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Member Since: Oct 4, 2009
Last Visit: 10 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 1,259
Total Points: 479
Last Year: 85
Last 30 Days: 2
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has S. Neoh been climbing?










Contributions


All 996 | Routes | Areas | Photos | Page Improvments | Comments 479 | Posts 243 | Stars 138 | Ratings 136
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NH : Rumney : Orange Crush : Tropicana (5.11a) : Photo
By: S. Neoh When: 1 day ago

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Comments: Yeah, it is really fine and fun. Hard off the belay anchors and exposed, airy finish which requires one to "keep it together". Real gem of a pitch!


Location: NH : Rumney : New Wave : Salley's Alley (5.11c)
By: S. Neoh When: 5 days ago

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Comments: Nah, Nick and Eric, it was more like I was cocky and knew a lot less than I do now. TomA basically gave me the Beta for every move and I rehearsed the route quite a bit (thanks to his infinite patience) before redpointing it in '94 or '95.
I tried to repeat the route a number of years back and fell off at the bulge. It felt HARD! I guess I have forgotten most of the Beta and not nearly in the shape I need to be.
At the same crag, I enjoyed Valle Daze and Retro Spade a lot even tho I never red... more >>


Location: NH : Rumney : New Wave : Weevil Knevil (5.12a)
By: S. Neoh When: Jul 20, 2014

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Comments: Agreed. I am 5'5" and I make the reach readily with the left hand undercling and a high right foot. The end is the business IMHO.


Location: NH : Rumney : The Meadows : Center Section : Misdemeanor (5.10c)
By: S. Neoh When: Jul 15, 2014

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Comments: You're too funny Ming! Wonderful to see you, your lovely wife, and adorable baby on Sat!! Everyone seems happy and enjoying life. Fantastic.
We traversed in from the right to end the climb just below the anchors, not unlike what I do on Rhinobucket (but that seems harder). I do not believe I grabbed anything that was loose or flexy. Eric and OM did not mention anything either.
Definitely not as hard as No Money Down or the roof of Bonehead Roof.



Location: NH : Rumney : The Meadows : Center Section : Misdemeanor (5.10c)
By: S. Neoh When: Jul 12, 2014

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Comments: I climbed the bolted version today in spite of constant traffic on it most of the day. Nice climb. Will get better with traffic and the top cleans up (after the last bolt). The start was bone dry, pretty cool to be able to start the climb from the trail rather than the block for Rhinobucket.
Great bolt job!
I thought the difficulty is about the same as for Rhinobucket. A bunch of others thought the same too. We all were on it for the first time, on lead.


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Military Wall : In the Light (5.10)
By: S. Neoh When: Jun 17, 2014

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Comments: If memory serves, the good holds on this route are a little hard to find with lots of side pulls and underclings. A combination of tech and pump. Good endurance would serve you well here. Significantly harder than .10a, I feel .10c is a fair grade. Not that much easier than Fuzzy. Great route, but not so good as first warmup of the day.


Location: NH : Rumney : 5.8 Crag : Sky Pilot (5.11b)
By: S. Neoh When: Jun 5, 2014

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Comments: Huh. How interesting! Quite a change after so many years with just three bolts.


Location: NH : Rumney : The Meadows : Center Section : Misdemeanor (5.10c)
By: S. Neoh When: Jun 4, 2014

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Comments: Exactly what Mark said. I think final call rests with Alan in this case.
Just to be clear, I am not for putting in a bolt below the crack on Retrospade (besides Tom is against it the last time we spoke). And I am for leaving Sky Pilot as is (perhaps 1 to 3 pieces after the 3rd bolt), since the gear is good and straightforward.


Location: NH : Rumney : The Meadows : Center Section : Misdemeanor (5.10c)
By: S. Neoh When: Jun 4, 2014

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Comments: Cool. Anything to keep it cleaner. Good climbing but looked dirty for the past 10 years or so. Putting in a new, drier start would be great.
Can't wait to check it out.


Location: NH : Rumney : The North West Territories : B-B-Bubbas link-up (5.9+)
By: S. Neoh When: May 21, 2014

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Comments: Sounds like a fun warmup and linkup. Thanks for the post, Ward and Mark. I can't wait to get on it.


Location: NH : Rumney
By: S. Neoh When: Apr 28, 2014

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Comments: Maybe the falcons, on seeing the mobs of climbers at Main Cliff, decided not to nest here. Either way, I am not sure I want to hang out at Main Cliff yet due to the instability.


Location: KY : Red River Gorge
By: S. Neoh When: Apr 17, 2014

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Comments: Get this - https://itunes.apple.com/us/book/red-river-gorge-south/id622>>> and maybe this https://itunes.apple.com/us/book/red-river-gorge-north/id674>>>
Ray does a great job with guide books.

Some say Wild Yet Tasty at Left Flank is a gimme .12a. I did/do not think so.
I think you will have a wonderful time if you make time to get on the MANY amazing .10 and .11 routes at The Red and try to onsight/flash them all. I've stopped working routes at The Red, just too much fun try... more >>


Location: NH : Rumney : The North West Territories : Scrubbing Bubbas (5.11a)
By: S. Neoh When: Feb 6, 2014

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Comments: I've never been on Bubbas but I've been on Schultz and Perfectly Blunt. I thought both were so much harder than say, Waimea the climb or Dirty Dozen, both .10d. Even "cheating" on Perfectly Blunt by going right after the last draw was desperate for me.


Location: NH : Rumney : Orange Crush : Orangahang (5.12a/b) : Photo
By: S. Neoh When: Jan 18, 2014

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Comments: Right on both counts, Lee.


Location: NH : Rumney : Orange Crush : Orangahang (5.12a/b) : Photo
By: S. Neoh When: Jan 18, 2014

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Comments: Lee, stop climbing like a shortie and you will find this .12a :)
VD is more techie but less enduro than this one at .12a, IMO. And VD is more spicy on lead to boot.


Location: NH : Rumney : Orange Crush : Orangahang (5.12a/b) : Photo
By: S. Neoh When: Jan 17, 2014

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Comments: This route is my nemesis. I LIKE to think it is WAY easier if I were 6 inches taller but I do not think so. I have heard it call .11d by TALL climbers but I think .12a is right for most. I just got to get more fit to send. A power-endurance problem for me.


Location: NH : Rumney : Jimmy Cliff : Things As They Are Now (5.12a) : Photo
By: S. Neoh When: Jan 6, 2014

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Comments: Interesting. I am wondering if it could work for me. Not with those shoes tho for me. I have them and I do not think I can get them to stick that heel hook. With my other shoe (Katana Lace) I might be able to.


Location: CA : Redwood Coast : Lost Rocks : Photo
By: S. Neoh When: Jan 2, 2014

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Comments: NICE. I like this pic! It captures the place and moment very well.


Location: NH : Rumney : Waimea : Flying Hawaiian (5.11b) : Photo
By: S. Neoh When: Dec 13, 2013

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Comments: FA was in '87. Bolts replaced the pins in '94(?).


Location: NH : Rumney : Main Cliff : Underdog (5.10a)
By: S. Neoh When: Dec 10, 2013

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Comments: Pretty sure the technical crux is moving left around the fourth bolt using the marginal left foothold. Shorties like me (5'5") and most shorter (female) climbers feel this way. Foot work should solve the "reach problem" to the huge jug on the rail high up on the climb.


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Chocolate Factory : Team Tough on Tour (5.11a)
By: S. Neoh When: Dec 9, 2013

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Comments: Excellent, DQ.
I love the name of the route. How fitting.


Location: NH : Rumney : Armed and Dangerous Area (M... : The Big Easy (5.7)
By: S. Neoh When: Dec 7, 2013

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Comments: Yeah, SS is nice. Be ready to clean off the cob webs on the way up tho. If memory serves, the gear on this is relatively easy to place and bomber.
For more adventure, try Boats From Cuba and deal with blocks (some loose) and crimps instead :)


Location: NH : Rumney : Main Cliff : Sweet Polly Purebred (5.10c)
By: S. Neoh When: Dec 4, 2013

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Comments: How is that even possible? :)

No worries, Nick, we past-our-prime kind still find ways to get up steep Rumney routes .... but only because we are crafty. :) Eric, Coach Paul, SteveA, even Al(!) still show up and not embarrass ourselves too badly.


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Left Flank : To Defy The Laws Of Traditi... (5.10a)
By: S. Neoh When: Nov 25, 2013

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Comments: I agree, obiss, at the risk of pissing more people off.
I am a shade under 5'5", the climb felt .10a/b to me but that was a while back. Chalk city up high on the route. Yuck.


Location: NH : Rumney : The Hinterlands : Nicky's Crack (5.11d)
By: S. Neoh When: Nov 24, 2013

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Comments: Unless you are perverted like Mark, bring your most techie shoes and best footwork for this one. They will come in handy for the 1 or 2 moves that make the grade.


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