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Member Since: Oct 4, 2009
Last Visit: 18 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 1,232
Total Points: 471
Last Year: 119
Last 30 Days: 1
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All (967) | Routes | Areas | Photos | Comments (470) | Posts (227) | Stars (136) | Ratings (134)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: KY : Red River Gorge
By: S. Neoh When: 1 day ago

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Comments: Get this - https://itunes.apple.com/us/book/red-river-gorge-south/id622>>> and maybe this https://itunes.apple.com/us/book/red-river-gorge-north/id674>>>
Ray does a great job with guide books.

Some say Wild Yet Tasty at Left Flank is a gimme .12a. I did/do not think so.
I think you will have a wonderful time if you make time to get on the MANY amazing .10 and .11 routes at The Red and try to onsight/flash them all. I've stopped working routes at The Red, just too much fun try... more >>


Location: NH : Rumney : The North West Territories : Scrubbing Bubbas (5.11a)
By: S. Neoh When: Feb 6, 2014

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Comments: I've never been on Bubbas but I've been on Schultz and Perfectly Blunt. I thought both were so much harder than say, Waimea the climb or Dirty Dozen, both .10d. Even "cheating" on Perfectly Blunt by going right after the last draw was desperate for me.


Location: NH : Rumney : Orange Crush : Orangahang (5.12a/b) : Photo
By: S. Neoh When: Jan 18, 2014

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Comments: Right on both counts, Lee.


Location: NH : Rumney : Orange Crush : Orangahang (5.12a/b) : Photo
By: S. Neoh When: Jan 18, 2014

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Comments: Lee, stop climbing like a shortie and you will find this .12a :)
VD is more techie but less enduro than this one at .12a, IMO. And VD is more spicy on lead to boot.


Location: NH : Rumney : Orange Crush : Orangahang (5.12a/b) : Photo
By: S. Neoh When: Jan 17, 2014

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Comments: This route is my nemesis. I LIKE to think it is WAY easier if I were 6 inches taller but I do not think so. I have heard it call .11d by TALL climbers but I think .12a is right for most. I just got to get more fit to send. A power-endurance problem for me.


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Muir Valley : The Solarium : Air Ride Equipped (5.11a)
By: S. Neoh When: Jan 13, 2014

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Comments: J, you should only need to worrying about getting past the first two bolts. The rest is a cruise if you are sending Rumney hard .10's on lead. Try Manifest to the right of this route too. It is good, in the .11c/d range for people over 5'5" or so.
This route sees a lot of traffic every day and it is located in Muir. I will be extremely surprised if RickW does not make sure the h/w on this route is in good shape all the time.


Location: NH : Rumney : Jimmy Cliff : Things As They Are Now (5.12a) : Photo
By: S. Neoh When: Jan 6, 2014

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Comments: Interesting. I am wondering if it could work for me. Not with those shoes tho for me. I have them and I do not think I can get them to stick that heel hook. With my other shoe (Katana Lace) I might be able to.


Location: CA : Redwood Coast : Lost Rocks : Photo
By: S. Neoh When: Jan 2, 2014

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Comments: NICE. I like this pic! It captures the place and moment very well.


Location: NH : Rumney : Waimea : Flying Hawaiian (5.11b) : Photo
By: S. Neoh When: Dec 13, 2013

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Comments: FA was in '87. Bolts replaced the pins in '94(?).


Location: NH : Rumney : Main Cliff : Underdog (5.10a)
By: S. Neoh When: Dec 10, 2013

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Comments: Pretty sure the technical crux is moving left around the fourth bolt using the marginal left foothold. Shorties like me (5'5") and most shorter (female) climbers feel this way. Foot work should solve the "reach problem" to the huge jug on the rail high up on the climb.


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Chocolate Factory : Team Tough on Tour (5.11a)
By: S. Neoh When: Dec 9, 2013

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Comments: Excellent, DQ.
I love the name of the route. How fitting.


Location: NH : Rumney : Armed and Dangerous Area (M... : The Big Easy (5.7)
By: S. Neoh When: Dec 7, 2013

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Comments: Yeah, SS is nice. Be ready to clean off the cob webs on the way up tho. If memory serves, the gear on this is relatively easy to place and bomber.
For more adventure, try Boats From Cuba and deal with blocks (some loose) and crimps instead :)


Location: NH : Rumney : Main Cliff : Sweet Polly Purebred (5.10c)
By: S. Neoh When: Dec 4, 2013

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Comments: How is that even possible? :)

No worries, Nick, we past-our-prime kind still find ways to get up steep Rumney routes .... but only because we are crafty. :) Eric, Coach Paul, SteveA, even Al(!) still show up and not embarrass ourselves too badly.


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Left Flank : To Defy The Laws Of Traditi... (5.10a)
By: S. Neoh When: Nov 25, 2013

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Comments: I agree, obiss, at the risk of pissing more people off.
I am a shade under 5'5", the climb felt .10a/b to me but that was a while back. Chalk city up high on the route. Yuck.


Location: NH : Rumney : The Hinterlands : Nicky's Crack (5.11d)
By: S. Neoh When: Nov 24, 2013

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Comments: Unless you are perverted like Mark, bring your most techie shoes and best footwork for this one. They will come in handy for the 1 or 2 moves that make the grade.


Location: ME : Acadia National Park : The Precipice : Chlitlin Corner (5.7) : Photo
By: S. Neoh When: Nov 16, 2013

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Comments: The 5.7 part is well below her; a ~120 foot inside corner. P2 is 5.10.
The photo is tipped so everything looks steeper than it actually is.


Location: MA : Hammond Pond : Alcove : Kellogg's (5.10 V1)
By: S. Neoh When: Nov 16, 2013

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Comments: I too agree V grade for this and Breakfast is more appropriate.
Sorry if I sounded harsh, I did not mean to.


Location: MA : Hammond Pond : Alcove : Kellogg's (5.10 V1)
By: S. Neoh When: Nov 15, 2013

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Comments: V3-/V3 I think. Easier than Breakfast. Old school grading of .10+ might not be all that unreasonable, when one is mindful of Cathedral and Gunks .10+ routes.


Location: NH : Rumney : Main Cliff Right : Charity Case (5.9)
By: S. Neoh When: Nov 15, 2013

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Comments: Cool. Got to try that next time. I've only gone straight up and to the left.


Location: NH : Pawtuckaway : Upper Cliff : The Roof (5.7)
By: S. Neoh When: Nov 13, 2013

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Comments: Twenty or 21 years ago it felt like 5.8(?). Good gear. Going over the roof on the right is fun, like Lee said.


Location: NH : Whitehorse Ledge : Photo
By: S. Neoh When: Nov 12, 2013

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Comments: This practice has really caught on but this one has a twist, the bride is leading with a FULL GOWN on. Cool.


Location: NH : Rumney : New Wave : Schist Another Sport Climb (5.8)
By: S. Neoh When: Nov 11, 2013

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Comments: The Daytripper is a far better warmup/warmdown climb.
Agreed; not 5.7.


Location: NH : Rumney : Waimea : Livin' Astro (5.14c)
By: S. Neoh When: Nov 7, 2013

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Comments: CONGRATS, Josh!
Wish I had seen this video before bumping into your at Metro the other night. Nice send and you're climbing great, Josh!!


Location: NH : Rumney : Waimea
By: S. Neoh When: Nov 3, 2013

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Comments: Erik, only bad wording on my part; did not make my point clear enough. No sarcasm. As I said, it is good to get all this out in the open so there is less guesswork. Thanks again.


Location: MA : Leominster Area : Crow Hill : Main Face : Intertwine (5.8)
By: S. Neoh When: Nov 2, 2013

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Comments: Thanks. I think I was too green to realize what I had gotten myself into! That said, I think I might have done it on TR two times before I went to lead it on my 30th birthday. I had bought myself a #2 Camalot to plug and was so happy to place it for the 1st time on this climb (in the "pod"). I think some of the gear I placed would have held a fall. I had the "death grip" going the whole way up though. LOL.


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