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Location: CA : Sierra Foothills North : Auburn Cliffs : Scale Wall : Unknown 5.10b (5.10b R) : Photo
By: Rough When: 2 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: Given that he is going left at the "X" would suggest he is on Scooby Snacks. The first bolt of the 10c is a few few farther right from where the climber is. Given the "dirty higher" comment on the photo I would be pretty confident it is Scooby.
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Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : The Fortress : Right Side Gully : Photo
By: Rough When: Jun 3, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great shot, though makes you wonder what is holding that block to the wall!
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Location: CA : High Desert : New Jack City : Box Canyon East : Raven Rocks : ... : Babes-A-Boodle aka RepoMan (5.10+)
By: Rough When: May 28, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: If that is in reference to another route, it isn't mine, or if it is meaning it has been called additional names, who knows. Babes was enough of a negative experience to cure me of bothering with additional routes at NJC. No point in squabbling over NJC when there was a ton of other rock to develop locally hence the birth of Lucerne.
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Location: CA : Sierra Foothills North : Auburn Cliffs
By: Rough When: May 26, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hey Brennen, If you don;t mind grabbing them, please do! I'll PM you to hook up and get them from you at some time. This way that hardware will be used to support more routes at Auburn!
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Location: CA : Sierra Foothills North : Auburn Cliffs
By: Rough When: May 25, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Brennen,
Yeah those would either be the old anchors to Blasting Chamber 5.12d, Bonk 5.13, or Well Deserved 5.10b. Those routes used to be full sport pitches till they bulldozed the earth in. I should probably go in there to at least get my hardware back now that the lines are ruined :(
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Location: CA : SF Bay Area : Mount St. Helena : Table Scraps Pinnacle : Wine Style (5.11b)
By: Rough When: May 13, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Bernard: I can guarantee it didn't snap out on someone. Those were 1/2" x 4.75" Rawl 5 Pieces and you can unscrew them leaving the hole. Someone PM'd me the other day saying that it looked like they did the same thing to Table Scraps. 1st bolt only etc.. Your recommendation of stick clipping the 2nd (now first) is exactly why those two "1st bolts" were there. So it wouldn't necessitate a stick clip. Given the cruxes, and generally crappier rock, coming right off the ground at Scraps, the ... more >>
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Location: CA : Sierra Foothills North : Auburn Cliffs : Horseshoe Canyon : Human Oddity (5.12a)
By: Rough When: May 11, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Caliza, sounds good. It will be interesting to watch the consensus develop on this as more people climb it.
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Location: CA : Sierra Foothills North : Auburn Cliffs : Memorial Wall : On Demand (5.11c)
By: Rough When: May 6, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hey Ben,
Next time I will hacksaw them off. I didn't bring one the day I rebolted it, but will next time.
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Location: CA : Sierra Foothills North : Auburn Cliffs : Horseshoe Canyon : Human Oddity (5.12a)
By: Rough When: Apr 29, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great points Dave and ones that are most likely attributing to some of the feeling in differences. Everything is a little more pumpy when they rock quality is in question. I know you know :)
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Location: CA : Sierra Foothills North : Auburn Cliffs : Horseshoe Canyon : Human Oddity (5.12a)
By: Rough When: Apr 29, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: No worries Brennen. I didn't necessarily see any of the comments as spray. Just wanted to suggest using the designed feature to help understand consensus for the grade. For me to change the grade here and in the guide is a matter of seconds, but I will only do that after a consensus is reached. As of now there are four ratings: 12a x 3, 11c x 1. Doesn't seem enough to warrant changing anything as of yet.
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Location: CA : Sierra Foothills North : Auburn Cliffs : Horseshoe Canyon : Human Oddity (5.12a)
By: Rough When: Apr 29, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I will say what I have told several other people: When you go to Human Oddity, look slightly under the title of the route, it is says "You & This Route". Right below that is "Your Rating" and a blue text that says "change". I would recommend selecting the grade you feel is most appropriate and then feeling warm and special for being part of the process of determining a consensus. Please do this only after you onsight/redpoint it.
Climbing is subjective, simply put. My strengths are differe... more >>
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Location: CA : Sierra Foothills North : Auburn Cliffs : Memorial Wall : Kirk Arens Arête (5.9)
By: Rough When: Apr 27, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: FA is Aaron Rough and Steve... Sorry I don't remember his last name!
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Location: CA : San Bernardino Mountains : Frustration Creek : Lower Tier : Eco Challenge (5.11a)
By: Rough When: Apr 27, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks for the reply Sam, it is what should have been done proactively before any action was taken. The loose blocks everywhere exaggeration is exactly that. Eco Challenge has been probably climbed 2-3 hundred times by now and everyone before dealt with the nature of the route which is both reflected in the name as well as made clear in the route description.
I am totally open to other's thoughts on my routes, but you are wrong with regards to communication. You do need to cont... more >>
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Location: CA : Sierra Foothills North : Auburn Cliffs : Memorial Wall : On Demand (5.11c)
By: Rough When: Apr 27, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I re-equipped this route on 04/27/13 and included new mussy hook anchors. Enjoy!
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Location: CA : Sierra Foothills North : Auburn Cliffs : Memorial Wall : Quirky (5.9)
By: Rough When: Apr 27, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I re-equipped this route on of 04/27/13 and it now has a set of mussy hook anchors. Also, Mike if you read this can you change the name from Unknown to "Quirky". Thanks!
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Location: CA : Sierra Foothills North : Auburn Cliffs : Memorial Wall : Kirk Arens Arête (5.9)
By: Rough When: Apr 27, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route is re-equipped thanks to Brian P. I also added mussy hook anchors above this and Quirky on 04/27/13.
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Location: CA : Sierra Foothills North : Auburn Cliffs : Memorial Wall
By: Rough When: Apr 27, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: As of today, 04/27/13, all routes have been re-equipped and have new anchors.
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Location: CA : San Bernardino Mountains : Frustration Creek : Lower Tier : Eco Challenge (5.11a)
By: Rough When: Apr 27, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Sam: If "death blocks" were on the route as you say, then how did they get there? Perhaps from careless behavior above? I can assure, they were not there after the FA. How do I know? Because it is my route and I spent more than a "few hours" cleaning it. Read the previous comments.
I am all for locals maintaining local areas, ironically enough I am going to do some crag maintenance myself tomorrow at Auburn, but common courtesy is still an expectation. I am on the site and frequ... more >>
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Location: CA : Sierra Foothills North : Auburn Cliffs : Memorial Wall : On Demand (5.11c)
By: Rough When: Apr 24, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yeah, I would strongly suggest not trying to lead it in it's current state. It is called On Demand because it has some crytpic and "slick" beta. I used to get people telling me all the time, no way that thing is 11a. I would float it and say, "There ya go On Demand. :)"
I hate the fact that I can't get out there and do more work. I have seriously screwed my knee up and most likely will need more surgeries, but I really need to get out there and "fix" up the Memorial Wall.
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Location: CA : San Bernardino Mountains : Frustration Creek : Lower Tier : Eco Challenge (5.11a)
By: Rough When: Apr 16, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: What's going with the route Matt? Being that it is my route, I'd appreciate a PM or email.
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Location: CA : SF Bay Area : The Nut Tree Boulders : Hillcrest Boulders : Metal Mania Boulder
By: Rough When: Apr 9, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: You're spot on Chad. Mind linking the topo URL in the main Nut Tree Area Description? This will help others line up problems and avoid adding existing problems as unknowns.
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Location: CA : SF Bay Area : Mount St. Helena : Table Scraps Pinnacle : Aperitif (5.10a)
By: Rough When: Mar 27, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: If you avoid the direct start, straight up from under the first bolt, you simply are not doing the route. You are cheating out of the crux and either doing the start of Table Scraps (left) or Food Baby (right). I have watched several people do this, and that's cool, but then don't comment it is easier than 10a if you purposefully avoid the crux,lol :-)
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Location: CA : SF Bay Area : Mount St. Helena : Table Scraps Pinnacle : Table Scraps (5.8)
By: Rough When: Mar 11, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: That really sucks and is head shaking. I'll bring the drill and a replacement and epoxy for the rest of the bolts next time out there :(
The first bolt was placed where it was for two reasons:
#1- The rock in the first few moves is very chossy, a fall there is highly possible due to the rock and the landing is not good.
#2- The start is the crux and not everyone brings a stick clip with them.
Why can't people just leave others work alone? I pray I run into the tard who thinks p... more >>
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Location: CA : SF Bay Area : The Nut Tree Boulders
By: Rough When: Mar 9, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Topo for Nut Tree Circa 2000
Just to set some of the record straight of who did what. If its in the guide, its more than 90% chance FA Aaron Rough
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Location: CA : Riverside/Orange Counties : Riverside County : Dry Falls : La Vena Negra (5.10+)
By: Rough When: Mar 1, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: This and History Repeats Itself are both awesome routes and well worth checking this place out.
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