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 ADVANCED
Myself placing a a blue/yellow offset MC to protect between Bolt 2/3 just post crux . <br /> <br />Picture credit goes to eric Singleton, and many thanks to Josh Bagget for the great belay.


Member Since: Dec 20, 2009
Last Visit: 5 days ago
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 1002 | Routes 8 | Areas | Photos 26 | Page Improvements | Comments 42 | Posts 726 | Stars 159 | Ratings 41
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NC : Looking Glass Rock : Sun Wall : The Electric Kool-Aid Acid ... (5.12c/d)
By: rock_fencer When: Apr 3, 2014

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Comments: this is one route that it would be nice to keep the semantics of who did what and in what style out of the picture. Its such a good climb that tainting it with these things is a disservice to all who send. Keep the politics out...we have enough of it in NC


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Fiddler on the Roof (5.10+)
By: rock_fencer When: Mar 13, 2014

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Comments: a few things about this route:

1) what is the deal with P6? we climbed past three bolts like the description and found a fourth bolt but no anchor and just lowered off a biner not wanting to do some BS traverse to the left.

2) Does anyone know the length of the bolts - because there was like 1.5-2 inch of threads past the nut on some of them?

3) Engaging climbing definitely requiring one to stay in the zone. There is a horizontal with a very thin flexing flake somewhere on the early part ... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Challenger Wall : Adventure Punks (5.10d)
By: rock_fencer When: Mar 13, 2014

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Comments: I fixed a #5 on P3 like a F%^&ing n00b on it this past tuesday...It might come out with some work.


Location: South Carolina : Table Rock : Main Face : Peelin' Feelin' (5.10c/d PG13)
By: rock_fencer When: Jan 13, 2014

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Comments: this is about the closest introduction to the main wall climbing you can get. good route


Location: NC : Looking Glass Rock : Nose Area : Sensemilia Sunset (5.9+ R)
By: rock_fencer When: Dec 20, 2013

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Comments: i guess i fall into the category of people who get on this climb because its good. By far the best route on the nose that i've done to date. Heady in spots but is no worse than PG13 -- gear is bomber when its there.

P1: Definitely best to start over by sundial and angle into the bulge (takes a yellow tcu, yello/blue offset -- save a purple tcu for the thin eyebrow right before you pull some moves). Angle up and right towards the bolted anchor that you can see from the ground. P2 engages you... more >>


Location: NC : Rumbling Bald : Left Field : Who's on First (5.11a)
By: rock_fencer When: Dec 15, 2013

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Comments: Climbed this one today...i removed some suspect fixed gear at the end of P2. Two double 60m raps get you to the ground.


Location: NC : Whiteside Mountain : Southeast Face : Whippin' Boy (5.11d)
By: rock_fencer When: Oct 20, 2013

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Comments: 2nd bolt on the 11d pitch had a carabiner on it. When i went to clip the bolt it spun and the nut almost fell off. I hand tightened it as best i could. For whoever bailed off that one bolt - you are a 2 thread lucky sob and should reconsider your bailing strategies.

Please update if anyone brings a wrench out there with them.

Date : 10/20/13


Location: NC : Cathey's Creek Crag : The Cave : Crack of Tiers (5.10+)
By: rock_fencer When: Aug 18, 2013

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Comments: I know in the guidebook it lists the top roof as a closed project...please by all means if someone is interested in freeing it, have at it. Gear is large finger and small stuff, then a bigger 2 or 3 dont remember once you pull the roof. Very strange sequence that i never really worked out all the way.

T


Location: NC : Looking Glass Rock : South Side : B-52 (5.10a)
By: rock_fencer When: Jul 8, 2013

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Comments: thanks Wes for the bolting job! That should help in people rediscovering this classic gem. -T


Location: NC : Rumbling Bald : Screamweaver Area : Screamweaver (5.11c/d)
By: rock_fencer When: Jul 8, 2013

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Comments: ^ direct finish is distinctly harder than the original finish which cuts out right. You will take log some flight time if you blow it as there is not really any gear after the big horizontal until you top out on the ledge


Location: NC : Big Green : Grand Delusion (5.11a)
By: rock_fencer When: Jun 23, 2013

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Comments: I would agree with everything except that the Crux move has legitimate ledge fall concern with gear at your feet at the base of the ledge. Personally i'm not risking my ankle. I honestly think that to make this a true gem a bolt protecting this ledge fall should be considered.

Secondly the flake lower down needs to be trundled properly, i almost pulled it off just by looking at the damn thing let alone pulling on it. Disaster in the making if you yard on this flake hard.

Otherwise fun movem... more >>


Location: NC : Whiteside Mountain : Southeast Face : Original Route (aka Gom Jab... (5.11a R)
By: rock_fencer When: Jun 23, 2013

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Comments: Removed a very loose block on P2 after almost going with it. Very typical whiteside route. 10c pitch is not that polished at all and straightforward (i'm 5'10) - definitely lug a #3 up for this one. Crux pitch takes some figuring out and isn't immensely physically hard, just technical positioning. Great route to do on a full moon. took 4 hours car to car with crux pitch done by headlamp. Finish on Traditions

rack used was single #3-.5 C4's, and metolius blue-orange including blue/... more >>


Location: NC : Laurel Knob : High & Dry (5.11-)
By: rock_fencer When: Jun 23, 2013

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Comments: there is a hornet's nest in the hole as of 6/23/13...if your allergic like me be warry


Location: NC : Looking Glass Rock : Nose Area : Hyperbola Direct Start (5.11a)
By: rock_fencer When: Jun 2, 2013

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Comments: P2 has a shitty rusty bolt visible from the P1 anchors. Decent gear and fun moves right off the anchor 5.9+ up to a gear belay in an eyebrow above the bulge ~ 80-100 ft. P3 slab it out in a groove trending towards the nose anchor (up and climbers left) for a full 240 ft (70m rope doesnt quite make the anchor but gets you to 5.1 terrain) 5.6/7 ish.


Location: NC : Cedar Rock : Cedar Rock - Main Wall : Rawhide Arch (5.10d)
By: rock_fencer When: May 27, 2013

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Comments: this is a much overlooked gem. Rock quality is fine albeit gritty. Do it in one pitch for good times. Tops at a ratty sling on a pine tree. Traverse 30 ft left to rap off Caught Up In The Air ( anchors may be hiding behind a small little tree but they are there)


Location: NC : Cedar Rock : Cedar Rock - North : Black Swan (5.10b)
By: rock_fencer When: May 27, 2013

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Comments: For P2 aim for a green webbing anchor in a pine tree with a quick link on it. up and right.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Arches National Park : Tower of Babel : Zenyatta Entrada (5.4 C3) : Photo
By: rock_fencer When: Apr 27, 2013

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Comments: tricam???


Location: NC : Cedar Rock : Photo
By: rock_fencer When: Nov 4, 2012

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Comments: this is by far one of the top five best pitches in NC!!!

post up the route under cedar when you can Nathan...a solid addition!


Location: NC : Looking Glass Rock : North Side : Safari Jive Direct (5.11c PG13)
By: rock_fencer When: Jun 12, 2012

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Comments: If anybody has the FA info it would be great to have. This variation of P1 is much more interesting and adds a number of harder moves


Location: NC : Looking Glass Rock : Sun Wall : Two Legged Snake (5.9)
By: rock_fencer When: May 20, 2012

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Comments: currently a hornet/wasp/something that stings nest about 30 ft up in the really good eyebrow


Location: NC : Rumbling Bald : Cereal Buttress : Fruit Loops (5.7+) : Photo
By: rock_fencer When: May 9, 2012

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Comments: If only it were that steep!


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Lower Small Wall : Caterpillar Crack (5.6)
By: rock_fencer When: Apr 23, 2012

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Comments: watch the top of the first ledge...lots of loose rock that needs cleaning


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Dip Wall : The Lorax Tree (5.9+)
By: rock_fencer When: Apr 23, 2012

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Comments: This will take anything from Hands to fists to bigger cams, whatever you want. TR sets up nicely with a 4,5,6. Rap off tree


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Long Wall : Perforator (5.10a)
By: rock_fencer When: Apr 23, 2012

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Comments: Gear: hands to fists. A # 4 will protect the run to the roof. Roof takes .75/.5 C4's. Really wide above but can get a few pieces right after the roof (offset blue/yellow works really well as does a purple C4).

Has a bolted anchor at the top. A single 60 will get you down to the top of the block but not the ground.


Location: NC : Rumbling Bald : Hanging Chain : Sly Truths (5.10c/d)
By: rock_fencer When: Jan 30, 2012

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Comments: Concur with all of the above. Excellent addition to Hanging Chain. I will caution one to be wary of the edges directly off the ledge, broke a large chunk off the first flake above the ledge on 1/29. Route is no harder/easier now. Tread gingerly as falling on the ledge would be no bueno!


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