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Location: VT : Smugglers Notch : Boulders Behind the Main Pa... : General Patton's Arete (V1 PG13)
By: rogerk When: Aug 13, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Bill,
IIRC, Troob got the first ascent, and named it in your honor because you showed it to him.
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Location: VT : Killington - route 100 Nort...
By: rogerk When: Jul 5, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: More new rock. Great news. Looking forward to seeing it.
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Location: VT : DEKD boulders in Killington : Dirty Crack Boulder : Scabbers (V2+)
By: rogerk When: Jul 3, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Can you post a picture with this problem? The holds you mention are very specific. I did something on this face last year, but would like to try this new variation.
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Location: VT : Smugglers Notch
By: rogerk When: Jun 25, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Is there a way to organize this area by boulder?
I'd like to add some of the lines & variations that didn't make it into Kemple's guide. but organization by boulder would make it much easier to find the lines.
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Location: VT : DEKD boulders in Killington : Dr. Evil's Lair : Mini Me Boulder : Evil jr (V1)
By: rogerk When: Nov 6, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Harder than it looks, if you've a big butt.
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Location: VT : DEKD boulders in Killington : Dr. Evil's Lair : Bird's Nest Boulder : Bird Brain (V2)
By: rogerk When: Nov 6, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: The natural line on this is more like V0. Using the pockets is contrived, since it's easy to go straight past them without using them,.
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Location: VT : DEKD boulders in Killington : Western Frontier : 100th Meridian Boulders
By: rogerk When: Oct 12, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I planned on getting over to Grandma's Hump but ran out of time. Next time.
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Location: VT : Bolton Area : Upper West Bolton : Streamside Arete (Belly Flo... (V0)
By: rogerk When: Oct 12, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Jon,
Are you claiming this as a recent first ascent? This boulder has been climbed on for at least 10 years. I don't think you will find many new FA's under V6 anywhere in the Upper west Bolton area. There is a clandestine guide book dating back to 2001 that documents ~60 problems in this area.
The boulder you're talking about is known as Stream Boulder and has 3 problems on it:
Streamside Arete V0 left side of the arete
Streamside Dyno V3-dyno from quartz on the arete to a horn
Stream Side ... more >>
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Location: VT : DEKD boulders in Killington : Western Frontier : Maritime Boulder : Land Lubber (V0-1)
By: rogerk When: Oct 11, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: This needs a serious cleaning. It would then be a beautiful beginner problem.
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Location: VT : DEKD boulders in Killington : Western Frontier : Maritime Boulder
By: rogerk When: Oct 11, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: One of the most beautiful boulders in VT. Too bad the landing is so sketchy.
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Location: VT : DEKD boulders in Killington : Dirty Crack Boulder : Jugular (V1+)
By: rogerk When: Oct 11, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Does this top out at some point? Or just traverse? It seems like you can start on the left end and traverse up, topping out above Bloody Phalanges?
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Location: VT : DEKD boulders in Killington : Western Frontier : 100th Meridian Boulders
By: rogerk When: Oct 11, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I cleaned 2 problems on the boulder to the left, both on the overhanging face, and ran out of time. One will be laying back off the left arete. The other will be several feet to the right. Have at it, as I don't know when I'll get there again.
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Location: VT : DEKD boulders in Killington : Dirty Crack Boulder : Stinger Mantis (V1)
By: rogerk When: Sep 19, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Way to go freezeus!
I was wondering if you guys were busy cleaning up after Irene. Is driving down 100 to get to Killington even a possibility for this weekend?
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Location: VT : DEKD boulders in Killington : Dirty Crack Boulder : Stinger Mantis (V1)
By: rogerk When: Aug 24, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: The move off the rail feels committing, but the jug is incredible, Once it's dry, you should definitely try it.
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Location: VT : DEKD boulders in Killington : Right Ridge : Big Air Boulder
By: rogerk When: Aug 24, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I did two problems on the short face with the traverse, both V0, neither worth giving a name. I somehow never walked around to the other side.
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Location: VT : DEKD boulders in Killington : Right Ridge : Big Air Boulder
By: rogerk When: Aug 23, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Today, I cleaned the arete to the right of Laid Back Steve. Have at it. Also cleaned up the project face a bit, but I think it's beyond me. Also started to clean the crack on the other side of the boulder, but it was too wet to climb..
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Location: VT : DEKD boulders in Killington : Right Ridge : Spider Pig Boulder
By: rogerk When: Aug 23, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: At least 2 other problems exist on this boulder, both on the arete at the left end of the face that Heel Hooker is on:
Problem 1) Left hand on knob on arete. Right hand wherever. Get feet high and pop right hand high to an edge. Finish straight up. V1? The sit start will be two or three grades harder.
Problem 2) Right Hand on same same arete-knob as mentioned above. Climb up to left of arete. Topout hasn't been cleaned of lichen. V1-2?
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Location: VT : DEKD boulders in Killington : Red eft boulder : Red Eft (V1)
By: rogerk When: Aug 23, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: A really good problem.
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Location: VT : DEKD boulders in Killington : Dirty Crack Boulder : Stinger Mantis (V1)
By: rogerk When: Aug 23, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbed this again today. This will be one of the best problems at its grade in VT once the moss at the topout is cleaned so that the upper holds have a chance to dry out.
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Location: VT : DEKD boulders in Killington : Dr. Evil's Lair
By: rogerk When: Aug 3, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I realized it was the regular boulder as soon as you posted it.
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Location: VT : DEKD boulders in Killington : Spring Sliding Boulder
By: rogerk When: Aug 3, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: If mine was the FA, I'd like to name it Unwound, V2(?).
Also forgot to mention I did another variation. Start on the ledge at the arete of Spring Roll, make a big move left to the crack of Spring Thing. Sprung, V1(?)
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Location: VT : DEKD boulders in Killington : Spring Sliding Boulder
By: rogerk When: Jul 27, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Don't know if anyone has done this yet:
Use starting holds of Wellspring, traverse right to crack of Spring Thing, finish on Spring Thing. V2?
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Location: VT : DEKD boulders in Killington : Dr. Evil's Lair
By: rogerk When: Jul 27, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: What is short SD problem that goes up on edges on the backside of the small boulder to the left of the trail before you get to Fat Bastard? It's excellent.
I cleaned off the ramp that leads into it from the right. Should make for an easy V0 traverse from the right of the boulder to the top of this problem.
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Location: VT : DEKD boulders in Killington : Dr. Evil's Lair : Pig Boulder
By: rogerk When: Jul 27, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: On the Swine quarters side, I've started cleaning off the rail along the top of the boulder. This should make a good traverse from left to right. Have at it.
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Location: VT : DEKD boulders in Killington : Dirty Crack Boulder : Stinger Mantis (V1)
By: rogerk When: Jul 18, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Cool. I hope to find some time next week to get down there again.
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