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Me getting into the boulder start of Boving Reflec...


Member Since: Sep 7, 2011
Last Visit: 6 days ago
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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All 265 | Routes 32 | Areas 15 | Photos 148 | Page Improvements | Comments 26 | Posts 17 | Stars 27 | Ratings
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: International : Asia : China : Yunnan Province : Li Ming : ... : Foe-Hammer (5.11b/c)
By: RyderS When: Jun 3, 2015

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Comments: Route was originally rated 5.11d, but is probably a grade or two easier. It has a very distinct, well-defined crux (unless you loathe wide technique, then there are 2...). The top could use a bit more cleaning, but the hard climbing is over by then. Interesting route that will probably be better if more people climb it. Definitely worth doing if you can spend at the grade!


Location: International : Asia : China : Yunnan Province : Li Ming : ... : Flying Buttress (aka: The F... (5.13d)
By: RyderS When: May 21, 2015

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Comments: Update as of May 2015:

Australian Logan Barber finally freed the line! Even though the route is considerably longer and harder than Liming's now second-hardest route, Air China (5.13d), Logan still grades the Firewall as a .13d, though it will, like most routes, need more ascents to finally settle what the grade is.

Still, Liming's--and likely Asia's--hardest trad line is up! Go try it! I tried on TR, following Mike Dobie on a burn of the route, and even though it was well out of my pay grade... more >>


Location: International : Asia : China : Yunnan Province : Li Ming : ... : Morass (5.10)
By: RyderS When: May 9, 2015

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Comments: A great route with movement of both trad and sport climbing. Begin by liebacking up a solid flake until it terminates on some slopey, awkward ledges marked with a skinny crack. Get atop these wakward ledges with a combo of face and crack until a left-facing crack-corner opens on your right. Jam up through this crack towards a pedestal beneath the chains. Getting up on top of the pedestal can be awkward if you miss some hidden good holds.

No gear to lower from. Rap clean the route.


Location: International : Asia : China : Yunnan Province : Li Ming : ... : Back to the Primative (5.11+)
By: RyderS When: Apr 19, 2015

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Comments: Some mo' info.

Pitches: 8
Grade: III (the approach is rather easy given the stairs for half the approach).
Length: ~200m

THE multipitch of Liming, and perhaps one of the best multipitch trad routes in Asia. Back to the Primitive is a good dose of hard adventure climbing up one of the most iconic formations in the park. If you are making the trip across the Pacific for rock climbing, this MUST be on your to-do list! Get an early start and be ready for an über time!

Approach: Head out of town a... more >>


Location: International : Asia : China : Yunnan Province : Li Ming : ... : Scarface II (5.10+)
By: RyderS When: Apr 14, 2015

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Comments: An über route from start to finish! There's good reason why this route graces the cover of newest edition of the Liming guidebook!

A handcrack roof right off the deck (don't get spooked, the jams are awesome) will deposit you beneath the amazing sickle-shaped crack. Pull through the widest portion, and the crack will cut back towards a small overhang, angling right towards the top of Boy with a Coin. Continue on the secure jams (smaller folks may find it more rattly) to the anchor shared with ... more >>


Location: International : Asia : China : Yunnan Province : Li Ming : ... : The Reckoning (5.12-)
By: RyderS When: Apr 14, 2015

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Comments: A great first 5.12a (it was my first after a lot of 'work'! =D)

The route starts with an awkwardly wide crack that convinces you to dive deeper to find good jams (beware of stuck helmets!). The crack narrows before reaching a big, featured pod where you can rest if you are creative. Pull into a barn door crack that leads up to a second bulge and the route's finale, marked by a square-ish pod. Lock your way to the chains in this thin crack and hold off the pump. The route can be continued from t... more >>


Location: International : Asia : China : Yunnan Province : Li Ming : ... : Boy with a Coin (5.10+)
By: RyderS When: Apr 14, 2015

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Comments: Great route to hone some of your wide crack technique. An awkward, slightly overhung corner crack off of the ground turns into 'enjoyable' wide terrain with the occasional pod. The consistently sized crack will suddenly reverse direction and turn into an overhang that will take you to the chains shared with Scarface.

Definitely an interesting OW introduction without ever feeling too much like an OW brawl-fest. Lots of butterfly stacking! Feels awesomely secure if you play your cards right.

Not... more >>


Location: International : Asia : China : Yunnan Province : Li Ming : ... : Gore (5.11)
By: RyderS When: Apr 14, 2015

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Comments: Great 2-pitch outing when combined with Boy with a Coin or Scarface. Bouldery moves right off of the anchor will get you to glorious steep hands and an outrageous position looking down the majority of the Pinecrest Buttress!

Notes:

- Can be led with one #4 and a tipped-out #3. More safely led with two of them. Gear: double #1, double #4, #5 or #6.
- BRING A NUT TOOL. The features of this crack's top out lend themselves to sucking in cams above the roof. We ... more >>


Location: International : Asia : China : Yunnan Province : Li Ming : ... : Soul's Awakening (5.10)
By: RyderS When: Dec 27, 2014

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Comments: The bottom 4 pitches are amazing. The 1st and 4th pitches are beautiful, vertical hands to fist-sized corners (the latter finishing with a taste of offwidth) with excellent exposure and position.

There is an established way to continue and top out on the Cretaceous Area formation, but current conditions don't really seem to allow for it. Here's some info:

The 4th pitch marks the start of the Cretaceous Crack. The crack itself is about 40m long, but there is a bolted anchor station 20m up. The ... more >>


Location: International : Asia : China : Yunnan Province : Li Ming
By: RyderS When: Dec 27, 2014

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Comments: New edition of the guidebook (version 4) by Mike Dobie et al. (Chinese and English volumes together in the same book) can be purchased in Liming town at the Faraway Inn/Hostel for 120 RMB (~$19.25). The most recent edition was released in November 2014.

The youth hostel is a great place to stay for a good price (20 RMB for a dorm-style room). It is directly across the street from the tiny China Mobile shop along the main drag of Liming village.

Mike also keeps a blog about his development and ... more >>


Location: International : Asia : China : Yunnan Province : Li Ming : ... : The Great Owl (5.10)
By: RyderS When: Dec 27, 2014

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Comments: New edition of the Liming guidebook calls this 5.9, regardless if you use the tree.

Ranks up there as one of the most beautiful hand cracks in Liming. You can march up the thing with good jam technique. The location is pretty amazing, too. Look right and get a sweet view of the formations across the valley!


Location: NH : *Cathedral Ledge : The Mordor Wall : The Mordor Wall (5.6 C2)
By: RyderS When: Aug 20, 2014

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Comments: On conditions and such:

Moves off the ground were a little sketch. The first bolt was not there, instead being a haggard-looking rivet. Bomber gear above, though...

Copperheads at the top of the crux pitch (P2) were gone/ripped (save 1?) when we passed through. Wires were shredded, and one of the heads came out during cleaning with just a touch. Definitely made the moves to the anchor thought-provoking.

Also, the final exit pitch at the top is an exercise in steep gardening. We passed a reall... more >>


Location: NH : WM: Bartlett Area : White's Ledge : Endeavour (5.7+)
By: RyderS When: Aug 13, 2014

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Comments: A nice "lost in the woods" climb. The climbing was fun, but I don't think it was anything to write home about. Definitely a niche route for taking newer folks who want to sample what a slightly higher commitment level is in multipitch but might not be ready for a big, exposed commitment like Cannon. The approach is a bit ambiguous, with spotty cairns in the woods as you approach the wall, so keep your eyes open.

Some thoughts:
- P1 does have some runouts, but gear placements seem to appear righ... more >>


Location: International : Asia : China
By: RyderS When: Aug 13, 2014

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Comments: For folks thinking about making the journey to China for some climbing:

There's a new, awesomely comprehensive guidebook on China climbing that was just published. Likely the best book published on Chinese crags to-date. The book is CLIMB CHINA, and you can find it through their website:

climbchina.net/


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Erect Direction (5.10c)
By: RyderS When: Aug 11, 2014

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Comments: Bring a #4 for the first roof crux, and you'll be happy reefing on any hold through it! Not much worry about dead weight in the hard stuff since you get rid of the 4 before things get tough. Plenty of smaller placements just below in the roof, too, but the slab underneath the roof has lots of hollow-sounding blocks.

Outrageously awesome finale. Both feet up at your head?! C'mon!


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Feast of Fools (5.10b)
By: RyderS When: Aug 11, 2014

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Comments: Don't sweat over the pin at the crux (there is only 1 now). The gear below you is bomber (REALLY bomber), and a few more moves will get you to great placements before the exit to the belay.

Also, when you reach the first roof, wait until the pancake flake to drop in some gear. Protecting in the corner before moving out right looked like it would create some hideous rope drag into the crux... but some folks might not like the reliability of that flake...


Location: NH : *Cannon Cliff : 2. Duet Area etc : Duet Direct (5.10+)
By: RyderS When: Jul 30, 2014

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Comments: Steep and glorious. If you are looking to test your trad pump endurance without getting into dicey gear situations, this route is for you. Great gear the whole way. Have faith passing the pod. Decent jams are not far off!

No single move felt like .10+. Instead the crux is very long with a bunch of stacked .10 moves in a row. Shake out and keep going!

For those interested:

- Gear: If this is at your limit and you want to sew it up (like I did), climb the pitch with triples of #.75 and @P... more >>


Location: NH : *Cathedral Ledge : The North End : Recluse (5.10d)
By: RyderS When: Jul 27, 2014

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Comments: You can sink a small nut and #1 cam in to free yourself to reef on the crux moves all you want. Put your bouldering hat on for a few moves, and once you're in the crack above, the hard stuff is over. A little funkiness at the top out to the slab may surprise you, but nothing horrible.

Make like Henry Barber and friends and wager some beer on a send!


Location: NH : *Cathedral Ledge : The North End : The Slot (5.10b)
By: RyderS When: Jun 28, 2014

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Comments: Crux rolls around just below the ledge underneath the big pod. Paste your feet, lock down your fingers, and pull! Thin, but a good constriction always seemed within a reasonable distance. Great route!


Location: NH : *Cathedral Ledge : The Beast Alcove and Refuse... : Alcove Cracks (5.10)
By: RyderS When: Jun 6, 2014

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Comments: These cracks are not a bad option to do some cragging when its raining (lightly) at Cathedral. But don't expect the alcove overhang to be a ton of help in keeping the routes all that dry if the rain is steady. The left crack was nice and slimy after repeated May rain storms.

Fun little pitch, though. Great corner jamming and stemming with some strategic, small face holds right when you need them. Get some gear in early to protect yourself from hitting the giant ledge off the start. #2 cam... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : a. The Uberfall : Nosedive (5.10b)
By: RyderS When: Apr 17, 2014

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Comments: Great route. I found it more interesting and varied than Retribution. The top crux sequence has fun movement (layback transitioning into straight on jams). The finishing crux crack takes inspirationally bomber gear, too. Getting a nice stance just before the crux can be tricky if you are shorter, though, otherwise those face holds are excellent rests. Also, the start is no give away, either: a bit thin, but a few balancy moves will get you to a sidewalk of a ledge. Past the old pin, the great ge... more >>


Location: International : Asia : China : Beijing Area : Bai He (White River) : ... : Photo
By: RyderS When: Apr 17, 2014

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Comments: Thanks for the addition! Were you just out there recently?


Location: CA : High Sierra : Whitney and Surrounding Pea... : Mt. Muir : East Buttress (w/ variation... (5.7)
By: RyderS When: Sep 10, 2013

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Comments: Update as of 9.8.2013

Not sure how this may affect conditions on the East Buttress route, but a huge rockslide swept down the East Buttress/face of Mt. Muir on Sunday, late morning on Sept. 8. Haven't heard our found much in the way of news, but there is a big rock scar visible 1/2 to 2/3 of the way up the face.


Location: International : Asia : China : "Guoliang," Wanxian Mountai...
By: RyderS When: Jul 14, 2013

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Comments: Yeah, thanks for checking out these pages, Zoey! If you get a chance when you go there, see if you can gather more information on the crags in the area, especially ones that I wasn't able to visit extensively. Climbing in China definitely needs more exposure out here, and we need all the people-power we can get to gather the info!

Enjoy Guoliang and be safe. Feel free to send me a PM if you have any questions about climbing in the area.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : f. The Guides' Wall (Madame... : Le Teton (5.9+)
By: RyderS When: May 19, 2013

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Comments: Definitely required solid sequencing to fire the crux. Found myself in an outrageous laid out position above so much air! The creative sequencing definitely made it easier than trying to let my lockoff endurance carry me through... Great climb!


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