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black Orpheus


Member Since: Jun 11, 2010
Last Visit: 4 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 3,067
Total Points: 172
Last Year: 64
Last 30 Days: 1
10 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Royal been climbing?










Contributions


All 312 | Routes 1 | Areas 1 | Photos 27 | Page Improvements | Comments 12 | Posts 104 | Stars 103 | Ratings 64

Contributed Comments

 

Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Mescalito : Dark Shadows (5.8)
By: Royal When: Apr 3, 2015

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Comments: I received this descent beta from a friend of a friend. It's good. As far as I know it's the safest non technical means of descent off mescalito. I'd think twice about attempting it in the dark. It worked for me.

From whatever route you've topped out, head up to the true summit. From here, continue west along the ridge into a slight saddle (generally cairned). Somewhere in the vicinity of this saddle is a very obvious cairned descent gully. If you head down here it's somewhat moderate downclim... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : The Friar and Byrd Pinnacle : The Friar (5.9)
By: Royal When: Jan 16, 2015

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Comments: I was able to rap the route with a 60 meter with no problems. The first pitch is quite good and on the third pitch there are two moves of amazing hand crack, other than that, it's nothing special till the summit block which is the real deal. I'll admit the summit block scared me but it was really, really good climbing - totally classic. Improbable, athletic, dangerous. A budding 5.9 leader would be asking to get hurt / die if the jumped on it IMHO. The route shouldn't change though, it's suppose... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Stick Gully : Stick Left (5.10c)
By: Royal When: Dec 12, 2014

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Comments: We were able to rap off with a single 60 meter trango rope. Fantastic route!


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Jackrabbit Buttress : Geronimo (5.6)
By: Royal When: May 23, 2014

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Comments: Oh wow. The holds are HUGE on this route. Jugfest anyone? It might be more like 5.5 with small bits of 5.6 than anything else. Fantastic fun.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Cloud Tower : Test Tube (5.9)
By: Royal When: Mar 10, 2014

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Comments: I had a difficult time on the hand crack on pitch one. It was difficult for me to get my hands far enough back into the crack to effectively jam due to my shoulders getting in the way / my arms not being long enough.


Location: International : Europe : Italy : Bergell : Photo
By: Royal When: Jan 1, 2014

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Comments: Great shot! What route is this?


Location: CA : Sequoia & Kings Canyon NP : The Gorge of Despair
By: Royal When: Nov 22, 2013

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Comments: I've backpacked out to the Gorge to attempt a descent into Tehipite valley - at which we failed, but the formations and the climbing looks amazing. I'd love to go back. Someone needs to climb out here with me!


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Mescalito : Dark Shadows (5.8)
By: Royal When: Jun 29, 2013

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Comments: The upper pitches are most definitely not in the shade in late June. I just climbed the complete route two days ago and we got cooked. Plus, the descent is kinda a pain in the dark especially when you have a slow and scared partner.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Whiskey Peak : Wholesome Fullback (5.10a)
By: Royal When: Jun 7, 2013

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Comments: This thing is so not 10a! I call major sandbag. the crux is short, but it's a hard SOB. I can climb 10a and I was nowhere near sending the crux. It's at least 10c/d. The first pitch seems like honest to god 10a. I liked the first pitch best.


Location: alix morris : Text : Photo
By: Royal When: Dec 12, 2012

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Comments: great photo! gonna have to climb that one.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : CO Hwy 7 & Tributaries : Jurassic Park - Lily Lake : The Fin : Edge of Time (5.9)
By: Royal When: Oct 5, 2010

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Comments: Amazing climb. Totally worth doing. The view and exposure up top is impeccable. Climbing this thing made my day.


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : Greyrock : Southeast Face : Theodore (5.6)
By: Royal When: Aug 24, 2010

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Comments: The P1 crack was tons of fun, but once that ended I felt like unroping and hiking to the top. Didn't lend itself to a sustained 'multi-pitch' feel. Still that crack was great.


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