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Standing atop the Lower 48 having completed Mt. Whitney's East Buttress (Direct)!


Member Since: Sep 7, 2011
Last Visit: 4 days ago
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Point Rank: # 639
Total Points: 970
Last Year: 106
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 191 | Routes 18 | Areas 13 | Photos 116 | Page Improvements | Comments 15 | Posts 17 | Stars 12 | Ratings

Contributed Comments

 

Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge : The Mordor Wall : The Mordor Wall (5.6 C2)
By: RyderS When: Aug 20, 2014

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Comments: On conditions and such:

Moves off the ground were a little sketch. The first bolt was not there, instead being a haggard-looking rivet. Bomber gear above, though...

Copperheads at the top of the crux pitch (P2) were gone/ripped (save 1?) when we passed through. Wires were shredded, and one of the heads came out during cleaning with just a touch. Definitely made the moves to the anchor thought-provoking.

Also, the 5.9 exit pitch at the top is an exercise in steep gardening. We passed a really ... more >>


Location: NH : White's Ledge : Endeavour (5.7+)
By: RyderS When: Aug 13, 2014

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Comments: A nice "lost in the woods" climb. The climbing was fun, but I don't think it was anything to write home about. Definitely a niche route for taking newer folks who want to sample what a slightly higher commitment level is in multipitch but might not be ready for a big, exposed commitment like Cannon. The approach is a bit ambiguous, with spotty cairns in the woods as you approach the wall, so keep your eyes open.

Some thoughts:
- P1 does have some runouts, but gear placements seem to appear righ... more >>


Location: International : Asia : China
By: RyderS When: Aug 13, 2014

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Comments: For folks thinking about making the journey to China for some climbing:

There's a new, awesomely comprehensive guidebook on China climbing that was just published. Likely the best book published on Chinese crags to-date. The book is CLIMB CHINA, and you can find it through their website:

climbchina.net/


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Erect Direction (5.10c)
By: RyderS When: Aug 11, 2014

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Comments: Bring a #4 for the first roof crux, and you'll be happy reefing on any hold through it! Not much worry about dead weight in the hard stuff since you get rid of the 4 before things get tough. Plenty of smaller placements just below in the roof, too, but the slab underneath the roof has lots of hollow-sounding blocks.

Outrageously awesome finale. Both feet up at your head?! C'mon!


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Feast of Fools (5.10b)
By: RyderS When: Aug 11, 2014

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Comments: Don't sweat over the pin at the crux (there is only 1 now). The gear below you is bomber (REALLY bomber), and a few more moves will get you to great placements before the exit to the belay.

Also, when you reach the first roof, wait until the pancake flake to drop in some gear. Protecting in the corner before moving out right looked like it would create some hideous rope drag into the crux... but some folks might not like the reliability of that flake...


Location: NH : Cannon Cliff : 2. Duet Area etc : Duet Direct (5.10+)
By: RyderS When: Jul 30, 2014

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Comments: Steep and glorious. If you are looking to test your trad pump endurance without getting into dicey gear situations, this route is for you. Great gear the whole way. Have faith passing the pod. Decent jams are not far off!

No single move felt like .10+. Instead the crux is very long with a bunch of stacked .10 moves in a row. Shake out and keep going!

For those interested:

- Gear: If this is at your limit and you want to sew it up (like I did), climb the pitch with triples of #.75 and @P... more >>


Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge : The North End : Recluse (5.10d)
By: RyderS When: Jul 27, 2014

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Comments: You can sink a small nut and #1 cam in to free yourself to reef on the crux moves all you want. Put your bouldering hat on for a few moves, and once you're in the crack above, the hard stuff is over. A little funkiness at the top out to the slab may surprise you, but nothing horrible.

Make like Henry Barber and friends and wager some beer on a send!


Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge : The North End : The Slot (5.10b)
By: RyderS When: Jun 28, 2014

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Comments: Crux rolls around just below the ledge underneath the big pod. Paste your feet, lock down your fingers, and pull! Thin, but a good constriction always seemed within a reasonable distance. Great route!


Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge : The Beast Alcove and Refuse... : Alcove Cracks (5.10)
By: RyderS When: Jun 6, 2014

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Comments: These cracks are not a bad option to do some cragging when its raining (lightly) at Cathedral. But don't expect the alcove overhang to be a ton of help in keeping the routes all that dry if the rain is steady. The left crack was nice and slimy after repeated May rain storms.

Fun little pitch, though. Great corner jamming and stemming with some strategic, small face holds right when you need them. Get some gear in early to protect yourself from hitting the giant ledge off the start. #2 cam... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : a. The Uberfall : Nosedive (5.10b)
By: RyderS When: Apr 17, 2014

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Comments: Great route. I found it more interesting and varied than Retribution. The top crux sequence has fun movement (layback transitioning into straight on jams). The finishing crux crack takes inspirationally bomber gear, too. Getting a nice stance just before the crux can be tricky if you are shorter, though, otherwise those face holds are excellent rests. Also, the start is no give away, either: a bit thin, but a few balancy moves will get you to a sidewalk of a ledge. Past the old pin, the great ge... more >>


Location: International : Asia : China : Beijing Area : Bai He (White River) : ... : Photo
By: RyderS When: Apr 17, 2014

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Comments: Thanks for the addition! Were you just out there recently?


Location: CA : High Sierra : Mt. Muir : East Buttress (w/ variation... (5.7)
By: RyderS When: Sep 10, 2013

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Comments: Update as of 9.8.2013

Not sure how this may affect conditions on the East Buttress route, but a huge rockslide swept down the East Buttress/face of Mt. Muir on Sunday, late morning on Sept. 8. Haven't heard our found much in the way of news, but there is a big rock scar visible 1/2 to 2/3 of the way up the face.


Location: International : Asia : China : "Guoliang," Wanxian Mountai...
By: RyderS When: Jul 14, 2013

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Comments: Yeah, thanks for checking out these pages, Zoey! If you get a chance when you go there, see if you can gather more information on the crags in the area, especially ones that I wasn't able to visit extensively. Climbing in China definitely needs more exposure out here, and we need all the people-power we can get to gather the info!

Enjoy Guoliang and be safe. Feel free to send me a PM if you have any questions about climbing in the area.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : f. The Guides' Wall (Madame... : Le Teton (5.9+)
By: RyderS When: May 19, 2013

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Comments: Definitely required solid sequencing to fire the crux. Found myself in an outrageous laid out position above so much air! The creative sequencing definitely made it easier than trying to let my lockoff endurance carry me through... Great climb!


Location: International : Asia : China : Photo
By: RyderS When: Apr 25, 2013

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Comments: This route is on the B-section wall ("Battery Wall") close to the village of Guoliang. Beware! This section of the cliff is really close to a tourist overlook and is plagued by trash!