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Member Since: Sep 1, 2005
Last Visit: Apr 15, 2015
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Point Rank: # 223
Total Points: 2,477
Last Year: 460
Last 30 Days: 1
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Salamanizer been climbing?










Contributions


All 1151 | Routes 169 | Areas 25 | Photos 49 | Page Improvements | Comments 167 | Posts 102 | Stars 532 | Ratings 107
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Wheeler Gorge : Goulara (5.10c)
By: Salamanizer When: Apr 14, 2015

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Comments: All these variations show a complete lack of vision by all parties involved.
I know everyone wants to leave their mark behind, but it doesn't take too long before everything just reeks like piss. Na' mean?


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay Area : Mount Diablo State Park : Pine Canyon : Pagoda Rock : Dry December (5.9)
By: Salamanizer When: Feb 7, 2015

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Comments: That's unfortunate. The shade from those trees was the only thing keeping the poison oak at bay and keeping your ropes out of it when throwing them down.


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay Area : Mount Diablo State Park : Pine Canyon : Comment : Photo
By: Salamanizer When: Jan 21, 2015

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Comments: Sweet, sounds good. A good way to scare the shit out of the little potheads who gather in that cave too.


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay Area : Mount Diablo State Park : Pine Canyon : Comment : Photo
By: Salamanizer When: Jan 20, 2015

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Comments: The pocketed face up to the stoner cave has been free soloed many times. Seemed pretty easy to me. The route must continue up past the cave I assume?


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : I-80 Corridor : Auburn Cliffs : Scale Wall : Three Finger Salute (5.7)
By: Salamanizer When: Jan 11, 2015

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Comments: Whats the deal with this hanger? Did it fall out due to crap rock around it or did someone remove it for some reason, or was the nut just loose until it fell off or a noob removed it for whatever reason?

I have a ton of bolts and can replace it or give them to someone who frequents the area more than I do so they can replace it. Anyone know if the rock is in good shape and can support a sleeve bolt or would a glue-in be a better option. I have both.


Location: CA : San Diego County : Corte Madera
By: Salamanizer When: Jan 6, 2015

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Comments: Need some help with route identification as I don't have a guide for the area.
We drove down from northern Cali to sample some of the rock you guys have down there and climbed at El Cajon and Corte Madera for a few days last week.


At Corte Madera, not really knowing what we were getting on, we first climbed a route that starts out as thin slabby face with some solid .11+ moves to a tree where the route then followed a thin crack out left to the belay. Several mediocre and fairly contrived pi... more >>


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay Area : Mount St. Helena : The Bear : Uncle Tom (5.11c)
By: Salamanizer When: Jan 4, 2015

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Comments: The consensus does not call it 5.12 because of your single rating of 5.11c, which brought the consensus down to .11d. The fact that you didn't onsight this route is further evidence of my point. You had to "dial the beta" on the first go before sending it on your second try. Then you downgraded it because it "felt" easier after knowing the beta. I'd suspect with your abilities, if it truly was a 5.11c, you'd have had no problem with the onsight, as I did at 5.12a. I would agree though, there are... more >>


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Highway 50 Corridor : Lover's Leap : East Wall : A Few Dollars More. (5.10+)
By: Salamanizer When: Nov 30, 2014

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Comments: The direct finish to this route is definitely the better way to go.
When making the mantle over the first big roof, I used a #6 Lost Arrow Piton dropped into a downward slopeing crack waist height at the mantle. Dropping the piton in this crack was good enough, no need to pound it in unless you wanted to fix it. There is a hidden round hole at the mantle, you have to feel for it above.

After the mantle, the gear you were spying from below is no good (flaring), however there is a good gr... more >>


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Highway 50 Corridor : Lover's Leap : East Wall : Easier Said than Done (5.10d R)
By: Salamanizer When: Nov 30, 2014

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Comments: The crux moves of this route are very well protected, however the 5.6ish corner system after the crux is not. You must climb up quite a ways before you find gear, which is good because it sets up the follower so they don't risk a sharp pendulum after unclipping the last bolt and moving through the crux.

Though this corner is super easy climbing, it is often full of leaves, so watch your step. If you fall from the top of the corner near where the first gear is, you could deck if theirs slack in... more >>


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay Area : Mount St. Helena : The Bear : Uncle Tom (5.11c)
By: Salamanizer When: Nov 30, 2014

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Comments: Why can't we just call this route what it is? 5.12A. 5.11d maybe if you want to go for the "I've got all the moves totally wired" grade.

Kill Uncle start too. I may have indulged in too much stuffing and Halloween candy lately, but .12b it is not. Much harder.


Location: CA : Central Sierra : Calaveras Dome Area : Hammer Dome : Smoke Screen (5.10c)
By: Salamanizer When: Oct 17, 2014

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Comments: Smoke Screen was bolted on lead, hand drilling at natural stances, probably before you were even born. Since then, it has become a minor classic with literally hundreds of accents. I'm not trying to be a dick. It just always sounds that way when you tell someone the truth about something they don't really want to hear. Anyway, if the route is scary and way runnout for you, or you don't feel comfortable leading above the anchor or whatever, then you probably should back off and climb something el... more >>


Location: CA : Central Sierra : Calaveras Dome Area : Calaveras Dome : Silk Road (High Times) (5.11 PG13) : Photo
By: Salamanizer When: Sep 23, 2014

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Comments: It's called Fault Line. 5.12 is a legit grade but keep in mind it's far more slab climbing than crack. It's also quite a bit runnout at the top. It's a lot different climbing than the topo suggests.

A triple set of RP's would be nice. A black Alien would be the biggest cam you get, and only one at that. A few of the green and grey(?) C3's would be awesome.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Highway 50 Corridor : Lover's Leap : East Wall : Scimitar (5.9 R)
By: Salamanizer When: Sep 8, 2014

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Comments: There are others who upstage routes (as opposed to down grade them) to put a band aid on their bruised egos as well.

Now, I've climbed this route a dozen times with a dozen different partners.
One thing I've nailed down for sure is there are three ways to negotiate the R section. Left, Right and Center.

Left is exposed and steep. The traverse is easy but getting there puts the pucker on. And you're directly over your belayer. Don't get suckered into the bolt further out left. That's for The... more >>


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Highway 50 Corridor : Sugarloaf : Sugarloaf, West Face : The Podium (5.9 R)
By: Salamanizer When: Sep 2, 2014

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Comments: Ah yes, you are correct! An R rating it does have though a mild one at that. No real need for bolts on top as one can easily just walk off. Probably faster to boot as one 60m or 70m rope will not get you to the base. You'll either have to bring two ropes (drag) or do two rappels from the OYDB anchors. The walk off takes less than two minutes.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Jericho Wall : Jericho Wall (5.8 A2+)
By: Salamanizer When: Sep 2, 2014

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Comments: Fukkin bad muthafukn ass!!!!!


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Pine Creek Canyon : Sheelite Canyon / Pratt's C... : ... : Blast Furnace (5.8)
By: Salamanizer When: Sep 2, 2014

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Comments: Clearly a lack of vision.


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay Area : The Nut Tree Boulders : Hillcrest Boulders : Mad Cow Boulder
By: Salamanizer When: Aug 31, 2014

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Comments: Mr. Smith, I found your BD chalk bag and brush at the Mad Cow Boulder. Contact me so that I can get it back to you ASAP. If you know someone with a last name of Smith who climbs or has climbed at a Touchstone gym. Let him know I found his chalk bag and brush.

I have a dozen chalk bags and a pile of brushes I've found at VV boulders. I don't need another one.


Location: CA : Central Sierra : Calaveras Dome Area : Calaveras Dome : Sands of Time (5.9)
By: Salamanizer When: Aug 21, 2014

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Comments: That's too much info IMO.

Anyway, I've got plans to re-vamp the entire Cal Domes page and add dozens of routes, pics etc... I just need to find the time. One of these days I suppose.


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay Area : The Nut Tree Boulders : Hillcrest Boulders : Hidden Boulder : The Rift (V3)
By: Salamanizer When: Aug 13, 2014

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Comments: Yet again a hold broke leaving a big juggy topout for the past several months reducing the grade to maybe V1.

Well, just today I noticed that jug came off leaving only a big reach to a small crimp to the top. This kinda more or less resembles the original character of the route and puts the grade back at about V3. A consensus might be needed to confirm that.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Highway 50 Corridor : Lover's Leap : East Wall : Scimitar (5.9 R)
By: Salamanizer When: Jul 7, 2014

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Comments: The block did nothing to affect the grade. Most people never even touched the thing in the prior 45 years it was sitting there obviously loose.

The runnout is still 5.6 and quite trivial for anyone with any business being on a 5.9 route.


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay Area : Mount Diablo State Park : Pine Canyon : The Rock of Ages : Old Bolt Route (5.11b)
By: Salamanizer When: Jul 6, 2014

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Comments: Not safe, don't do it. It's 5.11c X.


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay Area : Mount Diablo State Park : Pine Canyon : Deliverance Rock : Deliverance (5.12b)
By: Salamanizer When: Jun 24, 2014

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Comments: It's a new route. 5.12+ I don't think it has a name yet but I'm sure it will have some sort of Dueling Banjos/Deliverance type name.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Highway 50 Corridor : Lover's Leap : East Wall : Labor of Love (5.10b PG13)
By: Salamanizer When: Jun 16, 2014

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Comments: I don't know, I'm not 6 feet tall and the crux move is maybe just a little delicate smear move to reach the hold with a bolt in your face. I've seen short people walk it that weren't 5.11 climbers. You just gotta step up on that dike nubbin and trust the rubber.

As for X or R rated or whatever, yeah right! There's maybe 12' or at most 15' between bolts through the easier sections with all the cruxy moves next to a bolt. To the first bolt is a 5.6 dike hike. I only give it a PG 13 because of al... more >>


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Highway 50 Corridor : Lover's Leap : East Wall : ... : Photo
By: Salamanizer When: Jun 12, 2014

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Comments: If you're not willing to accept the potential for injury or death, then you need to consciously consider that when you choose the routes you climb. Not that you're advocating doing so, but no one has the right to alter an existing route to suit your personal needs, in turn dictating the level of risk for those who don't have those same needs. Like the tens of thousands of climbers who have climbed Bears Reach without incident. Remember, some people climb for reasons that include the adventure as... more >>


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Highway 50 Corridor : Lover's Leap : Lower Buttress : ... : Photo
By: Salamanizer When: Jun 12, 2014

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Comments: Na, he'd have been fine.


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