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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Mid-Mountain : ... : The Grips of Wrath (5.10a)
By: Ryan Morse When: Jun 10, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I found this route to be fantastic route, with great moves, and sustained climbing. Though I know how controversial this route is, I really appreciate it being there to provide an opportunity for those of us not comfortable with "R" rated routes to get on this high quality section of rock.
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Location: MT : Canyon Ferry
By: Ryan Morse When: May 15, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: If you can still find Jake Mergenthaler's "Central Montana Rock" book in print it's definitely worth having, particularly for getting to some of the more obscure areas.
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Location: MT : Canyon Ferry : Avalanche Gulch : Bukowski Buttress
By: Ryan Morse When: May 15, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: HUGE EAR RINGS
I go to pick her up.
she's on some errand.
she always has errands
many things to do.
I have nothing to do.
she comes out of her apartment
I see her move towards my car
she is barefooted
dressed casually
except for huge ear rings.
I light a cigarette
and when I look up
she is stretched out on the street
a quite busy street
all 112 pounds of her
as beautiful as anything you might
imagine
I switch on the new radio
and wait for her to get up.
she does.
I flip the car door ope... more >>
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Location: UT : Saint George : Chuckawalla Wall
By: Ryan Morse When: May 14, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: The kind of crag everyone wishes was just outside of there town for quick pump sessions
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Bear Canyon : ... : Single Lens Reflex (5.10)
By: Ryan Morse When: May 12, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: So it ends at bolts? or are they chopped? If they are chopped you traverse left? or do you continue and higher anchors appear? Or is it a get to the chopped bolts and figure it out on your own deal?
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Windy Point West : ... : Nancy's Crack (5.9 PG13)
By: Ryan Morse When: Apr 28, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I thought the climb had very good movement, and straight forward pro, and good scenery. Likely not PG-13 territory, but blowing the start would be a scary fall on small pro.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Mid-Mountain : ... : Unearth Thee Delights (5.11+)
By: Ryan Morse When: Apr 23, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: This climb is reached by traversing along the base of the cliff until you have to climb over a dead log adjoining a small tree. Once you step over the log, it will be the second set of bolts you come to. The route starts just by a standing pine.
Bouldery start (just before second bolt), and a high crux on the headwall, just before the chains.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Mid-Mountain : ... : Bone Ami (5.9+)
By: Ryan Morse When: Apr 22, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: ATTN: Editor
Please remove this route posting, to allow for someone else to put in relevant information, rather than merely posting personal views in the description section. Being that the area has expanded significantly since the guidebook came out (and that the guidebook author is contributing to the Boneyard area on Mountain Project as well), pertinent, up-to-date information is needed to successfully find many of the routes in this area.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Mid-Mountain : ... : Fire Zone (5.10a)
By: Ryan Morse When: Apr 20, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: The big tree that used to menace this climb is now laying down at the bottom of the cliff (no more feeling up, thankfully). I think this climb is accurately rated at 10a, with the crux being below the first bolt. Once you've cleared the thin balancing act at the start, everything else is in 5.9 range.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Mid-Mountain : ... : Sissyboyz-8 (5.9)
By: Ryan Morse When: Apr 20, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: There are now more bolted routes to the left of this climb, including Onsight or Flight, and Send or Mend (in addition to Small Brown Mouse). Hence, this will now be the 4th boltline you come to, just past the standing tree (by the roots of the toppled tree). Very fun climb.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Summit Crags : ... : Luke Slingwalker (5.7)
By: Ryan Morse When: Apr 19, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: If you're so traditional that a bolt nearby offends you, please climb it trad, skip the bolts, and keep your boldness to yourself. However, if the bolts offend you because others are doing it without your same boldness and you're upset, perhaps you are just being arrogant. Personally, I climb trad and sport without preference (unless it's too runout--aka dangerous--and too close to my own limit for comfort). I have not bolted any routes, but would buy a beer for anyone would puts in bolts, an... more >>
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Location: MT : Gallatin Canyon : Scorched Earth : Scorched Earth : Dirty Harry (5.10b)
By: Ryan Morse When: Apr 19, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route tends to inspire a bit of a love-hate reaction. I've seen people convinced that it requires a dyno, while others make it through with smooth, balancy moves. Definitely a fun climb either way.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Mid-Mountain : ... : Onsight or Flight (5.9-)
By: Ryan Morse When: Apr 19, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I did not find this reachy at all, well bolted this area can be quite cold in the AM. Very fun climb.
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Location: NY : Catskills (Ice) : Kaaterskill Clove : Buttermilk Falls : Buttermilk Falls (WI3-4)
By: Ryan Morse When: Mar 6, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'm not a local and found Kaaterskill Falls proper (which is not on this site but had numerous easy, and very steep routes) instead of Buttermilk falls but I am fairly certain that it falls on 23A somewhere between Haines Falls and Palenville there is quite a bit of ice on that stretch. With the given directions I'm still unsure, more cross referencing to other parking areas and other routes will be required before I understand, but there is plenty of see a climb and walk to it options on 2... more >>
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Location: NY : Adirondacks : Keene Valley Region : Beer Walls : Rockaholic (5.8)
By: Ryan Morse When: Feb 28, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: The bolt anchors were nice while they lasted, however I spoke a local that seemed to be in the know of this chopping, Apparently they were chopped to keep the guides from overusing this great climb I guess while it was bolted big party's were set up TRing it for many hours. The fear of polish and notion of a trip or 2 is OK but hogging all day it is not superseded the ease and saftey of bolted anchors. Cannot say I disagree with the chopping one bit but I am not a local and I did enjoy not ha... more >>
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Location: NY : Adirondacks : Keene Valley Region : The Barkeater Cliff : Fun City (5.7)
By: Ryan Morse When: Feb 28, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: A big piece or 2 was very comforting and strongly recommended.
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Location: NY : Adirondacks : Adirondack Ice Climbing : Chapel Pond and Chapel Pond... : Whales in the Jungle (WI3)
By: Ryan Morse When: Feb 28, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Cant you do a better job than this? You added nothing, actually you added confusion. Please get out your guide book use the information (don't steal previously written material) to spur your memory of the climb where it is in a defining way, what was cool about it, perhaps but not required a beta photo. Otherwise take this down your post so that somebody who has the time to do it right can put up this route. If all routes were put up this poorly this webpage would go away. Be proud of what ... more >>
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Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake George Region : New Buck
By: Ryan Morse When: Feb 28, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: New buck is harder than you think to find. I always think in retrospect that it was not worth the walk but I have found myself here at least 3 times and already justifying the next visit as "well we have been there in forever". Climbing here is mostly slabby with a few cracks and harder variations, and just to reinforce its located just above a swamp a fairly big swamp, think bugs and wet feet early season.
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Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake George Region : Stewarts Ledge : Revolver (5.10b)
By: Ryan Morse When: Feb 28, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Merely the move off the ground through the horizontals make it worth it and the moderate climb via crack and coffee table sized ledges are icing on the cake.
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Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake George Region : Stewarts Ledge : Dog Pounder (5.10b)
By: Ryan Morse When: Feb 28, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Tough corner, slippery stemming tricky balance moves required before 3rd bolt, being small person is helpful for the bottom but the 3rd bolt is reachy (tall person friendly) with scary ground fall potential. The rest of the route is pleasant and sustained, not my favorite but I do it anytime I am out that way.
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Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake George Region : Stewarts Ledge : Lithium (5.10a)
By: Ryan Morse When: Feb 28, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: If you have this route dialed 10a may seem good but going for a first time redpoint 10a seems abit sandbagged, there are some devious/slopey/small you don't want to be on for too long type holds.
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Location: NY : Adirondacks : Keene Valley Region : Jewels and Gems : In The Rough (5.7+)
By: Ryan Morse When: Feb 28, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I love this crack. The weird layback possibilities, small offwidth, good hand jams up high, and a micro roof. Its not steep, it has lots of rope drag once you top out, but I rate it five stars I think its the best on this wall. Different strokes for different folks, my significant other hates it. The short coming is the non-anchor situation the second will have to be brought up from the top unless you put in a gear anchor just past the roof or use that dead tree to the right.
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Location: MT : Stone Hill
By: Ryan Morse When: Jan 30, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Believe it or not - there is climbing in MT... go back to Empire State. I feel offended, seriously but thanks for adding routes I guess.
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Location: VA : Cascades Bouldering : Photo
By: Ryan Morse When: Jan 2, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Having never been to Blacksburg (or even VA for that matter) when could I expect to find water ice there. I am moving there March and wanted to know if these kind of conditions could be possible then.
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