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Member Since: Jan 23, 2005
Last Visit: Apr 19, 2005
Contact Ryan Avery


Point Rank: # 3,846
Total Points: 118
Last Year: 0
Last 30 Days: 0
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Ryan Avery been climbing?










Contributions


All 61 | Routes 4 | Areas 2 | Photos 5 | Page Improvements | Comments 23 | Posts | Stars 18 | Ratings 9

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : The Wall : The Wall - Left Side : Hands Off (5.8)
By: Ryan Avery When: Oct 9, 2005

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Comments: Well, I liked this one too for the first 15 feet until I decked and broke my ankle in 3 places. Watch out for the opening moves and place early and often. I placed a bomber hex and #6 bd nut that held great. The problem, I didn't place when I had the chance at 15' up. A lesson to all leaders who get lazy with an easy grade such as this one. Awkward 5.8+.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Aiguille de Joshua Tree : Aiguille de Joshua Tree (ak... (5.5 X)
By: Ryan Avery When: Apr 4, 2005

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Comments: Definitely a must do before your Josh days are over.It was three or four 5.6 moves once on the ledge for me. The mantle and standing up is the mental crux as the top is sloping downward. Bring a camera.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland of Rocks : The Cornerstone
By: Ryan Avery When: Apr 4, 2005

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Comments: This rock is a good hour hike/scramble from the Wonderland Parking Area. Worth the time to climb if in the area. This and other far flung Wonderland destinations are probably better done as a short backpacking trip on a weekend instead of a day hike.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland of Rocks : The Red Obelisk : The Red Obelisk (aka Booger... (5.10b)
By: Ryan Avery When: Apr 4, 2005

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Comments: I enjoyed this one. A way better lead for the expereince I think, but then I have only led it. Like mentioned above its a bit interesting stepping off the ledge into the crux. Definitely worth the hike.

Bring a couple quickdraws and a sling for the chicken head. Thats all you need so its a light and fast one.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Quail Springs Area : Hound Rock : White Powder (5.7)
By: Ryan Avery When: Mar 26, 2005

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Comments: This route wasn't so bad if you like wide rotten cracks. I for one hate wide rotten cracks so I was glad to pass the lead to my partner. I would say this route is a good warm up to Tossed Green or on your way to the White Cliffs of Dover.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : The Outback : Peyote Cracks Formation : Peyote Cracks Formation - W... : Middle Peyote Crack (5.9)
By: Ryan Avery When: Mar 26, 2005

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Comments: This thing was not so hot in my book. I think it is awkward at best.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : The Outback : Rock Hudson : Nereltne (5.7)
By: Ryan Avery When: Mar 26, 2005

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Comments: I disagre with this being a "safte lead". You are faced with the choice of either running out an easy but steep ramp about 20 feet off the deck, or a wide low angle hard to protect chimney/offwidth to reach the corner.

Otherwise, the climbing is solid and if a full pitch would be a super classic route. Leave the small stuff on the deck as you will only want 2" and higher for this one.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : The Outback : Rock Hudson : Looney Tunes (5.9)
By: Ryan Avery When: Mar 26, 2005

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Comments: Yack, I did this thing on 2nd and wished I was on lead. Make sure your partner places the same as you otherwise you will be wishing for some other fate as you try to pull pro at the crux.

Overall, a good climb but stay away if you don't like chimneys as the one at the top is strenous getting in and out.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Hall of Horrors Area : Hall of Horrors : ... : Nurn's Romp (5.8)
By: Ryan Avery When: Mar 9, 2005

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Comments: I have leapt the chasm. Not recommended.

I would say this has maybe two 5.8 moves at the roof and then a rather short 5.6/5.7 crack. Fun route with good moves.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : Hidden Tower : Sail Away (5.8-)
By: Ryan Avery When: Mar 9, 2005

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Comments: This thing ate so much gear I was sorry to see it come to an end. I think I placed 11 pieces and 9 of them nuts. Stellar climb, probably best saved for a less busy weekday if you have the chance as I did.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Ryan Campground : Headstone Rock : SW Corner (5.6)
By: Ryan Avery When: Mar 9, 2005

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Comments: Who hasn't done this route? Either way, its a good climb. I think I've done it 6 times or so over the years.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Little Rock Candy Mountain : Little Rock Candy Crack (5.7)
By: Ryan Avery When: Mar 9, 2005

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Comments: Be careful to protect the horizontals and have your belayer stand close to the rock during this section. I think the initial 15 feet and the last 10 feet are the cruxes.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Little Rock Candy Mountain : M & Ms Plain (5.9)
By: Ryan Avery When: Mar 9, 2005

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Comments: I can't figure out this one either. It was ok, but it crack is flared and I wouldn't lead it. I TR'ed it after leading Little Rock Candy Crack just to the right. Easier than it looks, but wouldn't gear up all that good. I would recommend a TR up if you are in the area.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : Cyclops Rock : The Eye (5.4)
By: Ryan Avery When: Feb 28, 2005

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Comments: This thing is better as a solo than a lead. There are ok gear placements higher up but a fall wouldn't be pretty from any part due to all the ledges. Good thing the climbing is really easy.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Lost Horse Wall : Lost Horse Wall - Right Sid... : The Swift (5.7)
By: Ryan Avery When: Feb 26, 2005

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Comments: This route has rope drag for sure. I followed the advice of the above posters and still found a bit of rope drag. I would recommend doing running it out at the traverse to minimize the drag if you are solid at 5.7. Otherwise deal with the drag for safety. Gain the overlapping corner on pitch 3 for some fun exposed moves and avoid the tempation to go straight up the dihedral, its definitely 5.9.Do Dappled Mare instead. Its right there and is a way better climb for your time.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove Campground : Moosedog Tower : Direct South Face (5.9)
By: Ryan Avery When: Feb 26, 2005

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Comments: The shallow flaring crack leading to the roof protects well with yellow and green aliens. I think there was a good thin nut in there as well.I thought this move was relatively easy for Josh 5.9 if you use the two pockets on the face for hand holds and use a little finesse. I would say that if you tried to use the roof crack only it would be a burly 5.9 move indeed.The upper sections are easy climbing but tricky pro. If you pass up some pro options you will be running it out for a ways on easy... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove Campground : Billboard Buttress : We Dive At Dawn (5.8)
By: Ryan Avery When: Feb 26, 2005

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Comments: I led this one without putting pro in the first 15 feet. I would agree with Woody that you should throw a small stopper in. As for the "bomber cam" above mentioned, I saw nothing but poor alien placements in the first few feet.All the placements were solid and came along at just the right time for me. Solid and fairly sustained 5.8 for the first half to the ledge.I didn't have a large cam with me so the final face moves were really run-out. Traverse right if you really can't handle the runou... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : The Outback : Steve Canyon Area : Steve Canyon : ... : Deflowered (5.7)
By: Ryan Avery When: Jan 26, 2005

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Comments: This odd climb is made fun by starting in the cave below the usual starting blcok. Adds a bit of caving expereince to the whole thing and an otherwise interesting climb.

Not for new leaders for sure.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove Campground : King Otto's Castle : Plain But Good Hearted (5.6 PG13)
By: Ryan Avery When: Jan 26, 2005

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Comments: Wierd Pro to say the least. For extra fun, lead it with only hexes and couple smallish cams. I think there were a total of two good pieces of pro on this one. Not your usual runout face for Josh as it was not so frictiony and more "5.6 edging".

Worth doing if you are in the area and solid at the grade.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove Campground : King Otto's Castle : Sweat Band (5.10c PG13)
By: Ryan Avery When: Jan 26, 2005

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Comments: I wasn't impressed with this route at all. Interesting moves at times but I forgot it as soon as I rapped off. Good bye Mr. Bond is way better. Either way, the heckling tourons at the base really bug me anyway. Indian Cove is best saved for a week day with no boy scouts or other objectionable sorts yelling "Use your feet!" to thier fellow "climbers".


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Echo Cove : Echo Cove - South Side : Deceptive Corner (5.7)
By: Ryan Avery When: Jan 23, 2005

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Comments: I think the left slanting crack at the start took 3 cams in the .75ish range. If you want to top rope this one you need to leave a cam in the lower crack for a directional. The crux is topping out off a layback move using the hand crack for additional puchase. Be sure to climb the face to the left of the corner and not the actual corner which is probably 5.10+.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Echo Cove : Echo Cove - North Side : The Sound of One Shoe Tappi... (5.8)
By: Ryan Avery When: Jan 23, 2005

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Comments: This route was a total push over. I can't see how it was 5.8. Maybe if you worked the moves for a while you could make it 5.8 but I think this route was 5.7.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Echo Cove : Echo Cove - South Side : Boulder Dash (5.9)
By: Ryan Avery When: Jan 23, 2005

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Comments: I led this one from the 5.10 start and I thought the moves between the horizontals weren't that bad in the 5.8 range. Use some aliens to protect the horizontals and run it out a bit.