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Whoever this guy is, he's just plain irresponsible...


Member Since: Sep 5, 2011
Last Visit: 5 hours ago
Contact rogerbenton

Point Rank: # 2,316
Total Points: 262
Last Year: 30
Last 30 Days: 3
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 513 | Routes 5 | Areas | Photos 30 | Page Improvements | Comments 62 | Posts 311 | Stars 85 | Ratings 20
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : d. Harvest Moon to the End : Mac-Reppy (5.11a)
By: rogerbenton When: Jun 7, 2015

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Comments: 5.10 guys???? Are we talking about the same route?
Gotta agree with akline - this thing is HARD.
The hand jam is great, the little left hand edge is ok, but that reach...


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : d. Harvest Moon to the End : Hang Ten (5.10a)
By: rogerbenton When: Jun 7, 2015

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Comments: +1 on the crappy gear just over the lip.

There is a super bomber yellow alien just under the roof however, and a PERFECT blue alien before that.

Trust them, and move quickly. There is good gear a little further past the lip.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : c. Moe (closure) to Harvest... : Honky Tonk Woman (5.9 R)
By: rogerbenton When: Jun 7, 2015

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Comments: Not so sure there is still gear between the bolt and the big #3 horizontal.

I was told of a small offset placement but the rock there appears to have been blown out. Looks like possible fresh rock scaring there. The small offset won't go and it's too shallow and flared there for wires.

There might be a marginal small wire placement one move before the bomber horizontal but by that point you are extremely run out with a small spinner bolt around 10-12 feet below your feet (ground fall p... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : i. High E : Teeny Face (5.10a) : Photo
By: rogerbenton When: Nov 9, 2014

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Comments: Agreed


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Pistol Whipped : Sig Sauer (5.12a) : Photo
By: rogerbenton When: Oct 4, 2014

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Comments: This pic makes my toes hurt.


Location: NH : Cannon Cliff : 4. Moby Grape Area : Peppy's Face (5.12a R)
By: rogerbenton When: Sep 1, 2014

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Comments: Wow.

I can't imagine putting this thing up on lead- Bravo.


Location: NH : Cannon Cliff : 1. Whitney-Gilman Area : Whitney Gilman Ridge (5.7) : Photo
By: rogerbenton When: Sep 1, 2014

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Comments: Ridiculous exposure on this pitch, and great climbing as well.

Stellar.


Location: NH : Cannon Cliff : 4. Moby Grape Area : Moby Grape (5.8)
By: rogerbenton When: Sep 1, 2014

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Comments: I feel like i need to qualify Kurtz's suggestion for pro on reppy's-

a #.75 and one or two #1's fit the beginning of the crack.

it's #2's from there to the pod

a #3.5 protects the pod

#3's from the top of the pod to the end of the crack. (#2's suck here)


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : b. Gelsa to Moe (closure) : To Be Or Not To Be (5.11d R) : Photo
By: rogerbenton When: Aug 19, 2014

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Comments: I wouldn't know for sure which is "THE" way but when we did it we went slightly left where the line in the pic goes slightly right.

Sort of crappy right hand (or match) at the right corner under the block (right above where the yellow line kinks right) then a big move high and left for the top left corner of the block, no?

That's what was chalked up, anyway, and good fun.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : f. The Guides' Wall (Madame... : Beatle Brow Bulge (5.10-)
By: rogerbenton When: Jul 21, 2014

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Comments: 5.9+, G, lots of fun.

Certainly easier than wegtables or simple suff.

small blue camalot for the roof.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : e. The Mac Wall (Something ... : Welcome to the Gunks (5.10a/b PG13)
By: rogerbenton When: Jul 21, 2014

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Comments: Wow. This thing is brutal.
Be very concious of rope drag, the last two roofs are probably much more fun without it.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : k. The Slime Wall : Simple Suff (5.10a/b)
By: rogerbenton When: Jun 18, 2014

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Comments: "Suffering"...

Makes perfect sense.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : l. Sleepy Hollow : 10,000 Restless Virgins (5.10d)
By: rogerbenton When: Jun 16, 2014

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Comments: I dunno, I found this to be tough. The moves and holds are there but it's real work getting established over that roof.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : l. Sleepy Hollow : Boron Destroyer (5.10a/b)
By: rogerbenton When: Jun 16, 2014

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Comments: Didn't think this was so bad. Two crux's if you keep left on the clean white rock.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : d. Strictly - Shockley's : Strictly From Nowhere (5.7)
By: rogerbenton When: Jun 16, 2014

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Comments: That copperhead is still there as of this morning (6/15).
He hangs out on a small ledge with a tuft of grass sticking out.
He was shedding his skin today so he's only getting bigger....


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Erect Direction (5.10c) : Photo
By: rogerbenton When: May 9, 2014

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Comments: Holy smokes-

GREAT shot.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Cascading Crystal Kaleidosc... (5.8 PG13) : Photo
By: rogerbenton When: Jan 27, 2014

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Comments: Mike- we did some variation, the details of which I don't recall. Sort of the direct, sort of something else. Anyway it was one of my first times at the gunks and i was following the rope... and having a blast.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : k. The Slime Wall : Falled on Account of Strain (5.10b)
By: rogerbenton When: Nov 15, 2013

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Comments: Man, what a route. Definitely do it in one pitch. Big smiles, thumping pulse. Made my day.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : a. The Uberfall : Herdie Gerdie (5.8)
By: rogerbenton When: Nov 15, 2013

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Comments: Super easy to set an anchor atop the block to TR this, Dirty Gerdie, Dogs in Heat , Red Cabbage, and Red Cabbage Right.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : b. Jackie and friends : Miss Bailey (5.6 PG13)
By: rogerbenton When: Nov 14, 2013

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Comments: Super fun. It would be a shame not to do all three pitches.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : d. Strictly - Shockley's : Oscar and Charlie (5.7)
By: rogerbenton When: Nov 14, 2013

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Comments: P1- great little corner.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : f. The Guides' Wall (Madame... : Friends and Lovers (5.9 PG13)
By: rogerbenton When: Nov 14, 2013

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Comments: FWIW, Grey Dick calls it PG but also calls out ballnutz for crux pro.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : j. The Yellow Wall (Airy Ar... : The Spring (P1) (5.9)
By: rogerbenton When: Nov 10, 2013

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Comments: Stopped and stood there midway between the overhang and the ground for like 3 minutes dicking around trying to get a micro nut in. Finally gave up and just went to the overhang. After, we watched another party climb it, the leader stopped halfway to the overhang and stood there for like 3 minutes trying to dick in a micro nut before finally giving up and heading upwards... Great little pitch though.

Also- I submit that 'Manly, Yes, But I Like It Too" (which according to the grey Dick is the ar... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : k. The Slime Wall : Techno-Suff (5.11d)
By: rogerbenton When: Oct 26, 2013

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Comments: May as well give it a go after doing Simple Suff. A red c3 for a directional at the top of the right-leaning crack is helpful.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : k. The Slime Wall : Simple Suff (5.10a/b)
By: rogerbenton When: Oct 26, 2013

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Comments: Fun and challenging.

I thought gear was totally fine. Take a BD .75 and smaller with extra small cams and tiny wires and you're good to go.

So- what's a SUFF?


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