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Location: UT : Moab Area : Arches National Park : Tower of Babel : Zenyatta Entrada (5.4 C3) : Photo
By: rock_fencer When: Apr 27, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: tricam???
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Location: NC : Cedar Rock : Photo
By: rock_fencer When: Nov 4, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: this is by far one of the top five best pitches in NC!!!
post up the route under cedar when you can Nathan...a solid addition!
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Location: NC : Looking Glass Rock : North Side : Safari Jive Direct (5.11c PG13)
By: rock_fencer When: Jun 12, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: If anybody has the FA info it would be great to have. This variation of P1 is much more interesting and adds a number of harder moves
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Location: NC : Looking Glass Rock : Sun Wall : Two Legged Snake (5.9)
By: rock_fencer When: May 20, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: currently a hornet/wasp/something that stings nest about 30 ft up in the really good eyebrow
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Location: NC : Rumbling Bald : Cereal Buttress : Fruit Loops (5.7+) : Photo
By: rock_fencer When: May 9, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: If only it were that steep!
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Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Lower Small Wall : Caterpillar Crack (5.6)
By: rock_fencer When: Apr 23, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: watch the top of the first ledge...lots of loose rock that needs cleaning
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Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Dip Wall : The Lorax Tree (5.9+)
By: rock_fencer When: Apr 23, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This will take anything from Hands to fists to bigger cams, whatever you want. TR sets up nicely with a 4,5,6. Rap off tree
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Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Long Wall : Perforator (5.10a)
By: rock_fencer When: Apr 23, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Gear: hands to fists. A # 4 will protect the run to the roof. Roof takes .75/.5 C4's. Really wide above but can get a few pieces right after the roof (offset blue/yellow works really well as does a purple C4).
Has a bolted anchor at the top. A single 60 will get you down to the top of the block but not the ground.
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Location: NC : Rumbling Bald : Hanging Chain : Sly Hooks (5.10c/d)
By: rock_fencer When: Jan 30, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Concur with all of the above. Excellent addition to Hanging Chain. I will caution one to be wary of the edges directly off the ledge, broke a large chunk off the first flake above the ledge on 1/29. Route is no harder/easier now. Tread gingerly as falling on the ledge would be no bueno!
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Location: NC : Rumbling Bald : Comatose Area : Rusty Redneck (5.10c)
By: rock_fencer When: Jan 12, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: After the first three bolts on the arete keep left and resist the temptation to follow the line of least resistance.
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Location: NC : Rumbling Bald : Cereal Wall : Snap, Crackle, and Pop (5.11b PG13)
By: rock_fencer When: Dec 18, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: i'll add that after the corner i traversed back to climbers left to get a piece and generally went straight to the top, with a few placements .5-.75 C4 size, topping out on a large moss pad.
Fun route that i thought was pumpy, though i was continuously worried about breaking holds
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Location: NC : Looking Glass Rock : North Side : Pooter the Poacher (5.10c)
By: rock_fencer When: Oct 24, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Do not do this with one rope unless you want to really suffer. Had to cut to the crack about 15 feet from the anchors because i needed one hand to pull up slack
Great route with challenging route finding and unbelievable slab goodness. Great gear between bolts, bring a ton of slings. After the fourth bolt im unsure where this route actually goes. 5.10 terrain if you go left and ride the blackish dike as described or if you track up right, like i did, you get a couple good small cams but it gets... more >>
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Location: NC : Linville Gorge : Shortoff Mountain : Paradise Alley (5.8+)
By: rock_fencer When: Oct 24, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Variation: Climb P1 as described. P2 heads straight up from belay stance and cuts out right under roof onto a lichen covered face with jug hauling for a full 170 feet or so up to a large ledge. P3 head up and left for 40 feet or so to top of buttress- could be linked with P2 possibly. P4 move left on top and climb another 40 feet to top of cliff. Good fun and exposure
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Location: NC : Linville Gorge : Shortoff Mountain : Built to Tilt (5.10a)
By: rock_fencer When: Oct 24, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: only three stars because of the approach pitches. Highly suggest to rappel in from the top. From the bottom Start on Serentripitous and climb the fun and mellow crack up to a vegetated ledge. Unrope and bushwack up the hill to a corner under a large notch. Rack up for some 5.8 bucket hauling up to the ledge. Pitch three takes at least three good pieces under the roof if you get nervous. Crank the boulder problem and bucket haul to the top.
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Location: NC : Looking Glass Rock : South Side : Bat's Ass (5.10+)
By: rock_fencer When: Oct 10, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: we got in a good grey and a shitty red C3. Guess the blue tcu was better than the red c3, cause the c3 was crappy.
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Location: NC : Looking Glass Rock : South Side : Bat's Ass (5.10+)
By: rock_fencer When: Oct 9, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Gear was thin and questionable above the horizontal above the bolt in my opinion. P1 is good face climbing for a bit then eases up considerably. P2 is some of the best 5.9 slab at the glass with bomber gear! Nice work on putting it up.
For just a 5.9 feel, i think climbing P1 of Windwalker into P2 of Bats ass would be a great linkup.
In retrospect i'm unsure if we started in the correct place. Clipped the first low bolt left of the left facing mini corner that is left of windwalker.
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Location: NC : Looking Glass Rock : Sun Wall : Scotty Pippen (5.10)
By: rock_fencer When: Oct 9, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route is a classic! P1 is amazingly well protected, has great movement, no mega runouts, and is generally great! Good stuff Phil and Brian
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Location: NC : Looking Glass Rock : South Side : Chaos Out of Control (5.10c)
By: rock_fencer When: Sep 17, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: This climb is excellent! The rock is high quality. Heady moves above gear. Gear is pretty standard (every 10-15 feet or so)mostly thin, & sometimes questionable but mostly decent to good. Would not want to do this on a hot day. 2 bolts on 2nd pitch up to ring anchors. Can take up to top with another pitch and end at hemlock to climbers left.
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Location: NC : Linville Gorge : Amphitheater : The Open Book (5.11b)
By: rock_fencer When: Jul 5, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: The tat on the bolts has been cut off. no idea why it was there to begin with. Pin's can be backed up with small cams. Fixed nut is still in place, but kinda gets in the way i thought. thin hands to #4 for the rest of it.
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Location: NC : Looking Glass Rock : Hidden Wall : Carboman (5.10c/d PG13)
By: rock_fencer When: Jun 12, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: P2 has a new camo 3/8 in bolt. After the bolt you can get a purple tcu in a flake before running it out up and right to the new set of anchor bolts. P3 rides a very fun black/red dike up to a gear belay and should be done! P4 climbs through some dirty eyebrows, generally trending up and right. We found a next of old nuts with rusty cables that you could probably rap off if you had two ropes, but it looked sketch.
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Location: NC : Cedar Rock : Cedar Rock - Main Wall : Cedar Pie (5.10c PG13)
By: rock_fencer When: Apr 8, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: This climb takes gear just fine, some small some large. Double ropes are optional but could be useful. After the last bolt fire straight up through good eyebrows (save at least 1 red C3/blue tcu) leading to thin edging up to the quartz horizontal.
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Location: NC : Whiteside Mountain : Southeast Face : Whippin' Boy (5.11d)
By: rock_fencer When: Mar 14, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: P2. Harder down low for sure. Go straight up through lichen covered holds on the face just right of the corner. You can traverse right as well, maybe slightly easier.
P3. Amazing face climbing pitch. Unfolds effortlessly. Small Offset cams useful. Generally trends up and to the left from P2 belay.
P4. JUGS JUGS JUGS. Trend up and left before pulling an ackward mantle onto a small ledge just under the overhang. Rest up and move past two bolts down low protecting the technical crux. Keep moving ... more >>
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Location: GA : Tallulah Gorge : Main Wall : I Yam What I Yam (5.11c)
By: rock_fencer When: Feb 14, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: This has a campus start on good horizontals leading up to some creative footwork out before getting situated in the horizontals. This is not a finger crack, this is a pumpy horizontal haul that takes big gear. Serious potential for ground fall in certain places. Great climb but packs a punch. Rack: assortment of finger sizes, .5-#3, doubles on .75 C4's, some nuts and runners.
P2 of Chimney route anchor is currently 2 rusty pitons and a small chockstone w/ black webbing and rap ri... more >>
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Location: NC : Cedar Rock : Cedar Rock - Main Wall : Caught Up in the Air (5.11a)
By: rock_fencer When: Feb 12, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Pin on P1 has been removed and now takes a bomber red c3/blue tcu. Rap anchors above small roof at the end of P1 w old biners new webbing (2/11/2011) and a rap ring. Clipping the 1st bolt on P2 is not hard at all, pulling the mantle move is an off balance mantle and reach
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Location: NC : Linville Gorge : Amphitheater : The Daddy (5.6)
By: rock_fencer When: Jun 15, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Going to agree with Tom Caldwell. A better day that would keep things interesting would be to Climb the Mummy and rap down to the Ledge at the end of pitch 3 of The Daddy and climb out...just follow the trail along the ridge to get back.
Pitch 1 -3 are uninteresting if you are a more experienced leader IMHO
As of 6/13/2010 there is some cord at the end of Pitch 2 with 2 biner's for what i presumed was someone bailing off. I left them there.
T
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