Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
a


Member Since: May 4, 2012
Last Visit: 7 hours ago
Contact Sam Cannon


Point Rank: # 829
Total Points: 780
Last Year: 528
Last 30 Days: 34
48 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Sam Cannon been climbing?










Contributions


All 773 | Routes 5 | Areas 1 | Photos 122 | Page Improvements 2 | Comments 99 | Posts 102 | Stars 342 | Ratings 100
Page 1 of 4.  1  2  3  4   Next>   Last>>

Contributed Comments

 

Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Rose Tower : Olive Oil (5.7) : Photo
By: Sam Cannon When: Oct 14, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Probably mid-afternoon, around 2 or 3. Wish I could remember for you! The shot was taken in early November.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Mount Olympus : North Summit : Kamp's Ridge (5.6)
By: Sam Cannon When: Oct 6, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: One more note about the descent -- I've done Kamp's three ways now...first by finishing off with a Traverse of the sub summits to the S Summit and then coming down the standard trail (shuttle car required), the second by traversing the N Summit ridge to the West Slabs descent and coming down that way (again, shuttle required), but the third time, not wanting to use a shuttle car, we tagged the N Summit then backtracked a bit to the top anchors for Valhalla.

For this descent double 60s are requ... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Ed and Terry Wall : Edge-n-Scary (5.11a)
By: Sam Cannon When: Oct 2, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: P1 felt a bit tenuous to me...really fun movement but kinda crap gear with very suspect rock through the roof/corner. Bring 1 or 2 finger sized pieces for the upper portion going to the anchors.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Ed and Terry Wall
By: Sam Cannon When: Sep 20, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: The more I climb beyond the 2 standard routes on this wall (Main Crack and Flakes), the more I love it. Fantastic piece of slab! For those looking at this area for info on those two routes, I'd encourage you to check out the other trad and sport lines on the wall! The sport routes will feel a bit more traditional in that the spacing makes you really concentrate between bolts, especially if you're only a 5.10 climber (like me). It feels like they were probably bolted on lead. Real McCoy and Call ... more >>


Location: WY : Grand Teton National Park : Grand Teton : The Grand Traverse (5.8)
By: Sam Cannon When: Aug 28, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: I did this back in 2012 as a relatively young climber. It remains one of my fondest memories after several years of alpine climbing in other locations. Thought I'd share the writeup I did at the time for our route. This isn't heavy (at all) on beta, but there are lots of pics from each segment of the traverse, and my thoughts about the experience overall that I wrote down, again, as a newbie climber.

stoneheart-home.blogspot.com/2...


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Green Monster Slab : Green Dihedral (5.8)
By: Sam Cannon When: Aug 26, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: 5.9+ because this felt more difficult than Green Monster. Also, as the guy above me notes, there are two loose flakes. I think I could've pulled the second one off, and it was part of my sequence through the crux. Until it's been removed I would be very careful, it would likely slice your rope. The crack needs to be cleaned out--some good placements are nullified by mud caked into the crack.

This climb is rad! Sweet stemming/underclings/liebacks with committing moves above gear and a slighly ov... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : P.A.'s Mother : Mama's Boy (5.8+)
By: Sam Cannon When: Aug 24, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Really high quality climbing that is oddly bolted and very clearly harder than 5.8. Just because it's sandbagged doesn't decrease it's quality, however! Really fun movement with bolts clipped at awkward stances. I was lucky and had a 6'2" gal lead the route first, then I led it on her draws which made clipping quite easier. If you blow it clipping the 2nd bolt there is deck potential.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Willow Canyon : The Guardian : Swiss Edge (5.9+) : Photo
By: Sam Cannon When: Aug 22, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: The route line is very approximate. Put it there mainly to show more or less where the route goes. Route finding is easy, just follow the only line of bolts.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Willow Canyon : The Guardian : Swiss Edge (5.9+)
By: Sam Cannon When: Aug 22, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: First off I really, thoroughly enjoyed this route. It's an impressive looking feature that grabs your eye...in fact we were heading up to climb "Giggles" in the BWC but foreboding looking weather made us hesitate, and low and behold this awesome, conical tower. Glad it was on MP bec I'd never heard of it before.

Epic, but not too lengthy bushwhack to get to the base of the route. The rack recommendation is spot on. We had the smallest (red) X4 up to a #3 C4 with a set of nuts. While we di... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Layer Cake : Cosmic Space Dust Lazers (5.7)
By: Sam Cannon When: Aug 21, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Wanting to move fast I linked pitches 2 and 3 w/ a 70, skipping a bunch of bolts on easy terrain and putting long, extended slings on all the bolts I did clip on P3. No rope drag.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : The Jobsite : The Paper Route (5.8)
By: Sam Cannon When: Aug 21, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: It seems like this is a bit misleading to call 5.8 - the start felt bouldery 5.9 to me. I've just started climbing in Rock Canyon but the grades seem all over the place on the soft-stiff spectrum. To me LCC and BCC feel fairly consistent (internally, as in 5.10s in LCC tend to be in line with each other, etc) with a few outliers. I guess there have been a lot of different route setters in the area which would explain it, though LCC has had that as well.

I'm not jumping on the RC SUX bandwagon, ... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Black Rose : Tip-A-Canoe (5.7)
By: Sam Cannon When: Aug 20, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Climbed this today and thought it was very high quality, despite being incredibly dirty (probably sees very few ascents). Really fun climbing, with the hand crack at the top being very fun (perfect cupped hands) but very, very gritty. Still a 3 star route, imo, at least for the area.

I used a #3 C4 and the orange metolius (both bomber) up top for the anchor. There is a set of chains to the right of the top out which you can use for a single rap to the base of the route with a 60 meter rop... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Black Rose : Attention K-Mart Shoppers (5.9)
By: Sam Cannon When: Aug 20, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: I think the start to this route warrants a 9+ or 10a rating. Felt pretty stiff to me for a 9.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Ed and Terry Wall : Edge of the World (5.8)
By: Sam Cannon When: Aug 18, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: I thought this route was superb. After the two bolts to start the route I only placed gear. I think I stayed right of the last bolts at the top and just followed natural pro which stayed consistent with the overall difficulty of the route. I believe I finished on the anchor to the right of where I should've, but I didn't even know the route finished on bolts until I got back down and looked at MP on my phone.

I highly recommend my all-gear-finish variation. Just follow the cracks, it's a very ... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Ed and Terry Wall : No Way In Hell (5.8)
By: Sam Cannon When: Aug 18, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: This route was an enormously fun lead. A few runout sections kept my attention and overall the climbing was a nice balance of "moderate" and "tricky." Some of the gear I placed wasn't the best, but if you can lead 10- and higher on gear this route shouldn't be too much of a problem. If you're expecting a cruiser 5.8 you're in for a treat!

I'd say singles from your smallest cam up to a #2, with a set of nuts and plenty of runners.


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : The Sorcerer : ... : Photo
By: Sam Cannon When: Aug 17, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Wow. Stunning line!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Galaxy Area : Milky Way Wall : Wormhole (5.10b)
By: Sam Cannon When: Aug 12, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: From the "wormhole" I initially tried to punch right and up, which was really tenuous and hard(er than 10b). Eventually I went just barely to the left of the bolt line, still using the small shallow pocket but utilizing a very positive side pull on the left to good crimps and it felt more like 9+/10a. Whichever way the 10b grade is based on, I found going left to be less scary and still in line with the bolts.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Bolt Slab : Two to Tango (5.10a)
By: Sam Cannon When: Aug 12, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: I thought even the upper portion where I believe this route connects back to the 5.8 felt quite difficult. Overall I felt the route was significantly trickier and far pumpier than Rose is a Rose, which is the only other 10a trad line I've led in Rock Canyon. Quality line, however. Steep, sporty moves. I need to get used to this style of climbing. I got spanked. This ain't LCC off-vertical granite.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Red Pine Crag : Azal Tinto (5.8)
By: Sam Cannon When: Jul 25, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: There is currently webbing/nuts comprising an anchor at the end of the crack on the horn. Seemed solid to me. Really fun climbing that kicks back in such a way to make is almost feel overhanging. Super fun.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Red Pine Crag : Vina Ardanza (5.9)
By: Sam Cannon When: Jul 25, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: This route was stunning. Beautiful line, awesome movement, and the transition from the corner to the steep face was amazing. I think this route is a classic even by LCC standards. Thanks!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Red Pine Crag : Vino Santo (5.9)
By: Sam Cannon When: Jul 25, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Climbed this route today. I LOVED pitch 2. Really fun, thoughtful movement with small runouts that weren't dangerous. If you cleaned some of the plant life from the dihedral it would probably protect a little better, but as it is I don't think it's bad at all. I didn't notice much, if any, loose rock on P2 (maybe it's cleaned up a bit).

At the top of P1 we noticed some tat on a tree to our left in a gully, so we added another rap station (webbing and a locking biner) to the left of the top-out,... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Red Pine Crag
By: Sam Cannon When: Jul 25, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: +1 to everything Mike said. Kudos to Andy Ross and the other guys involved with the FAs, this is a great addition to the trad granite climbing available in SLC. Thoroughly enjoyed the routes we climbed, and I'll definitely be back to tag the rest of them! I felt like the ratings were right on but that overall the climbing was of better quality and more enjoyable than typical 2-star climbing fare in LCC or BCC, so long as you don't mind a little lichen.

We trundled some loose stuff of the climbs... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Lone Peak Cirque : South Summit Wall : Gold Wall (5.9)
By: Sam Cannon When: Jul 24, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: As a followup, I was messaged by a friend who has climbed the route and it seems like I was on route. The bolt I circled on the right in the pic is for "Heart of Gold." It seems I was, in fact, on route, and that the traverse unfolds as you commit to it. My friend confirmed that the "hand crack" mentioned here and in the Ruckman guide is an inaccurate description. From what I could tell the crack leading up to the traverse was a clean fingers/tips crack.

Enjoy!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Lone Peak Cirque : South Summit Wall : Gold Wall (5.9) : ... : Photo
By: Sam Cannon When: Jul 23, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: So I guess the question is, does the traverse start where the roofs are the largest, left of center, or does it start more from the middle of the wall? And where is that hand crack?


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Lone Peak Cirque : South Summit Wall : Gold Wall (5.9)
By: Sam Cannon When: Jul 23, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: This page would benefit from a topo! I had a picture of the Ruckman topo and the MP description of the pitches. From a failed attempt at the route here's my take:

Finding P1 can be confusing if you just have the description here which lists the first pitch as a right facing corner. Climb up the gully (there was a finger of snow we had to work around) until you come to a bolt for the belayer. I'm pretty sure this marks the start of the route. Across from the bolt, on the wall, you'll see a small... more >>


Page 1 of 4.  1  2  3  4   Next>   Last>>