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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Bear Canyon : ... : King's Arete (5.13a)
By: RyanJ When: Apr 15, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: It is a bit disappointing that between bolts 5 and 6 you can either take the original finish straight up, which involves a bit of small hold technical trickery, or move right 3 feet and take the trivial jug haul.
This is characteristically a 'choose your own adventure' section then, either the fun way, or the easy way.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Bear Canyon : ... : Chihuahua Power (5.9)
By: RyanJ When: Dec 31, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Joe,
I generally agree with the view that additional bolts should not be added to established routes without going down the usual list, i.e. FAist, else FA party members, else community elders etc. I also agree with the ethic that Scott McNamara presented above, "anchors added after the first ascent should usually be immediately removed."
Yet what is the statute of limitations on removing added hardware? If it has been allowed to remain in place for what ever reason, when is it too late to cho... more >>
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Bear Canyon : ... : Chihuahua Power (5.9)
By: RyanJ When: Dec 30, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Joe,
This route has been fully bolted since SQ2 was published around 2001. It is listed as a bolted route in Rock Climbing Arizona(published in 1999). Why the sudden ethical concern? Maybe this isn't a sudden concern but given the FA date and the when these resources for Southern Arizona climbing were published, why didn't you take action in the decade prior to publication?
This isn't just another bolted sport route on the Lemmon, look at the quality rating it continually gets on this site as ... more >>
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Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Homestead : Slate Nation : I call it Left Overs???? (5.11+)
By: RyanJ When: Nov 26, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I believe this route is called Achy Brachiator. The roof is definitely hard to read on a first go but feels fairly casual on the redpoint.
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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Navajolands : Monument Valley
By: RyanJ When: Nov 12, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: All areas on the Navajo Nation are closed to non-Navajos unless you have a valid camping, hiking or backcountry permit issued by the Navajo Parks and Recreation Department or other duly delegated tribal authority. Failure to have a permit is considered Trespassing on a Federal Indian Reservation.
NO ROCK CLIMBING on Navajo Land. Please abide by the humble religious requests of the Navajo people and do not climb the Monuments. “Navajo law will be strictly enforced on this issue,” Parks Depar... more >>
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Upper Highway : ... : Delt Melt (5.12)
By: RyanJ When: Jun 4, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks jbak, it was certainly desperate and not pretty but I managed to pull it off.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Windy Point East : ... : Sine Wave (5.11c/d)
By: RyanJ When: May 28, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks for the clear up, I'll switch them. Shamelessly took the order from the guidebook.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Mid-Mountain : Sky Valley
By: RyanJ When: May 28, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: San Pedro Vista is not the parking for Sky Valley. Sure you can use it but it makes a much longer approach. Park at the large pull out under Barnum Rock, as alluded to in the guidebook, then walk down road for 150 yards or so to a well cairned trail on the north side of the road.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Windy Point East : ... : Coronary Bypass (5.11a)
By: RyanJ When: May 16, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks Eric, route info has been updated.
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Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Homestead : Finland Terrace : Opus Magnum (5.12c)
By: RyanJ When: Jan 9, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a very fun route with technical climbing down low, a very satisfying crux, and a nice haul to the chains.
The full recovery rest does detract from the quality.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Upper Highway : ... : 5.8 C (5.9)
By: RyanJ When: May 16, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: An interesting variation is to start on this route and right before the traverse right, head up and left and finish on Canadian Bacon. This variation makes for a 5.10 that gets progressively harder from bottom to top.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Bear Canyon : ... : Shingles (5.11)
By: RyanJ When: May 11, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yep, I'm sure. SQtL-II gives it one star and I agree. It is worth doing if you find yourself under it.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Bear Canyon : ... : Shingles (5.11)
By: RyanJ When: May 8, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route has awkward movement, loose blocks, and crumbly crimps. Even staying on the bolt line my partner and I managed to pull off a fair amount of rock.
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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Winslow/ Clint's Well Areas : Jacks Canyon : Photo
By: RyanJ When: Mar 7, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: That bolt is there to aid in cleaning the route if a second doesn't clean on TR.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Windy Point East : ... : Photo
By: RyanJ When: Aug 28, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fine. Don't forget to put the tree up during the public holiday and midwinter celebrations that take place on or around December 25th.
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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Williams/ Sycamore Canyon A... : Paradise Forks : Davidson Wall : ... : Photo
By: RyanJ When: Jul 28, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Crush it!
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Upper Highway : The Steep
By: RyanJ When: Jul 16, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: While the tree is still against the rock it is no longer a pain getting to the anchors on Delt Melt or Cres-sent. At least not since I put on my arborist hat.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Bear Canyon : The Jungle
By: RyanJ When: Apr 19, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: The description for this area sounds vaguely like the Barefoot Wall found in the old Steiger guide.
Just throwing the Bob Murray card out...
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : West Stronghold : Behind Sweet Rock : An Endless Journey (5.7 V0- PG13)
By: RyanJ When: Apr 13, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: So this is some kind of nature hike?
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Lower Highway : ... : Photo
By: RyanJ When: Mar 23, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is Scorpion King (first pitch) not Limbomanic. Limbomanic is on the next lefthand wall up canyon.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Lower Highway : ... : Limbomaniac (5.7)
By: RyanJ When: Mar 23, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: litld01
It sounds like you were on the wrong route. Limbomanic doesn't have a second pitch. You were most likely on Scorpion King (first pitch).
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Windy Point East : ... : Andy's Hat (5.9)
By: RyanJ When: Mar 19, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Jbaker,
Did you sell your story to Hollywood?
Accurate dramatization of events.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Lower Highway : ... : Solar Wind (5.11+)
By: RyanJ When: Mar 5, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: We comfortized the key sharp holds, and pulled off a few others.
What are comfortized holds?
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Lower Highway : ... : Photo
By: RyanJ When: Nov 22, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This happens to be a picture of the first pitch of Scorpion King (first pitch), not Limbomaniac.
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Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Homestead : Tufa City
By: RyanJ When: Oct 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: - Isn't Tufa closer to Travertine than Limestone?
Tufa and Travertine are both varieties of limestone. Both are carbonaceous precipitates, attaining key minerals from the calcite that makes up the majority of limestone. tufa is more porous than travertine. Travertine is generally formed near hot springs, while tufa forms in more moderate waters. Both can make the fantastic column structures we love to climb.
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