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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : The Wall : The Wall - Left Side : Hands Off (5.8)
By: Ryan Avery When: Oct 9, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Well, I liked this one too for the first 15 feet until I decked and broke my ankle in 3 places. Watch out for the opening moves and place early and often. I placed a bomber hex and #6 bd nut that held great. The problem, I didn't place when I had the chance at 15' up. A lesson to all leaders who get lazy with an easy grade such as this one. Awkward 5.8+.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Aiguille de Joshua Tree : Aiguille de Joshua Tree (ak... (5.5 X)
By: Ryan Avery When: Apr 4, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Definitely a must do before your Josh days are over.It was three or four 5.6 moves once on the ledge for me. The mantle and standing up is the mental crux as the top is sloping downward. Bring a camera.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland of Rocks : The Cornerstone
By: Ryan Avery When: Apr 4, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: This rock is a good hour hike/scramble from the Wonderland Parking Area. Worth the time to climb if in the area. This and other far flung Wonderland destinations are probably better done as a short backpacking trip on a weekend instead of a day hike.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland of Rocks : The Red Obelisk : The Red Obelisk (aka Booger... (5.10b)
By: Ryan Avery When: Apr 4, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: I enjoyed this one. A way better lead for the expereince I think, but then I have only led it. Like mentioned above its a bit interesting stepping off the ledge into the crux. Definitely worth the hike.
Bring a couple quickdraws and a sling for the chicken head. Thats all you need so its a light and fast one.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Quail Springs Area : Hound Rock : White Powder (5.7)
By: Ryan Avery When: Mar 26, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route wasn't so bad if you like wide rotten cracks. I for one hate wide rotten cracks so I was glad to pass the lead to my partner. I would say this route is a good warm up to Tossed Green or on your way to the White Cliffs of Dover.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : The Outback : Peyote Cracks Formation : Peyote Cracks Formation - W... : Middle Peyote Crack (5.9)
By: Ryan Avery When: Mar 26, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: This thing was not so hot in my book. I think it is awkward at best.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : The Outback : Rock Hudson : Nereltne (5.7)
By: Ryan Avery When: Mar 26, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: I disagre with this being a "safte lead". You are faced with the choice of either running out an easy but steep ramp about 20 feet off the deck, or a wide low angle hard to protect chimney/offwidth to reach the corner.
Otherwise, the climbing is solid and if a full pitch would be a super classic route. Leave the small stuff on the deck as you will only want 2" and higher for this one.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : The Outback : Rock Hudson : Looney Tunes (5.9)
By: Ryan Avery When: Mar 26, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yack, I did this thing on 2nd and wished I was on lead. Make sure your partner places the same as you otherwise you will be wishing for some other fate as you try to pull pro at the crux.
Overall, a good climb but stay away if you don't like chimneys as the one at the top is strenous getting in and out.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Hall of Horrors Area : Hall of Horrors : ... : Nurn's Romp (5.8)
By: Ryan Avery When: Mar 9, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: I have leapt the chasm. Not recommended.
I would say this has maybe two 5.8 moves at the roof and then a rather short 5.6/5.7 crack. Fun route with good moves.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : Hidden Tower : Sail Away (5.8-)
By: Ryan Avery When: Mar 9, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: This thing ate so much gear I was sorry to see it come to an end. I think I placed 11 pieces and 9 of them nuts. Stellar climb, probably best saved for a less busy weekday if you have the chance as I did.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Ryan Campground : Headstone Rock : SW Corner (5.6)
By: Ryan Avery When: Mar 9, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Who hasn't done this route? Either way, its a good climb. I think I've done it 6 times or so over the years.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Little Rock Candy Mountain : Little Rock Candy Crack (5.7)
By: Ryan Avery When: Mar 9, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Be careful to protect the horizontals and have your belayer stand close to the rock during this section. I think the initial 15 feet and the last 10 feet are the cruxes.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Little Rock Candy Mountain : M & Ms Plain (5.9)
By: Ryan Avery When: Mar 9, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: I can't figure out this one either. It was ok, but it crack is flared and I wouldn't lead it. I TR'ed it after leading Little Rock Candy Crack just to the right. Easier than it looks, but wouldn't gear up all that good. I would recommend a TR up if you are in the area.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : Cyclops Rock : The Eye (5.4)
By: Ryan Avery When: Feb 28, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: This thing is better as a solo than a lead. There are ok gear placements higher up but a fall wouldn't be pretty from any part due to all the ledges. Good thing the climbing is really easy.
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