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Member Since: Oct 30, 2010
Last Visit: 17 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 4,096
Total Points: 120
Last Year: 17
Last 30 Days: 0
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 214 | Routes 3 | Areas 2 | Photos 6 | Page Improvements | Comments 30 | Posts 56 | Stars 94 | Ratings 23
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Eagle Pinnacle : Finger Lickin' Good (5.7)
By: Ryan Strickland When: May 4, 2015

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Comments: A good lead for the budding climber. Fun finger locks with reasonable protection. Very short by Idyllwild standards.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Eagle Pinnacle : Jizz (5.10b)
By: Ryan Strickland When: May 4, 2015

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Comments: I did this one a couple of summer's ago. It's a fun lead that's well protected through the crux. You might want a few cams around 1 inch or so you can protect the last move to the anchors, but not really necessary. Get on it if you're doing Johnny Quest and Flakes of Wrath.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Le Dent Pinnacle : Munge Dihedral (5.10a)
By: Ryan Strickland When: May 4, 2015

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Comments: Strenuous but always there. The squeeze at the bottom might be the crux for some. If fists are your weakness (like me), this climb will feel challenging for the grade.

This is probably one of the cooler crack climbs in Idyllwild. Too bad it's way out at Le Dent or it would receive hundreds more ascents per year, but maybe that's a good thing!


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Le Dent Pinnacle : Jammit (5.9)
By: Ryan Strickland When: May 4, 2015

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Comments: I found this one to be the most challenging 5.9 I've done in Idyllwild (and I've led 15 of 'em). I must have been doing it wrong or something... The moves continue to be challenging and fun for the remainder of the climb.

It is a well protected climb with plenty of rests for gear placement.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : Intersection Rock : Beginner's Three (5.3)
By: Ryan Strickland When: May 4, 2015

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Comments: The start is definitely challenging for 5.3. However, they are the most difficult moves on the climb. If you can get off the ground, you'll cruise the climb. It has more fun jamming than the Bong, but is way less cool of a line.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : Intersection Rock : West Chimney (5.6)
By: Ryan Strickland When: May 4, 2015

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Comments: I've only climbed down this thing, but it's a fun route! The chimney crux moves are secure as a downclimb; it's probably harder going up. In my opinion the least secure moves on the down climb are the last 5 feet!


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : Intersection Rock : Bat Crack (5.5)
By: Ryan Strickland When: May 4, 2015

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Comments: The plated face to the left of the chimney start is a fun way to do this one. It protects well for the leader but does involve a poorly protected traverse for the follower at the end of the first pitch. Facing out and chimney climbing the first half of the second pitch makes it pretty secure if you're worried. The slab to the right of the crack on P2 is fun to climb as well once you get a ways up the crack (provided you aren't worried about falling).


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Echo Cove : Echo Cove - South Face : Bonzo Dog Band (5.7)
By: Ryan Strickland When: May 4, 2015

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Comments: Probably a better solo than lead.

BETA ALERT! If you're keeping it 5.7, you need to move left onto the flake after standing on a boulder at the base of the climb. Placing gear under the flake doesn't seem like it would make the climb safer to lead, just more tedious. The slab moves are solid and no where near as slick as most 5.7 slabs in the area. The rest of the climb is better protected and easier.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Echo Rock : Echo Rock - West Face : Eff Four (5.6)
By: Ryan Strickland When: May 4, 2015

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Comments: This is a decent route; worth doing if you're leading 5.7 or less and in the area. Combined with Schicter Quits and Double Dip, you could have a pretty good time getting some mileage, all below 5.7. The route is around 200 feet long, beginning to end.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : South Face : South Face - Left Side : Left Ski Track (5.6)
By: Ryan Strickland When: Apr 21, 2015

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Comments: A 60m rope will get you from the ground to just past the step around to belay. Doing it that way makes for a really fun, long pitch.

Either way, great route.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : West Face : West Face - Center (Flintst... : Betty (5.9)
By: Ryan Strickland When: Apr 18, 2015

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Comments: Pretty radical move for 5.9, but I think it's a fair rating. No knee required for me; plenty awkward though.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : West Face : West Face - Left Side : The Blank (5.10a)
By: Ryan Strickland When: Apr 17, 2015

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Comments: I led the crux pitch (p3?) and only brought a few cams from 1-4 inches and a set of nuts. At the end of the pitch you traverse straight right to a belay stance next to a dead tree. I nearly belayed solely off the tree but decided to lower some rope down to my partner to pull up some gear for a decent anchor. When my partner got to the traverse, he was moving quick and fell! The only cam protecting him on the traverse was a poorly placed red link cam. It blew out and he took a good 20 footer! Goo... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland of Rocks : Wonderland South : Central Wonderland : ... : Take Two, They're Small (5.9+)
By: Ryan Strickland When: Jan 27, 2014

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Comments: I did this one without knowing any information about it. The crack is a bit wider than I thought. I would have liked 2 #4's but I managed with one. I anticipated the belay would be on the shelf after the wide crack ends. This is not the case. You move left another 15-20 feet to a short, flaring crack that takes a mediocre #1 cam. After this short cruxy move, it's easy to the top. I didn't see a bolt for the anchor. Walked off, although I probably could have rapped Dangling Woo Li Mas... more >>


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : West Face Bulge Routes : Lower Bulge Buttress : Standup Flake (5.9)
By: Ryan Strickland When: Oct 27, 2013

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Comments: Decent climb, not really worth the approach in my opinion. There were some fun moves. Felt hard to me when compared to other local 5.9s. Could be due to the incredible wind and cold when I did it.

The approach involves a couple hundred feet of 3rd/4th class in a pretty dangerous location if any rocks were to fall from above.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Right of the Escalator : Free Lance (5.10c)
By: Ryan Strickland When: Oct 16, 2013

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Comments: This route felt pretty sustained at low 5.10. There was always at least one move between bolts that demanded concentration. The most difficult moves for me were just after passing the third bolt.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : The Weeping Wall : Surprise Direct (5.9 R)
By: Ryan Strickland When: Oct 6, 2013

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Comments: Pretty challenging pitch. Like Robin, I think the second bolt I clipped was on Duck Soup. I climbed up for 30 feet or so past the first bolt and was getting a bit nervous because I couldn't see any more bolts. But I looked down and right, maybe 10 feet right at most, and saw a bolt that seemed on route. I stepped down to it, clipped it, and then climbed up another 20 feet or so to the "double bolt". After that, the climbing got less serious, leading to the final bolt.

This pitch felt sustained... more >>


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : North Face : Coup de Grace (5.10b)
By: Ryan Strickland When: Sep 16, 2013

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Comments: Did this route by mistake, but it was a great experience. We didn't do the 10b pitch because we intended to climb Grace Slick but didn't really study the topo for it so we started this climb on Pitch 2, thinking it was Grace Slick.

Pitch 2 is good, but there wasn't much pro once you pull the roof, so don't blow it. Pitches 3 and 4 were fun, well protected slab climbing. The top of Pitch 4 was great because you move right onto the edge of the arete for the last few moves. Both are typical Idyl... more >>


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Rebolting Face : Goliath (5.7)
By: Ryan Strickland When: May 5, 2012

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Comments: Followed my friend up this one. Chimney was strenuous and awkward to clean. Hand crack finish was really cool, but it felt pretty stout for 5.8. The hand crack felt like the mirror opposite of Flower of High Rank above the tree, except the Goliath crack was harder for me.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : West Face : West Face - Right Side : Fingertrip (5.7)
By: Ryan Strickland When: Mar 11, 2012

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Comments: Climbed this yesterday. Snow at the base but not anywhere on the route. A 60m will get you from the first pitch belay over the arch (next to Fingertip Traverse) with ~10 feet of rope to spare.

I recommend the slab finish, it's an exhilarating lead- pure friction to the bolt! When you reach that horizontal crack right before the slab, try walking the crack rather than hand traversing. It's easier and it feels pretty cool! I wouldn't call this pitch run-out at all, especially if you led the rest... more >>


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : The North Buttress : The Uneventful (5.5)
By: Ryan Strickland When: Aug 28, 2011

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Comments: As of the date of this posting, there is a large chunk of rock (2 feet long, 6 inches wide) on the first pitch that is ready to fall. The rock is located on the first pitch, before the trees/bushes about 40 meters up. It is right at what felt to me as the P1 crux. It looks like it would be a great pinch hold but the rock is barely holding on. The rock is sitting precariously in a vertical crack and is surrounded by pine needles and dirt. Be careful!


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Right of the Escalator : Axe of God (5.8 R)
By: Ryan Strickland When: Apr 24, 2011

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Comments: I disagree with the "R" rating. One can place a small cam right from the start to protect the move onto the "axe".


Location: AR : Horseshoe Canyon Ranch : The North Forty : Little Manly Man (5.7)
By: Ryan Strickland When: Dec 4, 2010

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Comments: I'm not sure why, but I really enjoyed this climb. There were lots of holds but the slight overhanging parts kept it interesting.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : Sports Challenge Rock : Sports Challenge Rock - Wes... : Ranger J.B. (5.8)
By: Ryan Strickland When: Nov 13, 2010

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Comments: Top-roped this one after doing Ranger JD. Seemed like the 5.8 rating was accurate. I thought about leading it but decided not to because there didn't seem like many places for solid pro on the second half and my off width technique is lacking...


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : Sports Challenge Rock : Sports Challenge Rock - Wes... : Ranger J.D. (5.6)
By: Ryan Strickland When: Nov 13, 2010

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Comments: Led this one today. It felt like a pretty easy 5.6 and it is very short. It was the first route I did today and I thought it was a nice warm up climb but not much more than that.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : Locomotion Rock : Leaping Leaner (5.6)
By: Ryan Strickland When: Nov 13, 2010

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Comments: Just led this one today. I'd give it a solid 5.8 rating if you start directly below the crack. I'm just getting into leading 5.8 and this was the right amount of "scary" for me. I like to be stressed but not terrified. A #1 Camalot fits nicely into a pocket before you reach the main crack and allows you to skip the possible ground fall.


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