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Almost Heaven nothing... this IS Heaven.  Climbing...

Member Since: Apr 28, 2008
Last Visit: 3 days ago
Contact Ronin

Point Rank: # 1,583
Total Points: 405
Last Year: 15
Last 30 Days: 13
7 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1

Where has Ronin been climbing?

Mountain Project has launched a new site: Powder Project, and we're giving away loads of gear, including skis & Oakley goggles. Check it out!
Personal: Lives in Smoke Hole Canyon, 51 years old, Male
Favorite Climbs: Gypsies, River Song, Shattered Illusions, Good Enough To Steal aka Beautiful Loser, Illusion Dweller, White Punks on Dope, Resolution, Bakefest in America, Slappin' Stinky, Bridgeburners, Green Wall, Team Machine, New River Yosemite, Central Pillar of Fre
Other Interests: writing, non-technical photography, cooking, trail building, reading
Personal/Favorite web site: http://www.roninsroad.blogspot.com
Likes to climb: Trad, Sport, TR, Gym climbs
Trad:  Leads 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a  Follows 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sport:  Leads 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a  Follows 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Boulders:   V5 6C  
Aid:  Leads C2  Follows C1
More information:
How many generations of noobs do you try to teach and mentor, before throwing in the towel because, while you have been doing your very best, all the advocacy groups and 99% of experienced climbers wouldn't dare risk membership dues or cool points by ever confronting someone or speaking out about something wrong at the crag or among climbers?

(Note that posting about it online, even with pics, is NOT confronting the situation... it is soundbytes.)

How do you just keep on keeping on when those advocacy groups routinely support programs that create more impact by creating hundreds of new climbers every year, and, in some cases, teaching them to drill, while pretending that Jeep is actually a tool for conservation and a necessary part of trail work?

When your local affiliate is all about working within an hour of the beltway, but not doing anything at the sport crag they all trash, mainly because it is three hours from a Starbucks, way down in the hills of WV?

When the local guides have cost access to more private land than they have opened, mainly because they couldn't be bothered to find out if it was private or respect that if they knew?

When the local climbers have so little community that the climbing shop, open for decades and located just off of a major interstate, near a university, closed without warning, right after the holidays?

Climbing for 36 years and counting; 153 first ascents, sport and trad, ground-up, rap, whatever...

If I haven't offended you yet, please be patient... I'm working as fast as I can.

Now stop mouth-breathing and go back to your Big Up DVD of three guys trying the same bouldering move for two hours while screaming at each other and pretending this is "soul climbing".

Photo Albums by Ronin    
Out There
RECENT TICKS - Show on map<< VIEW ALL 11
Illegal Dihedral 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
  Jan 6 - Killer! Climbed this when it was brand new but hung at the crux. Nice to get it clean!
South Side Classic 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
  Sep 2
Cussin' Crack 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
  Aug 5
Early Retirement 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
  Apr 11 - Not as bad as the sally who put it on MP makes it sound.... just requires some sackage.
Recent Site Contributions View all 118 Contributions
Solstice Crack 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
High Tension 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Alto Voltaje 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Strange Medicine 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Straight Up 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Mister Farnsworth, on the job  Mike Gray, putting in bolts, from the anchor he installed for the first ascent, LONG before the shorthorn cowboys who snaked this route claim to have made the FA  A picture is worth a thousand words.  A quick sketch of the approach trail and most of the lines on the true Stormwatch, the north-facing wall where I spent so many days on hooks and rappel, so many nights bivvied under the desert stars; freezing, baking in the heat, sitting out monsoon rains in my van... and loving every minute of it.   <br /> <br />The hourglass yellow lines on the left end are the Exit Ladders, easy 5.6 or 5.7 trad/mixed lines that put you on top and set up a nice TR or two as well. <br /> <br />The yellow line wandering off left is the 5th class bouldering exit up the dihedral/chimney and through the formations to the top. <br /> <br />The lines on the lower wall are all trad and fairly moderate, if usually filthy after long neglect.  You can rap in and clean from anchors on the ledge above. <br /> <br />Illegal Dihedral and the climbs next to it can just be seen at the far right end of the photo.  The route Stormwatch is tucked out of sight between.  Working on the line Gypsy Conditions, down inside the Troll Hut. 
Barnacle Bill 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Anchors Away 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Slush 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gavin's Groove 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Strange Medicine 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Barnacle Bill 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c  Suggests: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sea of Holes 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R  Suggests: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Spring Break 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b  Suggests: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Aqualung 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a  Suggests: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Stormwatch 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a  Suggests: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
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