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Whoever this guy is, he's just plain irresponsible.


Member Since: Sep 5, 2011
Last Visit: 20 hours ago
Contact rogerbenton


Point Rank: # 2,216
Total Points: 243
Last Year: 42
Last 30 Days: 2
3 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has rogerbenton been climbing?










Contributions


All 454 | Routes 5 | Areas | Photos 28 | Page Improvments | Comments 53 | Posts 272 | Stars 78 | Ratings 18
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : j. The Yellow Wall (Airy Ar... : Double Crack (5.8)
By: rogerbenton When: Oct 1, 2013

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Comments: There's a shoebox sized loose block a little more than half way up, near the second alcove. I marked it with XXX in chalk but that'll wash off so watch out, it's just sitting there looking like a jug. I was doing a lot of thumping on holds before grabbing and there was a bunch of loosy goosey stuff all chalked up. Eeek.

Great route. I combined pitches and used everything I had on me from green c3 to blue c4 and then some. Totally G rated. I was a little curious about the route's reputation for... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Erect Direction (5.10c) : Photo
By: rogerbenton When: Sep 13, 2013

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Comments: Eyes on the prize.
Awesome pic Sean.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : i. High E : Bonnie's Roof (5.9)
By: rogerbenton When: Aug 20, 2013

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Comments: FYI- that little rattly block on the P2 traverse (that always had chalk "X's" on it) is gone.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Annie Oh! (5.8+)
By: rogerbenton When: Aug 20, 2013

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Comments: That "other" scary loose block near the top is REALLY REALLY loose and it is quite large. I went around it to the left but that thing is very likely going to hurt someone. The block in question is oriented horizontally, around 12-14" tall and 5' or so long. Watch out for it, go around it, don't touch it.

Amazing climbing otherwise. Lots of fun.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : a. The Uberfall : The Executioner aka That's ... (5.11d)
By: rogerbenton When: Aug 20, 2013

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Comments: Whoa! Great to see a new variation pop up on such an old classic line. Nice job.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Hans' Puss (5.7) : Photo
By: rogerbenton When: Jun 8, 2013

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Comments: this pitch is easier than 1+2 but it is a lot of fun and absolutely worthwhile.


Location: NY : The Gunks : Photo
By: rogerbenton When: Jun 3, 2013

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Comments: Left or right of the scramble?


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Traverse of the Clods (5.9 PG13)
By: rogerbenton When: Apr 23, 2013

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Comments: Great photos. Can't wait to get on this.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : f. The Guides' Wall (Madame... : Twin Oaks (5.3)
By: rogerbenton When: Apr 14, 2013

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Comments: First pitch is great, I could do that for another 150'. Totally "G".


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : f. The Guides' Wall (Madame... : Hyjek's Horror (5.8+ R)
By: rogerbenton When: Apr 14, 2013

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Comments: Overall, a great little pitch. I really enjoyed it.

I give it a "PG-13":
with a small c3 in that first horizontal and a sinker c4 in the next one, and with decent feet to fiddle them in, I don't see this as "R" rated. Get a good spot, yes, but look around before takeoff for the feet, they're there.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : f. The Guides' Wall (Madame... : Finger Locks or Cedar Box (5.5)
By: rogerbenton When: Apr 14, 2013

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Comments: Pro is G all the way (obviously, it's a crack), don't know how it could be construed as pg-13...


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : f. The Guides' Wall (Madame... : Friends and Lovers (5.9 PG13)
By: rogerbenton When: Apr 14, 2013

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Comments: I'm giving the first pitch a PG-13: there is gear enough to keep you off the deck but there are definitely ugly falls possible, and on less than stellar placements.

Fun pitch, great face climbing.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : Northwest Recess : Whodunit (5.9) : Photo
By: rogerbenton When: Oct 30, 2012

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Comments: holy shit!
way to keep it together.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Hans' Puss (5.7)
By: rogerbenton When: Oct 27, 2012

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Comments: there are some good sized loose blocks at the P1 traverse, careful.

i thought P2 had sparse gear, although the traverse is protected at beginning and end. it's PG by the "crux is protected" rules but you definitely make a few moves feeling like you wish you had some more gear in.

there's a pin at the end of the P2 traverse, go ahead and clip it to be safe but there's a C3 about 3 feet above it and it's totally worth the small downclimb to unclip the pin and alleviate some rope drag.

another... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Three Doves (5.8+) : Photo
By: rogerbenton When: Sep 18, 2012

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Comments: yeah, this is the point where you have to start zig zagging a little to get in gear.

great, great pitch.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Three Doves (5.8+)
By: rogerbenton When: Aug 25, 2012

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Comments: What a great route.

Pin under roof on P2 seems fine. the moves to and after it are great.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : g. V3 - Middle Earth : Cakewalk (5.7)
By: rogerbenton When: Jul 8, 2012

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Comments: pitch one was a fun lead. we did the final easy pitches to the top because i wanted my partner to see the top of the cliff. Here's my description of them:

(text moved) We walked climbers' right through waist high grass to rappel from the bolts above Arrow, and were rewarded with the sweet, insidious itch of chiggers the next night. Awesome.

Thanks, Roger, I moved your description of the upper pitches to the route description! JSH


Location: NY : The Gunks : Peterskill : Cuckoo's Nest : 1-800-Stick-It Arete (5.10a)
By: rogerbenton When: Jun 24, 2012

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Comments: this should get climbed more often, especially if you already have a rope over yellow wallpaper on the psycho block wall (which is two feet away).

from TR on yellow wallpaper bolts you can reach a couple cams in horizontals directly over the arete as directionals. we used .3 and .4 C4's but you can get fingertip to hand size pro in under that roof and on the face above.

hell, from TR on yellow wallpaper you can stem over to the top of the arete under the big roof and place gear directionals f... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : Peterskill : Terror Dome : Nutmaster (5.8+)
By: rogerbenton When: Jun 24, 2012

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Comments: the regular start is not as shown with the red dotted line in the photo. you start up on the blocks to the right of the arete and traverse left onto the face, then up.

the direct start has two options-

start all the way to the right and hand traverse the horizontal crack under the roof,

or stretch (if you're not tall get a boost) to reach the pointy horn directly under the arete and hit a couple big campus moves to a stance.


Location: NY : The Gunks : Peterskill : Terror Dome : A Portrait of the Artist as... (5.8+)
By: rogerbenton When: Jun 24, 2012

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Comments: i thought this had a few nice moves.

this also has a possible direct start but it's dicey:

jump to the good hold under the main face at the arete and campus/heel hook your way to a stance. a little harder than the direct start to the route on the right.


Location: NY : The Gunks : Peterskill : Scrotum Pole/Drive in Area : Arete I (5.9 R)
By: rogerbenton When: Jun 24, 2012

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Comments: we basically straddled the arete the whole way and it felt like a pretty easy 5.8 at most.


Location: NY : The Gunks : Peterskill : Scrotum Pole/Drive in Area : Easy Rider (5.6 R)
By: rogerbenton When: Jun 24, 2012

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Comments: i call it PG.
after the starting moves theres a bd .75 from an almost hands free stance.
there's a .4 above that.
then theres a #2 out left you can extend.
then you're at the top and the bolts are right there.

you can set up TR anchors in such a way as to hit this pitch and the "5.9" on the arete (felt like easy 5.7) then flip the anchor sling over and it's positioned perfectly for "sac's fifth avenue" 5.11 on the adjacent face.


Location: NY : The Gunks : Peterskill : Psycho Wall : The Yellow Wallpaper (5.9+)
By: rogerbenton When: Jun 24, 2012

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Comments: the bolts are there but they don't have rings so it's best to pull rope up from the top and rap down from the bolts (with rings) to climber's right over 'psycho crack right'.

felt way easy for 5.9+...


Location: NY : The Gunks : Peterskill : Psycho Wall : Psycho Crack Left (5.8 PG13)
By: rogerbenton When: Jun 24, 2012

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Comments: for an anchor you can use the bolts over yellow wallpaper with a direction piece of gear over PCL.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : a. The Uberfall : Fitschen's Folly (5.8 X)
By: rogerbenton When: May 26, 2012

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Comments: TR'd this soaking wet today. Nerve racking!

Really nice face climb though, felt a little easier than the thin stuff on Three doves and Arrow. Totally worth doing after Ken's or Boston.


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