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Location: CO : South Platte : West Creek : Sheep's Nose
By: Roger Rumsey When: Jun 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbed the Southeast Face route this past Saturday (6/13/09)and really enjoyed the fun route finding challenges. It was nice to get on a line that we had virtually no beta for and use our route finding skills to get up. Only one concern. There was a HUGE swarm of bees in the prominent gully on the Southeast face (climber's right of the start of the SE face route). I have never witnessed a swarm of bees in those numbers! They were swarming approximately 100 feet to the right of and level with th... more >>
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Location: CO : San Luis Valley : Penitente Canyon : Penitente - Entrance Area : Forbidden Fruits (5.12a)
By: Roger Rumsey When: Jan 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I have not been on this route since the mid-to-late '90s, probably about the time I seemed to "peak" in regards to my sport abilities. I never considered myself a solid 5.12 climber (especially on-sight). It took me several runs on it before I got it clean. Therefore, the 12a rating is/was (back then) probably accurate. I do remember being really proud once I got the sequences clean. "Ah, to be young again"!
If I got on it today, who knows how many tendons would pop!
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Location: NM : Taos Area : Tres Piedras : Mosaic Rock : Techweenie (5.11+)
By: Roger Rumsey When: Jun 10, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Just came along these posts. Neat to get some historical perspective on TP as I have spent many enjoyable days there.
In particular, I have climbed Techweenie several times (not recently) and am in even greater admiration of Bruce for establishing this route ground up!
I would rate Techweenie as 11c. One of the better routes at TP.
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Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Overlook : South/East side : (29) Thorazine Dream (5.11d)
By: Roger Rumsey When: Feb 1, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Just curious if whoever retrobolted this climb bothered to ask the first ascentionist for permission? Funny, it was a safe lead before retrobolting since the horizontal seam took gear just fine! Next time I see Brian I'll inquiry as to any solicitation for permission. If not, that bolt ought to come out!
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Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : The Tooth
By: Roger Rumsey When: Dec 31, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I would like to second George's comments regarding the Tooth as I was with George on that particular "adventure". I must also say we were using route beta from Dennis Jackson's "Rock Climbing New Mexico" and the Rosul/Dunning "Organ Mountains Climbing Guide".
We started with the intent of doing "Tooth or Consequences". The first two pitches of "T or C" are great with adequate protection. However, as with a lot of Organ Mountain routes one could argue they may be a grade harder than the current ... more >>
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Sundance Buttress : Kor's Flake (5.7)
By: Roger Rumsey When: Aug 28, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: I climbed this route for the first time on Monday, August 21, 2006. It was a great experience, as I led all of the pitches. I would concur with previous posts that this climb should not be taken lightly, even though it is rated at 5.7. I am quite confident leading trad at the 5.9 - 5.10 range. However, we took only one #4 Camalot. I stayed out of the chimney with a combination of face, stemming and laybacking to get up pitch #3. I tried to place my #4 at the beginning of the wi... more >>
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