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Member Since: Oct 1, 2002
Last Visit: Aug 21, 2015
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Total Points: 598
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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All 652 | Routes 16 | Areas 3 | Photos 35 | Page Improvements | Comments 218 | Posts 46 | Stars 175 | Ratings 159
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : *Joshua Tree Bouldering* : Hall of Horrors Bouldering : King Dome Area : ... : Lynn Hill Memorial Face Pro... (V4)
By: RTM When: Aug 21, 2015

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Comments: This problem was established by Lynn Hill, and then dubbed "LHMFP" by her friends nearly 40 years ago! I think they knew that she was alive at that time. The term "memorial face problem" is a JT tradition. The John Bachar Memorial Face Problem was also named in the 70s, decades before he died. There are others as well.


Location: CA : San Jacinto Mountains : The Tramway : Shangri-La Valley : The West Rim
By: RTM When: Aug 18, 2015

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Comments: There is a variation start to this problem, beginning under the roof at a large hueco. Its a bit of a squeeze, but its a cool problem. Called it Antikythera Mechanism (v5).


Location: CA : San Jacinto Mountains : The Tramway : Area 51/Deer Canyon : Yo Picasso (aka Sunshine Da... : ... : Photo
By: RTM When: Aug 5, 2015

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Comments: Sunshine Daydream climbs the rails to the right of the chimney.


Location: CA : San Jacinto Mountains : The Tramway : Area 51/Deer Canyon : Yo Picasso (aka Sunshine Da... : Sunshine Daydream (aka Yo P... (V4)
By: RTM When: Aug 5, 2015

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Comments: The true line actually travels the face to the right of the chimney, which is the classic v4. Back in the day, the chimney was a rotting mess, so the obvious thing to climb was the beautiful clean rails to the right. The chimney is probably v0+, by oldschool standards!


Location: CA : San Jacinto Mountains : The Tramway : Shangri-La Valley : The Dance Floor : ... : Split (V3)
By: RTM When: Jul 12, 2015

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Comments: I did my FA of this problem maybe 5 years ago. I don't recall what I called it, I will try to find that info. This cluster of boulders is in the book, page 155!


Location: CA : Sequoia & Kings Canyon NP : SEKI Bouldering : Cedar Grove Boulders
By: RTM When: Jun 20, 2015

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Comments: Is this in King's Canyon? If so, it should perhaps be in the Kings Canyon section (or perhaps the site should dissolve the Kings section). My Wife and I did a bit of bouldering there maybe 10 years ago or so, we climbed 25 problems or thereabouts. There is some info and photos on the Kings Canyon page.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : *Joshua Tree Bouldering* : Planet X Bouldering : The Hang : ... : Nicole Overhang (V6)
By: RTM When: Feb 9, 2015

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Comments: In around the year 1998, the Fred Nicole told me about this line. He was unsure if he did the FA, and he suggested v8 for grade. I had not heard of the line before that. Many years later Eric Zscheschie claimed the FA on it, said he did that and Kingpin during the same timeframe, which I believe was in the mid 1980's.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : *Joshua Tree Bouldering* : Outback Bouldering : White Rastafarian Boulder : White Rastafarian (V1+ R)
By: RTM When: Jan 16, 2015

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Comments: Hey hey now, I downrated to a v2 in the book based on a long list of people calling it soft. I do agree with the crux being similar in difficulty to Bearded Cabbage though. Many .10 routes in JT have .11 cruxes, and BC is no exception, so...

If I recall correctly, I did not give it a v1+ when I wrote this page back in 2002.

All this is waxing gibbons though - on a line this beautiful, why even give a s#!t about the rating?


Location: CA : San Jacinto Mountains : The Tramway : Shangri-La Valley : Shangri-La : ... : Back-Off (V3)
By: RTM When: Nov 3, 2014

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Comments: I don't think that is the line in the vid. Back-Off kinda faces out into Shangri-La. And the cubby is more cubby'ish!


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : *Joshua Tree Bouldering* : Hidden Valley Campground Bo... : Manx/Asteroid Belt Circuit : ... : Sitting Bull (V4)
By: RTM When: Oct 15, 2014

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Comments: The site is kinda notorious for naming unnamed problems, even when they had nothing to do with the first ascent!


Location: CA : San Jacinto Mountains : The Tramway : Undiscovered Country : JCVD (Jean Claud Van Dam) b... : JCVD (Jean Claud Van Dam) (V6-)
By: RTM When: Oct 7, 2014

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Comments: Looks like it could have been fun climbing. Unfortunately, when I scoped it out, it had footlong tick marks all over it. By the time I cleaned them off, it was time to leave!


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : *Joshua Tree Bouldering* : Planet X Bouldering : The Hang : ... : Strawberry Contraceptives (V7)
By: RTM When: Sep 8, 2014

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Comments: Both this climb and Nicole Overhang were originally rated v8, and then later downstroked. I also found this climb to be easier than Nicole Overhang.


Location: CA : San Jacinto Mountains : The Tramway : Shangri-La Valley : The Dance Floor : ... : Humpin' the Walrus (V4)
By: RTM When: Jun 24, 2014

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Comments: Chad!


Location: CA : San Jacinto Mountains : The Tramway : Area 51/Deer Canyon : The Mobius : The Mobius (V4)
By: RTM When: Jun 16, 2014

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Comments: Christina Miramontes did the FA of this.


Location: CA : San Jacinto Mountains : The Tramway : Flash Gordon Area : Warm-Up Boulder : Slumpback of Notre Dame (V1)
By: RTM When: Jun 3, 2014

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Comments: thanks for clarifying, although I'm still confused about the line you describe. The unnamed crack line tops out directly above the crack with a somewhat funky mantel, as described in the book. I have climbed many variations in this stretch of rock, including traversing left from the crack to top out at jugs as you describe, and also sit starting at the Tree Problem and traversing right to topout at the unnamed crack. They are all fun variations, but all easier than v2.


Location: CA : San Jacinto Mountains : The Tramway : Long Valley : Ranger Station Rocks : ... : Da Block (V4)
By: RTM When: Jun 2, 2014

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Comments: Is this the line that starts at a football size black xeno, then moves right, to the arete? If so, this is Damon Corso's line, I think he called Da Block or something.


Location: CA : San Jacinto Mountains : The Tramway : Flash Gordon Area : Warm-Up Boulder : Slumpback of Notre Dame (V1)
By: RTM When: Jun 2, 2014

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Comments: How does this differ from the v0 crack line, which is in the same spot as the climber in the photo?


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Ken Black Memorial Dome : Blackheart (5.10b)
By: RTM When: May 22, 2014

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Comments: I found Blackheart to be stout for the grade of .10b


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : *Joshua Tree Bouldering* : Real Hidden Valley Boulderi... : Turtle Rock Circuit : ... : So High (V5 R)
By: RTM When: Apr 13, 2014

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Comments: Blame Urban Climber, for perpetuating hype! Dare we mention that they also upstroked it to v6, despite 30 years of consensus v5/B1.


Location: CA : San Jacinto Mountains : The Tramway : Shangri-La Valley : The Beach : ... : Devil's Dance (V12)
By: RTM When: Mar 18, 2014

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Comments: Dan Mills did the first ascent of this extension.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland of Rocks : Wonderland North : North Wonderland Approach : ... : Fresh Squeezed (5.10a)
By: RTM When: Mar 11, 2014

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Comments: Perhaps you were on a different route? This climb is fairly new and has fresh bolts, and unless all the jugs broke off of the headwall...


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : *Joshua Tree Bouldering* : Echo Rock Bouldering : Echo Cove Bouldering : ... : Chorizo Tacos (V4)
By: RTM When: Mar 7, 2014

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Comments: I heard that the starting hold exploded on this one!


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : *Joshua Tree Bouldering* : Real Hidden Valley Boulderi... : Turtle Rock Circuit : ... : So High (V5 R)
By: RTM When: Jan 31, 2014

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Comments: I always thought it was presumptuous of Lisa and company to claim the "first Female ascent" on this one, given that they know nothing of Josh history!


Location: CA : San Jacinto Mountains : The Tramway : Shangri-La Valley : Shangri-La : ... : Unnamed V7 (V7)
By: RTM When: Dec 23, 2013

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Comments: I'm about 99.9% sure that this is my FA. Name still to come!


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Queen Mountain : Olympic Dome : Icon (5.10c)
By: RTM When: Dec 22, 2013

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Comments: This is one of the best 5.10 trad lines I have done in Josh. May not be a pure crack, but what a great climb! Polished smooth patina. I am stunned that its a Todd Gordon route - no 20ft tall congealed oatmeal slabs here!!


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