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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Glacier Gorge : Stoneman (WI5 PG13)
By: Ross When: 6 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: Did the climb 20091121. Partner hit a water ice dam on the easy ice above the climb as we were moving to the walk off. Heard the crash and thunder, I looked up and saw a sheet of water and ice coming right for me, glad we kept the belay in for this easy section.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : The Saber : The Pocketknife (5.11a R) : Photo
By: Ross When: Aug 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I may have taken this pic.
Ha!
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Location: VA : Old Rag : Wall That Dreams Are Made O... : Bushwhack Crack (5.10c)
By: Ross When: Jul 25, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: It was Alex Badart that told me Cal Swoager, or Mike Artz did a onsight solo (1980's).
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Location: VA : Old Rag : Middle God's Area-Left : Oh My God Dihedral (5.10c)
By: Ross When: Jul 25, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: In the 80's the name was "Oh My God Corner"
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Sundance Buttress : Sidetrack (5.9)
By: Ross When: Jul 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Did the clean straight up small crack section on P5 below the slot, got in 3 small nuts, even so the last move was pretty scary, hardest move of whole route. Combining 1,2,3 w/70m just makes it to a ledge.
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Sundance Buttress : Betwixt'em (5.9)
By: Ross When: Jul 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: For P1 we stayed to the left of the pillar, aim for then go up a short, clean, left-facing corner, continue up angling right until underneath ledge and big bush. At ledge, traverse left until under the nice crack you see from the ground. Top of corner and big bush is seen in the routes photo.
About 100 higher the crack splits, we went left until it ended, then began a harrowing traverse 20' left to middle Sidetrack's wide crack pitch. Couple of RP placements.
If you can do the traverse lower t... more >>
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Location: CO : John Bachar Passes Away
By: Ross When: Jul 17, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hi,
One of the first images I remember as I was becoming a climbing addict, was JB on New Dimensions, what an inspiration.
It was good to read all memorial posts on Super Topo, and some of the posts here. With so much on the line it truly is a mystery why we occasionally risk everything, alone, out there, again and again.
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Sundance Buttress : Slim Pickens (5.10)
By: Ross When: Jul 12, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: We decided to go up the wide crack section and were rewarded with a great 70m 1st pitch. This 1st pitch is better than Progression.
After the "Slim Pickens" CH you can find a good belay on a nice horn the size of a small saddle, just before the short traverse left.
This is a great sustained route, it felt like maybe 10a.
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Sundance Buttress : Slim Pickens (5.10) : Photo
By: Ross When: Jul 12, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Come-on because there are good feet, this straightforward short section is like 9+.
Getting good gear and pulling the small bulges for the 100+ feet of climbing above this corner is tricky.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Camp 4 Bouldering : Photo
By: Ross When: Jan 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Good thing OW there would be a hotel or parking lot instead.
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Long's Peak/Mt. Meeker Cirq... : Martha (5.6 WI2+ M2-3) : Photo
By: Ross When: Sep 24, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The West descent is good and fast.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : The Diamond : The Obelisk (5.11a)
By: Ross When: Sep 12, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks Brian for the tip, one each #4.5 and #5 worked out great, especially at the top.
I've lead a few ow and I enjoy them as much as the next ow climbing guy, but maybe because I'm tall and skinny or just a whimp but even with a knee pad I just couldn't put my knee in that thing and rest my weight on it, nope, no way.
So using laybacks, stems, gaston, crack climbing the small crack on the left, the climbing is not easy. Three falls and a lot of hanging.
Spanked, but I wouldn't t... more >>
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Glacier Gorge : Spearhead : Obviously Four Believers (5.11a)
By: Ross When: Jun 30, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: As of 29JUN08 there are now only 2 pins on P5, no big deal really.
P6 unprotected face climb is gripping.
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Location: CO : Caņon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Third Stage (5.10b/c) : Photo
By: Ross When: May 30, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice shot Ralph.
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Glacier Gorge : Big Mac Couloir (WI4- M4-)
By: Ross When: May 26, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Around 2005 time frame we encounter the upper part of the 4th pitch as a detached wall of ice debris, very scary.
If the second pitch has no ice then crossing the large snow band is 80-90m with no rock pro.
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Glacier Gorge : The Hourglass Couloir (M4 Mod. Snow)
By: Ross When: May 26, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: 25MAY08 The 4th pitch, ice pitch, had ice all the way, exiting at the top without a traverse. Passing the chock stones on this climb are a lot of fun. Glad I didn't have a pack on for the 3rd pitch odd double chock stone, I still can't believe I actually put a sling on it, doh!
There is adequate pro but just enough, a deadman came in handy passing the one cornice we encountered. Our rack was a set of Camalots 3 to 0.5, wires, two Aliens, 2 screws, and a deadman. A yellow Camalot came in handy f... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : ... : Photo
By: Ross When: Jan 10, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Who was it that fell with the rope in his teeth and forgot to spit, thus taking the fall and having his two front teeth pulled out? Somebody at Seneca maybe.
--Ross
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : The Pages Wall Area : Outlander (5.10c)
By: Ross When: Aug 27, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: P1: I'm tall so the 10b didn't feel as hard as say Fat City.
P2: I stuffed the 3.5 at the pod, did a lay back into the upper section and went to the top w/o other gear. This was not my plan but once I got into the layback I was hesitant to pull in to look for placements, I hadn't paired down the rack, doh! Anyway I'm wondering now if I could have decked if I came off at the top? Thankfully the climbing was straightforward.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : The Diamond : Ariana (5.12a)
By: Ross When: Aug 13, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: How does this finger crack compare to say Twin Owls Finger Crack?
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : The Monastery : The Vestibule : Stolen Land (5.11c)
By: Ross When: Jul 23, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Classic 11 move at the 1st bolt, once you figure it out.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Scarface : Mantel Illness (5.10+) : Photo
By: Ross When: Feb 9, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: There is a climb in Virgina at Great Falls called Mantel Piece at 10+, at only 40 or 50 feet but with just about each move beginning or ending another mantel, a must do for the TMC True Mantel Connoisseur.
--Ross
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Flatirons : Mous-Ka-Tears (WI4- PG13)
By: Ross When: Jan 22, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Sorry about this, but I tried to add these key comments to the above text but could not:
Notes from JRoberts:
Mous-Ka-Tears. WI5-, M4. This is the ice climb that forms on the backside of Mickey Mouse Wall above Tunnel #6. Bring six medium length screws, two Stubbies and some small-medium cams. Rappel on trees to the right of the climb. Approach is via Rattlesnake Trail to RR tracks.
Notes from DougS:
Did Mous-Ka-Tears today (WI4+?). I would recommend one longer screw (19 cm?) in addition... more >>
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Glacier Gorge : All Mixed Up (WI4 R)
By: Ross When: Dec 18, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: - ** A 70m rope worked really well. ***
Added a fixed pin on rock wall above last pitch.
--Ross
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Location: Jimn Seiler : sunsarvidjk : Photo
By: Ross When: Dec 15, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Sweet!
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Long's Peak/Mt. Meeker Cirq... : Martha (5.6 WI2+ M2-3)
By: Ross When: Dec 12, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: You can up load your GPS data to view on Google Earth:
http://www.wikiloc.com/wikiloc/spatialArtifacts.do?event=sho>>>>>
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