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Member Since: May 4, 2012
Last Visit: 22 hours ago
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Sam Cannon
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Total Points: 932
Last Year: 282
Last 30 Days: 10
63 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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All 1003 | Routes 7 | Areas 1 | Photos 140 | Page Improvements 3 | Comments 138 | Posts 123 | Stars 457 | Ratings 134
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Uinta Mountains : Hayden Peak : Aces High Tower : Aces High (5.9) : Photo
By: Sam Cannon When: Jun 29, 2015

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Comments: So you scramble around the initial headwall? Because I led from the VERY bottom and it was 5.9+ with bad rock and subsequently, bad gear. Then I walked over to the base of the main corner and led up to the chains - thankfully I slung every piece and had little ropedrag. Was I off-route for the start? If so the route needs an updated description, as the first section I climbed was a bit dicey.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Lizard Head Wall : Blue Collar Crack (5.9) : Photo
By: Sam Cannon When: Jun 16, 2015

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Comments: My friend is wearing manufactured crack climbing gloves. There are several companies that make them. I'm surprised if this is the first time you've seen them, but I'm guessing your comment was derisive and not inquisitive.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Breadloaves : Upper Breadloaves - East : Lost Pioneers (5.10a PG13)
By: Sam Cannon When: Jun 13, 2015

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Comments: As of 6.12.15 there are bolted anchors at the top below the OW/finger crack. I highly recommend, as others have, doing the OW section, it's awesome, and somewhere in the 9/10a range. There are anchors easily seen at the top of the OW as well.

I brought 1 #4 C4 and was glad to have it.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Breadloaves : Upper Breadloaves - West : Aspen Leaf (5.10a)
By: Sam Cannon When: Jun 13, 2015

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Comments: When you rap you might as well run up Stretch Marks, a stellar, short 5.9.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Galaxy Area : Tatooine : The Phantom Menace (5.7)
By: Sam Cannon When: May 30, 2015

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Comments: It would be very possible to lead this route on gear, and would be quite fun to do so. I'd bring a set of nuts with a few extra mid sized, and a single set of cams up to maybe a #2 C4. You wouldn't use that many, but I think that's what I noticed in the size range.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Galaxy Area : Tatooine : Triumphal Arch (5.10c)
By: Sam Cannon When: May 30, 2015

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Comments: Dunno why all the fuss about TR'ing. Just have your partner clean it as you belay straight below the final anchors. It's bolted well enough to where there's never much of a pendulum, much less a Tarzan-death-swing into some other wall.

One of the more unique sport routes I've done in RC. Really enjoyed this one.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Sundial : Sundial Falls (WI3)
By: Sam Cannon When: May 4, 2015

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Comments: 5/4/15 - PAGE EDIT: Name changed from "Frozen In Time" (my creation for lack of a better/established name) to "Sundial Falls" to reflect the new UT Ice Guidebook (thanks Nathan Smith!).


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Highway 50 Corridor : Lover's Leap : Lower Buttress : Surrealistic Pillar Direct (5.10b)
By: Sam Cannon When: Apr 30, 2015

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Comments: What is the actual route? I never traversed anywhere in my attempt, just stayed in the corner on the left and got stymied by a crazy mantel I didn't have the sand to pull. My partner went right just below the roof to pull it up into the tight hands crack.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Highway 50 Corridor : Sugarloaf : Sugarloaf, East Face : Farley (5.9)
By: Sam Cannon When: Apr 27, 2015

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Comments: I placed my #4 down low and had to bump my #3's a few times in the second half. You could definitely use 3 #3's and the #4 if you're wanting to sew it up. Fantastic route!


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Parking Lot Rock : Parking Lot Rock - West : Delay of Game (5.8)
By: Sam Cannon When: Apr 14, 2015

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Comments: Several of the hangars are loose, could definitely use some tightening.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Yellow Wall : Yellow Wall (5.9)
By: Sam Cannon When: Apr 14, 2015

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Comments: Just climbed this yesterday, 4/13/15. The single bolt that is the awful anchor for this route has sun-rotted tat on in. If you're planning on climbing this route, I strongly recommend a) not using the tat and b) bringing your own webbing/sling/whatever to extend the anchor as far as you can both for your second and so that you can have a reasonable assurance you can pull you're rope clean when you're done.


Location: SD : Custer State Park : Cathedral Spires : Spire One : Spire One East Chimney (5.7+)
By: Sam Cannon When: Apr 8, 2015

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Comments: I've done a fair amount of chimneying in my short climbing career, so take this with a grain of salt. I didn't have any 4s or 5s and only placed one 3 and felt fine. I didn't feel a definite crux, just felt like secure 5.8ish chimneying. No OW'ing necessary.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : South Face : Open Book Area : ... : Photo
By: Sam Cannon When: Mar 29, 2015

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Comments: Running it out I felt far more secure in the crack than I would've outside. I learned to climb on gear, however, and all it takes is one trip to Indian Creek to see who the sport climbers and who the trad climbers are. That's somewhat of an unfair dichotomy, but liebacking a crack goes against my "upbringing." Jamming/being inside (even a wide) crack will always feel more secure to me! But whatever it takes to send, my friend :)


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Bad Bananas : Bad Bananas (5.11d PG13) : Photo
By: Sam Cannon When: Mar 29, 2015

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Comments: Do you know what the bolted line that breaks off the 4th pitch to the right of the chimney is?


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Bad Bananas : Bad Bananas (5.11d PG13)
By: Sam Cannon When: Mar 29, 2015

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Comments: With full respect to Perin's comment and the ultimate subjectivity of any climb/experience, I did not feel like this route was a "serious undertaking." It climbs quite quickly and is really well protected. There is a lot of loose rock, but if you've climbed Trilogy or Squawstruck it's nothing worse than those, and certainly not as bad as their (respective) worsts.

The 11d roof was quite hard for me (following, no less), but it's really tightly bolted. The 5.5 pitch is mellow with good bolts. Th... more >>


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : West Face : West Face - Right Side : ... : Photo
By: Sam Cannon When: Mar 27, 2015

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Comments: Yep! Pretty wild stuff. One of the first 5.11s in the US was put up here, in stiff-soled hiking boots!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Squaw Peak : Squawstruck (5.11-)
By: Sam Cannon When: Mar 21, 2015

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Comments: Bolt hangar still missing on P15. Hoping to return in the next few weeks - if I do I'll replace the hangar.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Trilogy Buttress : Gollum's Column (5.10c)
By: Sam Cannon When: Mar 18, 2015

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Comments: I came here looking for this info and didn't find it, so I'll leave this here: no use bringing up supplemental gear for the Column. It's protected really well and there aren't any placements anyways.

I was also wondering if you could link pitches 1 and 2, and I highly recommend not doing this, the drag would be horrendous.

The crux is really short; all in all I honestly felt the crux of Shadow and Flame was harder. While this isn't a great route, it isn't a terrible one either and I ... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Trilogy Buttress : Lord of the Slings (5.9+) : Photo
By: Sam Cannon When: Mar 15, 2015

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Comments: 5 stars for relevant reference


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Squaw Peak : Squawstruck (5.11-) : Photo
By: Sam Cannon When: Mar 15, 2015

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Comments: One of the better from-the-belay shots I've seen. Love it!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Squaw Peak : Squawstruck (5.11-) : Photo
By: Sam Cannon When: Mar 15, 2015

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Comments: Wow, love the setting of the shot.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Green Monster Slab : Green Jello (5.9)
By: Sam Cannon When: Mar 12, 2015

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Comments: This route can be led as 1 pitch with a 60m rope. Full 2 pitches are only around 35m total. 15 draws will get you up. This is a fantastic route, even better if you don't stop 'till the top.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Bridger Jacks : Vision Quest (5.10d PG13)
By: Sam Cannon When: Mar 4, 2015

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Comments: ^ wtf is this on MP.


Location: International : North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : El Potrero Chico : ... : Off the Notch (5.10)
By: Sam Cannon When: Feb 16, 2015

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Comments: The grade of 5.10 comes from the 19th edition of the "Climb El Potrero Chico" guidebook/pamphlet. It felt a touch harder than Celo Rey, but not by much (10- maybe). Do both from the notch for 2 awesome pitches and summits!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Provo Canyon : Provo Canyon Ice : FMR (F**k Me Raw) (WI4)
By: Sam Cannon When: Jan 5, 2015

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Comments: Having just climbed this today, I can confirm that the big blue curtain seen form the road that I'd seen referenced as "Big Blue" is in fact that final pitch to FMR.


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