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Whoever this guy is, he's just plain irresponsible...


Member Since: Sep 5, 2011
Last Visit: 5 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 2,222
Total Points: 259
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 490 | Routes 5 | Areas | Photos 30 | Page Improvements | Comments 59 | Posts 293 | Stars 84 | Ratings 19
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NY : The Gunks : Peterskill : l. Cuckoo's Nest : 1-800-Stick-It Arete (5.10a)
By: rogerbenton When: Jun 24, 2012

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Comments: this should get climbed more often, especially if you already have a rope over yellow wallpaper on the psycho block wall (which is two feet away).

from TR on yellow wallpaper bolts you can reach a couple cams in horizontals directly over the arete as directionals. we used .3 and .4 C4's but you can get fingertip to hand size pro in under that roof and on the face above.

hell, from TR on yellow wallpaper you can stem over to the top of the arete under the big roof and place gear directionals f... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : Peterskill : i. Terror Dome : Nutmaster (5.8+)
By: rogerbenton When: Jun 24, 2012

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Comments: the regular start is not as shown with the red dotted line in the photo. you start up on the blocks to the right of the arete and traverse left onto the face, then up.

the direct start has two options-

start all the way to the right and hand traverse the horizontal crack under the roof,

or stretch (if you're not tall get a boost) to reach the pointy horn directly under the arete and hit a couple big campus moves to a stance.


Location: NY : The Gunks : Peterskill : i. Terror Dome : A Portrait of the Artist as... (5.8+)
By: rogerbenton When: Jun 24, 2012

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Comments: i thought this had a few nice moves.

this also has a possible direct start but it's dicey:

jump to the good hold under the main face at the arete and campus/heel hook your way to a stance. a little harder than the direct start to the route on the right.


Location: NY : The Gunks : Peterskill : j. Scrotum Pole/Drive in Ar... : Arete I (5.9 R)
By: rogerbenton When: Jun 24, 2012

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Comments: we basically straddled the arete the whole way and it felt like a pretty easy 5.8 at most.


Location: NY : The Gunks : Peterskill : j. Scrotum Pole/Drive in Ar... : Easy Rider (5.6 R)
By: rogerbenton When: Jun 24, 2012

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Comments: i call it PG.
after the starting moves theres a bd .75 from an almost hands free stance.
there's a .4 above that.
then theres a #2 out left you can extend.
then you're at the top and the bolts are right there.

you can set up TR anchors in such a way as to hit this pitch and the "5.9" on the arete (felt like easy 5.7) then flip the anchor sling over and it's positioned perfectly for "sac's fifth avenue" 5.11 on the adjacent face.


Location: NY : The Gunks : Peterskill : m. Psycho Wall : The Yellow Wallpaper (5.9+)
By: rogerbenton When: Jun 24, 2012

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Comments: the bolts are there but they don't have rings so it's best to pull rope up from the top and rap down from the bolts (with rings) to climber's right over 'psycho crack right'.

felt way easy for 5.9+...


Location: NY : The Gunks : Peterskill : m. Psycho Wall : Psycho Crack Left (5.8 PG13)
By: rogerbenton When: Jun 24, 2012

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Comments: for an anchor you can use the bolts over yellow wallpaper with a direction piece of gear over PCL.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : a. The Uberfall : Fitschen's Folly (5.8 X)
By: rogerbenton When: May 26, 2012

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Comments: TR'd this soaking wet today. Nerve racking!

Really nice face climb though, felt a little easier than the thin stuff on Three doves and Arrow. Totally worth doing after Ken's or Boston.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : a. The Uberfall : Laurel (5.7)
By: rogerbenton When: May 21, 2012

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Comments: The "hard moves" to start are really one awkward move to a gear placing stance.

Very nice route, and the fist jam at the top is an awesome last move.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : c. Frog's Head - the Arch : Wrist (5.6)
By: rogerbenton When: May 21, 2012

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Comments: that fixed cam (#3 wired bliss??) is still in the P2 roof and feels solid but easily backed up with a #2 C4.

really fun route.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : k. The Slime Wall : Simple Suff (5.10a/b) : Photo
By: rogerbenton When: Mar 4, 2012

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Comments: that sling/biner situation looks scary.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Photo
By: rogerbenton When: Jan 23, 2012

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Comments: is that a nissan patrol?!?!?!
i didn't know you could even get those in the states...


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : g. V3 - Middle Earth : Sente (5.9) : Photo
By: rogerbenton When: Jan 14, 2012

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Comments: great view of what looks like the thin slabs direct traverse above and right of the tree.
definitely a good destination after sente.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : i. High E : Bonnie's Roof (5.9)
By: rogerbenton When: Jan 4, 2012

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Comments: R.I.P. Bonnie, thanks for all the great lines.
Love this route!


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : g. V3 - Middle Earth : Thin Slabs / Thin Slabs Dir... (5.7+)
By: rogerbenton When: Oct 27, 2011

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Comments: Sente (5.9) followed by the direct third pitch is a money route.
"gather your marbles", indeed!


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : g. V3 - Middle Earth : Thin Slabs / Thin Slabs Dir... (5.7+) : Photo
By: rogerbenton When: Oct 27, 2011

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Comments: yes! +1 on killer!


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : d. Strictly - Shockley's : Shockley's Ceiling (5.6) : Photo
By: rogerbenton When: Oct 11, 2011

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Comments: YEAH!
NICE JOB CRYSTAL!!!


Location: NY : New York City : Central Park : Rat Rock : The flake (V0-1)
By: rogerbenton When: Sep 28, 2011

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Comments: This problem starts right between the two large oak trees. In addition to the "traverse left to the rail" topout and the crystal topout on the right, one can also avoid the rail, crank straight up from the top of the flake to a small knob and pull/mantle up to the top.


Location: NY : The Gunks : Sky Top : Foops (5.11) : Photo
By: rogerbenton When: Sep 26, 2011

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Comments: KILLER photo!!!


Contributed Forum Posts

Topic Title Forum Author Date
re: Gunks pioneer Hans Kraus bookEastern Statesrogerbenton1 day ago
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re: any fixie rider?Other Sportsrogerbenton3 days ago
re: any fixie rider?Other Sportsrogerbenton4 days ago
re: Car-less Climbing New YorkEastern StatesrogerbentonDec 14, 2014
re: Post Awesome Trad Movies HereTrad ClimbingrogerbentonDec 9, 2014
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