Comments: Does anyone have any info about the newer routes between Monkey to Monk and Narrows East? Seem like a bunch right on the corner that are still part of the Narrows formation and then around the corner too.
Comments: There is now a mussy hook station at the end of the first pitch finger crack. A 70m rope just works for top-roping the first pitch. A 60 would probably work if you lowered off to climber's right. OK route, kind of a 2 move wonder with a fun easy crack finish.
Comments: Easy climbing, steep hauling, and the ability to make some fast time on the bolt ladders make this the easiest route over on the right side. Certainly not the best climbing though. Zodiac is definitely a step up in difficulty, but WAAAAAY better.
Comments: Climbed in one long pitch, itīs first half is really fun crack climbing with a green/red camalot traverse (think Airy Interlude), but the second half is pretty mungy grainy run-out climbing til you hit the anchor ledge. The bolta are nice new beefy 3/8ths.
Comments: Actually, going against what the above route description says, this route is pretty damn fun. You get a little bit of everything from stemming to liebacking to face climbing. Stay left of the wide wormhole chimney- either run it out or lean back in to place gear intermittently. And there is now a 3 bolt rap station for both this climb and for Pass Time to the left of it.
Comments: This area is experiencing EXTREME access issues. This is a favorite spot for illegals entering the country and is heavily patrolled by border agents. Helicopter fly-bys and border agents on ATVs with unholstered handguns is now the current state of sport climbing in Otay. Climbing is prohibited as posted on the signage above the cliff, and the routes are really not even worth the hassle. Rusted cold shut bolts? We should send Mr. Messier to Otay for all his bolt chopping pleasure!
Comments: I have been searching for a while now for current route conditions.
If you want the full on bolt chopping history, go to climbingsandiego.com. Read the first posted link, it lays it out there pretty well in a couple of letters from involved parties. Be prepared. This dude is psychotic.
If anyone has any current info on mutilated routes, it would be appreciated. We have been hearing stories of... more >>