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Member Since: Jul 3, 2001
Last Visit: 1 day ago
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Point Rank: # 439
Total Points: 1,448
Last Year: 151
Last 30 Days: 32
69 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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All 813 | Routes 59 | Areas 14 | Photos 106 | Page Improvements | Comments 118 | Posts 89 | Stars 352 | Ratings 75
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : The Fin : Tiberone (5.10c)
By: Ross When: 2 days ago

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Comments: After the stem beginning, keeping your feet in the crack is the way to go.


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : The Fin : Hammerhead (5.9)
By: Ross When: 2 days ago

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Comments: Solid 5.9 Having 2 #3 camolot's would have been nice, but the upper middle section does have a couple of hidden cracks for small aliens or the like.


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : The Acrophile : Black Powder (5.9+)
By: Ross When: Dec 28, 2014

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Comments: At the roof lip, we didn't see how it would be possible to place gear on right as described here and also in Gillett's guidebook, that crack is not even close by.

You do not want to leave any gear at the lip the roof! Your rope can get caught with the gear and be very difficult to pull. Better would be to place pro at lip, make the lip move, place more pro higher in crack then reach back down to remove the pro at the lip.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : The Diamond : ... : Photo
By: Ross When: Dec 10, 2014

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Comments: Lucky!
Every time I've hit that traverse it's been wet.


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : The Acrophile : ... : Photo
By: Ross When: Dec 9, 2014

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Comments: There is a key tiny foot hold at climber's waist that is easy to miss.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Sundance Buttress : Hemp Necktie (5.11a)
By: Ross When: Jun 3, 2014

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Comments: To find this route, walk past Mainliner & the big, left-facing Eumenides corner system.
About halfway up the face between a large roof system on your left and the Eumenides, left-facing corner system, you will see a smooth, bulging face with a crack tending left then back right. This crack is your destination.

At the crux, I was able to step left onto knobs that will allow you to tackle the crack as a one move, right-facing layback.

About 30' above the crux, there is a horn to sit on for your... more >>


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : North Fork of the St. Vrain... : Button Rock (aka Pinewood R...
By: Ross When: Apr 20, 2014

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Comments: It's best when the the map rules.
Maybe a better name would be "The Real Button Rock" or "PWS Button Rock".
Adding even more confusion is the mountain south of Button Rock called "Button Rock Mtn."


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... : Disappearing Act (aka Krypt... (5.11a)
By: Ross When: Mar 26, 2014

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Comments: Aka Kryptonite from S. Levin guide, the stuff that kills Superman. Another classic pumper.


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : December Wall : Ranklands of Perfidy (5.9)
By: Ross When: Mar 24, 2014

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Comments: Although a little dirt is at the bottom moves, this route is actually very good, with just the right amount thrill and protection except at the top of the first pitch. Not too easy not too hard.

The crack at the run-out top could use a little cleaning for a RP back-up. I was able to get in a 0 or 00 small cam. I agree the lower bolt placement is rather odd, but I was happy to clip the upper bolt.


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Observatory Rock : Mineral Secretion (5.10c)
By: Ross When: Mar 21, 2014

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Comments: One can start 20' lower in a licken corner for additional moves that lead to the crack on the left of the alcove. The crux comes at the horizontal where there is a hidden sidepull. A #4 Camalot was useful at the top to protect the move around the roof. I had to take my helmet off to do the move.

The guidebook shows a pic for this climbing area and a dotted line for this route that is on the right side of the alcove; however, in the topo, the line for this route is on the left s... more >>


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : North Fork of the St. Vrain... : Big Elk Meadows - Boulders
By: Ross When: Jan 20, 2014

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Comments: The Flood on 12 Sep 2013 wiped out the approach trail. It may be better to continue on Rt47 for additional 0.3 miles then hike in 0.2 miles over the long ridge.
Pre-Flood trail.
Pre-Flood trail.



Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Bookmark : Backflip (5.8)
By: Ross When: Dec 1, 2013

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Comments: Variation after P1:
P2. From the ledge, proceed up the broken crack and flakes closest to the 2 bolt station. At small roof, traverse right 15' to crack below bush, climb crack and face to stance, 5.9-.
P3. Trusting instinct, traverse up & right with no pro on easy face until reaching finger crack with good pro, up this to a hand traverse right and scary mantle. Continue up cracks until its possible to traverse right to easier ground, 5.9-.
P4. Continue up large cracks tending left and up arete ... more >>


Location: martinharris : rocks of fun : Photo
By: Ross When: Feb 22, 2013

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Comments: Are those trees growing sideways, or is this picture rotation deprived.


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Midnight Rock : Midnight Cowboy (5.12a/b)
By: Ross When: Jan 28, 2013

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Comments: Getting to the 12 section I was able to easily go around by mantling the big, horizontal crack, then joining the route before going around the corner to the 11d headwall which I passed and finished on the 10 next door. We later TR'ed this route, the upper 11d was too hard for me, but the 12 section wasn't too bad after unlocking the jog right via the topo.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Long's Peak/Mt. Meeker Cirq... : Field's Chimney (WI5 M6+)
By: Ross When: Oct 12, 2012

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Comments: Two icons Jack Roberts & Mike Bearzi, did they do other routes together?


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Long's Peak/Mt. Meeker Cirq... : Field's Chimney (WI5 M6+) : Photo
By: Ross When: Oct 12, 2012

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Comments: Yeah, it looks it.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Long's Peak/Mt. Meeker Cirq... : The Flying Dutchman (5.4 WI2-3) : Photo
By: Ross When: Oct 12, 2012

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Comments: What a great shot!


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : Middle Fork of St. Vrain Ca... : Piz Cengalo : Forget the Bolts (5.10)
By: Ross When: Sep 25, 2012

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Comments: Hi George,
Not 6'3" just a skinny 6'.


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : North Fork of the St. Vrain... : Big Elk Meadows - Boulders : ... : Photo
By: Ross When: Sep 23, 2012

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Comments: 3 pilots died fighting the Big Elk fire on Kenny Mtn.
July 17-23, 2002.


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Rapids Rock : The Enthusiast aka Guided b... (5.9+)
By: Ross When: Sep 23, 2012

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Comments: As an variation you can go left at the second OH, I removed the loose boulder.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : CO Hwy 7 & Tributaries : Deville Rocks : Deville 3 : Kornerstone Edge (5.7+ PG13)
By: Ross When: Sep 5, 2012

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Comments: Yeah, what a ride it was on the second pitch, long runouts, wild undercling traverse (where you don't want to stop and place pro) with a fixed pin above, after a step back left, one diffcult move after that and only then does it back off to 5.7.

We used a 70, everything was 2 pitches. I'd say the lower section of P2 (or book P3) was at least 5.8.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Long's Peak/Mt. Meeker Cirq... : Alexander's Chimney (WI4 M4) : Photo
By: Ross When: Sep 5, 2012

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Comments: Climber leading, it
seems like it would have been better to stay on the ice then traverse.
Now they have a difficult move up and in a fall would hit the ledge then over the edge before the piece would stop them. Ouch.
Kurt, I've done both, it depends on conditions.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : CO Hwy 7 & Tributaries : Deville Rocks : Deville 3 : ... : Photo
By: Ross When: Aug 31, 2012

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Comments: Cool.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Combat Rock : Lizzard Warrior (5.10d)
By: Ross When: Aug 26, 2012

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Comments: I didn't find a lot of "back and forth" but nice holds on clean rock.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Cathedral Wall : Kor Route (5.9 R)
By: Ross When: Aug 8, 2012

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Comments: Scarier than "Birds of Fire".


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