spire One : Spire One East Chimney (5.7+)
By: Sam Cannon When: Apr 8, 2015

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Comments: I've done a fair amount of chimneying in my short climbing career, so take this with a grain of salt. I didn't have any 4s or 5s and only placed one 3 and felt fine. I didn't feel a definite crux, just felt like secure 5.8ish chimneying. No OW'ing necessary.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : South Face : Open Book Area : ... : Photo
By: Sam Cannon When: Mar 29, 2015

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Comments: Running it out I felt far more secure in the crack than I would've outside. I learned to climb on gear, however, and all it takes is one trip to Indian Creek to see who the sport climbers and who the trad climbers are. That's somewhat of an unfair dichotomy, but liebacking a crack goes against my "upbringing." Jamming/being inside (even a wide) crack will always feel more secure to me! But whatever it takes to send, my friend :)


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Bad Bananas : Bad Bananas (5.11d PG13) : Photo
By: Sam Cannon When: Mar 29, 2015

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Comments: Do you know what the bolted line that breaks off the 4th pitch to the right of the chimney is?


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Bad Bananas : Bad Bananas (5.11d PG13)
By: Sam Cannon When: Mar 29, 2015

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Comments: With full respect to Perin's comment and the ultimate subjectivity of any climb/experience, I did not feel like this route was a "serious undertaking." It climbs quite quickly and is really well protected. There is a lot of loose rock, but if you've climbed Trilogy or Squawstruck it's nothing worse than those, and certainly not as bad as their (respective) worsts.

The 11d roof was quite hard for me (following, no less), but it's really tightly bolted. The 5.5 pitch is mellow with good bolts. Th... more >>


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : West Face : West Face - Right Side : ... : Photo
By: Sam Cannon When: Mar 27, 2015

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Comments: Yep! Pretty wild stuff. One of the first 5.11s in the US was put up here, in stiff-soled hiking boots!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Squaw Peak : Squawstruck (5.11-)
By: Sam Cannon When: Mar 21, 2015

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Comments: Bolt hangar still missing on P15. Hoping to return in the next few weeks - if I do I'll replace the hangar.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Trilogy Buttress : Gollum's Column (5.10c)
By: Sam Cannon When: Mar 18, 2015

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Comments: I came here looking for this info and didn't find it, so I'll leave this here: no use bringing up supplemental gear for the Column. It's protected really well and there aren't any placements anyways.

I was also wondering if you could link pitches 1 and 2, and I highly recommend not doing this, the drag would be horrendous.

The crux is really short; all in all I honestly felt the crux of Shadow and Flame was harder. While this isn't a great route, it isn't a terrible one either and I ... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Trilogy Buttress : Lord of the Slings (5.9+) : Photo
By: Sam Cannon When: Mar 15, 2015

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Comments: 5 stars for relevant reference


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Squaw Peak : Squawstruck (5.11-) : Photo
By: Sam Cannon When: Mar 15, 2015

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Comments: One of the better from-the-belay shots I've seen. Love it!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Squaw Peak : Squawstruck (5.11-) : Photo
By: Sam Cannon When: Mar 15, 2015

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Comments: Wow, love the setting of the shot.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Green Monster Slab : Green Jello (5.9)
By: Sam Cannon When: Mar 12, 2015

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Comments: This route can be led as 1 pitch with a 60m rope. Full 2 pitches are only around 35m total. 15 draws will get you up. This is a fantastic route, even better if you don't stop 'till the top.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Bridger Jacks : Vision Quest (5.10d PG13)
By: Sam Cannon When: Mar 4, 2015

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Comments: ^ wtf is this on MP.


Location: International : North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : El Potrero Chico : ... : Off the Notch (5.10)
By: Sam Cannon When: Feb 16, 2015

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Comments: The grade of 5.10 comes from the 19th edition of the "Climb El Potrero Chico" guidebook/pamphlet. It felt a touch harder than Celo Rey, but not by much (10- maybe). Do both from the notch for 2 awesome pitches and summits!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Provo Canyon : Provo Canyon Ice : FMR (F**k Me Raw) (WI4)
By: Sam Cannon When: Jan 5, 2015

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Comments: Having just climbed this today, I can confirm that the big blue curtain seen form the road that I'd seen referenced as "Big Blue" is in fact that final pitch to FMR.


Location: SD : Spearfish Canyon : Big Picture Gully : Bradyism Wall : Marsha Gets Creamed (5.10a)
By: Sam Cannon When: Dec 12, 2014

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Comments: Nominated for best route description.


Location: UT : Ibex : Blind Valley : Jack's Crack (5.8)
By: Sam Cannon When: Dec 10, 2014

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Comments: The beginning to pitch 1 is very sandy and friable for several moves that are unprotectable and committing. Lots of loose rock so make sure and wear a helmet.

Despite this heads-up start I thought that there were some fun moments on the climb. The beginning to P2 is quite fun as is the middle/finish of P1. If you're climbing at the Cape, it could be worth the adventure.

A bit of an approach for the quality, but fantastic views from the route.


Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell - South : Eastern Reef Area.. AKA The... : E Crags (DBC Canyon) : Death by Chocolate (5.8)
By: Sam Cannon When: Dec 10, 2014

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Comments: Fair enough! I don't lead harder than 5.10c on gear (still moderate, I know), guess I was thinking of someone who normally seeks out 8s and 9s but isn't a 10 leader. My buddy who is an 11 climber with little slab experience backed off P2 after a fall and I led the rest of the route.

This definitely wet my appetite and I'll be back for sure. What a place! Thanks again for the rad day.


Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell - South : Eastern Reef Area.. AKA The... : E Crags (DBC Canyon) : Death by Chocolate (5.8)
By: Sam Cannon When: Dec 10, 2014

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Comments: This climb is not for moderate leaders. The runouts are, and feel, quite serious on nearly every pitch *except* the short moves for the crux on P3. On the 5.0 pitch there is no pro and the rock quality is the worst on the route...moving to the anchors on the 5.0 pitch was easily the mental crux of the route with no pro below me.

That being said, if you have slab experience and a solid lead-head, the runouts are what make the route (not to mention it's gorgeous, and on one of the more unique loo... more >>


Location: UT : Ibex : Corral Crags : Ewe For Real Wall : Ewe For Real (5.10a/b)
By: Sam Cannon When: Dec 7, 2014

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Comments: Guidebook suggests bringing a big cam. For reference, it's a #4 placement but is not necessary, and I'm no hardman. Easy ground and an easy clip are what it's protecting, so if you don't have the cam do the climb anyways, at least imho :)


Location: UT : Ibex : The Cape : Left Formation : Shark Attack (5.10b)
By: Sam Cannon When: Dec 7, 2014

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Comments: Neither the guidebook nor your description makes any sense. There is a 10- ish route on this wall but it goes up a flaring runnel, and staying left of the bolt line would be quite odd.

The guidebook lists there being two 10b's on this wall, and we only found one, and then a harder, overhanging route to the right that I believe is an 11d (an entire line of bolts is missing that is reported in the guidebook). There are two great 5.9s to the left.


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