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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : The Diamond
By: Ryan Jennings When: Aug 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: We were rappeling the Crack of Delight raps when your pack came tumbling down in the vicinity of Fields Chimney or even farther over towards the lower east face. It seemed a few items fell out along the way too but continued down with the pack. We thought it strange since we were just on Broadway and we were the only party there. There was a team, in the boulders at the base of Mills, that said they watched the pack go straight into the bergshrund. A bit later a grey/black sleeping pad came... more >>
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Cathedral Wall : Sublime Buttress (5.11 R) : Photo
By: Ryan Jennings When: Nov 3, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This was the day before. The bivy photo was taken when we woke up in the morning and the ropes were frozen to the wall above. We bivied at the base of Pitch 5 after fixing it.
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Location: CO : Grand Junction : Colorado National Monument : Independence Monument : Otto's Route (5.8+)
By: Ryan Jennings When: Nov 26, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nothing comfirmed but I've heard of ascents in the 7-9 minute range. Talked with a friend this morning who remembers their time being 8min40sec but it was quite a few years ago. I always remembered him saying 7min something.
Sandy mess, Jesse? It's desert rock, so of course there is sand, but it's got to be one of the cleaner routes in the desert and the climbing throughout is actually quite enjoyable. With the abundant protection and easy climbing, it's perfect for speed climbing. You spe... more >>
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Location: CO : Grand Junction : Colorado National Monument : Independence Monument : Otto's Route (5.8+)
By: Ryan Jennings When: Nov 18, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Don't get too excited it's been done in well under 10 minutes. Probably gets speed climbed more often than you think. What's the going speed for car to car?
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : South St. Vrain ice : East of Peak to Peak : Road Rash (WI5+ M6)
By: Ryan Jennings When: Mar 2, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hell NO!!!!
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : South St. Vrain ice : East of Peak to Peak : Skidmark Left (WI5+)
By: Ryan Jennings When: Feb 17, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: The statement around here has always been that: if it forms, Duncan and clan have almost certainly done it. I would love to here from these masters themselves about what conditions were like when/if originally ascended. It was our purpose in posting these routes to see who might have climbed them in the past, as we were quite certain we were not the FA. Something so close had to have been climbed at some point in the past.
My belief would be though that if climbed during those years these r... more >>
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : South St. Vrain ice : East of Peak to Peak : Road Rash (WI5+ M6)
By: Ryan Jennings When: Jan 12, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I agree about being older and more wary. I don't mind running it out if the ice is good but when we did this thing I felt there was a 50/50 chance of popping off the thin ice and I wasn't about to fall on those flakes with the ground fall potential. As it is, you still run it out a bit above the bolt to get to the system above, but at least you won't hit the deck. I'll check it out when I'm down there in a week and then again in the summer. Thanks for the input, you two.
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : South St. Vrain ice : East of Peak to Peak : Road Rash (WI5+ M6)
By: Ryan Jennings When: Jan 11, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Whaaaaat! That's disgusting. If I actually placed a bolt 2.5 feet away from a good natural piece I should be beat to a bloody pulp. That's just unacceptable and future generations should know that's just not right. Unfortunately I misread Matt's description and believed that the easy variation he spoke of traversed in from Narrows crack higher up along the flake. Now that I go back and re-read his description I realize that the ledge he speaks of is the ledge not far above our bolt. What am... more >>
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : South St. Vrain ice : East of Peak to Peak : Road Rash (WI5+ M6)
By: Ryan Jennings When: Jan 5, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Cameron.... The single bolt we placed can clearly be seen in the photo that Greg took and if you are familiar with the routes you mention you will see that the bolt is not within reach of either route. Believe me when I say that I put a lot of thought into placing a bolt before I do. This route deserved a bolt to produce an excellent mixed route that regularly forms up, period. Furthermore it should be said that we debated climbing this summer rock climbing wall in crampons for fear of scratchi... more >>
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : South St. Vrain ice : East of Peak to Peak : Skidmark Right (WI5+ M6) : Photo
By: Ryan Jennings When: Dec 11, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is Skidmark Right.
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : South St. Vrain ice : East of Peak to Peak : Skidmark Left (WI5+) : Photo
By: Ryan Jennings When: Dec 11, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Actually, this is Skidmark Left. Same weekend
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : South St. Vrain ice : East of Peak to Peak : Road Rash (WI5+ M6) : Photo
By: Ryan Jennings When: Dec 11, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yep, Road Rash
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Location: NV : Mt. Charleston : Mount Charleston Ice : Vegas Hose Monster (WI5)
By: Ryan Jennings When: Dec 8, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Doesn't that woman of yours have YOU sleeping with the hounds yet. If I came out there (and if it was a few years ago:-) I'd be sleeping with your biaaaatch while you spooned the hounds since I'd be the one doing the sending of this sick looking route. Nevada ice? Can't be! Let me know when it's in. Can I climb this one day and do epinephrine the next? If so I'm there!
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Location: CO : Lyons : South Saint Vrain Canyon : North Narrows Slabs
By: Ryan Jennings When: Dec 4, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Kevin Cooper, I and various partners put up three new ice routes on this crag this last weekend 12/1/2006. Perhaps they have been done before. If not they are now called "Skidmark Left, Skidmark Right and Road Rash". All three climb 1-2" thick ice and use existing bolts and natural protection except for Road Rash which required the addition of one bolt above a loose flake. They form most years for a few days. Skidmark Left is the black water streak of Alley Cat Street and uses this routes prote... more >>
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Location: NV : Mt. Charleston : Mount Charleston Ice : Vegas Hose Monster (WI5)
By: Ryan Jennings When: Dec 4, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: This thing looks fat. Are you guys gettin on it or what? Are you wankers gonna wait till it's fatter and force me to come out there and send it or sack up now! You better call me with a full report B-dog!
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Location: WY : Grand Teton National Park : Death Canyon : Cathedral Buttress : Sunshine Daydream (5.11-)
By: Ryan Jennings When: Jul 11, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: We linked the first three pitches of the Snaz (helps to shorten the rope). 4th pitch traverse is hair raising but the pro shows up as you keep traversing. Pitch 5 is serious! The machine head bolt doesn't inspire much confidence as you look up at the blank slab above. Keep long runners on the gear off the belay lest you get rope drag at the top of the pitch. The crux of the slab is at the bolt but you get a tricky move a ways out. Fear not though, if you stay on the feet you'll make it to th... more >>
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Location: Mountain Project Bouldering...
By: Ryan Jennings When: Apr 29, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: 16 tries. Kept making the same mistake dammit! Pretty fun stuff.
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Redstone : Narrows, Redstone, McClure ... : Stoney Fest (WI5+ M5 R)
By: Ryan Jennings When: Dec 30, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: This took so long to get in here since I first sent it that I think some things got mixed up. I can't imagine I actually wrote the word "purdy" but whatever. The mixed section on the third pitch is more like M5R not M7R. We've since named the route "Stoney Fest WI5+M5R". The second and third pitches have been climbed but most likely without the mixed variation at the top. More photos and routes are on Splitterchoss.com.
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Location: CO : Grand Junction : Colorado National Monument : Other areas : Little Bighorn (A1)
By: Ryan Jennings When: Nov 7, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: The rock around the pitons on the summit is starting to deteriorate. [Definitely] could use replacement. Also beware of the last two pins on the ladder as they are loosening. Climbed this on two hex, one nut stacks for the first 30 feet! Made it A-scary. BRING THE BIG CAMS! Also bring a new piece of paper for the summit register the [original] is full with eight or nine ascents. Fun climb in a nice canyon.
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Location: CO : Grand Junction : Colorado National Monument : Other areas : Split Decision (5.10a)
By: Ryan Jennings When: Nov 7, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yes, take the dirt road on the left just before the main road curves left and turns to dirt. Follow this road heading towards the cliffs untill you find a gate and trailhead in the middle of nowhere. Follow the old road.
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon : North Chasm View Wall : White Devil (A0)
By: Ryan Jennings When: Aug 12, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: So, now that you've included this route I assume the nightmares have subsided. Have the moments of sanity left you too? The ones that occasionally entered into that peanut of yours telling you that perhaps you might live longer if you just stayed away from hard aid. Where have they gone? I remember your eyes after this adventure. Fear doesn't begin to discribe the look of horror you had. I remember the heartfelt discussion we had when you returned. Something about how stupid aid climbing ... more >>
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Cathedral Wall : Sublime Buttress (5.11 R)
By: Ryan Jennings When: Aug 10, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Sorry! Should have been more specific about heading out the left of the roof. This pitch protects a little better with a set of Lowe Balls (or at least they let me think it was safer!). Thought the second pitch was 11a huh?
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : The Diamond
By: Ryan Jennings When: Jul 11, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: We climbed D7 on 7/2/05 and conditions were great. A little wet on the pitch before the crux. Other than that it was totally dry. Casual still had a lot of snow on the ramp mid way. Probably still real wet. Another party was on Pervertical and another on Directissima on Chasm View wall. North Chimney was climbable on rock to the right once you got into it. Broadway was a snow walk to the base the yellow wall climbs.
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon : North Chasm View Wall : The Hallucinogen Wall (5.10 A3+ R)
By: Ryan Jennings When: May 2, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Good job you two! There must be some sort of dehabilitating hallucinations that slow people down on those last pitches. Great shot of the cacti by the way! Let's hope their there for years to come. I don't believe they have anything like that on El Cap.
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon : North Chasm View Wall : The Hallucinogen Wall (5.10 A3+ R)
By: Ryan Jennings When: May 1, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Tony- I don't see this as such a squall. They obviously did the thing fast. It appears folks just want to know more of the details of the ascent. If they were there the day before it seems perfectly logical and ethically legal to scout the first few pitches. This would account for being spotted down there. On the other hand if fixed ropes were involved (which for the sake of the accuser should have been specifically witnessed to justify accusations) then there is a squall. I don't see the ... more >>
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