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Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Homestead : North Buttress : Death From Above (5.12)
By: RyanJames When: May 7, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hard to read crux, should be easier with a little chalk on the holds. Actually quite fun when figure it out. Top is definitely a little sharp for my liking. Overall, once you figure out what NOT to grab, not a bad route.
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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : Sedona : Lost Canyon : ... : Photo
By: RyanJames When: Apr 19, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Woah! Incredible shot of an incredible-looking climb!
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : East Stronghold : Owl Rock : Nightstalker (5.9)
By: RyanJames When: Feb 25, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: You can TR the route with a 60 if you...
1. extend the anchors with slings below the lip to reduce rope drag.
2. have the belayer scramble ten feet up the 4th class slab on the left of the climb when lowering.
3. tie a knot in the end of your rope.
4. are psyched you have just or are about to climb an awesome route!
Still have to rap off the back after cleaning though.
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Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Phoenix Areas : Superstition Mountains : Barks Canyon Wall : The Long Lead (5.8)
By: RyanJames When: Feb 3, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Definitly take singles of the micro pro. This desert rock eats it up. Definitly used the 00 (and even 000 from what I remember) on P1 and P2.
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Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : Lower Devil's Canyon : Glitter Box Area : Summer Assault (5.10b PG13)
By: RyanJames When: Jan 6, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Used one .3 above the third bolt and no gear after that (not really needed anywhere else). Some of the bolts would definitely benefit from an upgrade. Perhaps a little overall cleaning too? Overall though, fun route!
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Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : Lower Devil's Canyon : Glitter Box Area : Adios Larry (5.10b PG13)
By: RyanJames When: Jan 6, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a great climb that would really benefit from a change of location of the anchors. A MUCH better spot for them would be about five to ten feet lower beneath the lip of cliff. Then you wouldn't have to worry about rapping off of the rats nest of sun-bleached tat. Other than that, this climb was great! No gear needed.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : East Stronghold : Rockfellow Group : ... : Endgame (5.10a)
By: RyanJames When: Nov 20, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a sport route that has absolutely no need for any gear other than quickdraws. All runouts are on super easy terrain. Great route though. Great exposure and climbing on pitch 3!
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Location: AZ : Photo
By: RyanJames When: Nov 7, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great shot!!!
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Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Homestead : North Buttress : Unknownfarleft (5.11)
By: RyanJames When: Oct 15, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Superb rock quality in the last 30 feet.
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Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Homestead : Rough Rider Wall : JBone Memorial Highway (5.11c)
By: RyanJames When: Oct 14, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Very cool rock quality on this one make it totally worth the ride.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Summit Crags : ... : Eureka (5.13-)
By: RyanJames When: Jul 26, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: 5.12a to a solid V5 crux.
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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Flagstaff Crags : The Overlook : Angel's Delight (5.7+)
By: RyanJames When: Jul 26, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The end is so much easier than it looks... and so much more CLASSIC!!!
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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Winslow/ Clint's Well Areas : Winslow Wall : West Side : The Brotherhood (5.12b)
By: RyanJames When: Jun 27, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Classic!
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Location: AZ : Central Arizona : West Clear Creek : Anti-Crag : Last Chance (5.10 PG13)
By: RyanJames When: Jun 20, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: My number 5 BD was TOTALLY tipped out at the chimney part. I suggest a number 6 BD or a Big Bro if you want to do it safely? For me, this was one helluva spicy climb! Glad I pushed through.
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Location: AZ : Central Arizona : West Clear Creek : Anti-Crag : Differential Equations (5.10b/c PG13)
By: RyanJames When: Jun 20, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Definitely an amazing climb, especially the squeeze! The long sleeve shirt beta is key. I also used a knee pad that helped too (my squeeze chimney form isn't that great, yet). I also suggest triples of .5 and .75. I agree with the PG13 rating: it's definitely one of the safest routes in the canyon and can be protected practically every vertical foot from the bottom to the top.
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Location: CA : San Jacinto Mountains : The Tramway : Year of the Cat Gully : Tooth Fairy Boulder : Tooth Fairy (V6)
By: RyanJames When: May 29, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: That arete is for sure going to go one day. It already sounds VERY hollow when you slap it up.
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Location: CA : San Jacinto Mountains : The Tramway : Area 51/Deer Canyon : Yo Picasso (aka Sunshine Da... : Sunshine Daydream (aka Yo P... (V4)
By: RyanJames When: May 28, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbs more like a route: CLASSIC!
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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Winslow/ Clint's Well Areas : Winslow Wall : West Side : ... : Photo
By: RyanJames When: May 17, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hell yeah! Great effort! It's is definitely the key ingredient to send this thing.
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Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Homestead : North Buttress : Cinco De Side-pull (5.11+)
By: RyanJames When: May 9, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great name, Eric.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : West Stronghold : The Tombstone : ... : Photo
By: RyanJames When: May 7, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: That looks like one hell of a climb!
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Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Homestead : North Buttress : Pre-op Therapy (5.11+)
By: RyanJames When: May 7, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Like its brother Primal Instinct, Pre-op Therapy also has a "Mr. Clean" rest opportunity, which will either plaster a smile across your face or increase the dizzying, exposure-inducing vertigo.
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Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Homestead : Rough Rider Wall : Send Train Surfer (5.12)
By: RyanJames When: May 6, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Send Train surfs some very technical terrain that leads to a very improbable hold that hopefully won't rip off.
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Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Isolation Canyon : Main Wall - Center : War Hippies (5.11c) : Photo
By: RyanJames When: May 3, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I loved these moves! At that point, you have a solid 500 feet of air between you and canyon floor, which is almost straight down. SO SICK!
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Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Homestead : North Buttress : Great Northern (5.11d)
By: RyanJames When: May 3, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This climb ascends one of the cleanest and tallest portions of the North Butt(ress). A cruxy start leads to a sea of crimpers and sidepulls. Enjoy the fingercrack at the top!
All in all, this route rocks!
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Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Isolation Canyon : Main Wall - Center : Peacenik (5.12a)
By: RyanJames When: Apr 30, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Peacenik is a GREAT climb, especially when linking with the top pitch of warhippies. The crux is also height dependent that is much, much harder the shorter you are. I'd say a solid 5.12 if you're under 6 feet tall and 11+ if you're over 6'. Overall though, this climb is badass.
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