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Member Since: Apr 24, 2006
Last Visit: May 17, 2010
Contact rocky233


Point Rank: # 7,723
Total Points: 38
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 34 | Routes 1 | Areas 1 | Photos 1 | Page Improvements | Comments 8 | Posts | Stars 12 | Ratings 11
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Contributed Routes

Name Rating Type Location Date

Edge of Time Arete

5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b (2)

Trad, Alpine, 14 pitches, 2000'

CA : High Sierra : The Citadel

Jul 20, 2006

Contributed Areas

Name Location Date

The Citadel

CA : High Sierra

Jul 20, 2006

Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
The Citadel (north face). Edge of Time is the prom...

The Citadel (north face). Edge of Time is the prominent sharp arete in left center of photo.

CA : High Sierra : The Citadel

Aug 2, 2006

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : San Diego County : Mission Gorge : Limbo Area : The Tower (5.7)
By: rocky233 When: May 17, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: New Leaders Please Take Note:
This is NOT a Sport Climb.
This is a mixed (bolt & gear) climb for 5.7-8 leaders.
New leaders, especially sport leaders, should think twice before running this climb out on only bolts.
If you're an experienced 5.9 leader, go for it.
The 4 bolts were placed in typical Mission Gorge style so that up to 4 gear placements could also be made, depending on your comfort level.
1. 1st piece - low down in first 10 ft, optional.
2. 2nd piece - in horizontal just before first ... more >>


Location: CA : San Diego County : Mission Gorge : Middle Earth : Risky Business (5.10a)
By: rocky233 When: Mar 20, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: There are actually 2 very solid nut placements about 3-4 feet apart. It's recommended you use both of them.
The lower bolt was not necessary. There is enough gear for someone who knows how to trad climb. It was initially placed by Art, maybe it was removed by him.


Location: CA : San Diego County : Mount Woodson : Sickle Crack Boulder : Sickle Crack (5.8+)
By: rocky233 When: Jul 1, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: I've always considered Sickle the 5.8 "standard" for OW cracks, and that's as a lead climb.
When the gym climbers leave the safety of their nest, they are very strong but totally lack crack skills. The upward creep in crack ratings the last decade is the result of their frustration and ineptitude.


Location: CA : San Diego County : Mission Gorge : Main Wall : Trapeze (5.11 PG13)
By: rocky233 When: Sep 1, 2008

view comment >>
Comments: This is a great Trad climb. I'd even give it 4 stars by MG standards. Its damn hard and even harder for short people. Also this climb is probably the best clean aid practice climb at Mission Gorge. Great practice for leader and follower.


Location: CA : San Diego County : Mount Woodson : Poison Oak Boulder Area : Big Grunt (5.9+) : Photo
By: rocky233 When: Jun 30, 2007

view comment >>
Comments: Well, whatever works for you. But facing right looks kinda like the Sport Climbers variation. Everyone I've known for 20 years faces left. Facing left is the OW climbers variation. Two heel-toe locks and a chicken wing, and you're inside the squeeze in no time.


Location: CA : San Diego County : Mount Woodson : Poison Oak Boulder Area : Big Grunt (5.9+) : Photo
By: rocky233 When: Jun 25, 2007

view comment >>
Comments: Josh ... turn around, your facing the wrong way!


Location: CA : San Diego County : Mount Woodson : Seminar Wall Area : Right Long's Crack (5.11)
By: rocky233 When: Jun 21, 2006

view comment >>
Comments: Anybody who rates Right Longs 5.11b definitely has not done it. This is harder than Mother Superior.


Location: CA : San Diego County : Mount Woodson : The Summit Area : Crucible (5.10d)
By: rocky233 When: Jun 21, 2006

view comment >>
Comments: I've lead this climb several times and solo TR'd it with an arm cast on. This climb is NOT a sandabag and was fairly rated 5.10b for many years by people who knew how to climb wide cracks. Just because you gym rats and sport climbers suck at wide cracks, don't think you can simply pump up the rating to pump up your ego.


Contributed Stars

Name Quality Location

Crucible 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

CA : San Diego County : ... : The Summit Area

Edge of Time Arete 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

CA : High Sierra : The Citadel

Right Long's Crack 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

CA : San Diego County : ... : Seminar Wall Area

Trapeze 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13

CA : San Diego County : ... : Main Wall

Bat Flake 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

CA : San Diego County : ... : The Cave Area

Ogre 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

CA : San Diego County : ... : The Summit Area

Mother Superior 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

CA : San Diego County : ... : Mother Superior Boulder

The Test Tube 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

CA : San Diego County : ... : The Summit Area

Werner's Wish 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

CA : San Diego County : ... : Poison Oak Boulder Area

Eric's Face 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

CA : San Diego County : ... : Robbins Boulder

Digit's Delight 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

CA : San Diego County : ... : The Cave Area

Left Long's Crack 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

CA : San Diego County : ... : Seminar Wall Area

Contributed Ratings

Name Established Rating Suggested Rating Location

Right Long's Crack

5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

CA : San Diego County : ... : Seminar Wall Area

Trapeze

5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13

5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

CA : San Diego County : ... : Main Wall

Mother Superior

5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

CA : San Diego County : ... : Mother Superior Boulder

The Test Tube

5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

CA : San Diego County : ... : The Summit Area

Ogre

5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

CA : San Diego County : ... : The Summit Area

Eric's Face

5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

CA : San Diego County : ... : Robbins Boulder

Werner's Wish

5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

CA : San Diego County : ... : Poison Oak Boulder Area

Left Long's Crack

5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

CA : San Diego County : ... : Seminar Wall Area

Digit's Delight

5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

CA : San Diego County : ... : The Cave Area

Bat Flake

5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

CA : San Diego County : ... : The Cave Area

Crucible

5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

CA : San Diego County : ... : The Summit Area

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