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Great jug hauling at the start <br />Wake and Bake (5.11+)


Member Since: Jul 19, 2010
Last Visit: 2 days ago
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Point Rank: # 241
Total Points: 2,193
Last Year: 406
Last 30 Days: 85
186 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 1482 | Routes 49 | Areas 8 | Photos 304 | Page Improvments | Comments 63 | Posts 20 | Stars 818 | Ratings 220
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Winter Wall : Gopher Broke (5.10c)
By: Rstrang When: Feb 3, 2013

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Comments: I thought the route was trickier than Grape Ape but not quite so pumpy. I'll let the consensus votes bump it up to .10d. It felt easy with the multiple rests. The rock was a lot better than I thought it was going to be and this could turn into the standard warm-up route along with Grape Ape. However, there's a lot of dirt on the holds that the wind would not let us brush off so this route could use several days or weeks to clean up. The rock and holds are mostly real clean & solid.

Also use lon... more >>


Location: NM : New Mexico, other Southern ... : Last Chance Canyon : Beer Garden : Unknown Beer (4) (5.11a)
By: Rstrang When: Nov 28, 2012

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Comments: I thought this was almost as good as Cutter. Another Last Chance must do


Location: NM : New Mexico, other Southern ... : Last Chance Canyon : Mad Cow Wall : Cutter (5.11c)
By: Rstrang When: Nov 28, 2012

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Comments: I won't dispute Monomaniac's comment. Must Do Route


Location: NM : New Mexico, other Southern ... : Last Chance Canyon : Tornado Alley : Swept Away (5.12b)
By: Rstrang When: Nov 28, 2012

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Comments: INCREDIBLE!!!
Nuff said!


Location: NM : New Mexico, other Southern ... : Last Chance Canyon : Tornado Alley : Gustnado (5.11a)
By: Rstrang When: Nov 28, 2012

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Comments: Another one of the must do .11's. in the canyon - Unknown Beer (4) and Cutter being the others (I think Shakka might be on that list too but I didn't get on it)


Location: NM : New Mexico, other Southern ... : Last Chance Canyon : Solstice Cave : Eternal Sunshine (5.12a)
By: Rstrang When: Nov 28, 2012

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Comments: This one's a 4 star route that gets downgraded because of several EVEN BETTER!! 5.12's (ie. Swept Away). Really fun must do pitch


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Early Wall : Early Wall - Right End : JetStream (5.11-)
By: Rstrang When: Jun 15, 2012

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Comments: The rock and movement on this route is real nice. It would get 3 stars if escape onto "Rednecks" wasn't so easy. Definitely worth doing though! I think its a good warm-up route for some of the longer routes near-by - It feels more like Diablo 5.10+ to me but I may know the moves too well.


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Early Wall : Early Wall - Right End : Drunk Rednecks with Golf Cl... (5.8+)
By: Rstrang When: May 15, 2012

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Comments: Anyone been working on a new route between Drunk Rednecks & Clip Art (at the Runway/Early Wall)? We cleaned the line partialy about 2 weeks ago and added a directional bolt. Last Friday, Mike noticed a set of anchors above the line that I don't recall being there before. Anyone planning anything?



Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon
By: Rstrang When: May 11, 2012

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Comments: Anyone been working on a new route between Drunk Rednecks & Clip Art (at the Runway/Early Wall)? We cleaned the line partialy about 2 weeks ago and added a directional bolt. Last Friday, Mike noticed a set of anchors above the line that I don't recall being there before. Anyone planning anything?


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Sun Devil Wall : Heat Seeker (5.11-)
By: Rstrang When: Apr 11, 2012

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Comments: Thanks Aaron. I think you'll really like those upper pitches. It's really fun and varied climbing on real nice rock. Really cool exit


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Sun Devil Wall : Heat Seeker (5.11-)
By: Rstrang When: Apr 7, 2012

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Comments: All the climbing turned out to be really cool, especally the upper pitches
We cleaned all pitches quite well but still approach with some caution. The 2nd pitch roof problem is pretty neat and the 3rd pitch up on the red butress is KILLER. The 4th pitch up the corner & out the headwall is very sequency but on awesome jugs. It felt very 5.11 up there but I'm pretty sure that its just powerfull and EXCITING 5.10

You could do some fun & very moderate multi-pitch (CHEAT-SEEKER) if yo... more >>


Location: NM : Truth or Consequences Area : Caballo Lake : Bat Cave Area : Left of the Bat Cave
By: Rstrang When: Feb 21, 2012

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Comments: Thanks for the info Lee. My brother thought he might have climbed something on that wall as a warm-up when he was down there once last year with Timmy. The wall and right of the cave looked real good and I was hoping to get back down there this year with a drill(lifetime project?). I'll get a hold of Lance and see if he knows anymore


Location: NM : Truth or Consequences Area : Caballo Lake : Bat Cave Area : Left of the Bat Cave
By: Rstrang When: Jan 16, 2012

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Comments: So what's the status of the routes on the wall left of the Bat Cave. I saw at least 3 (up to the ledge)and one looked like it had a 2nd pitch (above the ledge). Still being worked? how hard? abandoned? The one past the big holes looks cool (had a bail biner on it)


Location: NM : Truth or Consequences Area : Caballo Lake : Bat Cave Area : Super Hero Wall (Grey Wall) : Dynamic Duo (5.10d)
By: Rstrang When: Jan 15, 2012

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Comments: Probably the best route I did (Mystique was very good too thought) Really nice route Lance


Location: NM : Truth or Consequences Area : Caballo Lake : Bat Cave Area : Super Hero Wall (Grey Wall) : Mystique (5.11a)
By: Rstrang When: Jan 15, 2012

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Comments: Great clean rock and fun moves with pretty consistent climbing - a must do route


Location: NM : Truth or Consequences Area : Caballo Lake : Bat Cave Area : Super Hero Wall (Grey Wall) : Super Hero (5.11)
By: Rstrang When: Jan 15, 2012

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Comments: With a 70m rope you can lower from the upper anchor TO THE GROUND with at least 30 feet extra (so a 60m might work also) Nice route!


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Winter Wall : Blind Faith (5.11a)
By: Rstrang When: Nov 28, 2011

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Comments: An interesting route. Seemed fairly clean to me, most of the climbing felt moderate 5.10. The straight up exit at the end is probably about 10+ but with some rope drag pulling on you with feet on slaby edges its probably a letter grade harder (11a). Don't try to clean this on rappel - probably much smarted to have a second follow it and clean (I wish I was smart). A Nice LONG, OVERHANGING, & Diagonal line with mostly very positive holds.


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Sun Devil Wall : Suntoucher (5.11b/c)
By: Rstrang When: Nov 21, 2011

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Comments: Awesome Location:
I liked this alot - we only did the 1st 3 picthes because I was scoping out a new line to the right that I want to start on this week. We cleaned up any loose stuff that was left on the 2nd & 3rd pitches(other people must have done some cleaning as well since it seemed pretty clean to me already)The death blocks are still up there on the 4th pitch and I aggree with Aaron that the 4th pitch would seem cleaner by continueing up the better rock straight above and right of... more >>


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Winter Wall : Xibalba (5.10d)
By: Rstrang When: Oct 15, 2011

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Comments: This was an exceptional route!!
It seems to have cleaned up pretty good. Not quite as clean as Grape Ape but at least as clean as Naked Lunch if not better(if more people get on this it could become another Grape Ape with time). Went over to Sun Devil after this and I liked this much better overal (not as long but better rock for the whole route and still somewhat airy)
I don't think any moves on the route seemed any harder than 10+ but it all just felt 5.11ish up the steep part for quite a ways... more >>


Location: NM : El Rito : El Rito Sport Area : Big Pine Wall : Apple Cobbler (5.10a)
By: Rstrang When: Sep 27, 2011

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Comments: Yeah just have fun climbing it the way you feel like. I bolted this one when I was one my arete climbing kick (Procrastination, Grid Lock & Apple Cobbler) They all have a certain "cheating" feel if you go around the corner - too bad it worked out that way but WTH


Location: NM : El Rito : El Rito Sport Area : Big Pine Wall : Peach Cobbler (5.11c)
By: Rstrang When: Sep 27, 2011

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Comments: Actually I'm wrong - I saw the hangers the other day. Lance did FA of this one and Pocket Rocket was FA by Ed Strang


Location: CO : Pagosa Springs : Piedra River : Piedra River - Lower West : Wild Hops (5.12)
By: Rstrang When: Sep 20, 2011

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Comments: This is such a cool & fun climb. Neat, thin, tecky moves through the crux and good endurance to finish the 5.11-5.1o climbing to the chains. I almost took a mega whipper trying to clip the anchors!!!!


Location: CO : Pagosa Springs : Piedra River : Piedra River - Lower West : Taster's Choice (5.9)
By: Rstrang When: Sep 12, 2011

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Comments: Yes just a TASTE of the CHOICE climbing on the Hops Wall. This & Nescafe, the "coffee climbs", are the best 5.9 climbs in the canyon right now. Don't miss them.


Location: CO : Pagosa Springs : Piedra River : Piedra River - East Side : Skewed Reality (5.12-)
By: Rstrang When: Aug 29, 2011

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Comments: That's Awesome, Alex. Sorry I couldn't make it up there to help finish it off with you. I guess I have another project. How does it compare in difficulty with Wild Hoops & Raising Awareness?


Location: CO : Pagosa Springs : Piedra River : Piedra River - Lower West : Cattle Drive (5.10+)
By: Rstrang When: Aug 8, 2011

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Comments: It was quite a spectacle to see a herd of cattle being driven up the canyon trail right underneath us as Alex and I were doing this route....

This route could feel more like 5.11 if you aren't feeling strong and are under 5' 9". The dihedral move is reachy, and there aren't intermediate holds. If you're getting pumped at the finish, it's pretty tough looking for the "hidden" foot hold as you try to clip the chains. Not quite as good as some of the newer routes we've done recently but still 3 1... more >>


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