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Member Since: Oct 6, 2002
Last Visit: Nov 29, 2012
Contact Russell Oakley


Point Rank: # 3,094
Total Points: 160
Last Year: 0
Last 30 Days: 0
15 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Russell Oakley been climbing?










Contributions


All 90 | Routes | Areas | Photos 27 | Page Improvements | Comments 25 | Posts | Stars 35 | Ratings 3
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Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
Simul on the North Ridge.

Simul on the North Ridge.

CO : Flatirons : ... : Direct Route (5.6 R)

Jul 16, 2003

Russell Oakley at the second bolt.  Leanne Hanson ...

Russell Oakley at the second bolt. Leanne Hanson Photographer

CO : Shelf Road : ... : Suburbia (5.10b/c)

Jun 11, 2003

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - SW Face : ... : Photo
By: Russell Oakley When: Nov 29, 2012

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Comments: I was wondering how long it would take for someone to notice-- only 7.5 years, not bad...


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : J-Crack Slab Area : Pear Buttress (5.8)
By: Russell Oakley When: May 10, 2005

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Comments: Hmmm, maybe I had my expectations too high today after reading all of the gushing comments above. I think Melvin's Wheel was better. The hand crack was nice, the little 5.9 var. added some spice, but this route is definitely not on my list of all-time favorites-- pretty good, but I probably won't go back to do it again.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Sherwood Forest : Maid Marian (5.9)
By: Russell Oakley When: May 10, 2005

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Comments: "Comfortable for the grade" = maybe, 5.7+?

IMO, 5.9 is hard. Boulder Canyon grades are soft.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Wadsworth Boulevard (5.10c)
By: Russell Oakley When: Apr 16, 2005

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Comments: Tons of fun, short cruxes, lots of rests. This has to be the easiest 10c at Shelf, considering I got up it no problem...

I thought Blackman's Burden, Christmas Tree, and Politically Incorrect were all way harder.

Good luck getting on it on a weekend.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Glacier Gorge : Black Lake Slabs (WI2-3)
By: Russell Oakley When: Feb 23, 2005

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Comments: More on V-threads: THE AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB E-NEWS February 2005

Dear Members,

New techniques can make climbing safer, easier, and more fun, but they also may be abused. One such technique is the V-thread anchor for ice climbing, in which two intersecting holes are drilled in solid ice and a sling is threaded through the holes for a quick, solid, and inexpensive anchor. Problem is: When the ice melts, that sling becomes trash. As more climbers adopt the V-thread for a convenient anchor, land m... more >>


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : Greyrock : Southeast Face : Theodore (5.6)
By: Russell Oakley When: Jan 19, 2005

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Comments: Nice route on nice, featured rock. The middle pitches reminded me of the Fifth Flatiron or Seal Rock, kinda.

P1 was pretty straightforward, very good pro. After crossing under the big roof, I pretty much went straight up. Staying close to the left- facing dihedral as mentioned above felt more like 5.6s to me: there were many very nice small edges, and I was comfortable climbing without the rope. Continuing straight up just to the right of the big juniper, there is another 5.6s section, pr... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - S Buttress : The Bulge (5.7 R)
By: Russell Oakley When: Nov 3, 2004

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Comments: Yet another comment-- I was also lured above the obvious ramp on p2, and my feet stayed about 6 feet above it all the way to the belay. I didn't feel the need to downclimb, and found jugs all the way to the belay. This route is the juggiest i have yet climbed at Eldo-- huge holds everywhere.


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Rim Routes : The Painted Wall
By: Russell Oakley When: Oct 1, 2004

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Comments: My college advisor, David Lovejoy, was on the FA of the Dragon route. He told me that he was the most scared he had ever been the whole time (several days on the wall, not sure exactly). He said there were times when he thought the whole party might rip from the wall. Rusty Baillie was the major force behind completing the climb; many people at Prescott College think he is totally crazy. I personally think he is made of bigger and better stuff than the rest of us. I have never cli... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : West Ironing Board
By: Russell Oakley When: Aug 27, 2004

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Comments: I was scrambling around behind this rock a few years ago (lost, of course) and ran into a mountain lion. He definitely saw me first and gave me the "Go away, please" growl. That was all I needed to decide on a new route, up a chimney (faster than I have ever climbed), through a cool arch, then out across the east face, depositing me almost at the base of the climb I was looking for, the Crescent.

Just another day in the woods


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Willy B : East Face/Willy B (5.8 X)
By: Russell Oakley When: Apr 6, 2004

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Comments: I rope- soloed this route several years ago. I got a good cam just before the crux, then some opposed nuts way out on the right edge about 30 or more feet later (probably not worth the trouble). The climbing on this face is just steep enough and sweet.

S or vs means "don't fall" to me.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Backporch : East Face/Back Porch (5.6)
By: Russell Oakley When: Apr 6, 2004

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Comments: Man, I must be crazy, but I love this route, especially the direct start pitch. This pitch feels adventurous (loose, sparse pro), but it isn't that hard. Just step lightly and don't fall.

The fixed gear on p2 is from the 1950s and is not to be missed. I could flex the eye with my fingers, but I clipped it anyway.

In the summer the ants rule the ledge above p2. Belay above and left of the tree, lest ye have to dance with ants in yer pants!


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Third Flatiron
By: Russell Oakley When: Apr 5, 2004

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Comments: What I have overheard is usually 8 minutes, though no one can ever give a name...

My best time bottom to top is 14 minutes, and I nearly passed out

Some other Third trivia, from Ament's High Over Boulder:

Ist roller skate ascent: Dale Johnson (no date)1st no- hands ascent: Baker Armstrong (no date)

East Face eye bolts placed by Ev and Carleton Long in 1931.

The West side rappel anchor bolts were replaced just recently-- 01, 02, 03?


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... : The Zot Face (5.8+)
By: Russell Oakley When: Apr 5, 2004

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Comments: The caption on the picture of RO below should read p4, not p5. Sorry.

To find where to traverse back right on p4, look for the place where the handcrack opens up into a kind of hollow, maybe only 30- 40 feet from where the crack starts. It is a bit run- out to the belay, but I found it easy, similar to the last 50 feet of Ruper.

Using double ropes eliminated rope drag completely, and nicely protected the second on the run- out bits.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... : Green Slab Direct (5.9)
By: Russell Oakley When: Mar 31, 2004

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Comments: For what its worth-- I found another pin to the right of the roof on p1 (see photo below). Using double ropes made for zero rope drag, and the pitch felt nicely sewed up...


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... : The Zot Face (5.8+)
By: Russell Oakley When: Mar 31, 2004

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Comments: Okay, specifics: At the belay on top of p4 (the sweet traverse left, then back right), there is an obvious overhead flake with a crack behind. I stuck a 1.75 (green) forged friend in it and gave a tug-- the crack opened and creaked like an outhouse door (i.e. it was shit). The next pitch is littered with attached and unattached chunks of various sizes, as is the last. My partner mentioned tugging on an alien and opening up a flake on p5.

As this route is considered popular, I was surprised ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... : The Zot Face (5.8+)
By: Russell Oakley When: Mar 29, 2004

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Comments: Uninformed accusations, to be sure. Not a pebble was sent down by me, nor by my partner that morning. I do recall, however, that some rock came down from that area in the afternoon. We had just finished Darkness Til Dawn (so I guess I was climbing within my abilities, as ZF was the day's warmup), and someone hollered rock, and there were a couple of dumbasses standing around underneath (gray t-shirts?) without helmets. So what did they do? They looked up (so the rock would hit them in the f... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part E - top t... : S&M (5.7)
By: Russell Oakley When: Mar 24, 2004

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Comments: I climbed this route today, and also found it fun. I stopped at the first good seat above the dead tree, and found an excellent tcu crack overhead for belay anchor. Since no pro on the bottom, my partner tried the 10 bit to the left, and soon weighted said anchor. He also reefed on the dead tree pretty good. It gasped, but held. I think a well placed karate kick will send it home. We found rappels up and left on trees.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... : The Zot Face (5.8+)
By: Russell Oakley When: Mar 22, 2004

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Comments: There is a very large amount of large loose rock on this face. Be especially aware of expando flakes that would fail under weighted cams. I saw many people below us today without hard hats. Wake up brothers and sisters. This sport is risky enough without having someone above kill you with a bomb. You have been warned.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part A - Versc... : Verschneidung (5.7)
By: Russell Oakley When: Jan 27, 2004

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Comments: Do Green Dihedral at Mickey Mouse Wall instead. Now there's one I remember...


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part A - Versc... : Verschneidung (5.7)
By: Russell Oakley When: Jan 26, 2004

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Comments: Ok so I was Ed's partner that day-- June 2, 2002, to be exact, but beyond that, I don't remember anything about this climb, besides swearing and sweating. Does that mean it's forgettable? In Eldo? Is it possible that there are crack climbs in eldo that suck? It has to be me, because the pictures look admittedly sweet. I dont remember hanging out, maybe more grunt and groan. Who knows, Ed, maybe if we master el Verschneidung, then maybe we could someday aspire to Over the Hill??


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Shanahan Crag : Identity Theft (5.7+)
By: Russell Oakley When: Oct 21, 2003

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Comments: I did this a few years ago, also off target. I found the pro marginal and sparse. I broke off a sizable hold on the fin bit, backed off, and bailed right. A fall on this route could be very serious. We found evidence of recent large rockfall in this area (winter, 2001 (?). Test your holds.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Valley of the Gods/Mexican ... : Mexican Hat : Bandito Route (C1)
By: Russell Oakley When: Sep 3, 2003

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Comments: FYI- A piece of the history of this route

I was with my "Rock Guide Training" instructor, Rusty Baillie, receiving credit from Prescott College, in AZ. It was 1991, and I was 22. He was at least 62, and way harder than me.

A quick note on Baillie- He grew up in Rhodesia. He is pretty tall and lean, and his smile is broad. His climbing credits include the FA of The Old Man of Hoy (w/ Joe Brown on TV in Scotland- Baillie was on the rigging team), the 40th ascent of the N. Face of the Eiger (... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Third Flatiron
By: Russell Oakley When: Aug 4, 2003

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Comments: I have had a few run- ins with aggressive birds, once at a cliff site (prairie falcons), and a handfull on radio and cell towers (swainson's hawks and western kingbirds), and in every instance, the birds were extremely pissed. Kingbirds were the most aggressive, actually hitting my hard hat, whereas the raptors kept their distance more, while letting me know that they were very unhappy.

I have worked as a volunteer raptor monitor for BOS (at the Matron), and I would recommend it to anybody. I... more >>


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