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Member Since: Sep 1, 2005
Last Visit: 3 days ago
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Point Rank: # 215
Total Points: 2,470
Last Year: 725
Last 30 Days: 178
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 1141 | Routes 169 | Areas 25 | Photos 49 | Page Improvements | Comments 160 | Posts 101 | Stars 531 | Ratings 106
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Lover's Leap : East Wall : A Few Dollars More. (5.10+)
By: Salamanizer When: Nov 30, 2014

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Comments: The direct finish to this route is definitely the better way to go.
When making the mantle over the first big roof, I used a #6 Lost Arrow Piton dropped into a downward slopeing crack waist height at the mantle. Dropping the piton in this crack was good enough, no need to pound it in unless you wanted to fix it. There is a hidden round hole at the mantle, you have to feel for it above.

After the mantle, the gear you were spying from below is no good (flaring), however there is a good gr... more >>


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Lover's Leap : East Wall : Easier Said than Done (5.10d R)
By: Salamanizer When: Nov 30, 2014

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Comments: The crux moves of this route are very well protected, however the 5.6ish corner system after the crux is not. You must climb up quite a ways before you find gear, which is good because it sets up the follower so they don't risk a sharp pendulum after unclipping the last bolt and moving through the crux.

Though this corner is super easy climbing, it is often full of leaves, so watch your step. If you fall from the top of the corner near where the first gear is, you could deck if theirs slack in... more >>


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay : Mount St. Helena : The Bear : Uncle Tom (5.11c)
By: Salamanizer When: Nov 30, 2014

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Comments: Why can't we just call this route what it is? 5.12A. 5.11d maybe if you want to go for the "I've got all the moves totally wired" grade.

Kill Uncle start too. I may have indulged in too much stuffing and Halloween candy lately, but .12b it is not. Much harder.


Location: CA : Central Sierra : Calaveras Dome Area : Hammer Dome : Smoke Screen (5.10c)
By: Salamanizer When: Oct 17, 2014

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Comments: Smoke Screen was bolted on lead, hand drilling at natural stances, probably before you were even born. Since then, it has become a minor classic with literally hundreds of accents. I'm not trying to be a dick. It just always sounds that way when you tell someone the truth about something they don't really want to hear. Anyway, if the route is scary and way runnout for you, or you don't feel comfortable leading above the anchor or whatever, then you probably should back off and climb something el... more >>


Location: CA : Central Sierra : Calaveras Dome Area : Calaveras Dome : Silk Road (High Times) (5.11 PG13) : Photo
By: Salamanizer When: Sep 23, 2014

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Comments: It's called Fault Line. 5.12 is a legit grade but keep in mind it's far more slab climbing than crack. It's also quite a bit runnout at the top. It's a lot different climbing than the topo suggests.

A triple set of RP's would be nice. A black Alien would be the biggest cam you get, and only one at that. A few of the green and grey(?) C3's would be awesome.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Lover's Leap : East Wall : Scimitar (5.9 R)
By: Salamanizer When: Sep 8, 2014

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Comments: There are others who upstage routes (as opposed to down grade them) to put a band aid on their bruised egos as well.

Now, I've climbed this route a dozen times with a dozen different partners.
One thing I've nailed down for sure is there are three ways to negotiate the R section. Left, Right and Center.

Left is exposed and steep. The traverse is easy but getting there puts the pucker on. And you're directly over your belayer. Don't get suckered into the bolt further out left. That's for The... more >>


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Sugarloaf : Sugarloaf, West Face : The Podium (5.9 R)
By: Salamanizer When: Sep 2, 2014

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Comments: Ah yes, you are correct! An R rating it does have though a mild one at that. No real need for bolts on top as one can easily just walk off. Probably faster to boot as one 60m or 70m rope will not get you to the base. You'll either have to bring two ropes (drag) or do two rappels from the OYDB anchors. The walk off takes less than two minutes.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Jericho Wall : Jericho Wall (5.8 A2+)
By: Salamanizer When: Sep 2, 2014

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Comments: Fukkin bad muthafukn ass!!!!!


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Pine Creek Canyon : Sheelite Canyon / Pratt's C... : ... : Blast Furnace (5.8)
By: Salamanizer When: Sep 2, 2014

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Comments: Clearly a lack of vision.


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay : The Nut Tree Boulders : Hillcrest Boulders : Mad Cow Boulder
By: Salamanizer When: Aug 31, 2014

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Comments: Mr. Smith, I found your BD chalk bag and brush at the Mad Cow Boulder. Contact me so that I can get it back to you ASAP. If you know someone with a last name of Smith who climbs or has climbed at a Touchstone gym. Let him know I found his chalk bag and brush.

I have a dozen chalk bags and a pile of brushes I've found at VV boulders. I don't need another one.


Location: CA : Central Sierra : Calaveras Dome Area : Calaveras Dome : Sands of Time (5.9)
By: Salamanizer When: Aug 21, 2014

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Comments: That's too much info IMO.

Anyway, I've got plans to re-vamp the entire Cal Domes page and add dozens of routes, pics etc... I just need to find the time. One of these days I suppose.


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay : The Nut Tree Boulders : Hillcrest Boulders : Hidden Boulder : The Rift (V3)
By: Salamanizer When: Aug 13, 2014

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Comments: Yet again a hold broke leaving a big juggy topout for the past several months reducing the grade to maybe V1.

Well, just today I noticed that jug came off leaving only a big reach to a small crimp to the top. This kinda more or less resembles the original character of the route and puts the grade back at about V3. A consensus might be needed to confirm that.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Lover's Leap : East Wall : Scimitar (5.9 R)
By: Salamanizer When: Jul 7, 2014

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Comments: The block did nothing to affect the grade. Most people never even touched the thing in the prior 45 years it was sitting there obviously loose.

The runnout is still 5.6 and quite trivial for anyone with any business being on a 5.9 route.


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay : Mount Diablo State Park : Pine Canyon : The Rock of Ages : Old Bolt Route (5.11b)
By: Salamanizer When: Jul 6, 2014

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Comments: Not safe, don't do it. It's 5.11c X.


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay : Mount Diablo State Park : Pine Canyon : Deliverance Rock : Deliverance (5.12b)
By: Salamanizer When: Jun 24, 2014

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Comments: It's a new route. 5.12+ I don't think it has a name yet but I'm sure it will have some sort of Dueling Banjos/Deliverance type name.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Lover's Leap : East Wall : Labor of Love (5.10b PG13)
By: Salamanizer When: Jun 16, 2014

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Comments: I don't know, I'm not 6 feet tall and the crux move is maybe just a little delicate smear move to reach the hold with a bolt in your face. I've seen short people walk it that weren't 5.11 climbers. You just gotta step up on that dike nubbin and trust the rubber.

As for X or R rated or whatever, yeah right! There's maybe 12' or at most 15' between bolts through the easier sections with all the cruxy moves next to a bolt. To the first bolt is a 5.6 dike hike. I only give it a PG 13 because of al... more >>


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Lover's Leap : East Wall : Bear's Reach (5.7) : Photo
By: Salamanizer When: Jun 12, 2014

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Comments: If you're not willing to accept the potential for injury or death, then you need to consciously consider that when you choose the routes you climb. Not that you're advocating doing so, but no one has the right to alter an existing route to suit your personal needs, in turn dictating the level of risk for those who don't have those same needs. Like the tens of thousands of climbers who have climbed Bears Reach without incident. Remember, some people climb for reasons that include the adventure as... more >>


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Lover's Leap : Lower Buttress : Surrealistic Pillar (5.7) : Photo
By: Salamanizer When: Jun 12, 2014

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Comments: Na, he'd have been fine.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Lover's Leap : East Wall : East Corner (5.10d)
By: Salamanizer When: Jun 9, 2014

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Comments: Indeed, textbook .10a up to the roof, just slightly thin and fiddly gear for your average 5.10 route. You usually don't see thin gear like that until you're in the upper .11's and .12's. But the angle of the wall really keeps the grade in check.

...And the roof goes at 5.10d as stated in the book(The "real" book). Of course, only if you find all the microfeatures;)


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay : Mount Diablo State Park : Pine Canyon : Pagoda Rock : ... : Photo
By: Salamanizer When: Jun 2, 2014

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Comments: A little surface rust is no big deal. The integrity of those anchors is not compromised by it. However, what is sketchy about that anchor is the set up. It's not ideal, especially in that stone. They should be changed, but I don't think they are particularly dangerous at all.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Parkline Slab : Center Route (5.9)
By: Salamanizer When: May 22, 2014

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Comments: Hahaha! That's classic...

I wonder just how many times that's happened and been passed off as fact.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Sugarloaf : Sugarloaf, East Face : Telesis (5.11b PG13)
By: Salamanizer When: May 19, 2014

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Comments: Yeah, It was originally lead by Paul Crawford ground up drilled on stances and called Swamp Thing. It was protected with a piton down low and three bolts on the face. There was no bolted anchor, the route went another 30 or so feet up above the current anchor to a ledge with a gear anchor. The route was retro bolted sometime in the early 90's adding a bolt before the pin, several on the face above and one added next to the last original bolt on the route to create the current anchor and re-named... more >>


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay : Mount Diablo State Park : Pine Canyon : Pagoda Rock : The Pillar (5.8+ PG13)
By: Salamanizer When: Apr 19, 2014

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Comments: A friend of mine had a minor accident on the Pillar route on 4-12-14 where he and his partner had to bail and leave in a hurry. They had to leave some gear on the route which if could be returned by whoever finds it would be appreciated.

The person injured is ok. Just bruised and bloodied.

Please contact me if you're the one who cleaned the gear and we can work out how to get it back.

Thanks!


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay : Mount Diablo State Park : Boy Scout Rocks : Upper Tier : 5.10 Face (5.10)
By: Salamanizer When: Apr 11, 2014

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Comments: Jimi, I have dozens of 6" SS glue in bolts and Hilti glue allotted and set aside for restoring the junk that adorns many of the routes and anchors at Diablo.

Lets pick a day sometime in the near future, get a few people to help us out and go to town on that place to finally put that time bomb crag to rest.

We need to develop a solution to the rock scarring as well. I propose lowering all the current anchors below the lip that aren't already, adding chains if need be and installing TR set up ... more >>


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay : Mount Diablo State Park : Pine Canyon
By: Salamanizer When: Apr 8, 2014

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Comments: When I started climbing there in 2003, there was no trash and very little graffiti. Only a few things scratched in the walls by stoners from days long past. I don't know what changed, but the place is a fucking dump now. I was pretty taken back by it all fairly recently. I mean, it was pristine up until about 5 or 6 years ago.

I know the overwhelming bulk of it isn't climbers, but they aren't doing it much of a service either. I've seen some pretty shotty bolting and a small amount of retrobol... more >>


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