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Whoever this guy is, he's just plain irresponsible...


Member Since: Sep 5, 2011
Last Visit: 23 hours ago
Contact rogerbenton


Point Rank: # 2,205
Total Points: 259
Last Year: 35
Last 30 Days: 1
4 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has rogerbenton been climbing?










Contributions


All 482 | Routes 5 | Areas | Photos 30 | Page Improvements | Comments 59 | Posts 285 | Stars 84 | Ratings 19
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : a. The Uberfall : Herdie Gerdie (5.8)
By: rogerbenton When: Nov 15, 2013

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Comments: Super easy to set an anchor atop the block to TR this, Dirty Gerdie, Dogs in Heat , Red Cabbage, and Red Cabbage Right.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : b. Jackie and friends : Miss Bailey (5.6 PG13)
By: rogerbenton When: Nov 14, 2013

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Comments: Super fun. It would be a shame not to do all three pitches.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : d. Strictly - Shockley's : Oscar and Charlie (5.7)
By: rogerbenton When: Nov 14, 2013

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Comments: P1- great little corner.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : f. The Guides' Wall (Madame... : Friends and Lovers (5.9 PG13)
By: rogerbenton When: Nov 14, 2013

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Comments: FWIW, Grey Dick calls it PG but also calls out ballnutz for crux pro.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : j. The Yellow Wall (Airy Ar... : The Spring (P1) (5.9)
By: rogerbenton When: Nov 10, 2013

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Comments: Stopped and stood there midway between the overhang and the ground for like 3 minutes dicking around trying to get a micro nut in. Finally gave up and just went to the overhang. After, we watched another party climb it, the leader stopped halfway to the overhang and stood there for like 3 minutes trying to dick in a micro nut before finally giving up and heading upwards... Great little pitch though.

Also- I submit that 'Manly, Yes, But I Like It Too" (which according to the grey Dick is the ar... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : k. The Slime Wall : Techno-Suff (5.11d)
By: rogerbenton When: Oct 26, 2013

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Comments: May as well give it a go after doing Simple Suff. A red c3 for a directional at the top of the right-leaning crack is helpful.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : k. The Slime Wall : Simple Suff (5.10a/b)
By: rogerbenton When: Oct 26, 2013

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Comments: Fun and challenging.

I thought gear was totally fine. Take a BD .75 and smaller with extra small cams and tiny wires and you're good to go.

So- what's a SUFF?


Location: Climbing Gear Discussion : Old BD 3.5 and 4 compare to... : Post : Photo
By: rogerbenton When: Oct 19, 2013

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Comments: THIS is what I'm talking about. Thanks for taking the time.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : j. The Yellow Wall (Airy Ar... : Double Crack (5.8)
By: rogerbenton When: Oct 1, 2013

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Comments: There's a shoebox sized loose block a little more than half way up, near the second alcove. I marked it with XXX in chalk but that'll wash off so watch out, it's just sitting there looking like a jug. I was doing a lot of thumping on holds before grabbing and there was a bunch of loosy goosey stuff all chalked up. Eeek.

Great route. I combined pitches and used everything I had on me from green c3 to blue c4 and then some. Totally G rated. I was a little curious about the route's reputation for... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Erect Direction (5.10c) : Photo
By: rogerbenton When: Sep 13, 2013

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Comments: Eyes on the prize.
Awesome pic Sean.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : i. High E : Bonnie's Roof (5.9)
By: rogerbenton When: Aug 20, 2013

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Comments: FYI- that little rattly block on the P2 traverse (that always had chalk "X's" on it) is gone.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Annie Oh! (5.8+)
By: rogerbenton When: Aug 20, 2013

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Comments: That "other" scary loose block near the top is REALLY REALLY loose and it is quite large. I went around it to the left but that thing is very likely going to hurt someone. The block in question is oriented horizontally, around 12-14" tall and 5' or so long. Watch out for it, go around it, don't touch it.

Amazing climbing otherwise. Lots of fun.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : a. The Uberfall : The Executioner aka That's ... (5.11d)
By: rogerbenton When: Aug 20, 2013

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Comments: Whoa! Great to see a new variation pop up on such an old classic line. Nice job.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Hans' Puss (5.7) : Photo
By: rogerbenton When: Jun 8, 2013

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Comments: this pitch is easier than 1+2 but it is a lot of fun and absolutely worthwhile.


Location: NY : The Gunks : Photo
By: rogerbenton When: Jun 3, 2013

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Comments: Left or right of the scramble?


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Traverse of the Clods (5.9 PG13)
By: rogerbenton When: Apr 23, 2013

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Comments: Great photos. Can't wait to get on this.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : f. The Guides' Wall (Madame... : Twin Oaks (5.3)
By: rogerbenton When: Apr 14, 2013

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Comments: First pitch is great, I could do that for another 150'. Totally "G".


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : f. The Guides' Wall (Madame... : Hyjek's Horror (5.8+ R)
By: rogerbenton When: Apr 14, 2013

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Comments: Overall, a great little pitch. I really enjoyed it.

I give it a "PG-13":
with a small c3 in that first horizontal and a sinker c4 in the next one, and with decent feet to fiddle them in, I don't see this as "R" rated. Get a good spot, yes, but look around before takeoff for the feet, they're there.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : f. The Guides' Wall (Madame... : Finger Locks or Cedar Box (5.5)
By: rogerbenton When: Apr 14, 2013

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Comments: Pro is G all the way (obviously, it's a crack), don't know how it could be construed as pg-13...


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : f. The Guides' Wall (Madame... : Friends and Lovers (5.9 PG13)
By: rogerbenton When: Apr 14, 2013

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Comments: I'm giving the first pitch a PG-13: there is gear enough to keep you off the deck but there are definitely ugly falls possible, and on less than stellar placements.

Fun pitch, great face climbing.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : Northwest Recess : Whodunit (5.9) : Photo
By: rogerbenton When: Oct 30, 2012

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Comments: holy shit!
way to keep it together.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Hans' Puss (5.7)
By: rogerbenton When: Oct 27, 2012

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Comments: there are some good sized loose blocks at the P1 traverse, careful.

i thought P2 had sparse gear, although the traverse is protected at beginning and end. it's PG by the "crux is protected" rules but you definitely make a few moves feeling like you wish you had some more gear in.

there's a pin at the end of the P2 traverse, go ahead and clip it to be safe but there's a C3 about 3 feet above it and it's totally worth the small downclimb to unclip the pin and alleviate some rope drag.

another... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Three Doves (5.8+) : Photo
By: rogerbenton When: Sep 18, 2012

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Comments: yeah, this is the point where you have to start zig zagging a little to get in gear.

great, great pitch.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Three Doves (5.8+)
By: rogerbenton When: Aug 25, 2012

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Comments: What a great route.

Pin under roof on P2 seems fine. the moves to and after it are great.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : g. V3 - Middle Earth : Cakewalk (5.7)
By: rogerbenton When: Jul 8, 2012

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Comments: pitch one was a fun lead. we did the final easy pitches to the top because i wanted my partner to see the top of the cliff. Here's my description of them:

(text moved) We walked climbers' right through waist high grass to rappel from the bolts above Arrow, and were rewarded with the sweet, insidious itch of chiggers the next night. Awesome.

Thanks, Roger, I moved your description of the upper pitches to the route description! JSH


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