Personal: Lives in Smoke Hole Canyon, 51 years old, Male
Favorite Climbs: Gypsies, River Song, Shattered Illusions, Good Enough To Steal aka Beautiful Loser, Illusion Dweller, White Punks on Dope, Resolution, Bakefest in America, Slappin' Stinky, Bridgeburners, Green Wall, Team Machine, New River Yosemite, Central Pillar of Fre
Other Interests: writing, non-technical photography, cooking, trail building, reading
Likes to climb: Trad, Sport, TR, Gym climbs
|Trad: ||Leads 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a ||Follows 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Sport: ||Leads 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a ||Follows 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Boulders: || V5 6C |
|Aid: ||Leads C2 ||Follows C1|
How many generations of noobs do you try to teach and mentor, before throwing in the towel because, while you have been doing your very best, all the advocacy groups and 99% of experienced climbers wouldn't dare risk membership dues or cool points by ever confronting someone or speaking out about something wrong at the crag or among climbers?
(Note that posting about it online, even with pics, is NOT confronting the situation... it is soundbytes.)
How do you just keep on keeping on when those advocacy groups routinely support programs that create more impact by creating hundreds of new climbers every year, and, in some cases, teaching them to drill, while pretending that Jeep is actually a tool for conservation and a necessary part of trail work?
When your local affiliate is all about working within an hour of the beltway, but not doing anything at the sport crag they all trash, mainly because it is three hours from a Starbucks, way down in the hills of WV?
When the local guides have cost access to more private land than they have opened, mainly because they couldn't be bothered to find out if it was private or respect that if they knew?
When the local climbers have so little community that the climbing shop, open for decades and located just off of a major interstate, near a university, closed without warning, right after the holidays?
Climbing for 36 years and counting; 153 first ascents, sport and trad, ground-up, rap, whatever...
If I haven't offended you yet, please be patient... I'm working as fast as I can.
Now stop mouth-breathing and go back to your Big Up DVD of three guys trying the same bouldering move for two hours while screaming at each other and pretending this is "soul climbing".