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Location: UT : Moab Area : Lockhart Basin : Trisstin's Tower : regular route (5.7 A1) : Photo
By: rpc When: Nov 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: NICE!!
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Kane Springs Canyon : Happy Turk Hoodoo (aka The ... : The Happy Turk (5.8 C1) : Photo
By: rpc When: Jun 17, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: thanks Dan!
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Location: OR : Smith Rock : Monkey Face : Monkey Space (5.11b) : Photo
By: rpc When: May 11, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: what a great shot!
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Lockhart Basin : Amazon Tower : Amazon Tower - Original Rou... (5.11a A1+) : Photo
By: rpc When: Feb 24, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: that is some tower Brad - this is you last wknd's outing right? Damn!! very nice.
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Location: OR : Smith Rock : Morning Glory Wall : Zebra/ Zion (5.10b) : Photo
By: rpc When: Feb 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: a great shot of this pitch!
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Location: Bennett : Meteora, Greece. Corner of ... : Photo
By: rpc When: Feb 4, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: "while sizing up the chossy offwidth pitches "
did you finish it? got rained off from P1 last fall so never really saw the crack up close ("crack" on P1 was not promising...)
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Location: AZ : Cochise Stronghold : Sheepshead Area (Southwest) : The Sheepshead : Unknown (right of stampede) (5.10a)
By: rpc When: Jan 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I might have placed a #4 C4 but I think that was mostly because I wanted to unload it. I THINK you could get away with up to blue Camalot as the OW constricts in the back & I recall placing couple of nuts actually.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Kane Springs Canyon : The Cirque of the Climbable... : Photo
By: rpc When: Jan 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: right place, right time. Sweet shot Brad!
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Location: AZ : Cochise Stronghold : Sheepshead Area (Southwest) : The Sheepshead : Unknown (right of stampede) (5.10a)
By: rpc When: Jan 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great modern route! Pitch 2 is a real gem (slab, hand crack, chimney, finger crack, steep face!) but pitches 4 & 5 were also very cool we thought. Just to echo what others said, climbing felt hard for 5.9 (compared to Too Tough... which we did the day before & Absinthe IMHO). Thanks to Geir for another great topo.
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Location: AZ : Cochise Stronghold : Sheepshead Area (Southwest) : The Sheepshead : The Climb Too Tough To Die (5.10a PG13)
By: rpc When: Jan 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Very fun route, with the last 2 pitches being the funnest & I think pitch 2 being the crux. 3/4 stars at least (mostly due to the lower angle section on P3 & 4).
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Location: AZ : Cochise Stronghold : Sheepshead Area (Southwest) : The Muttonhead : Mystery of the Desert (5.9)
By: rpc When: Jan 7, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: nice route. so what's the deal with the bolted crack line that heads off right from the base of the wedge?
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Location: UT : Westwater Area : Mee Canyon : Arch Tower: Dry Heaves (5.10 A2- PG13) : Photo
By: rpc When: Dec 6, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: amazing looking tower! thanks for posting up.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Magic Mountain : Community Pillar (5.9) : Photo
By: rpc When: Dec 5, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: ..still have nightmares lingering 3 years later!
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Location: rpc : tmp : Photo
By: rpc When: Dec 5, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: we're getting help :)
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Tusher Canyon : Aeolian Tower : Etesian Hookup (5.9 A2 PG13) : Photo
By: rpc When: Oct 21, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Interesting perspective...the thinness of the thing!
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon : The Painted Wall : Journey Through Mirkwood (5.11b/c) : Photo
By: rpc When: Oct 14, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I second that Brad (how about that standing rock TR as well eh?).
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Location: AZ : Cochise Stronghold : Rockfellow Group : End Pinnacle : Endgame (5.10a) : Photo
By: rpc When: Jul 23, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks Brad!
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Location: ID : City of Rocks : Parking Lot Rock : Batwings (5.8+)
By: rpc When: Jun 23, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fixed tricam was no longer there. I don't think you can easily clip the top bolt on the Direct easily from this one - my wife led it and the bolt was waaaay out of reach (below & right). I'd guess this would be pretty exciting if .8's your limit. Great route!
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Location: OR : Steins Pillar : NE Face (5.8 C2)
By: rpc When: Jun 19, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Eric, thanks for the info. on the SW face. Sounds like the protection was reasonable? Looks like a great line!
BTW, here's what the old guidebooks say about the history of the SW a.k.a. W Face route: First ascent of this route made by J. Nieland, E. Dod in October 1967. First free ascent made by B. McGown and J. Thomas in July 1977.
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Location: AZ : Sedona : Coffeepot Rock Area : Summit Block Rock : Dr. Rubo's Wild Ride (5.9)
By: rpc When: Jun 18, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: "Interesting, I don't recall the rap being a problem. "
Yeah, I agree. I don't recall the rap being an issue? One shot with 2 ropes & you're on the ground (my photo above).
Is it because folks don't like to carry a 2nd rope?
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Location: OR : Steins Pillar : NE Face (5.8 C2)
By: rpc When: Jun 18, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: One of Don's lag bolts from his FA of the tower is in the upper right hand corner below (the other stuff is also from the route as it was in '04):
I think "cleaning up" the NE Face route would take away from its character. Seemed as though there were enough new/good bolts already to make it pretty stress free as it is.
E.R., if you liked Steins, you should check out the Turkey Monster...as well as some other Oregon towers:
http://www... more >>
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Arches : Argon Tower : West Face (5.11) : Photo
By: rpc When: Jun 16, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: For me, manteling from these belay bolts onto the next bolt was the crux of this route!
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Location: WA : Tieton River : The Bend : Bend West : Salmon Song (5.10a)
By: rpc When: Jun 5, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: A great route! Slabby start, easier-than-it-looks roof, fun thin hands crack that is just off-vertical enough not to be too pumpy. Tiers on the right was equally good IMHO.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Overhanging Hangover (5.10a) : Photo
By: rpc When: May 28, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: What a shot!!!
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Arches : Tower of Babel : Zenyatta Entrada (5.4 C3)
By: rpc When: Apr 21, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: My wife & I did this line this past weekend (very windy). A GREAT outing! Many thanks to Sam for the huge amount of work in fixing this line up! Also, Tyson A.'s topo was great - thanks. For what it's worth, what took me the most time to figure out was a move 10 feet below the intermediate belay on P3 (maybe a mid-sized tricam would've eased my stress there?).
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