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Member Since: Apr 24, 2006
Last Visit: May 17, 2010
Contact rocky233


Point Rank: # 7,331
Total Points: 38
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 34 | Routes 1 | Areas 1 | Photos 1 | Page Improvments | Comments 8 | Posts | Stars 12 | Ratings 11

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : San Diego County : Mission Gorge : Limbo Area : The Tower (5.7)
By: rocky233 When: May 17, 2010

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Comments: New Leaders Please Take Note:
This is NOT a Sport Climb.
This is a mixed (bolt & gear) climb for 5.7-8 leaders.
New leaders, especially sport leaders, should think twice before running this climb out on only bolts.
If you're an experienced 5.9 leader, go for it.
The 4 bolts were placed in typical Mission Gorge style so that up to 4 gear placements could also be made, depending on your comfort level.
1. 1st piece - low down in first 10 ft, optional.
2. 2nd piece - in horizontal just before first ... more >>


Location: CA : San Diego County : Mission Gorge : Middle Earth : Risky Business (5.10a)
By: rocky233 When: Mar 20, 2010

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Comments: There are actually 2 very solid nut placements about 3-4 feet apart. It's recommended you use both of them.
The lower bolt was not necessary. There is enough gear for someone who knows how to trad climb. It was initially placed by Art, maybe it was removed by him.


Location: CA : San Diego County : Mount Woodson : Sickle Crack Boulder : Sickle Crack (5.8+)
By: rocky233 When: Jul 1, 2009

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Comments: I've always considered Sickle the 5.8 "standard" for OW cracks, and that's as a lead climb.
When the gym climbers leave the safety of their nest, they are very strong but totally lack crack skills. The upward creep in crack ratings the last decade is the result of their frustration and ineptitude.


Location: CA : San Diego County : Mission Gorge : Main Wall : Trapeze (5.11 PG13)
By: rocky233 When: Sep 1, 2008

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Comments: This is a great Trad climb. I'd even give it 4 stars by MG standards. Its damn hard and even harder for short people. Also this climb is probably the best clean aid practice climb at Mission Gorge. Great practice for leader and follower.


Location: CA : San Diego County : Mount Woodson : Poison Oak Boulder Area : Big Grunt (5.9+) : Photo
By: rocky233 When: Jun 30, 2007

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Comments: Well, whatever works for you. But facing right looks kinda like the Sport Climbers variation. Everyone I've known for 20 years faces left. Facing left is the OW climbers variation. Two heel-toe locks and a chicken wing, and you're inside the squeeze in no time.


Location: CA : San Diego County : Mount Woodson : Poison Oak Boulder Area : Big Grunt (5.9+) : Photo
By: rocky233 When: Jun 25, 2007

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Comments: Josh ... turn around, your facing the wrong way!


Location: CA : San Diego County : Mount Woodson : Seminar Wall Area : Right Long's Crack (5.11)
By: rocky233 When: Jun 21, 2006

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Comments: Anybody who rates Right Longs 5.11b definitely has not done it. This is harder than Mother Superior.


Location: CA : San Diego County : Mount Woodson : The Summit Area : Crucible (5.10d)
By: rocky233 When: Jun 21, 2006

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Comments: I've lead this climb several times and solo TR'd it with an arm cast on. This climb is NOT a sandabag and was fairly rated 5.10b for many years by people who knew how to climb wide cracks. Just because you gym rats and sport climbers suck at wide cracks, don't think you can simply pump up the rating to pump up your ego.