Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED


Member Since: Oct 13, 2003
Last Visit: Aug 29, 2013
Contact Rodney Ley


Point Rank: # 6,364
Total Points: 54
Last Year: 0
Last 30 Days: 0
0 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Rodney Ley been climbing?










Contributions


All 60 | Routes | Areas | Photos 8 | Page Improvements | Comments 14 | Posts 5 | Stars 30 | Ratings 3
Page 1 of 3.  1  2  3   Next>   Last>>

Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
Tim's Crack first few moves. Easy at first but inc...

Tim's Crack first few moves. Easy at first but increasingly steep (to overhanging) with laybacks, fist jams and slopey jugs. Must have been a bold lead in 1970!

CA : Redwood Coast : ... : Tim's Jam aka Zig Zag (5.8)

Aug 15, 2010

Thoughtful moment as Sam ponders the crux on Tim's...

Thoughtful moment as Sam ponders the crux on Tim's Crack.

CA : Redwood Coast : ... : Comment

Aug 15, 2010

Last couple of moves to the nice 2-bolt anchor (ea...

Last couple of moves to the nice 2-bolt anchor (easily reached from the stairway). Thin and thoughtful for beginning climbers.

CA : Redwood Coast : ... : South Face (5.6)

Aug 15, 2010

South Face (5.6) of Ceremonial Rock in Patricks Po...

South Face (5.6) of Ceremonial Rock in Patricks Point State Park, Cali. Fun TR on cool, moist rock--- crazy that moss grows everywhere except the holds!

CA : Redwood Coast : ... : South Face (5.6)

Aug 15, 2010

Centipede (5.9) on TR above first bolt. If leading...

Centipede (5.9) on TR above first bolt. If leading this route a fall would ground out and second bolt is two spooky moves higher (5.6ish). Bolts are getting old (pic = 2010) and sorta scary.

CA : Redwood Coast : Promontory

Aug 15, 2010

Humboldt Current (5.10a) with first bolt clipped. ...

Humboldt Current (5.10a) with first bolt clipped. August of 2010, very sandy holds, had to be swept repeatedly for decent grip. All the lead bolts are showing corrosion, but anchors are nice s/s glue-

CA : Redwood Coast : Promontory

Aug 15, 2010

Veronica M. from Durango chimneys out of "oce...

Veronica M. from Durango chimneys out of "ocean corridor" area at the base of Centipede (5.9).

CA : Redwood Coast : ... : Comment

Aug 15, 2010

Cali climber w/o a partner we met at Promontory. H...

Cali climber w/o a partner we met at Promontory. He led what we think was Humboldt Current, note screamer at his knees and pumpy pinches on the sandstone pockets. Bold line...

CA : Redwood Coast : ... : Comment

Aug 15, 2010

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Jug Dome aka Anne's Rock : Shag (5.7)
By: Rodney Ley When: Jun 4, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: This is my third year of doing Shag as a nice early season warm up. Looks like most of the flakey/loose stuff is gone now. Wish a doubled 70m touched the ground---it's close but not quite close enough.


Location: CA : Redwood Coast : Patrick's Point State Park
By: Rodney Ley When: Aug 15, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: Patricks Point SP Day use per car in August 2010 was $8 with a sign posted that says "We need ones". Actually California State Parks needs A LOT of ones.


Location: CA : Redwood Coast : Patrick's Point State Park : Wedding Rock : Tim's Jam aka Zig Zag (5.8)
By: Rodney Ley When: Aug 15, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: Tim's Jam (or Crack) aka Zig Zag is a decidedly non-ocean type feature. Although not particularly high (20 meters +/-) it is an airy climb with wide-crack laybacking and thrashing. Photo shows the spot right below the crux.
Thoughtful moment as Sam ponders the crux on Tim's...
Thoughtful moment as Sam ponders the crux on Tim's Crack.



Location: CA : Redwood Coast : Promontory
By: Rodney Ley When: Aug 15, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: Centipede was a great introduction to ocean area climbing: dramatic surf pounding nearby, steep/solid rock, and interesting moves. As a Colorado climber I was appalled at the condition of the bolt heads, but some of them might be 19 years old! Could not find a 2-bolt anchor at the top as mentioned in the local guidebook, but rigged okay TR anchor off two s/s bolts about 10 meters back and left of the master point.
Veronica M. from Durango chimneys out of "oce...
Veronica M. from Durango chimneys out of "ocean corridor" area at the base of Centipede (5.9).



Location: CA : Redwood Coast : Promontory : Main Wall : Humboldt Current (5.10a)
By: Rodney Ley When: Aug 15, 2010

view comment >>
Comments:
Cali climber w/o a partner we met at Promontory. H...
Cali climber w/o a partner we met at Promontory. He led what we think was Humboldt Current, note screamer at his knees and pumpy pinches on the sandstone pockets. Bold line...

If this climb we did really is Humboldt Current then it is pretty stiff at its grade. Was way sandy for us spoiled Colorado climbers, and plenty of flakes coming off with every move. Pretty scary by Colorado standards, props to the FA crew.


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : Greyrock : The South Slabs : Aunt Edna's Costume Jewelry (5.7)
By: Rodney Ley When: Jul 10, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: I noted today that a party with a brand new Edelweiss rope labeled 70m on the tip was in fact one meter shy of reaching the ground. They did fine with rope stretch on their rap.

My Sterling 9.8 rope (labeled 70m) just barely touched the ground. So I agree, with care, a 70m rope should do fine.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Loch Vale & vicinity
By: Rodney Ley When: Nov 29, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: Visited Loch Vale ice flows on Saturday, November 28. Not in on right side or Mixed Feelings (almost nothing touching the ground--if you climb it please be gentle). Mo Flo Than Go was in about 50% of max, a little water here and there, okay spot for two teams who cooperate (thanks guys from Golden). Needs a little more freezing and fattening.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Big Thompson Canyon Ice
By: Rodney Ley When: Jan 25, 2007

view comment >>
Comments: Big Thompson Ice Fall (park at Handicap Fishing Pull-out above Drake) Date: 23 January 2007. Looks like a fair number of locals are cruising up to the upper Falls; falls are in "OK", but lower angle than I remember in years past. Good for 5-8 meters of fun top roping WI2-3+. Lower Falls are only a smeary 3-4 meter slab (not visible from road).

Enough room for two small parties to have a good time--- bring some longish slings to tie off the massive dead tree above. BTW: I cut several m... more >>


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice
By: Rodney Ley When: Dec 17, 2006

view comment >>
Comments: Went up to RMNP's Mills Lake area on Saturday, December 16, 2006. Great ice in everywhere--- lots of parties on the more popular routes (e.g. All Mixed Up).

Floatation nice off trail, but main trail(s) are packed out nice. Looks like a very good year anywhere up Loch Vale or Black Lake.


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : Greyrock : Southeast Face : Central Chimney (5.4)
By: Rodney Ley When: Jul 3, 2006

view comment >>
Comments: Central Chimney is a nice route at a beginner's level.

Tip of the week: watch out for rope drag, since most of the route is low-angle and very easy, there is a temptation to run out the rope.

I didn't think pro was a problem, but then I cut my teeth on chimneys at Vedauwoo.


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : Greyrock : The South Slabs : Slab Happy (5.7)
By: Rodney Ley When: Jun 30, 2006

view comment >>
Comments: Agreed, Slab Happy is one sweet route. (And be sure to take a 1" piece to protect the slightly runout hard 5.7+ finish.)

Many routes at Greyrock are hard to find. My advice is to locate any obvious route for absolutely certain, then slowly work your way left or right to find the one you're looking for.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Emerald Lake / Tyndall Gorg... : Flattop Mountain - S side : Dragon's Tail Couloir (WI2 M2)
By: Rodney Ley When: May 11, 2006

view comment >>
Comments: Climbed Dragon's Tail Couloir 10 May 2006 with Jim D. from Fort Collins. (And thanks to others for recent posts on conditions.)

Our report:

Left TH at 5:45 AM, again, just enough time to finish before the upper section became scary loose, balling up snow. No fixed line visible, but there was a lot of spin drift in the upper section.

Rock band is classic, easy but scary. We 3rd classed it, so we'd rate it 5.0 R.

We took snowshoes up with us and *really* needed them on the way down. The snow w... more >>


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Big Thompson Canyon Ice
By: Rodney Ley When: Feb 22, 2005

view comment >>
Comments: Report for Big-T icefall on Monday, Feb. 21. Good ice is still left although obviously there have been a lot of "classes" held there recently. (About one dozen "v-threads" placed at the base of the upper falls.)

Ice volume is about 75% of max and plastic, and if you don't mind the chopped up nature, nice climbing at the WI1+ level. It will last about another 3 weeks with a little cold weather, only a little water was running at the upper falls.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Glacier Gorge : Black Lake Slabs (WI2-3)
By: Rodney Ley When: Jan 2, 2005

view comment >>
Comments: Went to Black Lake Slabs with Jim D, Terry and Marlene P. on Sunday. Incredible amount of ice in everywhere--- West Gully was a large and wide as we have ever seen it. We climbed the traditional Black Lake slab flow, WI2-3. Numerous flows were coming off the Reflections area and high on Thatchtop. Snowshoes handy as you approach Black Lake itself.


Contributed Forum Posts

Topic Title Forum Author Date
re: Lumpy Ridge Fatal AccidentInjuries and AccidentsRodney LeyAug 24, 2013
re: The 2012-13 Colorado Ice Conditions Thread ColoradoRodney LeyDec 25, 2012
re: You guys have inspired me!! This may sound like another acid dream but it is all true!NevadaRodney LeyMay 2, 2010
Page 1 of 3.  1  2  3   Next>   Last>>