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Member Since: Sep 1, 2005
Last Visit: 3 days ago
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Point Rank: # 230
Total Points: 2,283
Last Year: 891
Last 30 Days: 77
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 1070 | Routes 156 | Areas 25 | Photos 40 | Page Improvments | Comments 148 | Posts 92 | Stars 511 | Ratings 98
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Lover's Leap : East Wall : Scimitar (5.9)
By: Salamanizer When: Jul 7, 2014

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Comments: The block did nothing to affect the grade. Most people never even touched the thing in the prior 45 years it was sitting there obviously loose.

The runnout is still 5.6 and quite trivial for anyone with any business being on a 5.9 route.


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay : Mount Diablo State Park : Pine Canyon : The Rock of Ages : Old Bolt Route (5.11b)
By: Salamanizer When: Jul 6, 2014

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Comments: Not safe, don't do it. It's 5.11c X.


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay : Mount Diablo State Park : Pine Canyon : Deliverance Rock : Deliverance (5.12b)
By: Salamanizer When: Jun 24, 2014

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Comments: It's a new route. 5.12+ I don't think it has a name yet but I'm sure it will have some sort of Dueling Banjos/Deliverance type name.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Lover's Leap : East Wall : Labor of Love (5.10b PG13)
By: Salamanizer When: Jun 16, 2014

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Comments: I don't know, I'm not 6 feet tall and the crux move is maybe just a little delicate smear move to reach the hold with a bolt in your face. I've seen short people walk it that weren't 5.11 climbers. You just gotta step up on that dike nubbin and trust the rubber.

As for X or R rated or whatever, yeah right! There's maybe 12' or at most 15' between bolts through the easier sections with all the cruxy moves next to a bolt. To the first bolt is a 5.6 dike hike. I only give it a PG 13 because of al... more >>


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Lover's Leap : East Wall : Bear's Reach (5.7) : Photo
By: Salamanizer When: Jun 12, 2014

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Comments: If you're not willing to accept the potential for injury or death, then you need to consciously consider that when you choose the routes you climb. Not that you're advocating doing so, but no one has the right to alter an existing route to suit your personal needs, in turn dictating the level of risk for those who don't have those same needs. Like the tens of thousands of climbers who have climbed Bears Reach without incident. Remember, some people climb for reasons that include the adventure as... more >>


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Lover's Leap : Lower Buttress : Surrealistic Pillar (5.7) : Photo
By: Salamanizer When: Jun 12, 2014

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Comments: Na, he'd have been fine.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Lover's Leap : East Wall : East Corner (5.10d)
By: Salamanizer When: Jun 9, 2014

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Comments: Indeed, textbook .10a up to the roof, just slightly thin and fiddly gear for your average 5.10 route. You usually don't see thin gear like that until you're in the upper .11's and .12's. But the angle of the wall really keeps the grade in check.

...And the roof goes at 5.10d as stated in the book(The "real" book). Of course, only if you find all the microfeatures;)


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay : Mount Diablo State Park : Pine Canyon : Pagoda Rock : ... : Photo
By: Salamanizer When: Jun 2, 2014

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Comments: A little surface rust is no big deal. The integrity of those anchors is not compromised by it. However, what is sketchy about that anchor is the set up. It's not ideal, especially in that stone. They should be changed, but I don't think they are particularly dangerous at all.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Parkline Slab : Center Route (5.9)
By: Salamanizer When: May 22, 2014

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Comments: Hahaha! That's classic...

I wonder just how many times that's happened and been passed off as fact.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Sugarloaf : Sugarloaf, East Face : Telesis (5.11b PG13)
By: Salamanizer When: May 19, 2014

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Comments: Yeah, It was originally lead by Paul Crawford ground up drilled on stances and called Swamp Thing. It was protected with a piton down low and three bolts on the face. There was no bolted anchor, the route went another 30 or so feet up above the current anchor to a ledge with a gear anchor. The route was retro bolted sometime in the early 90's adding a bolt before the pin, several on the face above and one added next to the last original bolt on the route to create the current anchor and re-named... more >>


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay : Mount Diablo State Park : Pine Canyon : Pagoda Rock : The Pillar (5.8+ PG13)
By: Salamanizer When: Apr 19, 2014

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Comments: A friend of mine had a minor accident on the Pillar route on 4-12-14 where he and his partner had to bail and leave in a hurry. They had to leave some gear on the route which if could be returned by whoever finds it would be appreciated.

The person injured is ok. Just bruised and bloodied.

Please contact me if you're the one who cleaned the gear and we can work out how to get it back.

Thanks!


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay : Mount Diablo State Park : Boy Scout Rocks : Upper Tier : 5.10 Face (5.10)
By: Salamanizer When: Apr 11, 2014

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Comments: Jimi, I have dozens of 6" SS glue in bolts and Hilti glue allotted and set aside for restoring the junk that adorns many of the routes and anchors at Diablo.

Lets pick a day sometime in the near future, get a few people to help us out and go to town on that place to finally put that time bomb crag to rest.

We need to develop a solution to the rock scarring as well. I propose lowering all the current anchors below the lip that aren't already, adding chains if need be and installing TR set up ... more >>


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay : Mount Diablo State Park : Pine Canyon
By: Salamanizer When: Apr 8, 2014

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Comments: When I started climbing there in 2003, there was no trash and very little graffiti. Only a few things scratched in the walls by stoners from days long past. I don't know what changed, but the place is a fucking dump now. I was pretty taken back by it all fairly recently. I mean, it was pristine up until about 5 or 6 years ago.

I know the overwhelming bulk of it isn't climbers, but they aren't doing it much of a service either. I've seen some pretty shotty bolting and a small amount of retrobol... more >>


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay : Mount Diablo State Park : Pine Canyon : Comment : Photo
By: Salamanizer When: Apr 8, 2014

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Comments: Why is this route not yet added to the routes database? Come on man, spill the beans!!!


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Woodfords Canyon : The Fortress : Wood Hood : The Hand of God (5.11+)
By: Salamanizer When: Mar 26, 2014

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Comments: I wouldn't read too much into anything I say. The first pitch is certainly a bit crispy, but I didn't find it to be too bad. I never said it was strait forward, anything but. Pretty unique really.

I said the (I guess) 4th pitch roof was strait forward. Bomber jambs, good feet, short crux. I don't think height has much to do with it. The guy that followed me liebacked the whole thing which looked hard. I just sunk my hands in those bomber jambs and the hand of god itself couldn't have pulled me... more >>


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Phantom Spires : Lower Spire : The Siren (5.12-)
By: Salamanizer When: Mar 24, 2014

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Comments: The roof is definitely harder than 5.11d. Up to the first anchor is one of the best 5.11 face routes around and is very sustained.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Woodfords Canyon : The Fortress : Wood Hood : Smearing for Jesus (5.11b)
By: Salamanizer When: Mar 24, 2014

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Comments: Fun route that actually takes some pure friction. A little grainy but not too bad, like Jtree kinda. The first half is really tightly bolted and I ended up skipping a few bolts cuz I only had 7 draws. Shouldn't have bothered because the difficulties subside as soon as you can reach the arÍte and a bolt or two can be substituted with gear up higher.

Didn't find any use for micro anything (nuts/cams). A couple finger sized pieces do the trick.

Soft for the grade.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Woodfords Canyon : The Fortress : Wood Hood : The Hand of God (5.11+)
By: Salamanizer When: Mar 24, 2014

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Comments: Pretty classic climbing in the dihedral. Didn't find the first pitch to be much drama. A short crux and fairly obvious, well protected climbing.

The main corners first pitch is pretty bad ass going around the roof but I thought it was too strait forward with locker fingers and jambs and bomber feet to be anything harder than 5.10c/d so don't be intimidated by it. The pitch in the corner above was much harder and far more sustained.


Location: CA : Sacramento Valley/Foothills : The Nut Tree Boulders : Hillcrest Boulders : Mother Boulder : Space Lord (V0 R)
By: Salamanizer When: Feb 18, 2014

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Comments: One of my favorites. I see people trying this moderate problem all the time. People capable of climbing things much harder. They climb up, then down, searching left, then right. Then they downclimb defeated only to try again, commit and find a new confidence in themselves they didn't know they had. The huge smile on their face and sudden screams of exhilaration say it all.

Classic for sure.


Location: CA : Sacramento Valley/Foothills : The Nut Tree Boulders : Hillcrest Boulders : Mother Boulder : Crispy Critters (V1+)
By: Salamanizer When: Feb 18, 2014

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Comments: Fixed that for ya Chris.


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay : Mount Diablo State Park : Pine Canyon : The Rock of Ages : West Face (5.8+)
By: Salamanizer When: Jan 19, 2014

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Comments: Those anchors used to be bomber, all three of them. The rock is solid in that cave and those hangers, although they look like rusty old leepers, are actually rusty newer leeper hangers that are absolutely bomber.
There also used to be a SS SMC hanger but that one was removed after someone without the experience to tell the difference from a good anchor and a bad one decided to smash the hangers and move the anchor to the upper cave. They also lacked the skills and courtesy to remove them proper... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Middle Cathedral Rock : Paradise Lost (5.10a PG13)
By: Salamanizer When: Jan 8, 2014

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Comments: What do you mean by "remedied"?


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Woodfords Canyon : One Of These Days Buttress : Livin' A Dream (5.12b)
By: Salamanizer When: Dec 26, 2013

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Comments: Thanks for adding this route. I climbed it a couple years ago without knowing what it was (not on the topo and no one seemed to know anything about it).

It remains one of my more proud onsights. Though the grade is near but not technically above my onsight grade, I thought the climbing itself was sustained not only in difficulty, but in perplexity too. It's very cryptic and hard to read, but that only adds to the climbing which I thought was pretty damn good. There is some flaky rock still, bu... more >>


Location: CA : Sacramento Valley/Foothills : The Nut Tree Boulders : Hillcrest Boulders : Scott's Rock : Scott's Traverse (V9)
By: Salamanizer When: Nov 29, 2013

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Comments: ^^^
Correct you are. Fixed!


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay : Mount Diablo State Park : Pine Canyon : Pagoda Rock : The Pillar (5.8+ PG13)
By: Salamanizer When: Nov 20, 2013

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Comments: It's another route, see "The Unsung War".

You can finish via these bolts from the Pillar if you wanted too as a variation that goes at about 5.8.


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