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Member Since: Jun 21, 2007
Last Visit: 5 hours ago
Contact RyanJohnson


Point Rank: # 1,813
Total Points: 313
Last Year: 50
Last 30 Days: 0
3 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 1027 | Routes 17 | Areas 2 | Photos 14 | Page Improvments | Comments 43 | Posts 81 | Stars 672 | Ratings 198
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 7 - Upper Highway : ... : Slappin the Johnson (5.12a)
By: RyanJohnson When: Jun 21, 2014

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Comments: Added chains to the top of this 06/21/2014.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Tanque Verde Canyon : The Tool Shed : Eye Of The Tiger (5.12+)
By: RyanJohnson When: Apr 19, 2014

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Comments: Thanks Eric. If Dominic and Shefus hadn't made it look so fun I'm not sure I'd have gotten on it. I'm glad I did, a tad small and sharp in spots but very fun.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Tanque Verde Canyon : The Tool Shed : Eye Of The Tiger (5.12+)
By: RyanJohnson When: Mar 26, 2014

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Comments: Hah! It's more that your ten-foot wingspan allowed you to skip the small snappy holds that I had to use.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 4 - Windy Point West : ... : Pucker Up (5.13a)
By: RyanJohnson When: Jan 18, 2014

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Comments: Luke,

My only concern was added bolts without permission/discussion. I had asked around and learned that you and Mike had talked about the additions as well. I was more interested in avoiding another Chihuahua Power-gate. I think Pucker Up is a great route, whether it be fully bolted or with a few pieces of pro. As for current development trends, I don't hold any strong positions. FAist can do what they want.

Thanks for all the work cleaning up The Gallery!


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 4 - Windy Point West : ... : Pucker Up (5.13a)
By: RyanJohnson When: Jan 16, 2014

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Comments: EDIT: FAist is fine with the additions.

Bummer. The first ~30 feet of 5.8/9ish crack used to require a couple pieces of gear, now it's bolts all the way down.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Tanque Verde Canyon : The Tool Shed : Eye Of The Tiger (5.12+)
By: RyanJohnson When: Jan 14, 2014

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Comments: The holds on this route are quite ... snappy. Had a series of ever-changing beta due to hold loss.


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : Oak Flats
By: RyanJohnson When: Dec 23, 2013

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Comments: James,

Mondegreens.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 7 - Upper Highway : ... : Doubt (5.14a)
By: RyanJohnson When: Oct 24, 2013

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Comments: Doubt certainly doesn't have the same gravitas that Atonement had.

As to the chipping, it is doubtful that the crux of the first pitch would go without the manufactured holds. Specifically the path through this (Photo) section of rock, would not be possible. Maybe if one climbed way above or found a traverse way below, but the path of travel would be significantly different down low.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 7 - Upper Highway : ... : Photo
By: RyanJohnson When: Sep 16, 2013

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Comments: The route marked as a potential project is just an alternate start to Two Birds Too Stoned. I think Shiefman had a hand it.

Pull the little bulge move and then drift left until you can join the other route. Maybe the harder end of 5.10 if I recall.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 7 - Upper Highway : ... : Photo
By: RyanJohnson When: Aug 22, 2013

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Comments: This looks more like Ten Years After.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 6 - Mid-Mountain : Sky Valley
By: RyanJohnson When: Jun 6, 2013

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Comments: Due to the completion of the Incinerator Ridge trail extension to San Pedro Vista, it may be better to park in the vista lot and take this new trail up to the crag.

This extension passes within a stone's throw of Sky Valley and makes the current moderately overgrown approach redundant.

Approach time on this new trail is about 15 minutes.



Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 2 - Bear Canyon : ... : King's Arete (5.12c/d)
By: RyanJohnson When: Apr 15, 2013

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Comments: It is a bit disappointing that between bolts 5 and 6 you can either take the original finish straight up, which involves a bit of small hold technical trickery, or move right 3 feet and take the trivial jug haul.

This is characteristically a 'choose your own adventure' section then, either the fun way, or the easy way.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 2 - Bear Canyon : ... : Chihuahua Power (5.9)
By: RyanJohnson When: Dec 31, 2012

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Comments: Joe,

I generally agree with the view that additional bolts should not be added to established routes without going down the usual list, i.e. FAist, else FA party members, else community elders etc. I also agree with the ethic that Scott McNamara presented above, "anchors added after the first ascent should usually be immediately removed."

Yet what is the statute of limitations on removing added hardware? If it has been allowed to remain in place for what ever reason, when is it too late to cho... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 2 - Bear Canyon : ... : Chihuahua Power (5.9)
By: RyanJohnson When: Dec 30, 2012

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Comments: Joe,

This route has been fully bolted since SQ2 was published around 2001. It is listed as a bolted route in Rock Climbing Arizona(published in 1999). Why the sudden ethical concern? Maybe this isn't a sudden concern but given the FA date and when these resources for Southern Arizona climbing were published, why didn't you take action in the decade prior to publication?

This isn't just another bolted sport route on the Lemmon, look at the quality rating it continually gets on this site as well... more >>


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Homestead : Slate Nation : Achy Brachiator (5.11+)
By: RyanJohnson When: Nov 26, 2012

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Comments: I believe this route is called Achy Brachiator. The roof is definitely hard to read on a first go but feels fairly casual on the redpoint.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Navajolands : Monument Valley
By: RyanJohnson When: Nov 12, 2012

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Comments: All areas on the Navajo Nation are closed to non-Navajos unless you have a valid camping, hiking or backcountry permit issued by the Navajo Parks and Recreation Department or other duly delegated tribal authority. Failure to have a permit is considered Trespassing on a Federal Indian Reservation.

NO ROCK CLIMBING on Navajo Land. Please abide by the humble religious requests of the Navajo people and do not climb the Monuments. “Navajo law will be strictly enforced on this issue,” Parks Depar... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 7 - Upper Highway : ... : Delt Melt (5.12)
By: RyanJohnson When: Jun 4, 2012

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Comments: Thanks jbak, it was certainly desperate and not pretty but I managed to pull it off.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 3 - Windy Point East : ... : Sine Wave (5.11c/d)
By: RyanJohnson When: May 28, 2012

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Comments: Thanks for the clear up, I'll switch them. Shamelessly took the order from the guidebook.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 3 - Windy Point East : ... : Coronary Bypass (5.11a)
By: RyanJohnson When: May 16, 2012

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Comments: Thanks Eric, route info has been updated.


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Homestead : Finland Terrace : Opus Magnum (5.12c)
By: RyanJohnson When: Jan 9, 2012

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Comments: This is a very fun route with technical climbing down low, a very satisfying crux, and a nice haul to the chains.

The full recovery rest does detract from the quality.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 7 - Upper Highway : ... : 5.8 C (5.9)
By: RyanJohnson When: May 16, 2011

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Comments: An interesting variation is to start on this route and right before the traverse right, head up and left and finish on Canadian Bacon. This variation makes for a 5.10 that gets progressively harder from bottom to top.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 2 - Bear Canyon : ... : Shingles (5.11)
By: RyanJohnson When: May 11, 2011

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Comments: Yep, I'm sure. SQtL-II gives it one star and I agree. It is worth doing if you find yourself under it.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 2 - Bear Canyon : ... : Shingles (5.11)
By: RyanJohnson When: May 8, 2011

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Comments: This route has awkward movement, loose blocks, and crumbly crimps. Even staying on the bolt line my partner and I managed to pull off a fair amount of rock.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Winslow/ Hwy 87 : Jacks Canyon : Photo
By: RyanJohnson When: Mar 7, 2011

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Comments: That bolt is there to aid in cleaning the route if a second doesn't clean on TR.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 3 - Windy Point East : ... : Photo
By: RyanJohnson When: Aug 28, 2010

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Comments: Fine. Don't forget to put the tree up during the public holiday and midwinter celebrations that take place on or around December 25th.


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